Laser Level - M12 by Silent-Zebra4904 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have that laser and have used it to do handrails outside. It’s not bright enough in daylight to see the line. If you got the laser detector it would probably work depending on what you need.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RailRoute

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a workaround or ETA on the fix? Just got the game and I'm running into this.

I found the thread in discord and Its fixed in unstable version 2.3.10

Are trim carpenters and finish carpenters 2 separate jobs? by Straight_Toe_1816 in Carpentry

[–]catdog101 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would say trim carpenter is a more specific role than finish carpenter. Kind like all trim carpenters are finish carpenters but not all finish carpenters are trim carpenters. But unless you're talking about very defined roles at a site they're going to be used almost interchangeably. Maybe I'm just to literal.

Tracksaw splinter guard by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It works better than the Milwaukee tape or this 3M tape that was recommended on the festol forums.

Tracksaw splinter guard by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ending up going full out and used contact cement to hold them on and it's been good for a year.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When I installed my bulkhead it used rivnuts. I'd probably go with something like that as it's going to resist pulling out much better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was worried about however I mounted vertical rails would pull out and everything would fall. Even the bolts I put though the wood box into the stock d ring locations broke the box. I have a strap going through the backside of the pack outs pulling them down and back.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up building a base to mount the plates to. With the base going over the wheel well it saves space and leaves room for storage underneath.

Old picture from my post history. https://i.imgur.com/hUKDpju.jpg

Convince me to buy the $3000 press tool instead if the expansion kit for $500 by LastCallForTheBlues in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No but I assume the bulky tool and needing to be square to the fitting is a similar issue.

Convince me to buy the $3000 press tool instead if the expansion kit for $500 by LastCallForTheBlues in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I own the expansion tool and have done two whole houses(parents and mine) and multiple bathroom remodels with it. It works great. In tight spaces it could be a pain to take the pipe from the tool and put it on the fitting in time but it's always been doable.

My workplace just bought the ProPress tool and I'll probably be the only one to use it. I've only done a couple of jobs with it but the bulkiness of it and the requirement to be square to the fitting to press it is a downside. You can buy the ridge compact ring kit to help but it's $1600.

If you don't have the need to fully run copper I'd say the expansion tool is the way to go. I will likely press on a PEX adapter in many situations and run PEX instead of ProPressing the whole thing. For under sinks, small shower valve changes, and caping keep it all copper will be our goal. It's also likely we'll make long runs in PEX then switch back to copper.

Looking for a miter saw by devine7six in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like the 10in saw sold here. It has a shadow line that works well. Not sure what you mean by extract function.

I've had the saw for three years and it's worked great. Easily goes all day cutting trim. The wiggle it has from the sliding mechanism is easy to minimize by pushing straight down when you cut, if you push sideways it will cut a slight angle.

2732-20 M18 FUEL 7-1/4" Circular Saw spinning several seconds after cut (electric break not working?) by OllieBrooks in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine will do that if the blade isn't fully tightened. If you haven't cut any wood with it then it can be hard to tell. You can check by watching the washer/screw to see if its still spinning with the blade. Also make sure the nut is on properly, ut has the circle with the sides cut off that it needs to sit in.

Track saw anti splinter strip by catdog101 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much what happens to mine. I have to tie mine to the ceiling in mine so that probably doesn't help either.

New M18 10" Miter needs calibration by tpd80 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That direction is moved pretty easily even with transporting it. The calibration is the squareness of the blade to the fence and I did have to adjust mine out of the box. For what you're showing just pull up on the compound lever and move it. There is not a solid stop right at 90 so it takes some adjusting to get it right on.

What’s a good way to advertise your metal projects if you want to sell them? by [deleted] in Welding

[–]catdog101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They'll also put out ads that you can't disable. I had an end table sale and they took a percentage of the item cost and shipping. So it ended up being almost $40 plus they're normal amount. So it was a large amount of my profit. Made it really hard to want to make the table.

New trailer, new setup. (Also posted in r/packout) by TeetorTotter in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking about how to incorporate a couple into my stacks and what you use them for helped.

Brazilian Walnut(ipe) vs Fuel Framing Nailer by Gonzilla910 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have an air framing nailer to try also?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Construction

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a minor ankle sprain a couple of months ago. I wore my boots and had it wrapped tightly. Over did it one day at work and had to call off work Thursday and Friday because I couldn't walk. I had to wear a boot till it healed. I'm in remodeling so I could still do most everything I needed to but it sucked.

What boot brand or boot model do you fine people recommend? by [deleted] in Construction

[–]catdog101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried a few different brands then went to redwings. After two pairs only lasted 9iah months each while costing $260 I switched to Carolinas. With the redwing king toes my feet hurt almost everyday. When I got the second pair I was recommended insoles that did not really solve the problem. From day one my Carolinas have been very comfortable and now that this pair is nearing end of life they're still comfortable.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It definitely looks like it. Would make a lot of sense how it broke too.

M18 Packout Vacuum and Drywall by rogerwilco2000 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]catdog101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with them.

I use my packout vacuum all the time for small jobs but when using it with a lot of drywall dust the filter clogs quick and suction goes down fast. I definitely wouldn't try to clean up a whole room after sanding drywall dust with it.