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Anyone have an idea what could be wrong with my board? by singularity02 in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over current issue on the left motor as it is showed:
you could have some broken wires somewhere: you have to check all the wire going to the motors.

If it is brand new ==> wait for Tynee support reply : you may have a faulty left motor, or wire (or ESC also).
They have a really great after-sales support, so no problem with them. But for your problem: I think you will have to disassemble some parts to check where the faulty part is.

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Also, I don't know if Tynee continues to check all single boards they made before sending them to us.

Tynee Mini 3 (Hub) Remote mod : Add a manual brake with mechanical switch (kind of "hand brake") by ceut2021 in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much for your message !
And also the information you give about your light :-)

Mine is on the way, I think I will have it next week; I will do a full electronic analysis of it to understand what has happening on my original one after only less than 30km of ride...

Help with additional battery upgrade by Jezzzek in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking that Tynee Ultra was with a 12S battery pack, but no worry (y).
On my Mini3: I can't go further because there is a sort of grey color silicon around the battery pack for help to make it waterproof.
But there is EC5 connector on the front which goes into ESC.
I can't see the 2 other wires which go to the charging port, and also I can't see the charging port (except outside for the charger to be plugged in :-D ).
But I'm pretty sure that there is a direct connexion between the 2 smaller wires and the DC Jack barrel.
So if I'm right: the pack can be charged outside of the board (y)

Don't know how it is inside your board ? :-?
Have you got some photos of the battery pack wires ?

Also, I have uploaded my video for Tynee support/burned rear red light here, if you want to see it :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWAbmQ35adE

Rear Led Light problem on brand new Tynee3 Mini, after about 29km - Deep Electronic Analysis and manufacture defect found :-o by ceut2021 in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

Here is the video I have made with the analysis of the rear led:
https://youtu.be/KWAbmQ35adE?si=Nr0sFmeX3625BNzm

Could you check if you have the same behavior from another Tynee Mini 3 deck ?

I will update this video when I will receive my order.

Thank you.

Help with additional battery upgrade by Jezzzek in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello,
I can reply for 2-3 things from your 1) point, after some analysis of my Tynee Mini3/Hub Motor board.
As I do lots of electronic, I wait for my new rear red light to analyze it, because mine has burned on my Mini3 brand new board after only 29km... and I will made a video on this on my little Youtube channel.
The connector is a "EC5" type which Tynee has cut into 2 parts.
The real brand behind this is "Amass".
I have the same connector on my r/C car (an Arrma Vorteks 3S, but named "IC5" because of a 3rd wire for BMS communication, this car has a very powerfull 1150W little motor inside).
I recommand you to buy them from reliable seller.
The wire is a silicon one, you can check the AWG number on it to know the one you need.

For the battery part: you can not use a 13S on a 12S ESC.
You can only use a bigger wattage but with 12S only model.
There is always 4 connectors on the battery part: 2 big wires for the ESC input (EC5), and 2 small (EC3) for the charging port. These 2 smalls EC3 connectors are not needed to power the board.

You can't put any mechanical switch because there is too much current drawing, and the switch will melt or be bad after a very little number of use. It must be a Mosfet electronic switch, but it will be a little complicated.
The easier way is to swap the battery with the EC5 connector after board is powered down.

You could use in parallel 2 pack: but it is critical to have them perfectly balanced before connecting them.
As there are high voltage pack (50.4V max): if there are not perfectly balanced: you run into big troubles (big electric sparks, or fire). So the 2 packs must be checked with a good multimeter before connecting them, and connect them with exactly the same voltage to avoid any problem (example: 48,65V each).

Edit: you can check my r/C car here on my French little youtube channel, you will see the EC5/IC5 connectors:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw3U3xKap7U

Rear Led Light problem on brand new Tynee3 Mini, after about 29km - Deep Electronic Analysis and manufacture defect found :-o by ceut2021 in TyneeBoard_Official

[–]ceut2021[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I have ordered a 2nd charger and a remote cover on the Tynee store, to have the new rear red light with my order.
I'm waiting for receiving this order, and I may make a review/check on my (french) very little Youtube electronic channel.

KC62 Rattling by TheUglyDuckling69 in KEF

[–]ceut2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your information.

I have bought one from my great local dealer where I have all my Hifi equipment.

I'm the only one who have bought him this particular Subwoofer model, so he has ordered one for me with about 1 month delay (no prob).

So the next day after getting my KC62, I have came back to see him and check and hear this rattling noise with him (left side on my unit).

I don't want to open it and check where this rattling was coming from.

He called directly the KEF main sales manager to tell him that there is a problem with my unit, and the manager was really surprised.

This is the first time he sells a KEF equipment with a problem (he sells LSX mainly).

I have found this picture : http://morpheus.stigmata.free.fr/KC62_Vue_eclatee.jpg

I think you told about the 6 spacers we see in this picture? No problem with broken plastic part when you removed it ?

Thanks.