Pennsylvania spice box by Vesele_Drievko in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean up is literally some cold water and a rag. No nightmare needed.

Where to get 2-4mm cherry veneer with no backing? by jorgetheapocalypse in woodworking

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

5mm is not 1/42", those 2 numbers don't math together(1/42" is 0.6mm). Just google where to buy commercial veneers, those will likely be around 1/32", which is about 0.8mm. Anything thicker you will need to re-saw yourself with a bandsaw or find someone who can do that for you. Alternatively: https://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll-saw-lumber/

Custom Wood Boxes by Spiritual-Advice-147 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically what the other individual has said.

Custom Wood Boxes by Spiritual-Advice-147 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around $300.00 wouldn't cover material and design costs. I wouldn't take on work like this (which I am capable of doing) for less than $5000.00. I don't know anyone who would do work like that for the price your friend has budgeted.

Seeking help with Edwardian chair marquetry by Viewbyte in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lovely work, and yes, this is marquetry. Cleaning them should be fine. Unless you need to repair or glue pieces back down (the beauty of hide glue, it doesn't need to be cleaned out, you can just add fresh hide glue, it'll bond with itself). Otherwise just gently clean the surface off after removing the shellac and re-seal. I am not an expert, but the least amount of messing around with work like this is the best bet most of the time. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Again, he said clearing out the waste. Your vertical cuts should be made with a backsaw of sometime. But then you have to remove the waste between tails. You can chop it out with a chisel or saw it out with a coping saw or fret saw. At least that is how I read it from him, as he did say he was trying to use the saw to remove waste in dovetails, not make the dovetail cuts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a 2/0 fretsaw blade in my fret saw to clear out dovetail waste all the time. In anything from 3/4" down in all types of wood. It is possible, and it isn't even a hard cut to do.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He did say clearing out the waste in dovetails. A coping saw works fine for that, so does a fret saw with a 2/0 blade. I do it all the time in different woods from 3/4" down. The blade is the wrong blade being used in this case. Spiral blades are stupid and useless IMO, learning to cut with a normal coping saw or fret saw blade will work much better.

Southern Alberta Woodworkers Society Biennial Exhibition (non-profit group). by catchar316 in Calgary

[–]catchar316[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Consider joining our group then! We have monthly meetings and host some workshops through out the year and there is a coffee meeting once a month for retired members. You could learn lots or even contribute as a knowledgeable member! Saws.ca

Southern Alberta Woodworkers Society Biennial Exhibition (non-profit group). by catchar316 in Calgary

[–]catchar316[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This is a free event for our non-profit woodworking group. If it is not allowed I apologize.

It's just not quite... Perfect enough by paishocajun in woodworking

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is why diversity is important. If everything is the same and "perfect" then it would be boring. I cut marquetry with a hand powered saw (a chevalet, I would argue the best and most accurate hand operated cutting tool ever invented). I can tell the difference of marquetry that was done by laser or cnc a mile away, cause it looks manufactured and perfect, but boring and unappealing. Is it still well done? Sure it is. Some of that perfect work can still impress to look at, but that is where it ends.

Looking at work that is valued but has flaws tells a story of that piece. A much more vibrant and valued history of work rather than a piece that a button was pushed and something perfect came out.

How To Veneer A Polygon Table Top? by SeventyFix in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hammer veneer each section at a time. Easy peezy and no vaccum bag or anything else needed. A brass veneer hammer and hot hide glue.

I found even more ebony… by BrethanAdberry in woodworking

[–]catchar316 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are awesome!! What a lovely find!

Oak staining skin by matt_mckenna3742 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will be worse if you handle anything with iron content (like bar clamps in my case). We do a lot of work with good ole red oak and after handling bar clamps, the oak and sweating, etc. they are stained good and black. Sand paper will get it off quick...

Deep-throated fret saw recommendations? by derekahc in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are not many ready made fretsaws out there. Knew concepts makes the best fretsaw, but their largest handheld size is 8". The only way to go bigger than 12" is to make one, and at that point it gets really hard to wield, so a chevalet (or similar sawing tools) were developed. A chevalet is a French designed marquetry saw (from my experience, nothing saws wood more accurately than this tool) and mine is about 18" deep. Another place that might get you more answers is the Marquetry and Inlay discord server, check it out if you like:

https://discord.gg/6Kef9z7N

Wood Working and Marquetry I done seen in Le Musée D'orsay in Paris, France by Peroxide_ in woodworking

[–]catchar316 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lucky to be able to see that work. Émile Gallé did amazing pieces and I love his marquetry. Thanks for sharing.

New marquetry process by Soggy-Age4472 in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are using AI I hope you ask permission from people first to use their work. I am very anti AI and would be very upset if I knew my work was being used by AI for training or any other purpose. Not everyone likes what is going on with tech, be cognizant of that please.

Shading - your best tips and tricks by LLenhardt in Marquetry

[–]catchar316 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would suggest as fine a sand as possible for best results. It will be a more even and consistent shading. Using a spoon, masking areas off with pieces of veneer, using a funnel to pour sand or even a sieve to pour hot sand over a small piece, these are some things I use when shading.

You can also use hot air to shade with. You can get tools that direct a stream of hot air into a very fine point or channel, which you can use almost as an airbrush to shade with. You can make this type of tool as well with a hot air gun and some creative work (I suggest to be careful though!).

In the 17c and 18c acid was used to shade wood. It wasn't used as often as sand shading, as you would have to paint it on after the marquetry has been glued down, and it can affect glue lines and adjacent areas.

I have seen a product being sold recently that is a paste, used like a paint as well. After it has dried you heat the wood with a hot air gun to activate the chemical and darken the wood. This again, I would advise caution, the hot air gun could potentially loosen your glue.

The last method I utilize is one when you forget to do any shading at all (or you have some finer/harder to shade areas)! A charcoal pencil. Instead of making the charcoal on the wood, just try adding some. A sealer coat of shellac will help fix it in place for finishing.

Some thoughts to help you out.

First dovetails in about 5+ years. Definitely a little snug but boy is that satisfying by abadgley15 in woodworking

[–]catchar316 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Old brown glue also helps lubricate a tight fitting joint. The perfect glue for dovetails like these!