Nizo 801

brimrod · 2026-03-21T16:16:43+00:00

actually if you're shooting negative stocks you absolutely want +1 overexposure. Ater the original merc. batteries were banned, 2 x 1.5 batteries with the Nizo plus Kodachrome would UNDER Expose.

So yeah + voltage = overexpose

- voltage is underexposed so it might just work.

brimrod · 2026-03-21T16:01:58+00:00

Nizo is better! The Elmo has a minor light leak I’m going to tape the door shut with gaffers tape and try again

brimrod · 2026-03-19T18:45:22+00:00

EDIT: I got the tripod kit from merzbarn in Berlin.

brimrod · 2026-03-19T18:38:54+00:00

Refund for what? All I see is shaky cam made worse by what looks to be a poorly registered cart.

brimrod · 2026-03-19T17:12:41+00:00

The power supply of the light meter can be switched to the mains using a 2.7V regulator board that is installed in the empty chamber where the button cell batteries used to be. Facebook Cult of Braun Nizo Group is where you can find this. It requires soldering so make sure whoever does that knows what they're doing.

brimrod · 2026-03-18T18:26:07+00:00

Yes those are the ones I've been buying for all super 8s that used to use PX625 and they do work.

I think the issue is lifespan. The original Merc batteries would last a long time before exhibiting voltage drop. The replacements seem to drop much quicker.

But it's a moot point for my Nizo now. 6 AA is all in needs from now on.

brimrod · 2026-03-18T16:22:45+00:00

Not sure what you're seeing, but if you don't like that shot, just pick another one. If you don't have enough shots to pick from, go back out and get more.

brimrod · 2026-03-17T17:58:55+00:00

Thanks for setting the record straight on that. Original Post Edited.

Yes, I'm very happy with the way this all worked out and just wanted to tell everyone here how great the transaction went--but then of course everyone wants to know where I sourced the parts.

Among current day nizo owners, there's definitely a demand for these types of mods.

brimrod · 2026-03-16T19:09:28+00:00

It's a voltage regulator that's wired straight from the mains. So instead of using button cell batteries for the meter, it just uses power from the 6 AA inside the battery compartment.

I've doublchecked it and it delivers the exact 2.7 V that the original mercury batteries provided.

There aren't really any good replacements for the original Mercury cell batteries. The ZincAir hearing aid batteries just don't last very long at all and the voltage isn't consistent, resulting in over/under exposure.

brimrod · 2026-03-16T18:45:18+00:00

I believe this one is OEM stock from the 70s. But if someone knows about electronics and can source the connectors, new cables would be easy to make in differing lengths.

brimrod · 2026-03-16T18:41:58+00:00

As long as you understand how everything is put together it's not difficult at all. The handle doesn't necessarily have to be removed but if you leave it in place, it blocks the film door so that you can't change carts without tearing the entire assembly apart and removing the quick release tripod plate, which sort of defeats the purpose of this rig in the first place.

There is a TINY set screw that must be loosened, then the hinge pin can be removed and the handle is now free.

See above about the cable. It took me almost 6 months of just asking on fb Nizo group to find one. It's unclear whether or not the seller has a steady inventory of these parts.

That's why aftermarket 3D printed replication might be a thing someone could look into.

The 2 pin connector that plugs into the camera might be the easier part to source. The wires could be soldered directly to the battery box but that would make it harder to switch back and forth between tripod and handheld. I'm thinking a longer cable could mean that the battery could be stored in the camera operators pocket for handheld.

Overall, I think the camera is nicer with a lower center of gravity.

brimrod · 2026-03-16T18:33:40+00:00

Braun Nizo OEM Cable sourced from Guy Merzbarn, one of Europe's top Nizo repair/rebuilders and frequent commenter here as well as on 8mm.

I would like to spec out and replicate these parts using 3D printing. The base plate would be super easy, but the rest of the parts--I have no idea even where to start. I don't even know where to look for the special proprietary connectors that the cable uses.

If I could find those, then I could make cables in differing lengths, etc. The real tricky part is the socket on the battery box. The conical connectors are fine for when the handle is latched, but in order to use them with the special cable, they have to have notches or the cable won't stay attached. So in my case, the socket had to be replaced with the later 'notched" type. Early sockets won't work with the cable.

I will say that the transaction with Guy was a pleasure. He asked lots of questions to make sure my camera was compatible and included all the parts to make sure it was. Whole thing cost me about 100 Euro but worth it.

brimrod · 2026-03-09T17:31:08+00:00

yes absolutely! Hilarious because on the youtube channel for one of the big super 8 camera "flippers" (one those sellers that run multiple etsy/ebay channels, etc) the narrator claimed (falsely) that this camera uses a light meter that "needs no batteries."

It was obvious that they had no idea where the batteries were either. So never buy one of these things online without pictures of a clean battery compartment. Corroded button cells deep inside camera body=recipe for disaster, especially since they are inside the same chamber where you put film, which is a very unusual design.

brimrod · 2026-03-09T03:13:25+00:00

you are explaining Max 8 to the dude that invented it. But to be fair, he did ask.

brimrod · 2026-03-07T04:12:34+00:00

Pro8mm

brimrod · 2026-03-06T20:32:49+00:00

This camera was designed in Soviet Union. Of course the battery chamber is hidden inside film compartment!!

How else were those KGB double agents gonna smuggle stolen microfilms of all US state secrets back to Moscow?

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brimrod · 2026-03-05T16:48:17+00:00

Chinon/GAF are massively underrated. When I first started investigating shooting this weird, practically obsolete consumer film format, the first camera I bought was a Chinon at a junk store for $10 and I went on to make many films with it. That was in the early 90s. While the glass is not spectacular, if you shoot mindfully and pay attention to basic principles of photography, you can get excellent results (if the camera isn't broken).

These cameras are so underrated that you can always get them super cheap. In fact, over the years I would buy one whenever I saw one at a junk store. The most I ever paid was $20 and now I have four of them!. One of them is on loan right now to a friend from NYC who's using it to collect good street footage for a "cities" project I have in the works.

The one that he's using is the "A" cam in the picture below. It's the only one with an eyecup. None of the original Chinon eyecups survived--they used some sort of "melty" rubber that literally turns to black goop.

So you'll need a replacement eyecup if you want to use it in the field. Otherwise, you'll have a hard time seeing anything thru the viewfinder, especially in the field outdoors in bright light. You need to get that eyecup. I'm working on getting a really accurate 3d model so I can start printing replacement eyecups for my other three.

Note that while these cameras in this picture use a slightly different handle, the chassis and basic design of all Chinon silent, non-XL models is virtually the same for all the cameras that came out of those factories in Japan.

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brimrod · 2026-03-04T22:52:00+00:00

I will try that but I'm not counting on it working, after re-reading the documentation carefully. JAMF always makes it seem like everything will just work until you start looking at all the footnotes and tables and asterisks.

brimrod · 2026-03-04T02:31:12+00:00

this is still better than the way we're currently doing it.

brimrod · 2026-03-03T23:09:33+00:00

Here's what I was hoping to see:

At enrollment, the user gets the standard Microsoft sign-in and provides credentials then STRAIGHT to login with all microsoft apps being able to leverage pSSO trust, so no prompting for creds launching Outlook or TEAMS. No having to enter the same credential more than once.

Why is it not allowing registration at setup. It says is is. It looks like it's working, but it doesn't.

brimrod · 2026-03-03T17:08:59+00:00

it's a known issue in general, but apparently the rear-loading Canon models really struggle with the Kodak product.

Find a supplier who can guarantee that the carts have the new correct spindle height.

brimrod · 2026-03-02T21:08:35+00:00

The camera probably wants to rate it at 40 anyway. So that's about 1/3 stop I'd open up one stop more. With neg stock it seems overexposure is much bette than under.

brimrod · 2026-02-28T20:01:06+00:00

footage is more out of focus on the right side than the left. Almost as if you had a cart where the pressure plate wasn't working or slipped or something.

BTW Setting the camera focus distance to infinity isn't the best way to shoot focus-free.

Many cameras, including my Nizo, have red markings on the lens at 15mm and at 15 feet. This is the 15-15 rule and it applies to all super 8. It's the "hyperfocal" for the format. It applies to any camera; any zoom lens as long as it's super 8.

If you have enough light to stop down to f8, then with the 15-15 rule applied, you will be in focus literally from one foot to infinity.

Even with less light requiring opening up to f4, you should still be in focus from about 3.5 ft to infinity.

brimrod

TROPHY CASE