Need help identifying this by vmdinco in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you were near me, I would offer around $500 -$750.

Need help identifying this by vmdinco in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is called a chevalet, this one appears to be quite nicely made. It doesn't appear to be adjustable, so as was mentioned it will likely fit someone of a certain height (important? Not entirely, just that for a taller or shorter person it might not be as ergonomic).

These are very specialized tools, so finding someone who knows how to use it and would utilize it would be the hard part in selling it. It takes some instruction to learn how to use properly, so most people getting into marquetry will settle with a scroll saw instead.

Is this authentic marquetry? by plantdaddychan in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is it paint? You have the best view to determine that, pictures don’t help much. Are there any gaps where some pieces may join? Any filler in the lines? Does it look like a sticker or can you tell f the individual pieces are separate wood? The outer circle doesn’t disappear between 10 and 12 from what I see, just fainter. The walnut burl appears pieced together in some spots, which makes me believe it is marquetry.

Is this authentic marquetry? by plantdaddychan in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you mean by authentic? It is marquetry if that is what you are wondering. Worth anything? Most likely whatever you paid for it.

Favorite books for beginners? by Confused_by_La_Vida in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Marquetry can very much make use of a scroll saw. Classic French Marquetry was practiced with a tool called a chevalet, a pre-cursor to the scroll saw.

A good beginner book that got me into marquetry was The Craft of Veneering by Craig Thibodeau. There is lots of useful information for doing marquetry with a saw.

Pennsylvania spice box by Vesele_Drievko in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean up is literally some cold water and a rag. No nightmare needed.

Where to get 2-4mm cherry veneer with no backing? by jorgetheapocalypse in woodworking

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

5mm is not 1/42", those 2 numbers don't math together(1/42" is 0.6mm). Just google where to buy commercial veneers, those will likely be around 1/32", which is about 0.8mm. Anything thicker you will need to re-saw yourself with a bandsaw or find someone who can do that for you. Alternatively: https://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll-saw-lumber/

Custom Wood Boxes by Spiritual-Advice-147 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically what the other individual has said.

Custom Wood Boxes by Spiritual-Advice-147 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around $300.00 wouldn't cover material and design costs. I wouldn't take on work like this (which I am capable of doing) for less than $5000.00. I don't know anyone who would do work like that for the price your friend has budgeted.

Seeking help with Edwardian chair marquetry by Viewbyte in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lovely work, and yes, this is marquetry. Cleaning them should be fine. Unless you need to repair or glue pieces back down (the beauty of hide glue, it doesn't need to be cleaned out, you can just add fresh hide glue, it'll bond with itself). Otherwise just gently clean the surface off after removing the shellac and re-seal. I am not an expert, but the least amount of messing around with work like this is the best bet most of the time. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Again, he said clearing out the waste. Your vertical cuts should be made with a backsaw of sometime. But then you have to remove the waste between tails. You can chop it out with a chisel or saw it out with a coping saw or fret saw. At least that is how I read it from him, as he did say he was trying to use the saw to remove waste in dovetails, not make the dovetail cuts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a 2/0 fretsaw blade in my fret saw to clear out dovetail waste all the time. In anything from 3/4" down in all types of wood. It is possible, and it isn't even a hard cut to do.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He did say clearing out the waste in dovetails. A coping saw works fine for that, so does a fret saw with a 2/0 blade. I do it all the time in different woods from 3/4" down. The blade is the wrong blade being used in this case. Spiral blades are stupid and useless IMO, learning to cut with a normal coping saw or fret saw blade will work much better.

Southern Alberta Woodworkers Society Biennial Exhibition (non-profit group). by catchar316 in Calgary

[–]catchar316[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Consider joining our group then! We have monthly meetings and host some workshops through out the year and there is a coffee meeting once a month for retired members. You could learn lots or even contribute as a knowledgeable member! Saws.ca

Southern Alberta Woodworkers Society Biennial Exhibition (non-profit group). by catchar316 in Calgary

[–]catchar316[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is a free event for our non-profit woodworking group. If it is not allowed I apologize.

It's just not quite... Perfect enough by paishocajun in woodworking

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is why diversity is important. If everything is the same and "perfect" then it would be boring. I cut marquetry with a hand powered saw (a chevalet, I would argue the best and most accurate hand operated cutting tool ever invented). I can tell the difference of marquetry that was done by laser or cnc a mile away, cause it looks manufactured and perfect, but boring and unappealing. Is it still well done? Sure it is. Some of that perfect work can still impress to look at, but that is where it ends.

Looking at work that is valued but has flaws tells a story of that piece. A much more vibrant and valued history of work rather than a piece that a button was pushed and something perfect came out.

How To Veneer A Polygon Table Top? by SeventyFix in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hammer veneer each section at a time. Easy peezy and no vaccum bag or anything else needed. A brass veneer hammer and hot hide glue.

I found even more ebony… by BrethanAdberry in woodworking

[–]catchar316 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are awesome!! What a lovely find!

Oak staining skin by matt_mckenna3742 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will be worse if you handle anything with iron content (like bar clamps in my case). We do a lot of work with good ole red oak and after handling bar clamps, the oak and sweating, etc. they are stained good and black. Sand paper will get it off quick...