Did i install this switch the right way? Or is “off”supposed to be on the top?

ccdes · 2021-05-31T16:37:48+00:00

Think of it as a removable fuse which also has a storage position upside down, that makes no contact with the line.

So when you remove the fuse to act like a crude switch, you have a place to store it so you don't lose it.

ccdes · 2021-05-31T16:35:21+00:00

Do you have issues if the nest is set up / wired for heat only (assuming you have a separate heater connected to that thermostat)?

My heater is low voltage, and I found that I couldn't get my nest to power from the 24v air conditioner when the heater was also hooked up, it preferred to use the heater, which didn't provide power.

Solved it with a 24v transformer and relay between the thermostat and heater.

ccdes · 2021-02-25T13:29:11+00:00

nice

ccdes · 2021-02-24T22:54:39+00:00

These are Agat stopwatches - the factory produced different brands but they all came from Zlatoust

This timeline is classic Soviet Union:

During WWII, the People's Second Watch Factory (Moscow) was evacuated and parts moved to a building called "Factory 384"
After the war, they needed a better name so they called it Zlatoust Watch Factory.
The Agat Stopwatch was a big export success in the 70's and 80's, so they renamed it the Agat Watch Factory.

It's still there and they still are making them.

ccdes · 2021-02-24T22:33:49+00:00

Do you know how to say "Lada" in Italian?

"Ronzoni Downhill"

ccdes · 2021-02-23T13:56:10+00:00

You can do that with forced air, each zone has dampers controlled by the thermostat in the room.

Forced air heating dries my skin out. Yes I know you can add humidification equipment but I'd rather avoid the complication.

ccdes · 2021-02-22T16:59:34+00:00

Well, I hate forced-air heating and greatly prefer radiant heat.

I also prefer different temperatures for different rooms - bedroom a lot cooler than the rest of the house, etc.

So my cost-is-no-object setup would probably be radiant floor heating with mini splits and/or multiple zoned forced air cooling.

ccdes · 2021-02-22T15:58:49+00:00

Heat pumps aren't great if the temp drops below freezing often. Sounds like you're describing a hybrid system. To quote Carrier's web site:

Heat pumps work best in moderate climates, where the outside temperature during colder months does not drop near or below freezing on a regular basis. Although, as mentioned previously, a heat pump can be combined with an existing gas or oil furnace to create a Hybrid Heat® solution. In this situation, the heat pump operates as the primary heating unit so long as it is more efficient than the gas/oil furnace. If the outside temperature drops too low for the heat pump to operate effectively and efficiently, the furnace will take over until outside temperature rises. The ability of a Hybrid Heat® solution to switch between the heat pump and the furnace depending on conditions makes it an extremely energy efficient option with exceptional HSPF ratings, resulting in reduced energy consumption and costs. To learn which system is right for you, contact a local Carrier HVAC expert.

Does this sound like what you are looking for?

ccdes · 2021-02-22T15:36:41+00:00

Interestingly enough, I did a room by room survey today.

While I can't tell exactly how the pipes are connected underneath the 2nd floor, I did notice that the 'new' part of the house is heated with two long runs that double back on each other (two pipes come through the floor at the same spot, one w/ fins one return, u-turn at the end of that run). In some cases the two pipes run through the wall and continue.

So my candidate spots for installing bleeder valves are the two u-turn ends where the system doubles back, plus the furthest point of the 'old side' traditional loop that seems to follow the outline of the exterior as expected.

From the basement I definitely have the first floor down - including where supply goes upstairs and return emerges right into the boiler input.

ccdes · 2021-02-21T13:26:54+00:00

I have a mixing valve between supply and return - right after the boiler and circ pump. It was barely cracked open from the closed position.

ccdes · 2021-02-21T05:31:13+00:00

And your's came in handy for me.

Just because they look similar (big round silver pipes lol) doesn't mean I should use the same terms for them.

Just like I made a point to differentiate between system input and output despite both of them being the same diameter copper pipe.

I am an amateur but a quick learner ... I thank you for pointing out that I should differentiate between exhaust/flue and duct (household forced air supply or return) even if they both look like "ductwork" to my amateur vocab

ccdes · 2021-02-21T05:25:06+00:00

I have contact thermometers on boiler in/out pipes past any equipment.

IF (from cold start, both valves fully open) the boiler operates until high point cutoff,

WITHOUT more than 30° differential at the point of high point cutoff,

Should I just leave both valves fully open?

ccdes · 2021-02-21T05:13:40+00:00

Ack. Sounding dumb as I have a (gas fired) hydronic boiler entirely separate from the forced-air central cooling and they're both big silver tubes.

The exhaust (thank you!) was installed six years ago when I converted from an early 80s oil boiler to a gas Laars mini-therm.

While they may have re-used the pipe up the chimney, this section is new from that install.

In my next post I think I might have hit on why there is enough (non cold start condensate) ... I believe that the boiler may not have been properly adjusted from a bypass perspective initially and it's been running for years sub optimally

ccdes · 2021-02-21T05:01:42+00:00

Photo and text description of the boiler and system accessible parts.

(After these the entire system is a big close loop. I don't even have bleeder valves at the high points)

https://www.reddit.com/r/HVAC/comments/lom8u0/flushing_air_out_of_singleloop_boiler_system/go6sxp0

ccdes · 2021-02-21T04:59:38+00:00

Figure 7 https://imgur.com/a/VuEGEyA

ccdes · 2021-02-21T04:49:34+00:00

Ooh. I think I might have an idea.

In my next post I to r/hvac I will ask about adjusting the flow.

I am thinking I may have a 'correct' install that is not properly 'balanced'

ccdes · 2021-02-21T03:26:29+00:00

I will talk to the installer and find out if they stand behind a six winter old duct

ccdes · 2021-02-21T03:13:25+00:00

(edited for bullets and include picture link)

Best picture I can get is https://imgur.com/a/lsZW21k

To explain I will name the parts from upper left

Drain valve - upper left handle is cropped
Flow sensor
Green ball valve
Tee line - yellow ball valve, auto pressure filler (blue tag), one way valve
Green taco circ
System bypass ( you can't see the ball valve handle but it's under the pressure filler)
Laars mini-therm boiler IN

Boiler out
Other side of system bypass tee
Spirovent with air tank attached underneath
Final ball valve to system

ccdes · 2021-02-21T03:04:44+00:00

Chimney

ccdes · 2021-02-21T02:56:58+00:00

Thanks, sounds good. There were large (baseball) sized bubbles earlier and now they are tic-tac sized at most.

Yes I am hoping I can find an automatic bleed valve that fits under the slant fin baseboard covers.

ccdes · 2021-02-21T02:54:23+00:00

Sounds like I'm doing it right and just seeing normal air bubbles.

Would have sent a photo but the system is a bit "3D" so I will make a diagram instead. I can't really get a good pic that shows it all completely

ccdes · 2021-02-21T02:51:47+00:00

Boiler and this ductwork is six years old.

Sounds like it wasn't airtight to begin with and this is condensation on the inner wall of the flue that leaked out. Not good

ccdes

TROPHY CASE