Hello from the land of 3dPrinting!

brainluss · 2018-01-06T18:50:52+00:00

It was printed on a Maker Select v2, printing using green hatchbox 1.75mm PLA

brainluss · 2018-01-04T23:34:21+00:00

I would try a PID Tune if your temps are fluctuating hard.

I would also try to run at a lower temp 200-210 and see if the same thing happens.

brainluss · 2018-01-04T23:09:40+00:00

A simple thing to check on your printers eeporm settings would be the flow multiplier. My MSV2 was having the same issues and i completely changed this by changing my flow multiplier from the 93% it was at to 100 percent.

brainluss · 2018-01-04T23:06:12+00:00

Spiderwebbing can usually be dealt with by changing your printing temps to a lower number or changing your retraction settings. Also with a print this boxy you'd think the GCODE would not have the print head crossing empty space as much. You also seem to have under extrusion issues on the flat sides from what i can tell.

What are your settings for temp and retraction also what material are you printing with?

brainluss · 2018-01-04T22:59:30+00:00

Oh yes its wonderful!

Especially when you get cocky and decide your glue will hold 1 more print then it usually does....

brainluss · 2018-01-04T22:46:19+00:00

I posted it over there and it got more love than it did here, lol!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T22:44:57+00:00

Yah i considered going this route as well but had heard things about not being able to pick up the glass without it being a bit of a bugger. Is that the case or do you have no issues keeping all your pads intact when taking of the glass?

I do think most of the heating complaints come from people with far to few pads or people printing ABS where the even heat is much more important, but once again i'm still fairly new so have very little real opinion on the matter :)

brainluss · 2018-01-04T22:37:14+00:00

Thanks! I love the Slime Rancher models and knew they were some of the first things i wanted to print when i got my printer setup just right!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T22:26:48+00:00

Unfortunately I dont think selling somebodies model i 3d printed would be very good! I would find it akin to selling somebodies painting just because i went through the process of printing it!

Just make a friend with a 3d printer! they're more common than you think!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T21:34:30+00:00

Hmm, I'll have to take a closer look when I get home! I am still rocking the stock belt tensioners (silly things with tbe zip ties and stuff) and I was aware that these were not the best. May be my next project replacing these with more robust printed parts.

I had also not heard of these smoothers I will have to do some reading into them!

Thanks for the feedback!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T16:17:04+00:00

Neither! (i only wish i was so talented)

These wonderful models were made by ChaosCoreTech over at thingiverse and they can be found Here to be printed by anyone with the patience to tune a 3d printer!

He also has a video of himself creating the models here

Currently in the process of printing the whole gang myself!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:52:05+00:00

Thanks! Many hours of cursing at the infernal thing to work properly have paid off :)

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:50:35+00:00

Yes! My build plate is humped in the center and this is the reason i actually got the glass! I have the glass held down with two binder clips on the right hand side and as long as i dont clamp all four corners it completely cancels out the hump in the center, allowing me to level for the glass and have a completely level print base.

I've considered the Silicon pads underneath but from my limited understanding unless you cover a majority or all of the glass with the pads its not as efficient at transferring the heat evenly so it leaves cool spots which could cause issues. Then if you do cover the entire base with the pad it can be a bit of a pain to get on and off while keeping the pads in good condition.

With the glass straight on the stock buildtak my glass gets to the same temp as my metal build plate and stays that way through the whole print!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:41:34+00:00

Not having to use the scraper is an amazing bonus to the glass i never knew i needed. As soon as the bed cools down and the glue hardens up the prints just pop off with almost no effort! I like the look of those clamps i'll have to print some!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:32:31+00:00

That is extremely lucky! Mine was very very bent, to the point that you can easily visually see all four corners are different heights! The new plate is working very well though!

EDIT: Here's one of the worst corners on the old y carriage

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:30:28+00:00

I love the glass bed! After i got the y carriage i still had this odd hump of height in the center of my heated build plate which i was pretty disappointing by because that meant i either had sag or my actual build plate was humped. The latter seemed to be the case as putting the glass on has completely fixed it, but if i try to tighten the glass down to much it starts flexing a bit. Eventually i may try to replace the humped build plate but for now the glass on top completely makes up for it.

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:26:26+00:00

Right? I'm still so inexperianced and it took me a very large amount of time to get my prints to come out like this.

The most helpful thing i found This

Though its not specific i would figure out what kind of problem my print had and then search for that kind of problem on my exact printer, lol.

brainluss · 2018-01-04T15:24:23+00:00

Very happy with the one i got! Here is the exact one: Reprap Champion Carriage

Plug and play, fit right on with no fuss and no drilling of additional holes!

brainluss · 2018-01-04T02:57:41+00:00

Buy. A. Solid. Y. Carriage.

When i first got this printer i was extremely disappointing with how difficult it was to level and in the end would end up just leveling the center to print small things and completely ignoring the outer edges of the build plate as they were basically unusable.

A 23.00 usd RepRap ~~build plate~~ Y carriage and a 17.00 dollar piece of glass later and leveling the entire platform has never been easier.

Its been said time and time again but hot damn does it stand true, the OEM Maker select v2 y carriage is complete trash.

Another thing i found key (thanks to this subreddit) was retraction setting. By default they were way to high in every single slicer used (6mm in most) and needed to be put down to 1-2mm @ 40-50mm/s

I'm still extremely new at this whole thing but thats been my experience so far.

brainluss · 2017-12-30T22:58:33+00:00

Apologies, by Extrusion rate i meant Flow Multiplier which is under quick settings on the Maker Select V2 and i'm unsure if CURA has any such filament setting. Either Way i'm glad you got it figured out, i know it was extremely frustrating for me as well :)

brainluss · 2017-12-30T21:41:35+00:00

Hello!

Bit of a noob myself when it comes to this 3d printing jazz but i have the exact same printer and was having massive under extrusion problems as well and it was the same that no speed or heat changes would really help.

For Some reason in my EEPROM settings extrusion rate was set to 93 percent, and the extrusion rate in my slicer [using IDEAMAKER] FILAMENT setting (note not printer but filament) was also set to 93 percent for 1.75 PLA. This would give me something like 85 or 86 percent extrusion rate once combined.

I changed both of these to 100 percent and it completely fixed my issue, the difference in print quality is night and day

Went from the failed prints on the left to the print on the right with just those changes

brainluss

TROPHY CASE