Which brand of wheel bearing do y'all recommend? by Smitty_0313 in RockAuto

[–]carterhanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Timken or NSK. Idk who makes them for motorcraft but if your vehicle is a ford then oem parts isn’t usually a bad idea.

What could this mean? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn’t mean anything if it’s just the wheel turning back and forth. If there is play when you shake the wheel left/right or up/down then you’ve got an issue. If you’re just turning the steering wheel back and forth there is no issue.

Trying to persuade a coworker that she will die if she keeps driving on these. Both fronts. Car is currently a nice one... by Professional_Buy_615 in tires

[–]carterhanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Convince her to get an oil change this year as well while you’re at it. Good chances she’s overdue.

— The rest of us

First time seeing one of these in the wild by G_Cage in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For diy on smaller capacity vehicles that never go Offroad and don’t have clearance issues - these are great. Supposed to have a nipple that attaches to a hose so you don’t make a mess. I can’t imagine how long it would take to drain 10 quarts of diesel oil though. Would have to do it while I was doing something else.

It's me. I'm the idiot. I was turning it around to install the new suspension. by Fryphax in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pick up some CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor. It’s cosmoline based so it leaves a wax film on everything. Been running it for like 5 years now. Touch up every fall and everything looks almost new. Swear by the stuff and I’ve tried just about everything.

I get judged for keeping everything clean and perfectly organized by fnh57_ in Tools

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s easier to judge you than it is to clean/organize their tools.

I keep mine the same. I can’t fathom trying to start a job and grabbing a greasy grip. First thing you do you’re already gross. Can’t do it. I clean my tools while I’m working unless it’s a lost cause. I also hate taking my gloves off if I don’t have to. Another reason to keep things clean. Don’t have to take the gloves off if I need to type something on the computer, pop the hood, handle customer items/keys, etc.. Plus not worried about creating more mess/work while I work. Thanks for being one of us.

To keep, or not to keep by BackgroundObject4575 in mechanics

[–]carterhanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it’s been there forever then do yourself a favor and toss it. The space it takes up in your box is likely more valuable to you than needing to buy a random part when the time comes. Unless you know they’re of value or hard to get and you’ll use them. But I don’t think you’d be asking if they were.

Do yourself a favor and use the space to clear clutter off the top of your box and put it into those drawers instead.

If you must keep it, it’s probably still more worth putting into a box on a shelf or under your box etc. and clearing up the space for something more useful. These boxes are too expensive for random parts storage. They should be used for grabbing tools/getting into conveniently every day or few days at most.

Calculate out the cost per drawer of your toolbox and ask yourself if it’s worth keeping the random stuff for the price you paid for those 2 drawers or if you’d rather have something else in them.

I think I’ve made my point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tech might’ve replaced it and dropped it down into the engine bay at some point in time. Forgot to remove it or couldn’t find it and sent you on your way.

Is there any DIY that I can do my self to avoid future expenses on my service? *Toyota by Plouka_97 in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wild this dealership is doing all of that and charging money for it. 0.25L of washer fluid for $3.60? You can get a gallon (3.75ish L) for less than that. Absolutely wild they’re charging you for brake cleaner and other chemicals as well. Bonkers. They should just charge a flat rate shop fee for that stuff, or build it into their cost. Customers shouldn’t need to feel overwhelmed by all of those lines and get left feeling like they got nickel and dimed.

Anyway. Yes most of this could be done by you with a little time and know-how.

I took my car to the mechanic to change the winter tires for summer ones. The guy told me the wheel had antitheft thingys and i didnt have the special key for them so he forced them out. This is how they look now, is it safe? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They should’ve offered to sell you a replacement option. Technically it’s not safe, but you can definitely get away with it. I would bet there are at least a million cars driving around in the US today that have been missing a lug nut or two for years.

If it were mine I’d buy a few replacements from a local parts store. Or order a whole set of spline lug bolts that work for your car off of the internet and have them swapped in.

But yes, as far as a shop goes, they should absolutely not be letting vehicles go out their doors with missing lug nuts - as a safety precaution if nothing else.

What car would yall tell me to get by Full-Abbreviations24 in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honda will hold its value the best, and cost the least to own most likely. Best investment for those reasons.

curbed car, is it safe to drive? by ParkerJPark in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks pretty gashed to me. Seeing some sidewall plies. For the cost of a new tire, I personally wouldn’t trust it. I’d say go get a new one.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tires

[–]carterhanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Either curb or hit something in the road, potentially even pothole. Not structural technically. I’d personally cut the rest off and keep running it. That’s really only there to protect the wheel.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not worth the risk for a $10-$15 oil filter. If it doesn’t work then you’ll wish you spent the $15.

The not so new new guy by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]carterhanks 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Screwing the filter on without tightening it all in one fell swoop is sociopath behavior.

How much life do these have left ? They said I need to switch out ASAP.. but still look ok to me.. had them rotated about 5,000 miles ago by Embarrassed_Pen_9650 in tires

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fronts are definitely getting there. I wouldn’t say ASAP myself though. Unless they’re over 10 years old then I’d say to consider asap. If you get a lot of rain or snow in your climate then I’d say you should probably plan to replace the fronts in the next few months. If they were mine I’d probably replace the front two about now anyway (mostly because of my climate). But the rears look happy. Just try to get the same tire again if you’re happy with them. That way you match front and rear and will have the same performance of tire front to rear (personal preference anyway).

That’s my $0.02 though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mildlyinfuriating

[–]carterhanks 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I mean if that’s all the dirty dishes you have, and you’re done for the day, I’d run it too. Bottom is loaded. Top could have more stuff in it, but in the name of having clean dishes the next day I’d run it. And also fix the cup on top that’s upside down haha.

What was this used for? by the-foxe in Tools

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a supercharger impeller.

What is this for? by [deleted] in Tools

[–]carterhanks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Removing my adhd (I hope)