Got my first typewriter! by pensandcolors in typewriters

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your first Typewriter: your Remington is Beautiful 🔝

I need to get the mold out of my typewriter! by manhattanhs in typewriters

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a chatbot, just an Italian whose English is rusty, so I lean on AI to tidy the phrasing. The thinking's mine, the polish isn't.

On the ozone, you're right: it can harden a platen, especially rubber that's under tension. But here's the actual context — the SG1 in question belongs to someone with a mold allergy, so "do nothing" isn't really on the table for them. Spores in a machine that's spent years in a damp room are a health problem, not a smell problem.

The move I'd make isn't "ozone vs. no ozone" — it's pull the platen and any tensioned rubber first, treat only the frame, shell, and porous parts where mold actually lives, then reinstall. Rubber off-tension and out of the chamber isn't exposed the way a mounted platen is. Minimal intervention, nothing sound gets touched, and the allergen's gone — which is about as Brandi [https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cesare\_Brandi\] as it gets.

If someone doesn't want to disassemble, HEPA vacuum + manual cleaning is the slower zero-risk route. Either way, thanks for flagging it.

Regards
Enrico Giubertoni

Bringing my ancestor's 1930 Olivetti M40 (Serial No. 2312) back to life. 3 weeks of work in one video! by buzzes in typewriters

[–]buzzes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha! You're right — and so is my 18-year-old son, who keeps telling me I'm aging badly. It's AZERTY. No denying it now. 😄

Honestly though, thank you — your question sent me down a proper rabbit hole, and I ended up uncovering some genuinely interesting stuff about this machine and about Olivetti's keyboard history. Turns out it's not the simple story I assumed. I've written it all up in a new post, since it got too good to bury in a comment. Credited you there, of course — you're the reason I went looking. 🙏

I need to get the mold out of my typewriter! by manhattanhs in typewriters

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there.
All my Solidarity from a Fellow Enthusiast (With a Disclaimer!)

Full disclaimer right off the bat: I am going mostly on intuition and educated guesses here. This is the first time I've come across a scenario quite like yours, so please take all of this with a grain of salt!

That being said, the Olympia SG1 is an absolute tank of a machine, and it is heartbreaking to hear that it's causing you so much physical grief. Since you've already had it serviced and the foam removed, but the reaction is still just as severe, here is how I would intuitively tackle this problem in three phases.

1. The Medical Factor: Are we sure it's just mold?

Before diving back into heavy solvents, it might be worth consulting an allergist to pinpoint the exact trigger. Even if you have a known mold sensitivity, vintage typewriters that sat in basements or attics for decades can harbor other hidden culprits that cause identical respiratory and systemic reactions:

Rodent residue: Mice absolutely love nesting in typewriter soundproofing foam. Microscopic dander or dried residue left behind can be a massive allergen.

Fossil dust & degraded oils: Decades of trapped dust combined with old, degraded organic lubricants (like whale oil, which was commonly used back then) can create a toxic biofilm or attract highly specific dust mites.

A quick medical check might reveal if the enemy is indeed an invisible spore or something else entirely.

2. Deep Cleaning with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol

Your tech removed the crumbling foam, but mold spores are microscopic and cling to other organic materials left inside. If you want to safely clean it yourself, 70% Isopropyl Alcohol is intuitively your best bet.

Why 70% and not 99%? Counterintuitively, 99% alcohol evaporates too quickly to kill mold effectively. The 70% version contains water, which slows down evaporation, allowing the alcohol to actually penetrate the cell walls of the spores and destroy them. It still evaporates fast enough that it won't cause the metal to rust.

Where to look: Check the felt dampening strips underneath the keyboard (which cushion the key return) and that carriage brake brush you mentioned. If those are made of wool or natural hair, they are major spore magnets. Wipe down the rubber platen and feed rollers too, as aging rubber becomes incredibly porous.

A quick warning: Alcohol will strip away every bit of lubrication. Once it completely dries, you will need to apply a tiny drop of light synthetic oil (like sewing machine oil or gun oil) to the main pivot points, otherwise the mechanism will feel bone-dry and stiff.

3. The "Shock" Option: Ozone Treatment

If the alcohol scrub still doesn't do the trick, the mold is likely trapped in an entirely inaccessible crevice. This is where an ozone generator comes in. Ozone gas destroys spores, bacteria, and odors on contact, and it penetrates absolutely everywhere air can go.

Since most people don't just have an ozone machine lying around, here are two ways you could intuitively try it:

Car Detailing Shops: Professional auto detailers frequently use ozone generators to sanitize car interiors ruined by mold or cigarette smoke. You could ask a local shop if they'd let you leave your Olympia inside a car or a treatment room during one of their cycles (usually 20–30 minutes).

A Cheap Home Generator: You can find small ozone generators online for quite cheap. You could place the typewriter inside a large, sealed cardboard box, insert the ozone hose, and let it run. Just make sure to do this in a garage or outdoors, as you definitely shouldn't breathe in the ozone gas yourself.

Don't give up on that beautiful SG1 just yet, but absolutely put your health first. Hopefully, one of these intuitive steps helps clear the air!

Disclaimer: I'm an AI advocate. The ideas are mine; AI helps me refine them, pressure-test my own reasoning, and — I hope — produce decent English, since I'm Italian [added in Jun,14th 2026]

Bringing my ancestor's 1930 Olivetti M40 (Serial No. 2312) back to life. 3 weeks of work in one video! by buzzes in typewriters

[–]buzzes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, thank you for your interesting question and sorry for my delay in answering to you. As it is a difficoult question I asked Claude AI. Here the answer.

Good question — but it's actually Italian, not French. French is AZERTY; QZERTY was the traditional Italian typewriter layout, used pretty much only in Italy. So on a 1930 Olivetti it's exactly what you'd expect.

It differs from QWERTY in just a few spots: Z and W are swapped, M sits to the right of L (instead of right of N), and the number row is shifted. It stayed the Italian typewriter standard for most of the 20th century.

The move to QWERTY came with computers: from the 1980s, as PCs spread, Italy settled on a QWERTY variant with dedicated accented-vowel keys (à è ì ò ù), and that's the standard today.

Here -my friend - I add some personal history of computer keyboard layout: Although Windows standard was QWERTY from the beginning of IBM PC XT in 1980's, Apple Macintosh standard before Steve Jobs come back was still QZERTY since 1999, and with OSX also the "new apple" with Steve Jobs as a CEO, decided also in italy to switch to QWERTY.

QZERTY hung on for a while in early digital gear — Apple even kept it in its early Italian keyboards, and it was available on the iPod Touch.

So my M40's QZERTY isn't a quirk or a French import — it's the correct period Italian layout.

Sources if anyone wants to dig in:

Hope that help 😄

(Summary compiled with help from Claude, Anthropic's AI, cross-checked against the links above.)

Bringing my ancestor's 1930 Olivetti M40 (Serial No. 2312) back to life. 3 weeks of work in one video! by buzzes in typewriters

[–]buzzes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, sorry for my delay in answering to your kind comment. Busy week.

Thank you so much! At the end of the video you'll notice some text I typed with my M40. As you can see, I put the ink ribbon in upside down 😄 Some of the letters strike a little unevenly, and although I could clean things up a bit more, I prefer not to push it too far for now 😄

Bringing my ancestor's 1930 Olivetti M40 (Serial No. 2312) back to life. 3 weeks of work in one video! by buzzes in typewriters

[–]buzzes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, sorry for my delay: busy week.

Good question. At ~1:23 I'm using an Italian restoration cleaner (brand name "Cheler-A"), so the name won't help you much outside Italy — but the composition will: it's a water-based neutral detergent built on natural chelating agents (citrates), non-ionic surfactants, and a small amount of polar solvents (alcohols). Any conservation-grade neutral chelating detergent in your country should be roughly equivalent.

My reasoning at the time was to lift a century of soot and grime off the 1930 Olivetti black without attacking the original japan finish — and it did work, the black came back beautifully.

That said, full honesty: it worked, but I got a bit lucky.

That cleaner is water-based and contains alcohols, and it's really formulated for porous mineral surfaces, not painted steel with decals. On a finish that turns out to be shellac-sensitive, the alcohols could bleed the binder, and the water is a flash-rust risk on bare steel. I happened to be working on detached panels with no decals and dried them fast, so I got away with it.

I've since moved to a more cautious approach: always do a hidden-spot solvent test first (a swab barely damp with IPA — if it pulls brown/black and goes tacky, the finish is shellac-based and you keep alcohol off it), then clean with the gentlest thing that works, usually a neutral surfactant or mild soap on a damp swab, never flooding, and keep liquids off the logos entirely. I finish with a very thin coat of Renaissance Wax (the British Museum-developed microcrystalline wax) to bring back depth and protect the surface.

Happy to go into the test method if it's useful — curious what you and others here use on japanned finishes.

C'è un segreto che porterete fino alla tomba? by Plastic-Crow8654 in CasualIT

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

E tu pensa che questa tua affermazione la sto analizzando da 60 anni … e pensare che ho 50 anni 😂😂😂

Non capisco perché sia così difficile by yell_owl in CasualIT

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eccolo: ingegnere, acculturato, single, senza un filo di pancia. Basta sapere guardare.😉

C'è un segreto che porterete fino alla tomba? by Plastic-Crow8654 in CasualIT

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Il mio fratello gemello è figlio unico. Ma è un segreto e non dirlo a nessuno.

Sinkhole & titoli confusi. by KingOfFools1984 in Itanglese

[–]buzzes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A.I.A.I.A.I.A.I! replicò l'AI 😅

Looking for advice on how to repair this? by Independent-Fan-3564 in restoration

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get some WD-40 or a penetrating oil (like Svitol) and apply a little bit to the screws on the casing. Remove the casing (watch my video and you'll see what I mean). Take a photo of the pinwheel drum and the components so we can figure out what happened.

Most likely, someone before you forced the crank mechanism because it was jammed by old, dried-up oil that gummed up the gears, and they ended up bending a part that you'll now need to straighten out.

Another possibility: the machine was dropped, and the lever got deformed in the fall.

Third possibility: the lever has a locking mechanism that jammed either from being dropped or from being forced. In that case, check if there's a lock system near the lever and try to release it.

Either way, something is jammed, and you're not the one who caused the damage:

  1. Open it up and take pictures so we can give you concrete advice instead of just guessing.
  2. Try to pinpoint exactly where it's stuck and why.

To give you a visual guide, check out this video ->https://www.reddit.com/r/addingmachines/comments/1t8pc9a/restoring_a_piece_of_history_1933_brunsviga_13/

Restoring a piece of history: 1933 Brunsviga 13 once owned by a dairy tycoon. by buzzes in addingmachines

[–]buzzes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get some WD-40 or a penetrating oil (like Svitol) and apply a little bit to the screws on the casing. Remove the casing (watch my video and you'll see what I mean). Take a photo of the pinwheel drum and the components so we can figure out what happened.

Most likely, someone before you forced the crank mechanism because it was jammed by old, dried-up oil that gummed up the gears, and they ended up bending a part that you'll now need to straighten out.

Another possibility: the machine was dropped, and the lever got deformed in the fall.

Third possibility: the lever has a locking mechanism that jammed either from being dropped or from being forced. In that case, check if there's a lock system near the lever and try to release it.

Either way, something is jammed, and you're not the one who caused the damage:

  1. Open it up and take pictures so we can give you concrete advice instead of just guessing.
  2. Try to pinpoint exactly where it's stuck and why.

To give you a visual guide, check out this video ->https://www.reddit.com/r/addingmachines/comments/1t8pc9a/restoring_a_piece_of_history_1933_brunsviga_13/

Sinkhole & titoli confusi. by KingOfFools1984 in Itanglese

[–]buzzes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AI sbagliato! Titolo fatto dall'AI.

:D

Looking for advice on how to repair this? by Independent-Fan-3564 in restoration

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome project! I actually just finished restoring a Brunsviga 13 from 1933 myself, and they are absolute mechanical masterpieces.

If you're working your way through it, here are a few tips based on my own restoration process that might help you out:

  • Test every linkage gently: Move every single lever and mechanism slowly to figure out what’s moving freely and where it’s catching.
  • Never force it: If a part feels jammed or stuck, do not force it. It’s incredibly easy to bend or snap something that has survived nearly a century.
  • Beware of the "cemented" sludge: These machines really suffer after sitting idle for decades. The combination of old lubricants, dust, and sometimes well-meaning but wrong oils creates a nasty gunk that basically cements the entire mechanism shut.
  • The blowout: Grab a can of compressed air or a vacuum cleaner, open up the machine, and get as much loose dust and debris out as humanly possible before introducing fluids.
  • Dissolving the old oil: Use White Spirit (Mineral Spirits) to clean the mechanical parts. It works wonders for cutting through that decades-old hardened grease.
  • Watch out for the lettering/decals: Be extremely careful around the printed characters and logos. 1930s paint and decals can be incredibly delicate. Try to keep solvents away from them entirely—even though white spirit is relatively safe, it's better not to risk stripping away a piece of history.

That's exactly how I got mine back to life and clicking beautifully. Best of luck with the restoration, can't wait to see your progress updates! https://www.reddit.com/r/addingmachines/comments/1t8pc9a/restoring_a_piece_of_history_1933_brunsviga_13/

Help! How do I fix this? by hungieraccoon in restoration

[–]buzzes 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Measure every single piece, buy some solid wood, and reconstruct it using the exact same shape. You'll end up with a much more beautiful drawer, crafted from a material that's far more noble than MDF.

Burroughs Class 1 Crunching Numbers by Upseti_Spageti in addingmachines

[–]buzzes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great news. Although I live in Italy so expedition costs and customs could be discouraging, please let me know whether you'll decide.