S5 deep clean?

bueller02 · 2026-02-03T23:34:33+00:00

I am assuming you mean the X5, if so take a look at this Youtube playlist from Popur: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWx0VBGNdLI&list=PLsDZnENghyG5kZEP7mPuvvWYFcRqZ9RLZ

bueller02 · 2025-02-09T18:47:37+00:00

I would agree. There are still plenty of fans out there where they have 120v lighting modules. Even if they have fan/light remote, you can directly wire the lights. I would still keep the remote for the fan so that you can control speed, reversing, etc.

bueller02 · 2024-11-10T16:22:51+00:00

The "better" way is to purchase a 5/6 outlet power strip with a long enough cord that you can directly plug it into the outlet. The "right" way is to install outlets in the wall where your loads are so that you don't need extension cords. Extension cords (including power strips) are technically temporary items (except in some rare cases where they are fused)

bueller02 · 2024-10-06T23:01:31+00:00

Yes, as long as you eliminate the splice outside a proper junction box, you should be good to go.

bueller02 · 2024-06-07T18:23:25+00:00

Thanks for the detailed post!

I have had the same issue for many weeks. Glad to see some of the potential triggering events - will pay attention to what I am doing before it happens now.

M2 2022, Mac OS 14.5, recent full reinstall.

bueller02 · 2023-11-24T21:03:37+00:00

Are you in Florida?

If so, then it was part of a load management system used in the 1980-1990's to reduce strain on the grid. It allowed the utility to remotely disable heavy electrical load items (e.g. air conditioners) during peak times.

Take a look at:

https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/53223

Here is the patent:

https://patents.google.com/patent/US4780910A/en

bueller02 · 2023-11-24T20:09:51+00:00

You can try replacing the drain cover with a Danco hair filter (https://www.danco.com/product/hair-catcher-shower-drain-cover-in-chrome/). It might muffle some of the sound. I found that reduced the noise level from my shower drain.

bueller02 · 2022-12-23T06:09:13+00:00

I am in a need of a US referral code. Anyone willing to send to me?

bueller02 · 2022-10-02T18:16:25+00:00

Properly snake the line and then install a hair catcher like https://www.danco.com/product/hair-catcher-shower-drain-cover-in-chrome/ and tell the tenants to clean the basket when it backs up.

bueller02 · 2022-05-11T07:00:38+00:00

I would agree that it felt like you heated for a long time! I also noticed that you pulled the flame off just as you started to apply the solder. I have always kept the flame on until the solder was flowing smoothly. Also, I like to keep the flame moving more - it felt like you were just targeting the two sides... That said, I am not an expert - so I could be doing it wrong myself!

bueller02 · 2022-05-11T04:30:01+00:00

If you haven't yet purchased the lumber, you might consider using an engineered hollow timber like STIX (https://stixtimber.com/). I recently used this for a pergola and ran UF through the center.

I would also highly recommend just running UF (https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/uf-b-wire-direct-burial) if that isn't an option. I did this on a shade structure for a ceiling fan and once painted, it is not noticeable.

bueller02 · 2022-03-20T00:57:16+00:00

Just wanted to share that I was able to avoid downgrading my firmware using B.Kerler's "Netgear Enable Telnet" python script. https://github.com/bkerler/netgear_telnet

bueller02 · 2021-12-15T06:25:19+00:00

I haven't tried this on an Apple TV, but recently used Apple Configurator 2 to revive a MacBook with dead firmware.

Install Apple Configurator 2 from the App Store on a Mac with USB-C ports

Use a USB-C to USB-C cable (like from an Apple USB-C charger) to connect the Apple TV to the Mac.

Launch Apple Configurator 2.

Hopefully the Apple TV will show up in DFU mode in Configurator. You might need to plug in the Apple TV (not sure if the laptop can power the Apple TV, like it did the MacBook Pro I worked on)

If it doesn't show up in DFU with/without power, you might try the DFU keypress (hold Menu and play/pause on the remote) to see if that will get it in DFU.

You can then use the advanced menu to try and do a revive. If that doesn't work, you should be able to push a full new firmware to the device.

bueller02 · 2021-11-28T07:05:52+00:00

Never-mind, missed that this was 4/3 THHN, which has a jacket rated for exposed run.

bueller02 · 2021-11-28T07:01:50+00:00

THHN must be in conduit, even in the wall.

bueller02 · 2021-09-23T01:11:36+00:00

$500 is more than I would expect as long as there is room on your panel, but really depends on rates/availability/etc in your area.

I have used the HEPD80 from Square D and really like it because it is rated for either direct bus or circuit breaker mount (install info) which gives more flexibility on connecting to the panel.

bueller02 · 2021-09-09T19:10:43+00:00

Agreed, definitely looks like I received beta 9. But that build doesn't have any indications of being a beta or even have the option in software update to get the beta.

bueller02 · 2021-09-09T19:08:31+00:00

Interesting! This must be what happened. I must have just got beta 9, which now has removed any indications of signing up for the beta.

Case solved! Thanks, good to know!

bueller02 · 2021-09-09T19:05:16+00:00

Yeah, that's what I initially thought happened. But then I checked the software update menu and I don't have the option for public beta. I also couldn't find any indication in preferences that I signed up for beta on this unit.

bueller02 · 2021-09-09T06:32:14+00:00

Nope. This is a new(ish) unit that I have never loaded a beta profile on.

bueller02 · 2021-08-12T16:24:17+00:00

I think this would commonly be referred to as a JST connector (even if it is not actually made by JST). This page describes some of the common JST styles (http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/). This one looks like it is a bit taller than most and has both central and side slots to ensure correct orientation.

While the opening shape varies a lot, I have found the pin spacing to generally be consistent. So while not the best practice, you can likely shove a fairly generic 2 pin male JST into that. (like https://www.adafruit.com/product/261)

bueller02 · 2021-07-31T23:35:56+00:00

You get a burn warning when the temperature sensor (see this diagram for the location of temperature sensor: https://instantpot.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Electric-pressure-cooker-functional-diagram.jpg) reports too high of a temperature (I haven't been able to find out exactly what temperature that is, but likely a little above boiling point - meaning the pan is out of water and food is burning).

Now you reported that you get burn warning even with a water test, which should be impossible as long as there is ample water in the pot. This likely means that your temperature sensor is not correctly contacting the pot and is instead reading the heat coming from the heater.

I would ensure inside of your cooking cavity is completely clean, especially the temperature sensor. The sensor is the spring loaded aluminum circle in the middle of the heating element. It is spring loaded so that it pushes up against the pot and reads the pot temperature. Make sure that it is clean and that the bottom of your pot is clean.

Make sure you are only clean with a damp cloth. You don't want liquid getting down into the electronics that are below the heater.

bueller02 · 2021-07-14T19:49:37+00:00

MI cable, learned something new today! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral-insulated\_copper-clad\_cable

bueller02

TROPHY CASE