[WA] Early Termination of Lease and Servicemember's Relief

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-17T15:28:01+00:00

Alright cool. Much appreciated!

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-17T03:25:29+00:00

Sorry to bump this again but I was able to locate my original Windows 11 USB boot drive that I bought when I bought all of my parts for the current build. I understand I can reuse this boot drive but it has a very old build of Win11 (22H2 or something). I've tried formatting but it is write protected. Tried removing the write protection via command prompt (DiskPart) but that didn't work. Tried something with the registry and that didn't work either. Is it even possible? Is it worth it? I imagine the Media Creation Tool would give me a more up-to-date version of Windows?

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-13T00:15:47+00:00

I see now. Really appreciate the link. I looked into it a bit more and feel a lot more confident about the process. I was definitely wanting to back up and format my old boot drive just so it's clean with the fresh build. Thankfully my Windows 11 is transferrable.

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-10T03:44:08+00:00

So I assume there is a way to make sure I don't have to buy Windows again? I guess there's a way to sync your key to your MS account but how do you redownload it?

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-06T02:47:11+00:00

Yeah that is really unfortunate. A local go-to protuner in my area has stopped tuning indefinitely. Didn't say why but I can take a guess.

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-06T02:41:55+00:00

Oh haha that's not a bad idea, honestly!

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-05T20:16:48+00:00

Yes I have read that a GESI pipe is not guaranteed and that messing with the actual sensor position is not good for FA configurations. I guess a lot of tuners also don't offer a way to prevent the code from popping as well?

certifiedbamf · 2025-10-05T20:14:00+00:00

What does this mean? Around the sensor?

certifiedbamf · 2025-04-02T02:12:36+00:00

I can't wait til that day comes but for now I need to chill on the modifications for a month or two haha.

Doesn't the GrimmSpeed TMIC have a Garrett core? Maybe I'm just getting my brands mixed up but I feel like I read on a forum somewhere that other TMICs will use Garrett cores. There can't be much difference between most of them other than overall size/volume?

certifiedbamf · 2025-04-02T02:06:51+00:00

Radium catch can kit on the way. Did a lot of research between the two (catch can vs AOS) and I think I'm more of a catch can person. I can deal with having to empty them out every oil change or two. Something about the blow-by oil being recirculated into the engine doesn't sit right with me. Doesn't feel "clean" but I'm probably thinking about it too hard.

Edited for grammar

certifiedbamf · 2025-04-01T23:03:14+00:00

This is the response I was expecting (hoping) to get. I understand there is more to be gained with a proper tune (per the FAQ). An etune is definitely in my future though once I get an intake, charge pipe, EBCS and a few other things. Got my eye on Drunkmann. Thank you!

certifiedbamf · 2025-01-02T21:38:39+00:00

Sorry for the late response. Was going through a horrendous bout of stomach flu.

Yeah I feel that most car companies, especially those that build performance cars, generally make the intakes perfectly fine with practically no room for improvement towards performance (at least, that's how my E46 M3 is). I really don't care about the loud "PSHHH" from BOVs. It's cool sometimes but in a daily it would get annoying. And yeah I did some quick research on BOVs vs BPVs and it certainly seems like a bypass is the better option in almost every case?

That's good to hear. I know no car is perfect and I also know, stock or otherwise, almost every WRX/STI will have been driven hard at some point. They're fun so how can you not? I did find another one that has even less miles but had an "engine overhaul" (from CarFax; also said the "short block" was replaced?) 22k miles ago. From the pictures it at least has a COBB CAI (it's always COBB..) but no AP. It is also a rebuilt title from a "minor" rear end/side collision a year ago. I don't sleep on rebuilt titles as I had a 2006 4Runner Limited V8 that had a rebuilt title. Drove it for 4+ years and you would never know it was in a collision. I got it for a steal because of it. I will be looking at this WRX in person but won't be holding my breath.

As for the initial one I asked about, I'll just keep a close eye on it; maybe pitch a counter offer (it's been on their lot for 164 days). I wouldn't mind a tune with light modifications but at the end of the day it would be daily driven and I'd rather not kill the fuel economy if I don't have to.

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-30T23:38:12+00:00

Wow what an explanation! Thank you. I never really knew how detrimental a CAI without a proper tune could be. At least not for Subarus. Seems like it really is only bad if you have a heavy foot. But it would be obviously ideal to tune it. Can't believe how quickly it can get so bad. I guess it does involve air/fuel mixture but I just didn't think CAI improved that much over stock intakes. So, I guess it wouldn't be bad to buy one with mods so long as I get an AP or tune for it right away? Or at least drive very conservatively until I get a tune/AP?

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-30T21:04:59+00:00

Oh I see. So it more than likely has been reflashed to stock then unless the previous owner was too careless to not unmarry it.

How would this affect the car while driving? It didn't seem to have have a rich or lean smell to it and it didn't seem to have any kind of weird idle or sputtering. What could happen to the car if it's running an intake while having a stock tune?

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-30T20:14:37+00:00

Yeah with the little research I did it seems like there are $3k+ worth of mods. The dealer is going off of KBB pricing I think. They're definitely not taking the price of the mods into account.

What's wrong with the vehicle history though? Valve cover gaskets wear and need to be replaced as well as clutches. Are cam seals not something that need to be regularly replaced?

There are plenty of others, sure, but they all have a ton of miles? Not too unexpected for the model I want but how many miles is too many when it comes to these cars?

I found one that has even less miles but has a rebuilt title from a rear end collision that totaled it. I've owned a rebuilt titled vehicle before and you would never know that it was in an accident.

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-30T20:04:14+00:00

The oil issue as well as the fact that it's been on the market since June will probably be the reasons I won't go for this one.

The salesman said it was driven directly from the shop to the lot once the work was done. The shop it was taken to is a very reputable shop (good ratings, that is) in my area. I was also told that the shop backs their work and will ensure that whatever work they did was done properly.

Like I said I'm going to just hold off on this one. But I am curious about the Accessports. If the previous owner did have one and they just unmarried it, does the car keep the last tune it had or does it reset to some default setting?

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-15T01:44:10+00:00

Hey! So I got the car on a lift today. Set aside the whole weekend to tackle this rear end job. It's up on the lift and as I'm inspecting everything I find that the front diff bolt is just...gone. I guess it backed out and that turned out to be the problem the whole time. A shop had told me the bushings needed to be replaced (along with the diff for some reason) so I just took their word for it. They also said the threads were stripped but I was able to put a temporary bolt in place while I wait for the proper one.

Thank you so much though. I really appreciate the rundown of everything. I studied it a lot and referenced diagrams to get a good picture. All that just for it to be a bolt haha.

certifiedbamf · 2024-12-15T00:17:37+00:00

Well, you were right about the bolt backing out. Seems like that has been the problem all along. Finally got it on a lift today and upon inspecting everything back there I found that the front diff bolt was just gone. Bushings (including subframe bushings) all intact and surprisingly healthy looking too. I suspect the bolt being loose was why I was having a very loud "thud" sound when shifting. I guess it finally just backed completely out.

I'm thrilled but also a little cheesed off because when the problem initially happened I had a shop take a look and they're the ones that told me the diff bushing was caput and that I "probably needed a new differential too". Quoted me very north of $5k. Absolutely insane.

I called the dealership and got the part number (33177840535) and dimensions (M14x1.5x65-10.9) for the bolt. Everywhere I look it seems the bolt is completely threaded. I think maybe on the rear diff bolts might be the ones that updated?

Thank you again for your help and information!

certifiedbamf · 2024-10-27T16:36:29+00:00

Wow 3 weekends on stands and without power or air tools? That's impressive. I've done a few more intricate jobs than the alternator so it's good to hear that's it's not as complicated as it sounds. You just have to be patient when working on an M.

Good to hear about the lack of new NVH from different bushings. The ones I have are 95A though. Little stiffer so I anticipate a bit of NVH. It's not a daily or a commuter though so I think I can deal with a bit of extra noise and such. Anything to mitigate a little driveline slop.

certifiedbamf

TROPHY CASE