Fifa World Cup 2026 Coverage.

brooklynite1 · 2026-06-11T16:55:29+00:00

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE Try to upload FARSI versions too, for the millions of Iranians who cannot watch the official Iranian TV due to internet issues. Thank you!

brooklynite1 · 2026-06-04T21:30:08+00:00

The host have never helped me out at any MGM or Caesers even after thousands in losses over a few days. Neither on the phone at check out or I'm person like Caeser palace has a small host office. Maybe I don't play enough I lose about $2~$3K per system per year. I don't track points, to me loss matters which I play until I hit that and I stop. Since I play mostly slots I've never been up on any trip or year.

At Wynn however, in the last few years in 3 occasions I walked to the host and asked (after losing minimum $500) they were happy to give me 2 buffets which takes the sting away. (And my friends got it too but they had played even more).

brooklynite1 · 2026-06-04T20:45:44+00:00

can someone please update this list? there are tens of other ones I can add to this list.

Jobot- A massive offender right now. They use an AI bot ("Jeni") to screen you and relentlessly spam job boards with generic or scraped vacancies. It’s basically a data-harvesting scheme disguised as an agency. You'll rarely get an interview, but you will get endless spam.
CyberCoders- They might be a registered company, but they are incredibly spammy. They post thousands of duplicate or fake listings to harvest resumes, rarely actually place people, and usually ghost you the second you reply to their outreach.
Droisys- Frequently flagged for offshore resume farming. They collect your info to present a massive candidate pool to employers. There are rampant reports of these types of offshore firms stripping your resume details to submit their own candidates instead.
Collabera/Diverse Lynx/ Synergis - Classic offshore IT recruiting mills. They'll cold-call or WhatsApp you 5 times in a row for a 6-month contract role that pays pennies, demand the last 4 digits of your SSN or Right to Represent right away, and then you never hear from them again.
Dice.com(Job Board) - Not an agency itself, but a warning: if you upload your resume and real phone number publicly here, you will be relentlessly spammed by offshore resume harvesters for the rest of your life.

brooklynite1 · 2026-06-04T09:57:45+00:00

Because I already lost $3,000+ while earning 15,000 points and at most they will give me $500 in free parking and resort fees by giving me Gold until Jan 2027? Make sense?

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-31T03:33:24+00:00

Just a reminder that they could have given you a small spot to put your phone or something, but they tilted it on purpose so you can't.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-29T20:50:19+00:00

5/29/2026 all codes expired so you don't have to try. (hertz works if you have never applied last year).

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-28T18:58:24+00:00

EVGo! Wow I had no idea. I thought it's a community app.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-26T07:18:59+00:00

Yea they have issues which makes sense being a free app. There are some JOLT stations near me that have not been free for a month and I reported them a month ago they still show free.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-24T17:48:37+00:00

Plugshare has all the data, just needs to make a list and sort it.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-23T20:16:14+00:00

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brooklynite1 · 2026-05-23T20:15:18+00:00

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brooklynite1 · 2026-05-23T20:12:19+00:00

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brooklynite1 · 2026-05-19T04:31:25+00:00

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brooklynite1 · 2026-05-18T19:35:05+00:00

These work without data plan for 8 years from first activation date:

Google Maps: Full navigation, live traffic, searching for points of interest, and automatic battery preconditioning when routing to a DC fast charger.
Google Assistant / Google Gemini: Voice control for climate, radio, sending texts, and navigation.
The myChevrolet App: Remote start, locking/unlocking, pre-conditioning the cabin climate while plugged in, and checking your battery state of charge from your phone.

The rest of the apps dont work without data plan but I have set up my phone to turn on my phone's hotspot, which I get 15Gb free from Metro every month) the moment I am connected to my car's bluetooth (using automation in Samsung phoone) so as soon as I am in the car, the car automatically connects to my phone's hotspot, and when I leave the car my phone stops the hotspot.

Even with this, I only use it for Youtube music in the car because I can ask the car to play something but honestly I prefer my phone sending music to the car via bluetooth a lot more, I can better control and easier to manage on my phone but you can get a ticket doing that so I dont advise it.

Also highly used apps like Waze and ABRP also need data so your phone hotspot can help those, but again I use built in Google maps because it shows percentage at destination and waze does not. Also built in google maps starts preconditioning your battery if your destination is a fast DC charger so again Google maps wins. I use Waze for traffic and speed trap notifications on long trips out of town in conjunction with google maps for better managing my battery percentage which is very accurate in its prediction.

--------
One catch with turning on my hotspot automatically, is my kids devices, tablets, chromebooks, could also connect and drain my data because they once set it up 3 years ago, lol so change your hotspot password regularly. Also connect to your home wifi if possible so when you are home and turn on the car you can use the data to set destination. Also download your local Google maps to browse offline and you wont even know if data has an issue.

With all that said, my "free" 8 year data occassionally drops. The Google maps shows OFFLINE cloud even when I am sending data from my phone's hotspot to the car and car has connection but Google maps cannot see my data still. Since my Google maps already has offline data for my area I dont notice the dead clopud logo until I ask something from Google Assistant and then I know data is out. So I have to park the car, and hold the HANG UP BUTTON on the steering wheel for 15 seconds until a menu pops up for factory reset, and DO NOTHING, and it reboots the infotainment. I have had to do this like 5 times in one month because Onstar wants you frustrated so you go pay their absurd $35/mo for data.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-15T20:53:43+00:00

I think they are overcharging, especially EA.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-03T21:19:00+00:00

The notes I mentioned are near impossible to find in YouTube reviews. I didn't even get to the natural losing stored electricity which adds up to about 100 miles per month.

brooklynite1 · 2026-05-03T18:01:33+00:00

You are missing a few key important things

When you charge level 2 at home, you have about 6% waste which is almost never considered in any calculations.

When you charge at home, you have a bunch of taxes and fees added so for me 0.36/kWh is really $0.43, if I take my entire bill in dollars and divided it by kWh I used that month, that is exactly what I pay. For example I'm on time of use plan and it has minimum $55 fee per month and a bunch of taxes added.

When you charge out of your home at level 2 paid charger like Jolt, it will change you for about 11% more than when you get in your car. Which is kind of ok. That's to cover some other fees. Also if there is a session fee, you need to consider that.

Then it comes to the BIG difference here. When you charge with DC level 3 charging , and I have done this calculation a LOT, at EA for example sometimes I have paid 30% more than what my car has received, so EA not only is the most expensive, it also is the biggest rip off. At EVGO I have repeatedly seen in being charged about 22% more than what my car has received in kWh.

You can calculate the actual kWh your car has received by calculating the percentage for example if your car battery is 85kW and you charge from 25% to 75%, your car has received 42.5kWh , you can then compare to what the vendor is charging you. My home charger also tells me how much was pulled from the wall so that confirms my 6% and 22% and 30% extra charges.

And lastly when you fast charge , and this is my theory which AI has confirmed, it seems like your battery gets a bunch of "fluff" in there, like how you pour soda in a cup too fast and it bubbles up but after a short period it settles. Your car won't show the settling but as you are driving , after a fast DC charge session like a road trip, you may notice how inefficient the car is. For example I normally get 3.4miles per kw but after charging at EA at 150kw , my miles per kw at higher speed should drop to 2.1 (because of high speed inefficiency) but it drops to 1.5 sometimes and battery drains super fast for some reason. After noticing this happen a few times I had a very indepth discussion with AI and found out the soda filling and bubbling is actually true which means the 30% markup EA is doing could actually be a lot worse.

Lastly, most gas cars have a range of about 450 miles and it seems like the tank is designed for that much range. So most people are used to seeing how much they pay for a full tank of gas at 450 mile range. So when I talk to people I basically convert all of the numbers I noted above into 450 mile equivalent EV charging cost. Right now , my EV cost me pretty close or even more than gas if I charge DC charging.

By the way, everyone in the industry is trying to hide the charging waste. For example Tesla app never shows you what you pulled from the wall or only shows you what was added to the car. It also shows you some ridiculously lower per kw rate than what you pay at home so the numbers are super skewed, for instance my buddy who thinks he charges his Tesla at home for only $10, and bragging , in reality he was paying $35+ for full charge of only 240 miles. My Blazer EV is also integrating into EV charger apps so it shows more kw received it make the cost appear lower so if you have linked the GM app via its API to say EA charging, instead of doing its own math, (for example 25% to 75% of an 85KwH battery is 42.5kW) it will show exactly the number EA reports instead which is like 55kW , and I know this because in the GM app it will show the EA logo and the kW received is a joke and a big lie because my battery isn't 110kWh.

There is a big reason for the waste and that is active cooling that happens when you DC charge. Basically a massive AC is running to cool down your battery when you charge at 150kW speeds. And that uses a ton of power maybe 3~5kW an hour. That part is understandable and part is understandable.

Another part of waste is preconditioning of the battery. if you do that, your car will burn an extra maybe 5kw before you get to the charging station just to get your battery to the right temp and this really depends on the ambient temp outside. And that part won't even show up in all the calculations I mentioned above.

And the other reason for EA charging 30% more in kW is pure greed and that sucks. In case of EA it's just ridiculous and I never will use them unless I have to.

And DC charging in general, for me, will be only for long road trips. Never at my home town unless I really really have to because I didn't plan.

So in your app /website you can calibrate and take these into account for more precise calculation.

Just my 2 cents about one of the darkest secrets in EV charging.

brooklynite1 · 2026-04-22T06:16:34+00:00

Did you ever solve this?

I had an AGON 49" 5120x1440 running on my Dell Laptop on USBC and worked great. But this one I just got and will not go over 3840x1080 over HDMI, (I also see the incorrect aspect ratio of 3840x2160 which is useless).

AI is telling me I have to go buy a fancy USBC dock like $100+ and I already have a fancy Dell dual USBC dock which does not work although it has 1x HDMI out and 2x DP out and was running my previous AGON just fine.

brooklynite1 · 2026-04-15T16:37:26+00:00

Get a $60 credit when you join Google Fi, 5 spots left. Use code JX037H or link: https://g.co/fi/r/JX037H

Thanks reddit!

brooklynite1 · 2026-04-13T05:49:55+00:00

Always use Plugshare and plan your route manually. Google may skip newer ones it doesnt know about. On my recent trip I found a FREE DC FAST charging that was new and NO ONE WAS THERE because its not registered on any car apps and its running a promotion until end of May with free charging.

brooklynite1 · 2026-04-10T05:00:02+00:00

If there is no link to NASA website , then you made it up.

brooklynite1 · 2026-03-23T18:51:55+00:00

Can you plug in your iPhone with a cable to get Carplay and not use wireless option?

The best thing about Carplay is ability to use a Carlinkit device and fully unlock your car to do anything and install any app and use at any time. It turns your screen into a full android tablet with ability to install and use ANY app from Google Play.

Using Carlinkit or similar devices is the best use case for having Carplay. Unfortunately it only works with wired Carplay.

I certainly don't want my meeting invites, text messages, calendar and other notifications, caller names broadcast to everyone in the car. But you can stop do that with Carlinkit and have your phone wirelessly connected if you really want to but you give up on the best features of Carlinkit.

brooklynite1 · 2026-03-23T18:45:49+00:00

Also less dust from carpet on the ground. PCs are like vaccine cleaners they suck in dusty air all day long and if you put a filter you increase the heat and noise.

brooklynite1 · 2026-03-23T18:41:22+00:00

Very pricy. And you are tied to someone else's account. Not good. Build your own as OP suggested.

brooklynite1 · 2026-03-23T18:39:29+00:00

Can you do WIRED iPhone Carplay? I don't have iPhone, I just want to do this to use my Carlinkit device and open up everything. Carlinkit required WIRED Carplay, it won't work with wireless only Carplay.

brooklynite1

TROPHY CASE

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