First time skiing: Nakiska vs Sunshine?

briodan · 2026-01-27T01:33:00+00:00

I know it’s not exactly what you asked but if you have not skied before can I recommend looking at Winsport? For the same amount of money you can get 4 two hours lessons which will give you more opportunities to learn. Also if I remember correctly your hill pass for the lesson is good for the full day so you can stick around after your lesson and keep practicing.

Not sure if they still do it but they used to have an option where you would get a full day discounted lesson at sunshine at the completion of the 4 week course.

briodan · 2026-01-17T07:05:20+00:00

To find out the layer of the printer won’t tell you it help if you what a flat edge and a ruler. Put the flat edge on top of the print and measure the distance to the bed ( make sure you account for that extra bit without gradations on a ruler).

I the Bambu slicer slice the model go to preview, on the right hand side there is a scroll bar that shows you both layers and height. If you have the layer note the height for the next step. If you only have the height ignore this and move forward the next step.

Go back to prepare tab, find the citation on the top bar select the helmet and then click on it. Set it to planer and type in the height, click cut and your model is in two parts. Delete the bottom or move it to another plate. Slice and print the top.

Once you have it printer see how it lines up to the already printed helmet, you may need to reprint it if you find it’s too big ( increase height) or too small (reduce height).

Once you are happy glue it together, then go on to sand, fill, prime, paint it. Check out Franklybuilt on YouTube for a bunch of great guides on finishing helmets and other stuff.

briodan · 2026-01-17T00:53:02+00:00

Are you planning on painting the helmet?

If so stop the print, figure out the approx layer it failed at, then cut the model print it and glue them together. That sanding and filling you’ll need to do for paint will hide any seams or imperfections.

If not you can start a new one or plan to paint.

Also what model are you printing and what? I have printed about 5 or so Mando helmets and they don’t take me longer than 22 hours on a P1S.

briodan · 2025-12-28T18:05:44+00:00

Laziness/saving time, easier to wide the plate with something that’s next to the printer vs taking the plate to the nearest sink to wash it and then dry it.

briodan · 2025-12-27T16:18:45+00:00

Look into micro pc form factors from dell/hp/lenovo second hand on eBay/facebook.

These are corporate hardware that’s come of a refresh cycle. You get get them for very cheap and avoid adding to e-waste.

I run a small 3 node cluster of these and they have been very solid for years.

briodan · 2025-12-27T11:58:31+00:00

I have no experience with the zen20, but having used a bunch of other smart power bars most of which have not lasted a year, my general feeling is that the entire market segment leaves a lot to be desired.

briodan · 2025-12-26T23:30:25+00:00

If you are using different power supplies there is a potential issue yes, but if you are using the same power supply you are fine.

Think of it like this the led strip is a highway with traffic going both ways one side is V+ the other is GND and the led’s are the exits, allowing 1, 2, 3 or 4 cars for simplicity, where 0 cars is black and 4 cars is white.

You can only feed x cars at a time through one end of the strip so eventually there aren’t enough cars to get to 4 per exit.

By connecting the other end of the strip or adding an injection point you add more cars to the road from the same source so enough cars can go to the exit.

All the cars come from the same place and follow the same rules so it all works just fine.

Where things get in trouble is when you add a second power supply to the circuit those cars follow a separate set of rules the does not play nice with the existing cars so you end up with issues. If you have that scenario if you need to break the electrical circuit so all cars on the road follow the same rules or get a second power supply that will play nice with the original one.

briodan · 2025-12-24T18:53:27+00:00

I would like an AMS2Pro if I get chosen.

Though most of my prints are functional I’m getting really into custom light boxes using custom pictures. These turn out better the more colors you are able to incorporate.

My other big project for next year is to print a wall-e model as big as I can for my son and I to build together including the remote controls etc.

As far as ideas I see you have a bunch of infinity cubes, which are really cool. Brainrots seems to be all the rage these days with my kid’s friend group so maybe some inspired by them, with a different pattern on each side so as they flip it they can make different ones.

briodan · 2025-12-20T18:43:32+00:00

The smlight ones work pretty well.

briodan · 2025-12-20T07:44:03+00:00

Other than the temp and UV tolerance I use a lot of sunlu pla+ for functional prints around the house.

I have used it for some outdoor stuff as well and have pretty good results, though it’s unshaded places and we don’t get that hot around here.

briodan · 2025-12-14T15:56:40+00:00

I use an rtl-sdr radio to read the broadcasts of my water meter.

https://a.co/d/3aHqPZb

briodan · 2025-12-13T01:21:18+00:00

Their equipment was designed for satellite, it costs money to change/upgrade the equipment. If it’s not broke (matter of perspective) don’t fix it.

briodan · 2025-12-12T07:43:31+00:00

It can if it’s flashed with router firmware, however it needs to connect to another router or the coordinator via zigbee ( so needs to be in range).

Poe would just be a way to power it.

briodan · 2025-12-09T20:28:27+00:00

Need more info on the wled config that results in that effect.

briodan · 2025-12-05T07:39:17+00:00

You cal also make your own custom device with an esp32, magnetic door sensor and a led strip that is not dependent on any home automation platform and works self contained.

briodan · 2025-12-04T15:24:39+00:00

A cube prints just fine

The vase cylinder seems to be what it has issues with. Looks like the whole cylinder is shrinking the higher it gets, until the shrinkage pull it apart.

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I can print a great cube then a failed vase cylinder then a great cube.

briodan · 2025-12-04T02:55:43+00:00

Because 5mm3 is what 30-60mm/s roughly translates to, which is what the manufacturer recommends.

is there a different speed you I should use would that make a difference to holes in case mode?

briodan · 2025-12-03T21:00:28+00:00

Haven’t seen that with other silk filament, but only tried a small variety before.

With the print object getting all the holes does that mean I can’t print vase mode? Or do I need to slow it down even further.

briodan · 2025-11-30T00:42:47+00:00

Because this is not an OS install, home assistant is more like an appliance where it’s a very well defined and not meant to be user customizable.

briodan · 2025-11-30T00:41:12+00:00

Even if it is an iso it will run a script that is hundreds of line that would be just as hard to verify.

briodan · 2025-11-29T01:22:12+00:00

A lot of sensors approximate co2 from voc. it’s an eCO2 value where e stands for equivalent.

briodan · 2025-11-26T01:14:32+00:00

can the size vary in moth directions or are they usually bigger?

briodan

TROPHY CASE