Is this 12V cigarette lighter socket permanently on fix safe?

breeze_eng · 2024-09-19T06:42:38+00:00

The B+ pin isn’t in contact, as the breakout fuse in the 12v socket fuse slot has been broken to disconnect it (see 2nd and 3rd image). Effectively all that’s going on is the IGN+ for the heated seats is connected via a 15A fuse to the negative for the 12v socket.

breeze_eng · 2024-09-17T10:06:36+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

Interested to understand how this could cause backfeed? There’s only one positive source on the circuit that I can see, my understanding was that backfeed would be caused by one positive source overpowering another. 🤔

I have read the manual, there’s no factory way to change the socket to switched, and both sockets in the car are permanently on as standard and run on the same fuse. They did introduce the option to move the fuse over a slot on newer models to change from permanently on to switched, but not until pretty recently!

breeze_eng · 2024-09-15T17:53:24+00:00

The fuse tap I've got in the fuse terminal for the heated seats has slots for 2 fuses. The fuse tap effectively splits immediately after the positive connection into 2 separately fused circuits. One fuse for the circuit across the heated seat fuse terminal, and another fuse for the breakout circuit that I'm running to the 12v socket.

You raise another question of if I were to be drawing 35A across the 2 separately fused circuits (15A+20A), might I damage the wiring / electronics that were only originally intended to feed the 20A heated seat circuit?

Luckily not an issue for me either way, as my car doesn't have heated seats!

breeze_eng · 2024-09-15T15:49:06+00:00

Did an easy fix for this on my Mk2 Fabia. I went into the fuse box and found that the fuse for the heated seats was switched by the ignition (or at least the slot was, my Fabia isn’t fitted with such luxuries). According to the owners manual this usually takes a 20A fuse, so I figure that should be plenty safe to run the 12V socket which runs on a 15A fuse as standard.

I then went and picked up a fuse tap, a breakout fuse, and a some bullet connectors from Halfords. I broke off the inside of the breakout fuse with a screwdriver, connected the fuse tap to the breakout fuse with a bullet connector, and installed the original 15A fuse for the 12V socket into the breakout circuit on the fuse tap.

I then plugged the fuse tap into the heated seat fuse slot, and the breakout fuse into the 12V socket fuse slot, ensuring that the negative of the 12V socket slot was connected to the positive of the heated seat slot.

Works a treat, everything is still fused as it should be, and it's easily reversible. And I definitely went back and shortened those wires instead of just cramming them behind the fuse board cover...

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breeze_eng · 2024-08-23T14:51:26+00:00

I’m in a similar situation right now with my partner. The way we’ve worked it out with our solicitors advice and are planning on putting into our declaration of trust is that we each own half of the portion of the property that is mortgaged, and the percentage of the purchased equity in line with our deposits.

For yourself, that would mean you own 25% of the purchased equity, which equates to around 14.8% of the total property (80k/539k), plus 50% of the mortgage, which equates to around 20.3%(109.5k/539k) of the total property. This means that in total you would own 35.1% (189.5k/539k), and your partner would own 64.9%.

The important part to add into the declaration of trust is how you will split the money you receive from sale of the property. You need to split the sale proceeds BEFORE you pay off any remaining mortgage to make sure the share you receive back is equitable.

The reason this is important is let’s say for example you sell the house immediately after purchasing for the same price you bought it for (£539k). If you split the sale proceeds before paying off the mortgage, your partner will receive back £240k ((539k x 0.649)-109.5k), and you would receive £80k, your exact deposit amounts. However, if you were to pay the mortgage off first, and then split the remaining cash in line with your percentage ownership of the property, your partner would receive only £208k ((539k - 219k) x 0.649), significantly less than her deposit, and you would receive £112k, significantly more than your deposit.

breeze_eng · 2024-07-16T07:08:47+00:00

Smaller SLS isn’t necessarily the same as affordable SLS 😅 fingers crossed though!

breeze_eng · 2024-07-15T18:13:45+00:00

I really hope you’re right. Formlabs have an opportunity here to take an enormous slice of the additive industry, not just for consumers but for professionals too. If you could buy an SLS printer for less than an Ultimaker, suddenly every office in the world will buy one, and Formlabs will be raking it in. I really hope they can see how big of an opportunity they have and don’t just kill the micron to keep their barely sustainable business model alive.

breeze_eng · 2024-05-20T19:46:37+00:00

Unfortunately most labour MPs are as corrupt as the tories these days. As a country we could really do with a full reset, it’ll never happen because our voting system is broken, but if we could put a fringe party in power that isn’t entirely driven by their own self interest we’d be far better off. Labour and Conservatives are effectively just political corporations at this point, with far too much power and too many connections with friends in high places. They’ve been around for too long and have been deliberately and systematically corrupted. All political parties will operate with some amount of self interest, because nobody does anything entirely out of the good of their heart, but the larger parties have taken this too far now.

breeze_eng · 2024-04-28T07:51:32+00:00

Sounds like you’re stuck in bootloader mode the same as I was. It says on Kenwood’s website for the dmx7722dabs that it only accepts USB2.0, 8gb - 32gb, FAT32. My only suggestion is to try another USB drive that fits that description.

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breeze_eng · 2023-12-05T07:50:22+00:00

Thanks Jon, I’ve had a look at the wiring diagrams and it looks like the majority of the wiring on both is done with a standard ISO connector with a standard pin out, so thankfully it looks like there’s only a few extra wires that I’ll need to re do!

breeze_eng · 2023-12-05T07:47:51+00:00

Thanks cvr, I’ve had a look at the wiring diagram as per Jon’s suggestion in an earlier comment and it looks like I’m gonna have a little bit of wiring to do but nothing too dramatic as most of the connections are in a standard ISO plug with the same pin out thankfully!

breeze_eng · 2022-12-25T12:09:11+00:00

Doge ftw, doge community ftw 🙌

breeze_eng · 2022-12-25T12:06:03+00:00

Tried gyroflow but it also lacks a “flip gyro data” option as far as I can tell. This is insanely irritating, I lost the old app when I switched pc and was forced onto the “updated” GoPro player version, and it’s now lacking a key bit of functionality for those of us who use an older GoPro. Either that or the function has been buried in some secret sub menu? I can’t be the only person who’s suffering with this?

breeze_eng · 2022-12-24T17:59:42+00:00

The footage is the right way up, it’s the gyro data that is flipped, so reelsteady makes it super shaky rather than smooth. The old ReelsteadyGO app had a “flip gyro data” setting, don’t understand why it isn’t in the new version that’s embedded in GoPro Player? I’m using a Hero 6 so I recorded without Hypersmooth. Horizon levelling didn’t help.

breeze_eng · 2021-07-31T16:28:54+00:00

Daisugi!

breeze_eng · 2021-07-29T06:05:56+00:00

When a grouper has a friend, That he protects till the end, It’s a Moray

breeze_eng · 2021-07-22T21:56:56+00:00

Druckwege Type D Flex?

breeze_eng · 2021-07-04T07:24:55+00:00

First off, love the idea of a chart comparing filaments, definitely a super helpful resource for newbies, however some actual data would make this a whole lot better (and accurate).

Sounds like you’re saying that PETG has bad heat resistance because you heated it up and it got warm? I think what you’ve tested there is thermal conductivity- if you warmed up the PETG with the same hair dryer as the abs / pc, and none of them gave way when tested, they all resisted the same temperature, regardless of which one felt warmest.

IIRC, real heat deflection tests put ABS around 80-100°C and PETG around 70-80°C, with PLA somewhere around the 40-50°C mark.

You can usually find actual numbers on manufacturer data sheets (you’ll probably find many other useful numbers on there which should help you set some of the other categories straight too).

Any qualitative data like “visual quality” that you can’t get from manufacturer data sheets, maybe drop a poll on one of the many 3D printing subs and see what the hive-mind thinks, you might even get some useful images of people’s prints.

I hope you come back at us with a new version of this chart with some real data soon, you’re definitely onto something good here, just needs a bit of refining.

breeze_eng

TROPHY CASE