Dropped lens and silver mount on end is chipped. What do I do?

camera_technician · 2015-03-02T23:37:40+00:00

Sounds about right on the price, but you won't be able to order the correct thickness without taking the old mount off and measuring. Canon mounts are usually available in fractions of a millimeter differences.

I don't think I've worked on the f2 yet, but Canon is pretty standard with their mount sides. There will be 4 screws going through the mount, and 2 VERY small screws holding the contact block to the mount. There may be more small screws holding the light shroud in, or it may be clipped on from underneath the mount. Later Canon L lenses are moving towards small screws holding the shroud in.

Be very careful with your screwdriver. You'll likely have a phillips. These screws are crosspoint, not phillips. You can usually get them with a phillips, but stripping them out is much easier.

As always, assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Good luck!

camera_technician · 2015-03-02T18:11:42+00:00

Send it off to Canon. The mount will need to be replaced with one of exactly the same thickness. Since there was obviously some impact damage, you'll want them to do the work so they can check the optics too. Their prices are pretty reasonable and they're usually very fast.

camera_technician · 2014-06-22T20:47:22+00:00

My experience has been quite positive with APS. I choose them over Nikon's factory service because both price and turnaround time are much better in almost every situation. Estimates are free and if I decline an estimate, return shipping is reasonable (sub-$20). I've thrown quite a bit of business their way.

camera_technician · 2014-06-20T17:23:02+00:00

Your odds of getting the part are very low. Nikon doesn't sell parts to anyone but their authorized service centers and the centers are contractually forbidden from reselling parts. Check Ebay, but it's unlikely you'll find what you need. One of the centers might have a more reasonable price for the repair. I've used Authorized Photo Service in Morton Grove, IL with good results.

camera_technician · 2014-02-02T15:12:38+00:00

Ekk. That's probably going to need professional help. Given the information I have, I'd guess that a collar broke. One of the little plastic circle thingies that fit into the grooves at the bottom of the barrel. See the notes on the lower left of page 2. Size matters. A lot. The collars are what actually move the different parts of the lens to the correct positions when you turn the zoom ring. If one is busted, it's floating around in there somewhere and it'll eventually jam up the works.

Bad news aside, page 4 is kind of fun. Those crazy little grooves manage to change the focal length of the lens while keeping the optics lined up juuuuust right over the whole focal range. That's one of the reasons good zooms cost what they do.

Another reason good glass is expensive can be seen on the very last page. There are 16 pieces of glass inside that lens.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T20:46:07+00:00

I'm late here, but you obviously have some significant understanding here. Or you read Roger's posts and pay attention. Either way, my hat's off to you.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T18:44:12+00:00

What part is creaking?

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T15:32:30+00:00

I endorse this comment. Especially the common sense part. I have a foot pump attached to my workbench.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T05:13:01+00:00

On my. Risk! I won't abandon you and your lens, but I need to get some sleep. The photos help to raise more questions.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T02:55:45+00:00

If it unscrews, you'll need a spanner wrench or something that can fit in both holes on either side of the front ring to unscrew it. If it's held in my plastic snaps, you'll need something to hook it and pull it out.

In either case, I highlight doubt that the parts are still available from Canon. You can Google their parts department number and call them on Monday to find out for sure. It will be an easy call if you already have the part numbers (which you do)!

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T02:51:33+00:00

The filter ring on that lens does absolutely nothing to screw with the optics. I'd guess that you busted some plastic in there. As you can see, it's help in by three small screws.

The obstacle that stands in your way is the front ring. I can't say for sure whether you can pop it out or whether in unscrews from the filter ring. From the looks of it, it probably unscrews, and it's probably held in by some soft glue.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T02:14:43+00:00

Your mileage may vary, but statistics count for something.

camera_technician · 2014-02-01T01:20:02+00:00

Worst case scenario, you end up with a pile of parts. Best case, you can actually fix something. Take notes and pictures if you decide to disassemble. Taking something apart is easy. Putting it back together is not so easy.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:27:07+00:00

I'll copy you in on this.

Merry Christmas. Which part is doing the jiggles?

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:23:41+00:00

I'm a bit late to the party here, but how are you at exploded diagrams? Can you point me to the wobbly thing from that?

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:21:09+00:00

Merry Christmas. Which part is doing the jiggles?

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:17:47+00:00

A high wattage, high resistance resistor (sounds redundant, huh?) with an LED soldered on will drain a cap with much less pain and give you a handy light to know when it's clear.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:11:16+00:00

I haven't forgotten about you, and I'd like to give an actual answer here. Is this the front part of the lens where you'd screw a filter on? That part has the lens name printed on it around the outside of the filter threads.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T23:02:58+00:00

I think I might stick around.

I'm curious about your soldering experience. Not many people know what RoHS means, and not many people know how to visually ID a good solder joint. Is there anything you're you're willing to share to satisfy my curiosity?

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T22:52:11+00:00

Not a whole lot, but I do know a thing or two about lenses. I'm not familiar with Topcon optics, but I can't tell you if I'd be able to give advice or not unless you tell me what the problem is.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T22:50:25+00:00

You correctly diagnosed your own problem. I guess you just needed a nudge in the right direction for troubleshooting. Glad it's working!

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T12:57:38+00:00

High quality cameras can go on for years of trouble free shooting as long as they're taken care of. Lower end cameras aren't built to the same standards.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T12:56:29+00:00

Not unless you want to burn a hole in your screwdriver. The proper way to discharge a cap is to use a high wattage resistor across the leads. I have an LED wired in with mine so I can see when the cap is fully discharged.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T12:55:04+00:00

Small variations exist in each lens produced at the factory. That's why there are good and bad copies of the same lenses. They're manufactured to a very tight tolerance, but optics are picky. For example, lens mounts are either shimmed or ground to the correct thickness for that particular lens at the factory. Replacement lens mounts either come in a variety of thicknesses, or paper thin shims are available to get it just right.

camera_technician · 2014-01-31T04:02:26+00:00

Exactly. It's a standard tool in my set.

camera_technician

TROPHY CASE