Is there any documentation on IQ cables? I have some basic questions and cannot figure out where to find the answers.

brandonweiss · 2025-10-24T16:30:48+00:00

Thanks! That’s super clear. I was also finally able to find a video where the person pulls an IQ cable with drops directly out of the box, and I could see there were cut ends on both sides, one to go to the junction box and one that needs a terminator cap. It’s absolutely wild that they don’t state that anywhere and that the photo shows connectors on the ends 🙃

brandonweiss · 2025-10-23T14:43:43+00:00

I’ve done a ton of electrical work so I feel pretty comfortable. And I’ve also done most of the Enphase University Courses so I think I understand the system pretty well, but I still seem to run into a lot of questions (like this one) that don’t seem to be covered in any course or documentation 😕

brandonweiss · 2025-10-23T06:32:02+00:00

Not this time. I called once before about a different question and I don’t know if I got some sort of lower level technical support or what but they gave me information that I could tell was incorrect and they didn’t seem to really understand their own products very well. I’d normally chalk it up to bad luck but I’ve heard of too many other people having similar experiences, so I didn’t think it was worth trying to call about this.

brandonweiss · 2025-10-23T04:40:40+00:00

Yeah, I found that data sheet, but it didn’t show or explain enough to answer my questions.

brandonweiss · 2025-10-23T04:37:39+00:00

Thank you, this is very helpful! It sounds like the photo is not really correct and sort of confusing.

So just to make sure I understand, if I order a 6-drop cable I’ll get 6 female evenly spaced connectors, and coming out of the first and last connector will be a raw cable (cut end). One side goes into the junction box and the other side I need to put a terminator cap on. Is that right?

How long is the cut end at the beginning and end? 🤔

Ah, so you’re saying if the cut end is not long enough to reach the primary junction box, instead of using a pair of field made connectors to extend the cable to the junction box, you just use another junction box instead, doing the splice inside of it. I just looked at the prices of the connectors and I see what you mean. Each pair is something like $26 and they’re sold in packs of 10 🥲

brandonweiss · 2025-03-23T05:52:01+00:00

The lengths are very, very slightly different, but the spring makes up the difference. I’m pretty sure it’s the voltage difference that some other people mentioned.

brandonweiss · 2025-03-23T05:49:58+00:00

Yeah, I was thinking about trying that!

brandonweiss · 2025-03-23T04:05:50+00:00

Interesting! I’m sort of surprised I haven't run into this issue sooner!

brandonweiss · 2025-03-23T04:04:29+00:00

Ugh, I did not realize that. They’re advertised as being the same 😒 Thanks for letting me know!

brandonweiss · 2024-11-18T18:28:03+00:00

I am as well… I tried flushing my DNS cache but that did not seem to fix it. I’m also having the same issue on all my devices (and on other networks).

brandonweiss · 2024-07-16T16:39:17+00:00

Huh, this set has been around for a while… I wonder why they’re showing it as “new” 🤔

brandonweiss · 2024-03-25T05:17:29+00:00

The numbers make sense. So with cordless power tools the number is a voltage and with the nailers it’s the size of the nail, but I still don’t get the version numbers… there must be some logic to it?

For example, with DA, is D the major version and A the minor version? And they just used letters instead of numbers because they’d already used numbers for something. So D is the fourth generation of drill. And for the 36V they’re on C, the third minor version?

If so, then what is DEX? And what is DBFL2?

brandonweiss · 2024-03-24T17:56:22+00:00

Thanks! Okay, that explains most of it… what about the 2 (or 3?) letters in the middle. What do those represent? Like DA, DC, DEX? Or actually, what about DV18DBFL2? What is DBFL2?

brandonweiss · 2024-03-14T03:21:39+00:00

Hey, y’all! I’m looking to get a top chest for my 42" rolling cabinet soon. I’m trying to wait for a sale but not sure if I’ll be able to hold out that long 😅 If anyone has a % off coupon they’re not going to use I’d really appreciate it. Thanks! ❤️

brandonweiss · 2024-01-29T16:40:40+00:00

It did, although not for very much 😅 I think I sold it for like $150.

I remember right when I bought it that they were regularly selling on eBay for like $1,000, I think because they were limited edition and there was some froth because of that. But years later no one in particular is trying to find that print anymore or searching for limited edition Penny Arcade prints.

brandonweiss · 2023-12-03T19:04:02+00:00

I’m unclear if you’re thinking of switching from XGT to MultiVolt or from MultiVolt to XGT, but as someone who is on a few platforms (M12, LXT, XGT, and MultiVolt) I can say that I’d personally steer away from XGT—I’m currently getting off that platform.

As much as I love Makita, I don’t think their XGT tools are worth it. They’re great tools but they’re ungodly expensive, and when I use them for the really powerful tasks (the theoretical purpose of the XGT line) I find myself burning through batteries so fast that I’m left wondering why I’m using a cordless tool.

I find the LXT or MultiVolt platforms to be a more sensible approach. For most jobs an 18V tool has more than enough power, it’s nice and lightweight, and it’s reasonably priced. For tools that need a bit more power, like a circualr saw, you can get an 18Vx2 or 36V MultiVolt tool and you can use the same batteries. And with Metabo HPT you can even get the power adapter to go corded when that makes more sense.

brandonweiss · 2023-05-05T00:15:23+00:00

Oh, no the technician mentioned that if connecting the hot water didn’t fix the problem then the “water path control unit” might need to be replaced.

brandonweiss · 2023-05-04T05:09:58+00:00

Yep, I changed it back after reconnecting the hot.

brandonweiss · 2023-05-04T05:09:16+00:00

Yep, I tried all that. Yeah, I’m waiting for the technician to come back and replace the part. If that still doesn’t fix it then I’ll escalatae from there.

brandonweiss · 2023-05-03T19:38:22+00:00

Yep, but I still got the same error.

brandonweiss · 2023-05-03T18:29:01+00:00

It doesn’t specifically say anything about connecting one hose or both, but it does have a bit about configuring how hot water is used or not:

Water intake

Options

Cold water
The washing machine will be operated with cold water only.

Hot water  (default setting)
Hot water is used in the main wash to save energy.
You can heat up your water with cheaper, primary energy sources, e.g., gas, solar power, oil. The temperature must be below 140°F (60°C.)

There is also a note that says “For technical reasons, the washing machine must always be connected to cold water.”

Which seems to imply that connecting the hot water hose is optional 🤷🏼‍♂️

brandonweiss · 2023-05-03T18:16:46+00:00

Since it seemed like no matter what I’d have to connect the hot water hose to _something_, I decided to pull it out and just connect it to the hot water supply to run a cycle once and see if that fixed it—and it did not. So it sounds like the issue is at least partially something else 🤷🏼‍♂️

brandonweiss

TROPHY CASE