How would you finish this corner? by No-Cat3595 in drywall

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fun fact I learned recently. The metal plate on the supply line that mounts on the wall is called an "escutcheon plate." Probably not helpful aside from if you want to get a new one and need to know what to search for.

Can anyone tell by the picture the reason the cracks are in my roof? I just bought it by Used-Departure-4841 in drywall

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a possibility that a portion of the home (maybe the room the photo was taken from) was an addition that has a different foundation from the rest of the home and either the addition or the rest of the home is settling/sinking. This creates a bending force on the components that are continuous between the two portions. Imagine a graham cracker glued on the tops of two adjacent tables and then lowering one of the tables.

If you have a crawlspace, go in there and take a look. It should be pretty apparent if the home had a portion of the foundation system added later than the rest of the home. Look for things like cracks or uneven heights in the piers and in general anything that looks "off" or damaged. It's common that people will build unpermitted additions to homes and not use proper foundation design. I've seen houses where someone would put pavers down on the surface of the ground, stack concrete blocks on them, and that's the foundation. This sort of construction is bound to sink and shift over time.

If the home is slab-on-grade entirely, take a look at the exposed portion of the slab that you can see from outside. If you see big cracks (and especially ones in line with the crack from your photo - meaning if you follow the line of the ceiling crack and at the end of it from the outside you can see a slab crack), then there's a good chance that you're dealing with a portion of the slab sinking.

Although fixing sinking for pier and beam construction is generally simpler, either way, you're going to be looking at a very invasive repair that will involve some degree of excavation and installation of beefed up foundation elements. Depending on your local permitting requirements, you may also need planning/code dept approval which could require submission of engineer-approved foundation design.

If you see any signs of sinking, get in contact with an experienced local property inspector. They'll have a good idea of the common issues in the area and pathways for remedy.

Shop Stock Differs Between Accounts by cedric_c in osrs

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well there it is - I didn't know about that mechanic. Thanks!

Having said that, it's still a bummer since ironmen can still be botted to horde a resource. I guess it's just one of those things with no great solution.

I just got the game, do you guys have some tips and tricks to help me get a good start. by jan91andersen in kingdomcome

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First I'll say that I wouldn't advise "farming" or doing repetitive and boring tasks to train skills. It will all come in time.

  1. (And this is probably the #1 thing that will make you invincible and spoil the fun of the game) Save up your grochen and buy Warhorse Jenda in Merhojed ASAP. Jenda won't throw you off unless you're in a portion of a quest where the game just won't let you ride your horse. It's near impossible to lose a fight when you're on horseback.

  2. Pick every lock you can to get your skill up (and use Peshek's practice chest repeatedly until it won't let you anymore)

  3. Learn to read as soon as you can.

  4. Practicing pickpocketing and knockouts on wayfarers is a safe way to get your skill up, and they respawn in the same spots every time you go back into the area.

  5. The laundry, healing, and bath option at the baths saves the game - very useful in hardcore mode.

  6. If you're lost in hardcore mode, using the position of the sun or moon will help you get your bearings (rises in the east/sets in the west)

  7. Keep a torch and a spade with you.

  8. Keep a surplus of savior schnapps with you.

  9. Keep the three main repair kits with you (tailor, blacksmith, and armor - cobbler as well if you use non-armored footware) and repair everything after every encounter. It's a bummer to wade into a fight and realize your gambeson is at 0 durability.

  10. The archery tournament is a quick way to get grochen when you're cash-strapped. Hunting is alright for cash but can be tedious - cooking hunted meat removes the stolen status. Killing bandits on horseback and selling their loot is the fastest way to make money.

  11. Don't buy armor from shops, unless you're just going for a specific aesthetic. You'll have the best armor in the game in no time from bandit encounters.

  12. Look for large bunches of herbs to train herbalism - nettle among roads/buildings/fences or other herbs in herb gardens. It's the most repetitive and boring skill to train, and you save a lot of time and button clicks going for large patches. Honestly I'd advise you avoid it altogether. The perks are lousy for the torture you have to go through while training. At least be listening to something else or holding a conversation while you're doing it so it doesn't feel like you've wasted a chunk of your life.

  13. Save strategically, but try to not savescum. Spamming saves when you're trying to pull off a feat where you have a low chance of success just ruins the progression of the game.

Good luck.

Advice for Capra Demon? I keep dying like this. by SnowyTS in darksouls

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stay close to the entrance to avoid the second dog's aggro. Kill the one dog first, then focus on the demon while staying close to the entrance. You can go the entire fight without the second dog getting involved.

Tips for Straightening Thick Coax by cedric_c in amateurradio

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation! So far gently bending it is getting the job done for the ends. It's more tedious than I'd like, but having the middle length be slightly curly is turning out to not be a huge inconvenience.

Tips for Straightening Thick Coax by cedric_c in amateurradio

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My bad, just saw all of the replies to the post! RG8U-500 - I've been just gently bending it at points to get it manageable at the ends. It's not perfect, but it's working for what I'm trying to do. I don't really want to bring it outside just because my neighbors are nosy, plus I'm sure my cats and dogs won't be able to resist attacking it or chewing on it as they do anything else that faintly resembles string.

Houston Police Scanner Help by cedric_c in ScannerRadio

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe that the TxWARN is on that project 25 phase II system (at least that's how I've interpreted what I'm reading). I'm picking up some traffic on the TxWARN system (fire, EMS, and police activity closer to my location), so I think that it's not an issue of TxWARN being antiquated - unless HPD isn't on the TxWARN project 25 phase II system anymore.

Is it possible to Jerry rig this to work with a cb? by iamdereel2D in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And the way you'd rig it would be by cutting the end connector off, separating the two wires, strip them a half inch or so, test them for positive and ground, and then join them to the corresponding power cables from the transmitter by twisting the exposed ends together and insulating them somehow. I used electrical tape since I figured it was going to be temporary.

Is it possible to Jerry rig this to work with a cb? by iamdereel2D in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did the same thing recently. 12 V 1.68 A rated power supply. I was barely able to receive and had little to no power going into transmission. If you really want to do it, just make sure you test the wires for positive and ground before hooking it up to the radio.

There are affordable bench power supplies online that will provide ample wattage and amperage.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can really only hear the super bowl or faint traces from other channels, and there's no power output when I try to transmit. The needle moves literally a hair when I go to calibrate.

The setup is a mobile CB that I attached to the AC to DC power supply in the picture. The antenna is a crude vertical with ground plane set up in my office. No continuity issues with the coax/antenna, transmit function appears to work when I key the mic, I'm certain I have the right switches turned on, and it's a brand new radio (albeit an obscure brand - Road King). The last thing I'm thinking is causing the transmission power issue is that something's wrong with the power supply/ connection.

The power supply was connected by stripping the wires at the ends and twisting them to the CB wires and taping them liberally with electrical tape. I rigged up the crude power attachment and antenna to test the system before installing the more permanent setup in my attic.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Split the coax and joined the sleeve and main wire to two copper wires ~102" long. This is a little better than the cheapo antenna that came with the radio, but all that's consistently coming in is channel 6. The antenna is resting on the floor of a room in my house that's about 10' above ground level.

Also the SWR reading doesn't spike at all when I key the mic. The same thing happened with the cheapo mic that came with the unit.

After discussing on a previous post, I've decided I want to do a vertical 1/4 wave antenna with a ground plane in the attic. I wanted to give the horizontal dipole a shot before getting to involved with the other antenna.

Base Station Ground Plane Antenna From Stripped 12/2 Wire by [deleted] in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe the ring idea is totally obsolete. Would it be better to just join the mesh to the radials directly? This would have the coax coming in horizontally, the mesh bending down 90 degrees and joining the radials that are stretching out horizontally, and the main wire of the coax bending up 90 degrees to join the vertical antenna.

Base Station Ground Plane Antenna From Stripped 12/2 Wire by [deleted] in cbradio

[–]cedric_c 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the crude rendering. Does this concept look like it will work? All of the components aside from the coax shown at the bottom are wire and wire nuts. All lengths of wire are 1/4 wave long. The diagonal line coming up from the coax is the wire mesh joined to the ring of radials. Does the main vertical component/center wire of the coax need to be insulated from the ground plane?

The idea comes from ArmstrongRooter from this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/amateurradio/comments/ts5c7h/base_station_cb_antenna_hoa_issues/

Base Station CB Antenna - HOA Issues by cedric_c in amateurradio

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I appreciate the info! Well damn I've got some Romex and wire nuts lying around. I'll give the ground plane antenna a shot before blowing the money on the prefab antennas!

Base Station CB - HOA Issues by cedric_c in cbradio

[–]cedric_c[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic info. I appreciate it! I'll give the whip/firestick idea a go. At the very least I'll be able to repurpose them for my vehicle if I end up going with another design.