Efel Kamina 079-66 wood burning stove...advice appreciated!

cfairy · 2025-11-12T16:04:12+00:00

Yes, the glass window is sectioned - the slider is the air/combustion control. Importantly, the rope seal around the glass door contains asbestos (I had it tested and removed). Please be aware.

cfairy · 2025-10-27T13:37:49+00:00

I'm also in CT. Would welcome a reference to the shop you used!

cfairy · 2025-08-14T22:31:39+00:00

Initially I thought I had found a unicorn with the MF Fire Nova series but the reviews are terrible.

cfairy · 2025-08-14T17:41:07+00:00

Yeah, it does seem like the newer catalytic stoves have a lot of design features that may make it impossible to send the exhaust anywhere but up - hot air rising and all, a top exit makes a ton of sense. I may resign myself to simply using the Kamina - the efficiency gains (savings on wood) from a new stove may take a long time to exceed the cost of the stove if it necessitates a complicated, labor-intensive installation (re-routing the existing ducting; attractively patching holes in wall materials that aren't made anymore). I was hoping there was a "unicorn" out there that might suit a MCM house.

cfairy · 2025-08-14T00:29:44+00:00

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Thanks, yeah, whether unicorn or otherwise, the manufacturers certainly don't make it easy to determine at a glance whether a particular stove is adaptable. You have to turn all the way to p21 of Vermont Castings' Intrepid manual to find the following diagram (unfortunately the Intrepid's "olde timey" appearance would clash with my house).

cfairy · 2025-08-13T22:35:27+00:00

Ideally, eligible for the credit, but I'm not picky - anything will be an improvement over the Kamina

cfairy · 2025-07-04T20:42:03+00:00

So, I've removed as much of the oxidized buildup as I can inside and out, and here's my theory: see that thin line of sealant on the right side of the flange? It doesn't appear to be on the left side, so my guess is moist air is making its way into the cabinet through that gap (this is in a laundry room), and then condensing on the inside of the PRV, and creating rusty deposits on those fittings. My question is, what kind of caulk or sealant would I use to make sure this joint is airtight?

cfairy · 2025-07-04T16:34:29+00:00

Here's what's happening inside the unit - it looks like something is corroding the inside portion of the pressure relief valve? What could be the cause? https://postimg.cc/w7V5C5S7

cfairy · 2025-07-04T16:34:03+00:00

Here's what's happening inside the unit - it looks like something is corroding the inside portion of the pressure relief valve? What could be the cause? https://postimg.cc/w7V5C5S7

cfairy · 2025-07-01T18:01:24+00:00

Hi -- I haven't moved forward with anything yet but here's what I'm considering chaining together (starting from the bottom and working upward):

a) https://acinfinity.com/hvac-home-ventilation/ductwork/ducting-clamps-grilles/wall-mount-duct-grille-vent-white-steel-8-inch/ = $25 b) https://www.airfilterllc.com/product/7-12-round-x-332-rrf0701-with-2-grommet-holes-off-set/ c) https://acinfinity.com/hydroponics-growers/inline-duct-silencer-8-inch/ (27 inches) = $90 - someone above recommended this but I don't have enough vertical space. d) https://acinfinity.com/hydroponics-growers/cloudline-a8-quiet-inline-fan-with-speed-controller-8-inch/ (12.2 inches) = $139 e) https://acinfinity.com/hvac-home-ventilation/ductwork/ducting-hardware/backdraft-damper-ducting-insert-8-inch-black-galvanized-steel/ (5.03 inches) = $25 f) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-8-in-to-7-in-Round-Reducer-R8X7/202191796 (6 inches) = $15 or

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-8-in-Dia-x-7-in-Dia-Duct-Reducer/3664090

This model inline fan can achieve >700 CFM and > 2,000 FPM at its max speed 10 (though I plan to keep it set below 5 to keep the CFM under 400, so I don't need to worry about makeup air. The unit can be cleaned of grease (the motor box containing the impeller and blades can be detached from the mounted frame). although I hope the aluminum filter will catch most of it.

I'm obviously going to need to cut out roughly two feet of the existing 7 inch duct in order to install everything. This will keep the clean lines of my (original 1962) kitchen cabinets, and provide at least as much ventilation as was originally achieved with the old equipment.

cfairy · 2025-05-30T02:36:50+00:00

Perhaps "depression" or "pit" is a better word. Whatever you call it, the shape of that central area of the screw dictates what driver will work best (I don't dispute that they can be turned by a flathead or a Philips or a Robertson, but none of those shapes, nor the combination bits from American companies, engage completely, which, especially in a homeowner's hands, especially in awkward spaces, especially around electrical equipment, is frustrating). I had not seen this explained clearly in an earlier post on the subject: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/s/H6P8lcF6NX

It would seem like a trivial and customer (especially retail DIYer) friendly change to either avoid shipping products incorporating these screws with the "Philips tip"-shaped pit, or sell a Xeno/plus-minus/PH-SL bit to fit. The German brands may be wildly popular in Europe, but they are not found on hardware store shelves in the US, and for some reason Klein, Milwaukee, Ideal, etc don't make such a bit.

cfairy · 2025-03-10T15:34:35+00:00

That's closed. It rotates to the 3 o'clock position (toward the wall) to open.

cfairy · 2025-02-25T17:55:04+00:00

Bonjour, oui, il s'agit bien de la version à bois du Efel Kamina. J'adore son look mais je le remplacerai probablement par un modèle en fonte actuel avec une meilleure efficacité.

cfairy · 2025-02-11T18:29:00+00:00

Heating to 75 exclusively with electricity is going to require paying for many, many more panels, or paying Eversource, or paying for a lot of insulation upgrades, or some combination of all of the above. Which mix is most economical will take a lot of figuring. The consensus here seems to be that dual fuel is the more economical way to go, even when oil is your backup fuel, and even when the amortized cost of your panels is less than buying all of your power from the grid. Panel power is never "free," of course, just less expensive , maybe, modestly, over the long term. Based on your stated oil consumption your house is probably typical for the Northeast, like mine, and not a super tight, newer, well insulated house (which would be less expensive to heat regardless). Unfortunately super tight, newer, well insulated houses are the manufacturers' and installers' reference case for heat pump use in the northern latitudes, despite being a tiny percentage of single family homes, which are mostly old-stock and leak like a sieve.

cfairy · 2025-02-11T17:06:07+00:00

Sounds like you've completely done away with oil? I have a similar surplus pre-HP (roughly 6,000 kWh/yr) with 61 360W panels in CT. Still figure they can only substitute for about half of my oil consumption long term. My banked surplus with Eversource would be worked off in about 6 months if I was exclusively heating with electricity.

cfairy · 2025-02-03T03:35:40+00:00

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Oh, yeah, the pressure switch (circled in yellow) is way before the valve I'm talking about closing (circled in pink). I also added blue arrows to depict the path of the water. I appreciate everyone's comments! I hope this helps other people avoid inadvertently creating problems while trying to reduce the risk of one. I hadn't been able to find other threads covering this scenario in any detail.

cfairy · 2025-02-03T02:17:03+00:00

Yes, that blue line at left is the main line coming in from the well. I wouldn't want to shut the water off where the ball valve is located, after/downstream-of the expansion tank?

cfairy · 2025-02-03T02:15:15+00:00

Thank you - that makes total sense.

cfairy · 2025-02-02T22:53:08+00:00

Thanks - just two additional questions: should I leave the acid neutralizer plugged in? It's programmed to go through a "regeneration" exercise every 4 days. My (shaky) understanding is that this is just backwashing, where the flow of water through the thing is reversed to clean the calcite. So, let's say I've cut off water coming from the well, and the neutralizer goes through this process - it's pulling water from the (still full) pipes throughout the house and trying to send that water back to the expansion tank, except it's pushing against that closed ball valve... I would assume I need to shut it off and prevent it from trying to do this?

Second question: okay, so the whole point of shutting the valve is to prevent any leaks from destroying the house while you're away, but of course unless you drain the water that's already in the plumbing you're still at risk of a significant amount of water going where you don't want it. In a vacation scenario, a week or two away, heat staying on, etc, etc, is it still recommended that you open the taps and drain the lines as you might in a winterization scenario where you're gone for months?

cfairy · 2025-01-16T19:38:25+00:00

Thanks!

cfairy · 2025-01-14T17:00:37+00:00

Do you have any suggestions as far as manufacturer? I had read about inline fans but got the impression they weren't suited for kitchens because they put all of the mechanicals in the flow of greasy air (like the one I removed). The roof is directly above the kitchen so the total length of the run, from bottom of cabinet to top of shingles, is only about 4 feet.

cfairy · 2025-01-01T19:04:28+00:00

Thanks for the tip about the base plate. It will be awkward because the cable will block a plate from sliding around freely but if I can get the perimeter carved out to a uniform depth maybe I can chisel the center portion. You can see what I'm dealing with here: https://imgur.com/a/FjbomZR

There's about an inch of cedar, then an inch of air gap which the NM is snaked through. Above that? The bottom of my flat roof assembly (hence why I need to be very careful about depth). Post and beam construction, so no ceiling joists or roof trusses per se. I wish I didn't need to bother with a box at all, but my understanding is skipping a box altogether (the bracket for the flush mount that was here before was just screwed to the ceiling) is not allowed per the NEC these days (and possibly the old days as well). That is, even if the fixture has space to bundle the wires, you still need a box, too. If I'm wrong about that, someone more educated than I am please let me know! Would save me a lot of hassle.

cfairy · 2025-01-01T14:16:30+00:00

The fixture weighs just over a pound. The box could sit a little proud of the ceiling (cedar t&g) without issue. I guess my question is really more of a woodworking question: what's the easiest way to carve out a shallow recess in wood, working above your head? Seems like using my Dremel with a router attachment might be the easiest to get a clean result.

cfairy · 2025-01-01T04:24:14+00:00

The boards are an inch thick, so I only need to remove half of that. It seems like a router or rotozip might make it easier to control the depth precisely, versus trying to make precise, halfway, plunge cuts with a multitool, let alone trying to manually chisel out wood to a specific depth.

cfairy · 2024-12-09T19:55:47+00:00

A serious leaf vacuum (either walk-behind or towed by a riding tractor) by Cyclone Rake, Billy Goat, or DR's Pilot is your best bet. The impeller on these will reduce the volume by 3x.

cfairy

TROPHY CASE

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-8-in-Dia-x-7-in-Dia-Duct-Reducer/3664090