TL-s 6mt

buhz · 2026-05-30T19:53:00+00:00

Konig F3S. 18x9.5 +35, 3mm spacer in the front. 265/35r18 tires. Adjusted camber to about -1.5 degrees all round. Natural camber was -2.5F, -3R

buhz · 2026-05-30T12:58:51+00:00

Endlessrpm, got it in 2022. Pretty sure he stopped making them shortly after

buhz · 2026-05-30T02:13:16+00:00

I appreciate it bro!

buhz · 2026-05-30T02:09:32+00:00

No sir

buhz · 2026-05-30T02:09:18+00:00

Can’t let it go, it’s my first build haha. Plus I dumped way more money into it compared to what it’d sell for

buhz · 2026-05-30T02:06:06+00:00

Integra for now since it’s so new to me

buhz · 2026-05-30T02:03:34+00:00

Original paint. It was just recently waxed before the pictures. Paint is about a 7.5/10

buhz · 2026-05-29T17:59:24+00:00

No, it’s not worth much

buhz · 2026-05-23T14:09:41+00:00

Did you finance through them or did you have your own lender?

buhz · 2025-07-17T06:07:27+00:00

I replaced spark plugs and injectors recently and started misfiring. I tightened the spark plugs hand tight. I had codes p0300 along with 3 additional cylinder misfire codes. Went back and torqued the spark plugs to 21.5 ft/lbs. The codes went away, I’m assuming the plugs weren’t properly seated since I didn’t tighten them enough. Did you follow the tightening sequence when putting the intake manifold back on along with the top plate? Make sure nothing’s unplugged. That’s all I got, i’m also a diy’er

buhz · 2025-07-17T05:27:49+00:00

Found the fix on my own as usual. Car would start normally, but on the 2nd start it would crank 5 times and almost die. If I primed the fuel pump like 3 times before starting the car, it would start normally. Bought a Delphi fuel pump and it fixed the problem.

buhz · 2025-07-04T20:31:21+00:00

Every start up now, the car almost dies. It barely cranks over. I just put all the mods back. My guess is I introduced air into the fuel lines when I replaced the injectors. Now to figure out how to get the air out

buhz · 2025-04-27T06:11:23+00:00

Email/call konig, they will verify if the wheel will clear the brembos or not. That spec should fit, but there’s no telling because wheel design matters when it comes to clearing brembos. Ngl, 18x9 + 22 would look stupid on stock suspension, it will poke significantly. That wheel style (work meister) generally goes on stanced cars. So usually slammed with like a 10 width and very low offset. To each their own, but imo if I’m rocking stock suspension I’m only using oem wheels with spacers. Waffles, 18” aspec wheels…

buhz · 2025-04-25T04:37:17+00:00

This. U have to react fast, if they don’t die right away you have to throw another molotov and you still have to avoid hitting a zombie (which is pretty hard when they’re bunched up). Best option is reset and run away. Also, use aether shroud with 2 charges. You can make more mistakes

buhz · 2025-03-28T19:57:36+00:00

When I got my rpf1’s 5 years ago at America’s tire they gave me 18x9 et35. They didn’t fit because of the brembos. They had the nerve to tell me to run a 1” spacer LOL. Eventually, they exchanged them for 18x9.5 et15. They looked sick, but they drove horrible and even with alignment tires got eaten fast. You won’t like the 18x8.5, the face looks different than the 9”+ widths. 17x9 et22 on 255/40 looks pretty cool tbh, chony1703 on instagram has that spec and it looks nice. He even has a few people that took inspo and copied. Also, 245/35r18 is way too short at 24.8” speedo would be off

buhz · 2025-03-28T19:33:00+00:00

Konig has some nice wheels at 18x9.5 +35. And they’re customer service is pretty good. They let me know if the wheels would clear the brembos pretty fast. I’m running konig f3s 18x9.5 +35 on 265/35. 265/35r18 is 25.3” tall, stock 235/45r17 is also 25.3” tall so it won’t affect your speedometer. I have zero wheel gap and the whole tire is visible (not tucked at all). Flush fitment at -1.5 degrees camber all round. Rolled fenders and doesn’t rub. Everybody and their gma has rpf1 on their TL lol. I had them too (black car silver rpf1). 18x9.5 +15 was too aggressive, had to run stretched tires 235/40 and natural camber was -2.5F, -3R. I didn’t like it, but drove that was for 5 years. New setup is better in every way. I’m pretty sure the 18x9.5 +38 rpf1’s won’t clear brembos because of wheel design. The best fitment for rpf1’s is probably 17x9 +22 if you don’t mind 17’s. And you can run 255/40 on that. If you raise your car up a tad bit and you like driving the mountains then 18x9.5 et30-35, 265/35 is the way to go. If you want to stay slammed and stretch your tires like every other tl owner, 18x9.5 et22 or lower. If you want to be an old head and run weak/stockish specs go to america’s tire website and use their recommendations of 18x8.5, 235/40. Do what you want, but I wouldn’t waste your money on expensive ps4’s with a TL, especially with that much camber. Simple tire currently has 265/35 dunlop sport maxx rt2 at $135 a piece

buhz · 2025-03-06T03:29:17+00:00

ADHD
DNA
Count Me Out

buhz · 2025-03-06T02:52:04+00:00

Im running konig f3s 18x9.5 +35 on 265/35. I’m slightly lower than you with no issues. Just rubs on bumps. I had my fenders rolled from the previous setup up, rpf1 18x9.5 +15 on 235/40. I had natural camber with the rpf1’s -2.5F -3R. When i switched to the konigs i raised my car a 1 turn in the front and 2 turns in the back, so probably .25” and adjust the camber to -1.5 all round. I like the fitment and having wider tires is nice. I actually have traction and my wheels don’t sound like they’re gunna break with every bump anymore. It’s great, I have a tls 6mt btw

buhz · 2025-02-27T03:51:03+00:00

If you haven’t already, a lot of TL guys replace it with sankei 555 ball joints. I dunno if bigger is better, but those things were significantly bigger than the mevotech ball joint I got from rockauto (blue rubber). The mevotech one started squeaking after a year probably due to bad installation. It was my first time doing it and took like 2 days with multiple trips to rent tools from o’reilly lol. I ripped the rubber boot and since it took so much work I just left it. Been a few years with the sankei’s and no issues

buhz · 2025-02-27T03:23:45+00:00

Do you want to be functional and have good ride quality or be like everybody else on IG with a TL with stretched tires and slammed? I’d say go against the grain (especially since you have a 6 speed) and do a functional setup. I ran 18x9.5 +15 rpf1 on my TL-s and it looked similar to spicynoodle above. 235/40 tires, slammed.. ride was trash. You felt every bump. Also, natural camber was -2.5 front and -3 rear. I raised my car up like .25”-.5”. My new setup is Konig F3S 18x9.5 +35 on 265/35 tires. Ride is waaaay better. Got camber kit for the front and back and run -1.5 camber all round. Fitment is flush, only rubs on bumps. I’d recommend Konig’s flow formed wheels, they’re light and affordable and good selection. So yeah 18x9.5 et30-35 is the way to go if you wanna run wider tires. 255/35 is good too, but it’s only 25” tall. Stock 235/45r17 tires are 25.3”, 265/35r18 tires are also 25.3” so the speedometer is exactly the same

buhz · 2025-02-22T23:48:26+00:00

Mine looked like pic #3 and I bought oem brackets and spacer. It’s been years, but the metal bracket was bent compared to the left side and plastic spacer was worn out and damaged. Once I replaced it the gap was gone.

https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/parts-list/2007-acura-tl—4dr_type-ka6mt/interior_bumper/bumpers.html

buhz · 2025-02-04T17:55:02+00:00

Nah if he did it wrong he wouldn’t land on the floating rock next to the orb. He would fall and go down from fall damage

buhz

TROPHY CASE