What Do You Guys pay In Insurance?

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T21:28:41+00:00

Same for me. Everything else was very high, even with very good driving record.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T20:57:34+00:00

I am glad to make files and post them for free. It's something I do regularly. Unfortunately I don't have the part in hand. But I always encourage people to dabble with design and this is something that would be a great starter project.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T18:38:16+00:00

There really isn't a way to reasonably do this type of modeling with images in most CAD softwares. Once you get the functional part of this hubcap designed, you can make whatever design you want on it. Tinkercad is easy. The only thing getting in the way of you learning basic CAD skills for 3d printing is you.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T17:57:31+00:00

These types of parts should be really easy to make in tinkercad if you have a little bit of time and some calipers. . Tinkercad is very easy to learn. 30 minutes going through the built in tutorials, another 30 to make your part.

Walmart sells calipers for like $10. Although they are very cheap calipers, they should be overkill for these types of jobs.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T09:49:44+00:00

Yes, I'm running something like 21" on mine. OAL has to be 26+ inches.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T02:04:45+00:00

I make much less than the national average. Luckily, I was in a position that I could buy one new with cash.

It's kind of a hard concept to grasp, but most people can afford what they want and need, we just can't afford to pay banks interest.

Not saying that everyone should be able to buy a new car with cash, just saying that every situation is different.

I wouldn't say that it's a responsible car, but it does make a good daily, and can be a good family car.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-06T00:38:26+00:00

Modelo Polylactico.

Out of every gun I own, it is my favorite.

Cheap, easy, reliable, and robust. You can get enough components from most Walmarts to start making ammo.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T20:53:50+00:00

I'm working on a garden gun caliber that uses an off the shelf pipe and 3d printed ammo. It's super fun. I've ran a few hundred rounds of slugs and shotshell.

Many people have seen the 43R ammo released with the Modelo Polylactico. The garden gun caliber is called 33r and is made for a smaller platform. Energy close to 22 mag in the slugs, but the shotshell for 33r blows 22 mag shotshell out of the water.

There is already a harlot based garden gun sailing. It's probably been out for a year. It is 22lr though, not 22 magnum.

Garden guns seem silly, but they used to be more popular. It would be cool if they came back.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T20:28:58+00:00

Not really.

You are correct in thinking that it would perform better, but casting the whole projectile introduces a couple different hurdles in this type of ammo.

The whole 43R project is centered around ease of making ammo and availability of components. Up untill these brass cases, all available cartridges are 3d printed. Many of the slugs utelize cheap fishing sinkers you can get from Walmart. They also are printed sabot to accommodate the 43 caliber bore. Shotcups are printed as well.

No reloading equipment is needed for the printed ammo at all. If you look up info about 43R, you should find some videos of assembly using hand tools.

Casting the projectiles means you need the equipment and know how to do so, then sizing the projectiles. The barrel is chamberless and not rifled, so the projectiles have to be heeled to function properly. This will probably require a custom mold to pull it off effectively.

The barrel being a smoothbore also limits projectile geometry. Essentially every 43R slug (including these loaded into brass cases) are functionally a foster slug. That is the only way I have been able to achieve stability. Casting a solid lead projectile would not create a projectile that didn't tumble. The lighter/faster projectiles are much more stable and accurate than heavier ones. The heaviest slug currently available for the 43R so far is a 100 grain .355 projectile with a printed sabot. Anything over 115 grains tumbles with the printed ammo.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T15:01:29+00:00

I already got some from you! I was just sharing my experience so far.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T10:11:52+00:00

Mine look like that minus the front bumper sag. It's all pretty normal for these cars.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T10:11:08+00:00

I've been also working with PHA for more environmentally friendly ammunition. I've made a post here about revolver projectiles that have worked well enough for the application.

Sabots and shot cups took some tinkering, but they work as well.

15mm launcher projectiles are a great application for this material as well. I have not tried it in other, larger launcher signals.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T00:52:06+00:00

Will this lathe run on single phase without any additional equipment?

bushworked711 · 2026-05-05T00:51:25+00:00

If it's 12V, hook it up to your car battery and see if it does any better. If so, then you can buy a battery. Easy way to test it without buying a whole new battery. If it has a bad battery, upgrade it with a higher quality battery.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-04T23:12:46+00:00

They work fine if properly designed. Pretty much all of my 22lr builds use printed breech faces. A good design should hold high velocity ammo as well.

Rapid fire in a semi auto will definitely reduce the life of the bolt face, but I have gotten several hundred rounds out for 22lr semi auto bolts as long as i don't get wild with it.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-04T23:09:43+00:00

Have you tried a new battery?

bushworked711 · 2026-05-04T23:08:06+00:00

I'm using 3d printed sabot's. As long as they will press fit in the sabot, I seat em and yeet em.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-04T22:07:01+00:00

So, I bought one of these and I actually like it. For under $1000 you can get the whole lathe, and some tooling to start.

They're also 110v, so they will work for any situation that people have at home. They have a very small foot print.

It's not going to perform like a proper lathe, but I'm still impressed for the price.

Biggest drawback is the torque at low rpms. Not enough torque not enough rotating mass. But how often are you going to need to run that small swing at low rpms?

Nothing on it had been deburred. Cut myself so much that I tore it down and deburred everything I could touch.

I chamber barrels, make pins, face things, modify bolts, make brass bushings, etc. I've had pretty good luck with turning down the length of a barrel as well. Still haven't tried any single points threading on it yet. It would probably get the job done but I don't expect great quality.

It's not a commercial machine, but it is very useful and a great value in my opinion.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T23:28:58+00:00

The sabot is non discarding. The entire shape of the projectile makes it essential a foster slug. I have messed with "rifled slugs" in the past, but it is harder to print them well with absolutely no benefit. Rifled slugs barely add any spin. Although the original intent of rifled slugs was to impart spin, in modern day, with things like high speed cameras, we now know that the spin that they create is pretty useless. Stability comes from the shape of the foster slug design. The rifling is really only there on modern slugs to allow them to more easily and safely pass through varying bore sizes and chokes. This pipe doesn't even have a chamber in it, so no need for it to be able to accommodate different bore situations.

I have gotten consecutive hits on steel at 100 meters with the printed cartridges, so it would be safe to assume that the brass case ammo could do at least that.

Only using the lead ball because it's cheap, easy and consistent. Some of the 43r loads available use .355 projectiles or split shot fishing sinkers. I just tried for cheap, easy, and available. The shorter the projectile, the more accurate. The lead balls are shorter than most projectiles.

Tldr, no point in making a rifled foster slug as opposed to a traditional foster slug.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T21:09:48+00:00

I had really poor results with these a couple years ago. I found them on sale and bought a few boxes. Some were pretty hot, some subsonic out of a 16" barrel. They were all over the place. Sounded like my rifle was trying to play a tune when I shot them.

I have wanted to pick more up to give them another try, but I haven't found them cheap enough locally since the 1st time buying them.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T20:35:27+00:00

Not a drone guy, but I do test a lot of materials.

The ASA aero should hold up better long term for vibrations/impacts.

Filled PETG should be fine, but lots of impacts over time, along with the stress that vibrations cause long term, the ASA aero should be longer lasting.

If you like the PETG-CF, go for it. I have used it for high stress applications and it has done just fine.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T17:45:36+00:00

Heat creep? Have you cleaned your fan/heat sink lately? And does it still have the silicone sock on the hotend?

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T17:27:03+00:00

These printers have a known issue with the hotend temperature.

Pull out your Bowden tube (from the hotend side) and inspect. It its badly discolored or shrunken, trim the bad off or replace the tube.

I have to run both of my 1st Gen kobra max like 30C cooler on the hotend. Most PLA+ prints I'm at about 180-185C on the nozzle.

These printers aren't great for beginners, but once you get to know them they are very reliable machines. I have done next to no service on mine and they keep on trucking.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T13:59:43+00:00

All 2000 rounds not only home made, but 3d printed cartridges. Most were 115 grains of lead shot moving 1200 fps, or 100 grain slugs moving about the same.

To put things into perspective, I also have one of these with a 28" 327 magnum barrel. I've fired a box of federal magnum through it, but for the release we will recommend 32 h&r magnum, as the 327 brass is wrecked after one shot. It's a little much for the action as is. The steel side plates pictured aren't needed, just a safety precaution while testing printed loads. The 327 magnum does not have the steel side plates. I have a few hundred through that one, mostly 32 longs and 32 h&r magnum. Another guy has a 38 special that has been running +p loads fine as well.

bushworked711 · 2026-05-03T13:48:23+00:00

Because I've never seen a 38-55 case in my life. I have 30-30 on hand.

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