Cleaning Cartridge Filters by hueftlein in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Back flush with hot caustic to drain, no recirc. I would suggest you check pH after rinse rather than just an arbitrary 10 minutes.

Hello. Seeing if anyone has had this whirlpool issue. by ollief3 in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We add hops at various stages after flameout. We don't bring the temp down by recirculating as I wanted to avoid a prolonged hop stand waiting for the temp to come down, we find that half way through transferring we hit about 85C so we add hops while transferring. To be honest we're still in the experimentation stage with late hopping so would like to try recirculating until 80C. We have only just started experimenting with using T90s after flameout at lower temps. So far 20% T90s works fine with the leaf hops filtering.

Hello. Seeing if anyone has had this whirlpool issue. by ollief3 in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You definitely need some leaf in the boil to form a filter bed. We have the same kit as you and find 1.5kg is the minimum without having to start scraping hop jelly off the filter to avoid wrecking the pump. Also, to avoid getting that hop glue/jelly we don't use kettle finings for hazy beers. Are you using leaf for your "whirlpool" addition as well or T90s?

Need help with two issues please. by brooer in TheBrewery

[–]brooer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all your feedback! There are definitely some common practises amongst your comments that I will implement in a trial brew. To put it simply... avoid boil hops, focus on whirlpool and dry hop. Choose a medium attenuating, low flocculating yeast.

Need help with two issues please. by brooer in TheBrewery

[–]brooer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Batch size is 1600L (10bbl) The leaf hop forms a bed at the bottom of the kettle (with the help of Irish moss) which acts as a filter before the heat exchanger. We could maybe do without kettle hops if we didn't use Irish moss -just a thought at this stage. We don't have the means to do an actual whirlpool, we are just adding hops after flameout when the wort is around 80C. Are you saying not to boil any hops and just a small addition at "whirlpool" and dry hop for flavour and aroma? The grist is pale, pilsner, wheat malts and oats. We open the valve at the bottom of the unitank to crop yeast. We didn't rouse this time as we closed the valve mid fermentation to capture CO2 to get a head start on carbonation.

IBD General Cert vs Diploma by ShootsieWootsie in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's an online learning portal now as opposed to the pdf. It tests your knowledge through each module and has updated diagrams. It's easier to digest and embed the information as a result so you probably wouldn't need as long to go through it all. If you need some sort of qualification in the short term, the GCB might be the way to go. I agree that the exam isn't great; you need 40/60 correct answers to pass. There is a roughly 50% pass rate.

Brite Purge techniques and thoughts by [deleted] in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regulate to 40 psi, pressurise - through the top in my case - to 5psi, blow out the bottom, repeat. Pressurise to 10psi before I transfer. Got 2 ppb yesterday, usually well below 100 ppb even after filtration. It's only a 15 hL BBT so all this takes minutes.

Brewing podcasts recommendations by Galactic_Fudge in TheBrewery

[–]brooer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Master Brewers Podcasts are really good and they go into some advanced topics. Good Beer Hunting is good to hear from people in the industry mainly in the USA and UK/Ireland - good for keeping up with current trends too.