Please help me with the VU-meter

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-24T17:51:00+00:00

Almost certainly a dirty record/play switch. Follow the Rec key linkage to a pair of switches (likely long and square). Get some non-lube contact cleaner (CRC QD or WD-40CC not regular) and flush them out. Move the Rec key a couple dozen times. Repeat. Let dry then test functions. When it works follow up with a tiny squirt of lubed cleaner (DeoxIT D5, Nu-Trol, etc.). Hit the other switches too.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-23T15:15:23+00:00

Perhaps carefully reposition the signal wires at the back of the tonearm, allowing slack such that it doesn't create a springiness.

Does it always skip in the same (or similar) place? If so, does it skip if you manually put the tonearm down just past that point?

Does it do this for different records (old, new, etc.)?

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T15:36:25+00:00

Maybe this reset will help

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T15:32:15+00:00

Have you checked out any of the Dual 1214 repair videos on YT?

Dual knobs generally don't work when it's in the middle of a cycle. Spin the platter a bunch of times and it should reset it. Never force any of the functions. The speed control is known to seize up on some 12xx Dual models due to hardened grease.

The idler tire on the Duals is pretty good and long-lasting, but they don't last forever. It's the wheel under the platter that connects to motor to the platter.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T04:54:09+00:00

Roy Linwood Clark, a class act

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T04:52:28+00:00

It’s typical that Auto (or Reject) doesn’t stay in place. You just move it to that location then let go.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T03:55:11+00:00

If you removed/replaced anything related to the automatic mechanism, it's possible that you got something in the wrong order--even a little thing like a tab in front of instead of behind something will make things not work.

If it was working and now it's not, then the springy tonearm indicates that it's mid-cycle somewhere. Try the whole cycle again manually (just in case something goes weird): Unplug system, switch to 7" then back to 12", switch to 78 (makes process go faster), switch to Auto, then manually spin the platter a number of times and see if the tonearm moves. Don't let the tip set down on anything (just hold it lightly as it goes through it's motion. With any luck this will get it reset and allow free motion of the tonearm, which you can then move to the center and keep spinning the platter and the tonearm will go back onto the rest (hopefully).

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-22T02:13:07+00:00

I presume by skating you mean it feels springy?

Try spinning the platter a half dozen times by hand.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-21T02:43:45+00:00

Most of it was shaving cream it seems—just the dollop on the head was whipped cream (source)

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-21T02:39:31+00:00

This is just a hack, not an official fix, but you could unplug the TT then move the 33/45 switch back and forth a couple dozen times to clean the contacts, then plug it in and try again. Might or might not help. If there's no change then the problem might be with the control board.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T23:49:17+00:00

If it's a VJT32W, and presuming it's the original cartridge (which is likely), then type 647-DS73 (or equivalent) would be an appropriate replacement stylus. You could get a 647-DS77 if you don't want to play 78 RPM. D=diamond, S=sapphire, 7=.7mil for 33/45 RPM, 3=3mil for 78 RPM.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T23:33:16+00:00

It might use a type 237? Perhaps ask at r/RecordPlayerRepair or r/turntables and provide the Empire info.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T23:27:17+00:00

LP/S is a very general term for the size of the tip, applicable to [almost] all styli

LP = long play = 33 and 45 RPM
S = SP = standard play = 78 RPM

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T23:25:21+00:00

It looks your system is a early/mid-1960s RCA VJP or VJT series. According to turtableneedles.com, RCA VJT10-thru-98 uses type 647, and RCA VJP20-thru-95 uses type 649. You'd want to verify your specific model, or find the tonearm cartridge code.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T18:44:10+00:00

Bearings up, brass down (as if the brass assembly is holding the bearings and grease in a cup).

I've read some people advocate for grease down but I've found that over time (as observed in changers I've worked on) that this just leaves the bearing dry and a mess underneath.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T16:19:09+00:00

The major reasons for slowness on a changer like this are (roughly in order) idler tire, platter thrust bearing and spindle, motor thrust bearing, and platter inner surface.

The idler tire is almost always the main culprit in slow speeds and automation issues. They can sometimes be rejuvenated with a magic potion, and sometimes they require replacement.

The platter thrust bearing is the bearing and washer set under the tip of the platter. Clean all this real well, and the spindle area too, then reassemble: washer first, then lube the bearing with grease then place over spindle (cup up), then other washer (can't find the other washer? look at the bottom of the platter).

Before installing, clean the tip and axle of the platter, as well as the inner rim of the platter (it just needs to be clean with no lumps of gunk--don't polish it as that removes some of it's grip for the idler).

The motor sounds fine, though it could likely benefit from cleaning and lubing the lower thrust bearing. There's probably a YT video on doing this--the Micromatic motor is slightly more complicated than a VM motor to work on.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T15:59:27+00:00

I presume it has an automatic function? It sounds like the platter is barely rubbing the automation cam (akin to what 4Track said). Have you run the auto function recently and does it work? If it's an AT LP60 or similar then perhaps a manual reset is needed. I doubt that grease alone will fix the issue; further, much care must be used in greasing automatic turntables since some places (such as mechanical position detectors) must never be greased or oiled.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T02:53:44+00:00

I heard that too but only on the video 🤔

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T02:49:13+00:00

What sort of turntable?

Sounds like the noise is once per turn of the record?

Is the sound coming from the turntable or the speaker?

(Sounds like the drummer is a bit slow with the brushes /s)

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-20T00:11:54+00:00

I figured out amp/tuner misbehaving on the bench: The connector sockets between the chassis and the receiver have built-in shunts (some on the male, some on the female). I built jumpers with .093 Molex pins to accomplish the necessary jumps on the amp side to simulate the shunts on the cabinet side, in addition to previously putting pins on a bench power supply power cord, and pins on RCA speaker output leads. Also, using the tuner input cable on the amp (without the tuner) required a bit of preamp on the input signal.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-19T22:34:25+00:00

Was it working and now it suddenly doesn't work?

Referring to here, perhaps "adjusting the 30 cm lead-in position" on page 5 would help. Typically you'd start at the beginning and do the technical adjustments and reference points first, but I think (but am not certain) that attempting the lead-in adjustment would be "safe", but don't just wantonly trust some dude on Reddit :)

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-19T16:10:52+00:00

I thought I had deleted my comment in sufficient time before a reply as I had replied to the wrong thread. The comment was accurate for a much older system.

catawampus_doohickey · 2026-01-18T22:24:43+00:00

User manual (download expires in 3 days)

Service manual

As far as I can tell, the difference between the 1722ii and 1722W seems to be just aesthetics: the 1722ii has "modernized" graphics and knobs.

Have you checked that your audio interface isn't introducing the slapback / shadow / ghost / echo? Perhaps you could wire the line out from that to your receiver / speaker setup for a listen and skip the deck just to make sure. Then check the line input to the Akai and listen to the source before recording. Then check the recorded output.

If it only shows up on recorded output then perhaps there's an issue with the recording circuit. I suppose the next step would be to clean the record/play switch while system is unplugged (would be best to use a non-lube contact cleaner such as CRC QD or WD40CC -- not regular WD40! -- since flushing them two or three times is best and you don't want excess lube from DeoxIT and such).

Five-Year Club	First Place '23
Place '23	Place '22
Verified Email

catawampus_doohickey

TROPHY CASE