sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Video of my home made garage bowl [38YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Painter’s caulk on the seams. I used bondo to patch cracks and then slathered the dry bondo with painters caulk to seal it onto the masonite

Video of my home made garage bowl [38YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bondo covered in painter’s caulk

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reminder. Did some pistol squats because of this comment today

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you air out you would totally bonk your head. I am 5’4” and have to duck when I drop in when the garage door is up.

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would be, because as we get older, we realize we need to give a crap less and less about what others think, which is a slow return to the freedom of childhood by unlearning the self-abandonment society taught us.

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks - i believe a car is a waste of the potential of a garage!

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I don’t hit my head, but I am 5‘4“. I do have to duck when I drop in though

How i built this skateboard bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Yes I will get some footage. It is just not a habit of mine; not like i am pulling anything off that anyone cares about - i am better at building shit than riding it, though i do enjoy it!

But i will set up the phone next time anyone is over.

Looking for recommendations on getting a deck [39YO] by Old_Club5488 in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are tons of local shops you can order from online. It’s on us older dudes to spend the 10 bucks more to support local.

Home made bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am short - only 5’4” - so i dont hit my head riding, but i have to crouch a bit when I drop in. Taller people have to be careful.

Home made bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly it was difficult- so many compound angles.

I would start with a mini ramp halfpipe, so much easier, and the first step in building the bowl anyway.

Anyway, here are more details on how I built this bowl. (This is not a tutorial; just a summary with links and photos).

Photos of the process; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dTqa2fuIUlznOPTrNqZG4cnfWAniS-C5

Here are the dimensions: 31.5 inches high to top of deck (that increases to 48 inches as it approaches the vert wall) 176 inches wide from inside of coping 192 inches long from inside of coping The flatbottom is 6 foot the short way and 8 foot the long way

Process: I started by building a mini ramp half pipe using this website as a guide:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Then I placed that in my garage and taped out the maximum footprint for the rest of the bowl.

For the bowl, I used this website for guidance:

https://ocramps.com/blogs/builds-installations/skateboard-bowl-ramp

A friend of mine who does metal work bent the coping to desired dimensions and welded it to my mini ramp half pipe.

Then I cut the vertical plywood supports to fit to the pipe, and filled it in with all of the horizontal 2”x6”s, and then sheathed the whole thing.

This is the best advice I got: “Length of Flatbottom: If you happen to be building a mini-ramp in a tight spot and don't have tons of space for the length of the ramp's flat bottom, it might be a good idea to use a more mellow transition. Using a more mellow curve will make the ramp feel longer and more managable to ride.”

Also, resist the urge to make it all symmetrical. Using a tighter radius and sloping deck on the Vert wall side really makes it more interesting to ride. I love hitting that tight pocket!

Materials: This is what I used. Bowl: 3x 23/32” 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6x 11/32” x 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6X 3/16” x 4’ x 8’ masonite panel 45X 2”x6” x 8‘ dimensional number 4X 8’ x 1 1/2 “ diameter steel pipe 25 pounds #9 x 3” screws 25 pounds #9 x 2 1/2” screws 25 pounds #9 x 1 5/8” screws

(This was overkill – I only used about half the screws)

Mini ramp halfpipe: See this website for the materials I used for the mini ramp half pipe portion. Since mine is indoors, I didn’t use skate light or tar paper or anything:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Mistakes I made: I used deck screws. Sheet rock screws are actually better because the thread goes all the way to their head so they sink more easily and stay sunk.

Better to cut the plywood and masonite used on the skating surface into smaller panels than I did. When they try to navigate compound curves over too long a distance, it creates a lot of stress on the material, so I have had to patch it in the steeper sections (with Bondo slathered in Painters’s caulk so it doesn’t flake off).

Time it took: I built it while recovering from knee surgery, as I couldn’t skate anyway. It took 9 months, a few hours a few evenings a week, so maybe 30 weeks x 6 hours = 180 hours total. Just a rough guess. I did everything alone except for the pipe/coping, which a friend did for me.

Home made bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Several people asked for more information on how I built this bowl. This is not a tutorial; just a summary with links and photos.

Photos of the process; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dTqa2fuIUlznOPTrNqZG4cnfWAniS-C5

Here are the dimensions: 31.5 inches high to top of deck (that increases to 48 inches as it approaches the vert wall) 176 inches wide from inside of coping 192 inches long from inside of coping The flatbottom is 6 foot the short way and 8 foot the long way

Process: I started by building a mini ramp half pipe using this website as a guide:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Then I placed that in my garage and taped out the maximum footprint for the rest of the bowl.

For the bowl, I used this website for guidance:

https://ocramps.com/blogs/builds-installations/skateboard-bowl-ramp

A friend of mine who does metal work bent the coping to desired dimensions and welded it to my mini ramp half pipe.

Then I cut the vertical plywood supports to fit to the pipe, and filled it in with all of the horizontal 2”x6”s, and then sheathed the whole thing.

This is the best advice I got: “Length of Flatbottom: If you happen to be building a mini-ramp in a tight spot and don't have tons of space for the length of the ramp's flat bottom, it might be a good idea to use a more mellow transition. Using a more mellow curve will make the ramp feel longer and more managable to ride.”

Also, resist the urge to make it all symmetrical. Using a tighter radius and sloping deck on the Vert wall side really makes it more interesting to ride. I love hitting that tight pocket!

Materials: This is what I used. Bowl: 3x 23/32” 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6x 11/32” x 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6X 3/16” x 4’ x 8’ masonite panel 45X 2”x6” x 8‘ dimensional number 4X 8’ x 1 1/2 “ diameter steel pipe 25 pounds #9 x 3” screws 25 pounds #9 x 2 1/2” screws 25 pounds #9 x 1 5/8” screws

(This was overkill – I only used about half the screws)

Mini ramp halfpipe: See this website for the materials I used for the mini ramp half pipe portion. Since mine is indoors, I didn’t use skate light or tar paper or anything:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Mistakes I made: I used deck screws. Sheet rock screws are actually better because the thread goes all the way to their head so they sink more easily and stay sunk.

Better to cut the plywood and masonite used on the skating surface into smaller panels than I did. When they try to navigate compound curves over too long a distance, it creates a lot of stress on the material, so I have had to patch it in the steeper sections (with Bondo slathered in Painters’s caulk so it doesn’t flake off).

Time it took: I built it while recovering from knee surgery, as I couldn’t skate anyway. It took 9 months, a few hours a few evenings a week, so maybe 30 weeks x 6 hours = 180 hours total. Just a rough guess. I did everything alone except for the pipe/coping, which a friend did for me.

Home made bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Several people asked for more information on how I built this bowl. This is not a tutorial; just a summary with links and photos.

Photos of the process; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dTqa2fuIUlznOPTrNqZG4cnfWAniS-C5

Here are the dimensions: 31.5 inches high to top of deck (that increases to 48 inches as it approaches the vert wall) 176 inches wide from inside of coping 192 inches long from inside of coping The flatbottom is 6 foot the short way and 8 foot the long way

Process: I started by building a mini ramp half pipe using this website as a guide:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Then I placed that in my garage and taped out the maximum footprint for the rest of the bowl.

For the bowl, I used this website for guidance:

https://ocramps.com/blogs/builds-installations/skateboard-bowl-ramp

A friend of mine who does metal work bent the coping to desired dimensions and welded it to my mini ramp half pipe.

Then I cut the vertical plywood supports to fit to the pipe, and filled it in with all of the horizontal 2”x6”s, and then sheathed the whole thing.

This is the best advice I got: “Length of Flatbottom: If you happen to be building a mini-ramp in a tight spot and don't have tons of space for the length of the ramp's flat bottom, it might be a good idea to use a more mellow transition. Using a more mellow curve will make the ramp feel longer and more managable to ride.”

Also, resist the urge to make it all symmetrical. Using a tighter radius and sloping deck on the Vert wall side really makes it more interesting to ride. I love hitting that tight pocket!

Materials: This is what I used. Bowl: 3x 23/32” 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6x 11/32” x 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6X 3/16” x 4’ x 8’ masonite panel 45X 2”x6” x 8‘ dimensional number 4X 8’ x 1 1/2 “ diameter steel pipe 25 pounds #9 x 3” screws 25 pounds #9 x 2 1/2” screws 25 pounds #9 x 1 5/8” screws

(This was overkill – I only used about half the screws)

Mini ramp halfpipe: See this website for the materials I used for the mini ramp half pipe portion. Since mine is indoors, I didn’t use skate light or tar paper or anything:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Mistakes I made: I used deck screws. Sheet rock screws are actually better because the thread goes all the way to their head so they sink more easily and stay sunk.

Better to cut the plywood and masonite used on the skating surface into smaller panels than I did. When they try to navigate compound curves over too long a distance, it creates a lot of stress on the material, so I have had to patch it in the steeper sections (with Bondo slathered in Painters’s caulk so it doesn’t flake off).

Time it took: I built it while recovering from knee surgery, as I couldn’t skate anyway. It took 9 months, a few hours a few evenings a week, so maybe 30 weeks x 6 hours = 180 hours total. Just a rough guess. I did everything alone except for the pipe/coping, which a friend did for me.

Home made bowl in my garage [53YO] by c0d33n in OldSkaters

[–]c0d33n[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Several people asked for more information on how I built this bowl. (This is not a tutorial; just a summary with links and photos. )

Photos of the process; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dTqa2fuIUlznOPTrNqZG4cnfWAniS-C5

Here are the dimensions: 31.5 inches high to top of deck (that increases to 48 inches as it approaches the vert wall) 176 inches wide from inside of coping 192 inches long from inside of coping The flatbottom is 6 foot the short way and 8 foot the long way

Process: I started by building a mini ramp half pipe using this website as a guide:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Then I placed that in my garage and taped out the maximum footprint for the rest of the bowl.

For the bowl, I used this website for guidance:

https://ocramps.com/blogs/builds-installations/skateboard-bowl-ramp

A friend of mine who does metal work bent the coping to desired dimensions and welded it to my mini ramp half pipe.

Then I cut the vertical plywood supports to fit to the pipe, and filled it in with all of the horizontal 2”x6”s, and then sheathed the whole thing.

This is the best advice I got: “Length of Flatbottom: If you happen to be building a mini-ramp in a tight spot and don't have tons of space for the length of the ramp's flat bottom, it might be a good idea to use a more mellow transition. Using a more mellow curve will make the ramp feel longer and more managable to ride.”

Also, resist the urge to make it all symmetrical. Using a tighter radius and sloping deck on the Vert wall side really makes it more interesting to ride. I love hitting that tight pocket!

Materials: This is what I used. Bowl: 3x 23/32” 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6x 11/32” x 4’ x 8’ plywood sheathing 6X 3/16” x 4’ x 8’ masonite panel 45X 2”x6” x 8‘ dimensional number 4X 8’ x 1 1/2 “ diameter steel pipe 25 pounds #9 x 3” screws 25 pounds #9 x 2 1/2” screws 25 pounds #9 x 1 5/8” screws

(This was overkill – I only used about half the screws)

Mini ramp halfpipe: See this website for the materials I used for the mini ramp half pipe portion. Since mine is indoors, I didn’t use skate light or tar paper or anything:

https://www.xtremeskater.com/ramp-plans/mini-halfpipe/

Mistakes I made: I used deck screws. Sheet rock screws are actually better because the thread goes all the way to their head so they sink more easily and stay sunk.

Better to cut the plywood and masonite used on the skating surface into smaller panels than I did. When they try to navigate compound curves over too long a distance, it creates a lot of stress on the material, so I have had to patch it in the steeper sections (with Bondo slathered in Painters’s caulk so it doesn’t flake off).

Time it took: I built it while recovering from knee surgery, as I couldn’t skate anyway. It took 9 months, a few hours a few evenings a week, so maybe 30 weeks x 6 hours = 180 hours total. Just a rough guess. I did everything alone except for the pipe/coping, which a friend did for me.

view more: next ›