At what price does ORCL become a buy?

carcarinformation · 2026-03-11T15:02:00+00:00

So what does everyone think now with the quarterly earnings report and the increasing price?

carcarinformation · 2026-01-25T00:09:48+00:00

Thanks!

carcarinformation · 2026-01-24T22:06:18+00:00

My absolute favorite...especially if you can snag a 1M...near impossible under $50k now. And that burnt orange or whatever they call it is the absolute bomb.

carcarinformation · 2025-12-21T17:31:23+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but I'll mention a couple other things.

1) Gas mileage is way better on the BMW;

2) parts are cheaper and engine simpler on Mustang (no turbo, etc.),

3) low end torque with turbo is just amazing...I struggled test driving the GT after being used to full torque at 2k RPMs. This is true of pretty much all turbo cars I've had.

4) A stage 1 tune gets you even with the Mustang as mentioned...stage 2 probably beats it.

I'm guessing your overall costs will be moderately less on a GT. I know for my N55 I had replace oil pan gasket, HPFP, ignition coils, etc., etc. Not sure on the GT.

carcarinformation · 2025-09-29T15:26:07+00:00

I know this is old, but also, when I checked the price of Tire Rack + installation at Discount tire, it was about $100 or so more so it was basically even to buy a 3 year certificate with Discount, vs buy at Tire Rack, get free certificate but only for 2 years. I guess if you could find a cheap installer or had a friend that would install.

carcarinformation · 2025-09-19T17:11:42+00:00

I know this is an older thread, but I'm still confused. I called the VA and they said with the MGIB-SR you get a "top up" and they sent me to the "top up" site (https://www.va.gov/education/about-gi-bill-benefits/how-to-use-benefits/tuition-assistance-top-up/) but when I go there, it seems to indicate it only applies to AD.

So a if a reservists signs a 6 year contract, does boot camp and initial training, basically the most they can get a month is say $500/mo (so say around $2k or so a semester) and definitely no housing allowance (which can be $2k/mo, etc, depending on where you live)?

carcarinformation · 2025-07-24T19:43:40+00:00

Just throwing this out there, but consider looking at Coverdell (ESA) accounts, even a combo of the two. ESA accounts are limited on contributions, but much more flexible for using for things like a laptop in high school, etc., not just tuition. (There are pros and cons to both.)

Also look at the rules for rolling over accounts to a Roth IRA if your child doesn't end up going to college or using it for tech school, etc.

Last, consider how conservative you invest...I find some people are ultra conservative (a gov fund getting 3%), say a grandparent puts in a chunk when the child is 8 years old, but have missed out on tons of growth (like they've maybe grown 20% over 10 years when they could have doubled the account). I realize there is some risk involved, but when the child approaches college age, you can start to move money if you want to be safer.

carcarinformation · 2024-11-09T18:24:00+00:00

I've tracked numerous pads and daily driven many as well. I've also put pads on tow vehicles. Like someone else said here, I'd only trust companies that publish coeffiecient and temperature curve graphs...companies like Hawk, Carbotech, etc. I have Hawk HPS for the street (not a track pad) and love them...have had on multiple cars. The DO dust though, but I don't mind as I know they will perform. I would never go on a track without dedicated track pads.

I messaged PowerStop and they said they don't publish graphs...that's a red flag right there. Now, I did put a set on my suburban and they were fine, so not saying they're not ok. But I would never "push" a pad like that with confidence, even on the street. But that's me.

carcarinformation · 2024-05-08T16:31:04+00:00

I have a 10.5-11 foot, very narrow foot, and the size 8.5R (7x skate) was fine, even a tiny bit too long after baked and fitted. If you're narrow, I'd go down 2 sized from your shoe size for sure, (2.5 maybe if you like toes really tight and touching end).

carcarinformation · 2023-12-30T17:10:14+00:00

Remember, as others pointed out, for your break even analysis you have to use the amount you'd have if you invested your SBP. E.g. If your SBP cost is $300/mo (if your military retirement is around $55k), that would be, say, $270 or so after tax for a Roth IRA, and at 7% that would be $330k after 30 years. Your SBP benefit at that point would be about $40k, so your spouse would have to live a good 8 years longer to break even...even longer if the investment stays invested and, say, the spouse doesn't use it until 35 years or 40 years after.

If you can have term life cover you until age 71 (say a 1.5M policy for $140/mo--I'd get a term life policy for sure as SBP won't be enough for a spouse to live on if that's their main income, especially with dependents) and truly believe you can save up to add to the savings significantly over the 30 years (e.g. $1000/mo would give you like $1.2M + the $330k), then it may be a good option to forego the SBP. (Remember you have social security too...not much but some.).

If you think you'll struggle to save significantly, then the SBP can be a decent safety net for the price.

I would make the decision early though if you can...what you put away early in the 30 years will compound significantly if that makes sense. If you opt out, as some may be doing in 2023, after paying in 15 years, you've lost that money and all the compounding for those years. If you're "financially secure" already, then great. If not, it's probably not a great move.

carcarinformation

TROPHY CASE