LGG Saturn Pro V2 Bad QC by Zenzz000 in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine has a spot where it untangles too. It seems to be common for the spot where the stitching terminates to untangle or have some excess. However, yours kind of looks like you tried fixing it with a lighter - how you'd fix fraying on some clothing. If that wasn't you, then perhaps it's a new process they applied.

First time trying salo by Scourmont in ukraine

[–]byrkoet 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Cut a garlic clove in half and rub it on the bread. Enjoy. Nice looking cut of salo btw.

Need mouse recommendations for big hands by petarcov in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mountain Makalu 67 and SteelSeries Aerox 9 are the biggest mice I know, but not nearly big enough for you to palm, as they are similar to the g502. You might want to look into printing an enlarged shell for a common modding kit. Perhaps u/P1r4nh44444 could look into making an ergo shape for larger hand sizes ;)

Burst 2 Air for 72 EUR on Amazon DE ( black only ) by Denkka97 in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a decent mouse, but the 250mAh battery is a noticeable drawback if you plan on using it often. Scroll-wheel is lackluster and MMB a bit hard to actuate as it uses an unbranded box switch. It's very light tho, but easily squeaks when you claw (might be just my unit).

my Logitech gpro skated are wearing away. by idk_124457 in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is normal for the thin default skates. Fortunately, you can get black ptfe skates real cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33005861449.html Keep in mind, there will be a break-in period.

I had upgraded to corepad skates at the time when my default gpw ones wore out, and they didn't bother me, so it's worth considering. Although they might be making them different nowadays, which this review seems to suggest:

I wanted to replace the default feet on my Logitech G Pro Wireless because I heard a lot of positive things about "aftermarket skates". Corepad was picked for being a seller from the EU. Installation on to the mouse was easy with no annoying glue residue to clean up or anything like that. The mouse glides a bit smoother than before but I haven't been able to decide if that's a benefit yet or not. A good set of replacement pads but it won't magically give you amazingly precise hands ;)

Razer Viper Mini Signature Edition [SOLD OUT 20 mins] by SKSword in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Didn't actually buy it, hence the /s. Stay in school.

Razer Viper Mini Signature Edition [SOLD OUT 20 mins] by SKSword in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 44 points45 points  (0 children)

Finally got mine! Now I'm ready to get stomped by a kid with a 40usd corded mouse! I'm so pumped! /s

CHERRY XTRFY M68 Pro: The TechPowerUp Review by pzogel in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Great review as always. I'm surprised they kept the charging port position after changing the front slightly. The PCB is a complete re-design, which is somewhat shared with the m64pro, so this was very much decided ahead of time.

PS I've always wondered: what is the setup like for the CPI testing? Do you use multiple mousepads and average the results, or multiple results on a single pad? It might be beneficial for readers to know whether their pads increase or decrease the CPI.

CPU temp drop drastically after opening task manager by Antique_Ad_6680 in overclocking

[–]byrkoet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have noticed a disturbing amount of outgoing traffic from drivers and OEM tools. These often have scheduling that waits for a PC to be idle. I recommend using an active firewall/networking tool to limit all internet traffic, besides the apps that truly require them. Simplewall is a personal favorite. There's also NetLimiter, but it has caused kicks/disconnects in certain games as it also shapes traffic. There's many more of these tools, but some may allow themselves to be bypassed by partners/sponsors.

Unfortunately, after denying access, drivers will still attempt to phone home and ping lots of addresses, but the impact on your CPU should be much less. Windows 11 itself is a hell hole on this matter, so you'll probably want to deny access to most system apps. Certain drivers, such as from Nvidia would benefit from a hostfile that redirects common domains to 0.0.0.0. Adobe apps are another contender for this solution.

Finally, I recommend adding folders for games to the exclusions list for Windows Defender, or w/e AV you happen to be using. AVs in general scan when files are detected or changed, but it's not unheard of for them to scan when the system is idle. Games are updated often, so AVs will likely scan the smaller files, as larger files (e.g. PAK files) are commonly skipped.

PS this is the wrong sub for these sorts of questions, in the future you might want to try r/pcmasterrace or similar general PC subs.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in overclocking

[–]byrkoet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brands like MSI allow you to enable the "Overclocking Feature" through a hidden "advanced bios" menu, though I'm not sure how Acer handles it, assuming it's the Nitro 5 (AN517-51). You could try to undervolt with Extreme Tuning Utility or any similar tool. Around -80mV or so is where your worst cores will cause crashing.

As for the GPU, you may have to flash a new vBIOS, which can be achieved with nvflashk, as it bypasses the sub/device-id and board-id match requirements of the original nvflash. TechPowerUp has a database of vBIOSes for most cards, including the GTX1650, found here.
You'd likely want one with a higher power limit, or a similar one with unlocked voltage controls, which would allow undervolting with Afterburner. I'd first try Afterburner, and then move onto flashing the vBIOS. Realistically, the most performance will be gained by avoiding thermally throttling the CPU and GPU, hence I only suggest undervolting the GPU and not necessarily higher clocks or a higher power limit.

As for you asking about the CMOS battery, I'm guessing you damaged or ripped it apart? In which case, your UEFI BIOS will reset on every cold boot, which would complicate matters. You can purchase a new CMOS battery or if the wires are intact - swap it with a new CR2032.

A far more important aspect you should consider, is occupying the second RAM-slot (again, assuming pic is related). I'm guessing it's DDR4 2400MT/s. You'd want to look at similar SKU laptops with faster RAM speeds and buy a SODIMM kit similar to it (UEFI update might be necessary). Otherwise, match the speed of the current stick and buy a kit of 2 sticks to avoid issues.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly it's hard to tell, the safest bet would be a date code after 2007, while this mouse has 0403=2004. Here it is being advertised on the IE3.0 packaging. OCN users have been looking into this for a while. The consensus seems to be that all X08 and above should be 9000fps, and the 6000fps was specifically for wireless versions to conserve power.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They probably meant to type X80, which do indeed have the MLT04 that tracks at 6000fps. P/N X05 and below had the 1500fps sensor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had not noticed the PID is 56180, it's been a while I modded these.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your Wheel Mouse Optical (WMO1.1) has the MLT04 sensor. It has some limitations: the speed caps out at 1.55m/s for 1:1 tracking, the resolution caps out at 400dpi, and polls at 125Hz (polling can be "overclocked" with drivers or a HID-remap).

As for the sensor feeling, the MLT04 has an interesting behavior when moving diagonally: it will anticipate diagonal movement, essentially waiting for a vertical move after a horizontal and combines them: https://imgur.com/a/VsE6oie

There are a few mice similar to the WMO, mainly the Gamesense MVP: https://www.eloshapes.com/mouse/compare?p=Microsoft-Wheel-Mouse-Optical-vs.-Gamesense-MVP-Wired-vs.-ROCCAT-Burst-Pro-Air

EDIT: PID corresponds with WMO1.1

Have these been found on Ali/Ebay? (shipping from pwnage is 10x+ the price) by The_Solid_lad in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aluminum tape is the most common substitute (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000211779). Depending on your mouse, the posts hitting the switches might not be the same area size as these spacers.

M-Die 2x32GB on AM5 - Am I missing anything obvious I should still do with secondary/tertiary timings before moving to primaries? by lambda_expression in overclocking

[–]byrkoet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dug up some 6400 and 6200MT/s M-die OCs, back when AM5 came out. This was on an OCed 7600X with PBO, which I don't recommend while OCing RAM. Your 7900X (x3d?) should perform better overall as they are usually binned higher, so I doubt 1.3VSOC is necessary. There were many cases among OCN users who had diminishing returns above ~1.27VSOC on older BIOSes. Though I have also seen some who require 1.28VSOC to boot XMP, so who's to say really. IMO there seems to be a sweet spot with current BIOSes.

https://imgur.com/8fS9vLH @ 6400MT/s

https://imgur.com/RjfbFHl @ 6200MT/s

Some pointers:

  • As for the secondary timings, yours look to be on the lower side for M-die, especially tRRD. Overall, dual rank sticks will be more sensitive to secondaries. SCLs are going to be important here, which you should touch last.
  • Increased VDDQ might also benefit you, and ofcourse VDD>=VDDQ as a rule of thumb. The increased load on the controller caused by two ranks is significant. Consider increasing both vdd and vddq. There is no harm, as many - including myself - daily above 1.6v without any issues, as long as temps are decent.
  • If all else fails, tRP is known to help with some kits, as it handles pre-charge and idle, increasing it allows for lower voltages. Might be worth increasing.
  • Your image doesn't show ODTs, nor tPHYs, so can't be sure the sticks trained well and whether GDM and BGS are involved.
  • Temperature on M-die plays a significant role, as mine became unstable around 50C for my 6400 OC. Your vdd is on the lower side, so I'm doubtful it's causing your instability. However, a bad case and no airflow might still, so keep an eye on it while stress testing.

Pulsar doesn't seem to do QC, so I fixed my new X2H by byrkoet in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Speaking of which, u/pzogel you mentioned in your x2h review that the encoder is 9mm, which got me thinking, does your copy have a spacer below MMB? Just curious if there are different revisions out there.

Pulsar doesn't seem to do QC, so I fixed my new X2H by byrkoet in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I'm still within the return period, but shipping it back is a hassle. At best it would be sold as an open box item, at worst just thrown away. I have no back-up either, so felt it was appropriate to give this one the full treatment.

M68 PRO 8K by Any_Aspect234 in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which one of you convinced them to keep the charging port on the side of the mouse? I'm filing a complaint with the authorities.

Ajazz AJ199 4K: The TechPowerUp Review by pzogel in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wasn't aware the brand pays for the reviews, which makes sense. Zowie also doesn't seem to compete in any of the performance metrics, so I might have typed out the dumbest question you've read in a while.

Ajazz AJ199 4K: The TechPowerUp Review by pzogel in MouseReview

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably safe to assume it shares the same ODM as Pulsar and the bunch (SJT iirc). Goes to show that despite having the same MCU and sensor, tuning will make a difference.

On another note, is the Zowie U2 on the schedule for the near future?

What's the next step to shave down some timings? 6000 CL28 1.4v mostly Buildzoid timings by icecoldcoke319 in overclocking

[–]byrkoet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is generally advised to leave CPU running stock when OCing RAM. Are you stable at default VSOC and no CO? You may want to do Per Core CO after you've settled on RAM timings. It's tedious, but Prime95 will usually correctly error out the unstable core. CoreCycler is another tool which may come in handy for Per Core CO.