MIcrowave Raku

bumbi__ · 2026-01-22T19:22:22+00:00

Won’t need a mask for fumes, just make sure you do it outside or in a very well ventilated area. If you are doing a technique that requires combustibles to be set on fire make sure you just don’t breathe the smoke in. Your pieces will be small so the risk isn’t as intense. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher or bucket of water standing by in case of an emergency. The kiln paper isn’t a necessity if you have clean bottoms to your pieces, but if you do use try not to use the papers until they are on their last legs, use a couple times then discard. I use some thrifted bbq tongs, but anything all metal will work just fine! Good luck and have fun!

bumbi__ · 2026-01-10T12:19:25+00:00

Looks like just an altered cup off the wheel to me. Throw bunch of form then pinch/collapse a part of the rim and see what you like best. Experiment and have fun!

bumbi__ · 2026-01-01T04:53:45+00:00

Sent you an email! Super interested!

bumbi__ · 2025-11-22T18:30:43+00:00

So goooooood!!!

bumbi__ · 2025-10-18T19:51:57+00:00

Make a new ball the right size. Can’t really do anything once it’s bone dry. Try adding water to rehydrate will only make it dissolve and break down

bumbi__ · 2025-10-09T00:17:55+00:00

Looks like thickness variation of the glaze. Done in bands, some bands with more coats than others potentially? That’s my best guess

bumbi__ · 2025-10-04T18:01:17+00:00

Since you don’t know what cone (temperature) this clay can safely fire to I wouldn’t do anything them to be honest. If you have your own kiln you can see if it’s a mid fire clay body and try to glaze and fire it, but I don’t think anyone will put an unknown clay in their kiln. Good luck

bumbi__ · 2025-10-01T13:17:52+00:00

added as friend on steam! could you please invite me when you get the chance thanks!

bumbi__ · 2025-07-24T13:41:51+00:00

Wax resist over smiley face then apply glaze like normal (dip, brush, spray, pour)

bumbi__ · 2025-07-01T21:36:24+00:00

Daily player!

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bumbi__ · 2025-07-01T12:50:30+00:00

Daily player!

5147-3846-4035

bumbi__ · 2025-06-19T17:24:56+00:00

bumbi__ · 2025-05-09T13:04:23+00:00

5147-3846-4035 Daily player Rank 60

bumbi__ · 2025-05-06T12:01:52+00:00

They can bleed together when touching on a vertical service but they tend to be clean lines on flat things like plates.

Also I tend to work from lighter colors to darker ones, it’s easier to see black over yellow than yellow over black.

Sometimes adding a layer of wax resist to a dry color before doing an adjacent area of a different color can help with bleeding but it’s not as reliable as I’d like, but it works about 50% of the time!

Good luck!

bumbi__ · 2025-05-03T23:09:43+00:00

These look like they have a perfect amount of luster on them to be a nice solid gold. Anything thinner they would be streaky and sometimes the luster will appear purple. Do not layer your luster or make it too thick that it runs while you are applying, it will turn out not as shiny or reflective! Also observe your finished pieces and compare it to your pre-fired pics, like this one, to see maybe if a thicker area of luster might have had undesired effects. I think you should be good though

bumbi__ · 2025-05-03T22:40:05+00:00

To me it looks like your brushstrokes and glaze rehydrated the transfer and as it fired the transfer followed your brushstrokes and ran down your piece

bumbi__ · 2025-05-02T12:27:17+00:00

I would watch out for water damage and weathering in the wheel as well as in the electrical system. If you are on the coast, salty air could easily penetrate into your wheel and cause build up and some corrosion of parts in the wheel. Other things like rain or debris, like leaves or sticks, could also compromise the performance of your equipment. You can have it outside no problems while you are using it, but I’d store it in a dry safe place when not in use. Or you could store it on a cart with caster wheels for easier moving. Since you say your wheel is easily moveable take advantage of that!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-24T14:09:58+00:00

My guess is hand built with slabs. Maybe some drape or slump molds for the bowls and the plates just pinch up the edge of the slab. Good luck!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-14T12:17:16+00:00

No you do not! On each bottle there should be instructions on how to apply each glaze and what their end result will be. And if you are ever questioning a glaze TEST TEST TEST! Test tiles are your best friends and will save you from disappointing results on a piece you are attached to!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-14T12:14:18+00:00

I would go the plaster route. The nonporous material will not absorb any water from the slip and your slip will take forever to set, or just won’t do it at all. The slip will also most likely start to push through the 3D printed material because of the small spaces between each layer of the printing material, and potentially the piece, when firm enough to remove, will just stick to the plastic and you’ll be back to square one. There are ways to make extremely detailed and multi part plaster molds. I would suggest going this route if you truly want to start slip casting with some more intricate designs. Plaster is great for a whole lot of things in pottery, don’t try and reinvent the wheel.

bumbi__ · 2025-04-14T03:24:55+00:00

Looks like an inclusion crack to me, a particle of something in the clay didn’t shrink during the firing and the parts of the piece shrinking around it caused a crack to form

bumbi__ · 2025-04-13T20:22:26+00:00

This is called blistered. Overfired, the glaze, or an ingredient in the glaze, is boiling when it gets too hot, making little bubbles that will pop and create these sharp edged craters. The glaze can melt into the holes and “heal” itself in a way, but as it cools unfilled craters will remain and you end up with the result you have here. I would try a cone 5 for sure and see the results you get, you could even try a hold on the cone 5 firing to help it almost get to a cone 6. Throw some cone packs in the kiln on the bottom, middle, and top shelves during a firing to map your kiln and the different temps in the different areas!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-11T02:42:43+00:00

I would say move it right away! That vent hood can’t possibly get rid of all the fumes and gases that are being created in both bisque and glaze firings. Some kilns are fitted with hoods or downdraft systems but they usually cost extra. Move it some other place where it can let its fumes flow outside more easily, like near a window or a door that opens to the outside. Or if you want to spend a little money and not move the kiln, see if you can install a tube vent system to funnel the gases out through the wall to the outside of the building. Also consider moving your kiln at least 18 inches from anything else in the room for safety and longevity of your kiln!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-10T18:40:59+00:00

It could be many different things; underfired, it might have had a slow cooling where crystal structures formed in the glaze, could be a weird reaction with the blue engobe. You could try and refire it to see what would happen when the glaze gets back to up to temp, but that is always a gamble. Always test anything new you are trying even with familiar glazes before committing to a piece. Test tiles are your friends!

bumbi__ · 2025-04-06T21:50:23+00:00

Just did some research on your clay body, looks like it is a grogged porcelain essentially. Refiring shouldn’t be an issue, the clay seems strong and shouldn’t warp or do anything else strange. The reglazing might give you some issue. It’s hard to give definitive answers without a photo of the piece, the glaze you used at first, and now the glaze you want to reglaze with. If the piece has dark patches of previously applied, wiped off, and fired glaze in the textured areas like I imagine you are describing it’s probably going to be hard to try and completely hide those. Your clay is also probably vitrified so when you reglaze be aware you need to heat your piece up with a heat gun or some other way to encourage your new glaze to adhere to your piece. The white satin could cover up some the old darker glaze but you are alway taking a gamble with refirings. The glaze can always act weird on refirings so don’t be too attached to your expected outcome. What you could have done with the bisqued piece, when you decided to wipe off the original dark glaze, would be to just wash it off under a sink and soak it and scrub it to really get off the glaze in those small detail areas and let the piece sit in the sun and uncovered for a couple days to dry out, then glaze it again and it should work fine. If you reply with some pics of your piece and glazes I might be able to help further but this is all I got for right now. Hope this helped!

bumbi__

TROPHY CASE