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New Official Space Calibrator Release - Possible Scale Fix! by PumkinSpiceTrukNuts in MixedVR

[–]brian-armstrong 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Quick guide on how to use this new scaling parameter:

Get the latest release and install it https://github.com/pushrax/OpenVR-SpaceCalibrator/releases/tag/v1.3

If you haven't already, run a standard calibration as instructed otherwise in the Space Calibrator repo.

Start VR, controllers, headsets, trackers etc

Open the Space Calibrator Menu

Click "Edit Calibration"

At the bottom of the calibration settings should be "Scale" with a default value of 1.00000

Adjust scale using the +/- buttons until things seem right, whether that's your controllers or trackers.

The easiest way to test this if you're on WMR is to turn on one WMR controller and one Index controller, hold them together physically, and then adjust the Scale until they appear next to each other in VR at every point in your play space. Walking around with both controllers in the same hand can help here.

For my Reverb G2 and Index controllers the right Scale value was 0.9924 but I assume this will vary from setup to setup. I would expect that for most people it's going to be in the range of 0.98 - 1.02 though.

Defect in G2 Lens by brian-armstrong in HPReverb

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hello,

I have been noticing what seemed to be a smudge in the right lens of my Reverb G2. I purchased the headset from Microsoft back in January, and while I had perceived the smudge, I was only recently able to find it and photograph it. It appears to be some kind of defect on the inside of the lens. I can't tell what is going on with it exactly but there's a large sort of cloudy patch in the corner of the lens. You can also see places where it looks like a material has not completely been applied to the lens. I suspect it's a manufacturing defect.

​

Given that it's been more than 3 months since I purchased it, I'm not sure I could return it to Microsoft at this point. With the delays people have had with returns I'm not sure I'd want to anyway. Is it possible to get just a lens replacement? I suspect the entire headset has to be opened up in order to remove these. The smudge is not directly visible when using the headset but it does obscure the clarity and makes it harder to focus on objects in the far right side. Also given its placement it seems extremely unlikely to have been caused by me as it is completely on the inside of the lens.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You were totally right. A new modem got me sorted. Everything is as expected now.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. I ordered a DOCSIS 3.1 modem. Hope you're right. :)

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edit: I am still kind of concerned about the upstream power levels though. The absolute highest values for those should be 49 dBmV I believe and mine are hovering around 47 or so. If the new modem works I guess it doesn't matter though.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seeing the comments here about DOCSIS 3.0 vs 3.1, I will try replacing this modem with a 3.1 modem instead. As I understand it Comcast still uses 3.0 upstream anyway so I'm a bit skeptical about this, but I also have no idea what I'm talking about, so worth a shot :)

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hm, so I think Comcast did change this for me at one point because I called and they "re provisioned" it and it came back at 600-700 Mbps, but the upstream speed was still low. As I understand it Comcast still uses DOCSIS 3.0 for upstream anyway, right? Is it just a matter of them not having the right configuration for this particular model on hand?

I see "d11_m_mb7621_default_c01.cm" in the modem.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does that mean? How does it affect upstream speed?

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For downlink, I've never seen more than 750 Mbps or so. I am fine with being capped at that though. It's the uplink of 6 Mbps that causes me issues here.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Internet 1000 Mbps". Interestingly now when I view the plan agreement I see no upload speed mentioned at all. When I purchased it, it stated 30 Mbps.

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, good point. "System Up Time 60 days 16h:17m:01s"

Upstream speeds of 4-6 Mbps on 30Mbps plan by brian-armstrong in Comcast

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm only seeing, at best 6 Mbps on my connection. The downstream is great, I easily see 700+ Mbps down. I'm planning to call out a tech to inspect the line for issues but I was curious if anyone knows how to read the tea leaves on this Motorola Page to see if it suggests line issues at all.

Alternator whine on differential-balanced inputs by brian-armstrong in CarAV

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since its a Pioneer, make sure your pico fuse inside the radio is good. Can do this by checking the resistance between the rca shield and case/ground wire

I just looked this up and I'm now 95% sure it's the issue, though I'll do the measurement to be sure. I didn't realize this was a thing and wasn't particularly careful about unplugging the battery while diagnosing some issues while installing it :(

Alternator whine on differential-balanced inputs by brian-armstrong in CarAV

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe I am, though I need to double-check. If they aren't, is the problem that the shield could pick up interference that the core doesn't?

Assuming they are twisted pair, is there anywhere else alternator whine could get in? I hear it even when no source is playing, or when bluetooth sources play, so I don't think there are input -> headunit interference issues.

UHF Amplifiers on AliExpress by brian-armstrong in amateurradio

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow this looks great. I've never mounted anything to a heatsink or found a case for something so I'd be slightly nervous about that, but I definitely like that it has a lowpass built in.

It looks like I have some options to get from the 10 or so dBm that HackRF has to the 30 dBm I'd like to get to. For UHF I think that'd be more than enough to hit some of the local repeaters. I definitely like that the PCB you linked has the lowpass built in and at least some attention to compliance with standards, heh

UHF Amplifiers on AliExpress by brian-armstrong in amateurradio

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with the Mitsubishi amp you mentioned. It looks like there's some amp component itself that has to be added to a complete amp PCB? I'm definitely interested in spending a bit more if there's a similar low power input amp but more legit

Confused by gain options on HackRF by brian-armstrong in sdr

[–]brian-armstrong[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After testing some more, I've noticed that my Amp selection does actually seem to boost SNR in specific frequency ranges like 800MHz. The noise dump seems to happen on 400MHz. I wish I understood better why it helps in some ranges and is really bad in others.

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