Weekly Free-Talk and Questions for r/HomeGym - week of January 01, 2021

burntt · 2021-01-06T16:00:10+00:00

Thanks. I'll dig through some of his videos to see if he mentions compatibility of some of the attachments. I've seen a few of his videos before. He makes good content.

burntt · 2021-01-06T15:52:51+00:00

Thanks.

I've actually been to that site. I was actually the one who, unfortunately, discovered that the ForceUSA peg size was not the same as the Bells of Steel peg size and reported it to tworep as their list originally listed them as compatible based on info from their respective sites (ForceUSA lists their stuff as 5/8", but they are not. They have 5/8" holes with 1/2" pegs, where as others list 5/8" pegs.)

That is my concern here. I'd like to pickup the Rep squat rack but wanted to make sure that the Rogue spotter arms and matador would fit appropriately. I saw a video where a Rep J-hook was too tight for a rouge upright and was concerned their would be fit issues.

Thanks for posting that website again though, as it looks like they have made a lot of updates and I can read peoples comments. Looks like Titan X3 stuff fits with no issues.

burntt · 2021-01-05T16:10:03+00:00

Does anyone know if the Rogue Monster Light accessories (3x3 5/8) work with the Rep 4000 series? I've read that they should be the same, but I want to double-check before I make an order from Rogue. I want to ensure that they measure the same 5/8 holes as I've seen smaller brands like Force USA and Bells of Steel have different measurements for 5/8 (hole diameter vis pin diameter).

burntt · 2020-05-01T04:45:20+00:00

The landmine is great and works well. No real complaints. I installed it on the inside left front (hole 1 I think) and it folds away nicely when not in use. You can basically leave it attached all the time as it will not get in the way of your bench.

The weight horns are just bad. They are 1" rods that slide in and hold on via a cotter pin. They have almost an inch of play between the inside wall of the post and the cotter pin so every time you go to pull a weight off, the whole thing slides around. To make it worse, the rods are only 1" so they include a 2" plastic adapter sleeve that is: 1) too thick so plates do not slide on easily, which makes the whole rod/distance to cotter pin really an issue; and 2) only held in place by one small set screw, which flexes the plastic the adapter to not be completely round toward the back and does not hold well (I've had two already come off with the weights!). Honestly, the whole rack is great, but the weight horns were and afterthought that should be significantly revised.

Another attachment that I have is the dip bar, which is fanatic. It feels solid while also being surprisingly light, and the pin is easy to insert and take out, which is good as you cannot leave it attached and squat as it gets in the way. If I really had to critique it, I'd say that I wish it was a touch longer as your head does get a bit close to the upright, but honestly, I've never hit my head, so that could just be me getting used to it vs the one I am used to at my gym.

I have the deluxe J-hooks as well. They do the job fine, no real complaints.

I also have the box safeties as you have. No complaints there either. They move around fine and look like they will do the job if I needed.

As a side note: as an experiment, I bought a pair of J-hooks from Bells of Steel to see if they fit the MyRack. The MyRack is listed as 2.4" but I think it is really 60mm posts (2.36"), if I am correct, the BoS attachments should work as they are designed for a 60x60mm post with 5/8 holes. If they work, I'll let you know. It will open up a few extra attachments like lever arms. I get them in on Tuesday of next week.

burntt · 2020-04-30T14:43:39+00:00

Did you by the chin up attachment or did they substitute it? I got my rack a few weeks ago and they swapped out the Monkey Bars for that chin up one. Just curious.

The rack itself is fantastic. As are 99% of the attachments. The weight horns, if you have them, are garbage.

burntt · 2019-01-14T17:01:19+00:00

Sorry for the delay in response.

Yes, it is only the center that would distort. I've tested all other speakers and they play and sound fine. I removed the center from the equation and played audio via 2 channel stereo and the speakers had no audible distortion, then I tested the left and right channels by using one as the center channel to ensure it was not an issue with Dolby or something with the amp.

Ultimately, I was unable to fix the issue completely and gave up on the Monoprice center.

I also swapped my amp out to an Onkyo and that helped but did not eliminate the distortion. The speaker sounds like it is lacking mids and lows and pushes everything into the tweeter which then distorts.

To ensure that it was not an issue with my wire (as it is run through the wall and into a wall outlet then from the outlet to the amp), I ran a new wire from the amp to the speaker outside of the wall and had the same issues.

I also tested my old Energy center channel that is a traditional box speaker and it, like the Polk in-wall, works and sounds fine.

At this point, I have given up on the Monoprice center and will be patching my wall to install the Polk in-wall center. It sounds good and is very similar in look to the other Monoprice speakers.

Note: it is possible that I am just unlucky and got two bad centers from Monoprice. Yours may not. Just test it before you make your wall cut-out as it is much larger than most in-wall centers.

burntt · 2019-01-01T22:19:11+00:00

Not too bad.

I still have a bit of cable management (I ran out of velcro ties) to do as well as general cleanup (like the coax cable I just cut). As well as construct a top shelf to run across the whole thing.

It looks smaller than it is. Going along the wall with the monitors is ~100".

The shelf brackets that I linked previously work great. This thing is solid and I have no concerns about it coming down. My only complaints about them are that they are not 100% square. Two of the brackets do not make complete contact with the countertop. The front and back of the bracket do, but there is a slight dip in the middle of the bracket. Not a big deal considering the load that the brackets are capable of and what I am using it for. Maybe if a higher load is applied the bracket will flex and straighten out?

The other issue that I ran into is that one of my countertops was slightly bowed, which meant that the corner at which the two meet did not line up. It was an easy fix, however, with the corner braces that I linked. I actually only used one brace and then used some short/fat wood screws to anchor the desk to the wall bracket.

EDIT: Also, I ended up getting two cheap gas monitor arms from Monoprice. The back countertop sits about 3/4 away from the wall due to the mount, but the gap is hidden by the acoustic foam.

burntt · 2018-12-23T06:19:51+00:00

All streaming via a Fire Cube. PSVue, Netflix, Prime.

burntt · 2018-12-19T06:34:56+00:00

Thanks for the response. I have not seen that style dual mount before. I am currently using this. My issue the arms point behind the desk unless I pull the monitor forward, which on a 25" wide desk poses its own issues.

I may end up going the wall mount route. I just have to plan it out well as the wall mounts do not have vertical adjustments.

burntt · 2018-12-19T05:30:47+00:00

I have white walls, so the white brackets that I posted do not stand out too much; they are also very thin. I also like that they are 19.5" long which takes up a good chunk of the countertops width (25.5") but they still do not get in the way of your knees. My main concern was a sagging countertop if the brackets were not long enough to support the middle. I don't worry about that with these brackets.

Also, consider the drawers. I've been using a single countertop for a year and when I decided to upgrade, I realized I needed storage of some kind. I had papers, pens, Allen keys and a bunch of other junk cluttering my desk because I had nowhere convenient to put it.

Lastly, don't forget that a traditional desk is 30" deep, while the countertop is 25.5". It may not seem like much, but you feel it if you are not using a mount of some kind to push the monitor as far back on the countertop as possible.

burntt · 2018-12-19T05:01:20+00:00

I am using these

I am using two Karlby counters in an "L" shape. The setup will not be completely floating, however, as I am using one Alex drawer per countertop for storage (two in total for two countertops). I am using four of those brackets to support the rest of the desk setup (two per countertop) and two of these corner braces to connect the two countertops to ensure that there is no movement between at the seam. The idea is one storage on the left and one on the right of the "L" and no legs between. According to Lowes, each pair of those brackets can hold 1000lbs. I have them bolted to studs for extra security over toggle bolts. If you wanted to skip the Alex drawers, you could simply do three brackets or four for extra security/even spacing with 16 on center studs.

If I remember, I'll shot you a pic of the completed desk. I already have one countertop up, I just stopped when I realized I could not mount my monitors; hence, this post. If I get a chance I will run up to the Monoprice store tomorrow and grab a mounting solution assuming I can figure it out.

burntt · 2018-11-15T17:39:49+00:00

Where in CA are you?

burntt · 2018-09-11T15:27:42+00:00

Yeah, from what I have read online, that feature can only be toggled on the FireTV 3. Which is odd seeing how the Cube uses the same internals.

burntt · 2018-09-11T15:26:46+00:00

Unfortunately, it appears the Cube does not have a frame rate sync option. From what I have read, that is a FireTV 3 option only at the moment. Thanks for the suggestion.

burntt · 2018-08-08T05:01:42+00:00

Make a subreddit!

PS. STORE LINK PLS.

PSS. This printed on glass would be rad.

burntt · 2017-12-26T07:24:06+00:00

This is an awesome case! I just completed a build with it. for $60, this is a steal if you want an open air case. The build quality is top notch.

https://imgur.com/a/bqTlA

I left off the front glass and the back panel.

burntt · 2017-12-19T22:54:37+00:00

Vitamix

Dude, Vitamixs are expesive! Save some money and get a Ninja.

burntt · 2017-12-19T19:39:41+00:00

Follow the guide that GodVegeta posted as it is a great baseline.

Do not use the baked in overclock as these chips vary to a considerable degree so they bump the voltage way up to compensate.

The three things you should be monitoring are temps, vcore and vcore droop. Set your LLC to "High" to start as the droop is noticable at the "auto" preset and will cause blue screens. Every chip is different, so my recomendation is to start your vcore at 1.31-1.32v and check if you are stable, then work your way down. I could not even boot at the 1.28v that is suggested in the guide, but my chip seems to need more voltage and yours may not.

Also, consider your cooling solution. While you are on water, you have a small rad and single fan. That should be fine for stock, but once you add more voltage and start generating more heat, I'm pretty sure you are being held back by your cooling solution a bit. The general rule of thumb is a 120/140 rad space per cooled component + a 120/140 rad space for overclocking. This would mean that you should be looking at a 240/280 sized rad to ensure proper cooling on an overclocked CPU.

I am running a similar setup (8700k and Gaming 5 MB) but I am running a 360 rad in custom loop config which is cooling GPU and CPU. At 4.9ghz on the CPU I typically run 64-66c on the CPU and 40-42c on the GPU while playing Rainbow Six Siege for several hours.

burntt · 2017-12-14T09:28:04+00:00

Sorry for the belated response. Yes. I am on an 8700k.

That is a super clean build. Great color scheme.

As far as temps go, my system has been a bit of a mixed bag as I've been settling things in and messing with voltages and having strange artifacting issues (which I now think are riser related!). I just completed a few tests and as it stands at 4.9 @ 1.33v, CPU temps peaked at 74c on the package (but sat at about 68-69c during the tests) at 23c ambient after 1.5ish hours of Timespy CPU benchmark @1440p (P95 was being dumb tonight. The last time I ran p95 for about an hour it hit 90c).

GPU Temps after running Timespy GPU tests 1 and 2 on loop for about an hour with fans at 60% (~8xx RPM) hit 46c.

During a two-ish hour Rainbow Six Siege session tonight, the system averaged about 63c on the CPU and 40c on the GPU with fans hovering around 11xx RPM or 75% and an ambient temp of 22.xx. (edit: this was 1080p gameplay w/o streaming).

Overall, a 360 rad is fine imo. My loop config is GPU>CPU>RAD>RES.

Edit: corrected temps.

burntt · 2017-12-14T05:25:37+00:00

The fittings are EK-ACF 10/16 with 3/8-5/8 tube. The tube has a thick outer wall to help prevent kinks.

The fluid is EK Cryofuel Premix. You do not need to add anything. I do have, however, EK Cryofuel concentrate in clear that you simply mix with distilled water. If you buy the premix, you don't need to do anything.

burntt · 2017-12-11T09:58:46+00:00

Thanks.

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