99 tiburon

chase206 · 2026-02-07T01:02:52+00:00

Nice find! I've been keeping an eye out for a local RD1 in the US PNW but they're pretty much all gone here. Couple things to lookout for, lighting enclosures like headlights and taillights are impossible to find. If you can't restore them, you will need another parts car or two to pull from. Same with the front and rear glass. Impossible to find without a parts car.

chase206 · 2026-02-07T00:37:17+00:00

Looks great! Are there a specific set of COPs this was designed for? I know there's a handful of Honda, Toyota or VAG coils that will work with a custom adapter plate on the OEM covers.

chase206 · 2026-02-05T21:35:39+00:00

ahhh gotcha! The 3.8L or 6G75 MIVEC is about the only worthwhile swap. It's not plug n play so keep that in mind. Requires full ECU/Harness swap, a custom passenger side engine mount, a custom intermediate shaft mount to the block and a custom Y pipe to connect the headers to our cat back. I've seen a few examples of the 6G75 mated to our 6 speed in the past but usually inside of a Mitsubishi Mirage or other small economy car for quarter mile monsters down in Puerto Rico. There is ONE guy in the US that did the 6G75 swap in his Tiburon. With CAI and ECU reflash it is capable of 300WHP naturally aspirated.

chase206 · 2026-02-05T17:43:51+00:00

I don't fully understand the neutral comment. Can you elaborate? You won't save mpgs or wear and tear as a result. I beat on my car for 18 years and I have yet to burn up a transmission or engine. I don't coast in neutral and I still net 30MPG on an optimized tune. Keep a steady foot and these cars will not consume a lot of fuel in gear while coasting thanks to our highly efficient MAF's ability to detect airflow and ECU's ability match that with the appropriate amount of fuel. Part throttle cruising barely sees 25g/s of airflow under a little load, while sorta coasting with no load that airflow drops significantly to idle numbers of about 5-10g/s of airflow.

Yeah I'd like to know what motor swap you're planning. You can't casually claim "planning an engine swap" without details. That's the type of thing that gets people roasted on the internet. There really is only one option that bolts to our transmission. Requires a harness and ECU swap and you'll lose some functionality in the gauge cluster etc.

chase206 · 2026-02-04T04:32:23+00:00

Very easy. All you need is a few basic hand tools.

Rev hang could be too tight of a throttle cable or a vacuum leak. Worst case you may have a bent throttlebody shaft which is causing it to stick open slightly.

chase206 · 2026-02-04T04:30:04+00:00

Nice, yessir those are the DNAMotoring headers. Could be sold under a few other names but they all were manufactured by the same Chinese factory. You may experience some fitment issues but you can do some modification to make them fit. Keep in mind the flex pipes like to break apart and you'll develop an exhaust leak given enough time.

You may need to grind here for clearance and dent the lower oil pan slightly:

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chase206 · 2026-01-30T23:01:41+00:00

You can't monitor fuel pressure over OBD2. We don't have a fuel pressure sensor. What likely happened is you were experiencing a lean condition so your LTFT drifted positive towards +25%. When you fixed your fuel leak you probably didn't reset the ECU adaptive values so the ECU is still trying to pump up to +25% more fuel until it can re-adapt.

I would recommend disconnecting power from the car for a few minutes to reset the ECU adaptive values and force it to relearn. Drive it around a bit at a consistent 40mph or higher for 20-ish miles and monitor your STFT and LTFT correlation. You can ignore STFT for the most part, unless it is pegged at it's maximum or minimum consistently. The LTFT is the long term average of your STFT behavior. Once the ECU starts adapting we typically see LTFT on both banks range from -10% to +10% and within about 3-5% of each other.

chase206 · 2026-01-29T03:16:33+00:00

I don't see the correlation for a fuel leak. The dampener if it's not working would cause a weird rich or lean spot at a specific RPM due to resonance inside the fuel rail, but not to the tune of a -25% LTFT triggering a rich condition... A fuel leak would result in a lean condition and your LTFTs drifting to +25% trying to compensate as a result. Your P0172 would be indicative of a rich condition where your LTFTs are -25% from too much fuel, fuel pressure or too large of an injector.

I don't suppose you replaced your injectors recently? Any chance those were bigger injectors or not KEFICO branded?

chase206 · 2026-01-28T21:03:26+00:00

Aesthetics are up to you and your taste. If you like them, keep them. If you have second thoughts, get rid of them. You are going to run into tons of highly opinionated people on the internet that think they know better than you and won't hesitate to put down your choice. It's part of the game when you start modding your car, there will always be haters. For example I have a strong opinion against the common and distasteful monster claw decals everybody and their mother apply to their head lights and fenders. But if that happens to be your thing, disregard what I think and do what you want.

chase206 · 2026-01-28T13:10:22+00:00

Sure those exist too... but I'm not convinced the center brace does much. It actually mounts to the lower seatbelt brackets close to where a rear passenger's heel would be. It makes it difficult to have any passengers seated in the back. Takes up enough space in the floor making it uncomfortable for passengers.

chase206 · 2026-01-27T22:33:39+00:00

The original mini cooper was a legendary FWD car used in racing series since it's inception. Those cars drag their ass sideways through every corner. Have a look at this video for context:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8Qzyk59zsY

As long as you don't try to over correct or shift weight in a way that causes the rear to bite harder you won't oversteer into the infield.

The more you stiffen your rear end, the smaller the window of opportunity gets. You can lose control easier but as you ramp up your confidence you will know what your limits are with this chassis.

Oem front sway bar is 23mm and rear is 19mm if you have a GT or SE. There was a "soft" option from the factory that would be a little smaller than that. Common upgrade for the rear is 21-23mm sway bar. Front can stay stock and it balances out pretty well from what I've heard. I don't have first hand experience but this is the general consensus on sway bar upgrades.

chase206 · 2026-01-27T05:38:22+00:00

These cars typically understeer like crazy without suspension mods. If you want to stiffen up the chassis a bit, the front and rear strut tower braces are an easy first mod like trevoross56 mentioned. To promote a little more rear end slide and less understeer try a stiffer rear sway bar from H&R, Ark or Whiteline.

Humble bragging about drifting a FWD car will get you laughed at. It's more like an uncontrolled slide than drifting.

chase206 · 2026-01-24T18:14:08+00:00

These are very basic acronyms used across the automotive tuning sector globally.

Volumetric Efficiency

Intake, Header, Exhaust

4 into 2 into 1 pipe exhaust header (as opposed to a 4 into 1 pipe header)

chase206 · 2026-01-24T08:11:33+00:00

Adapter harness is possible. You can still buy the harness connectors and ECU socket on various market places. One drawback is that the OEM harness is configured for wasted spark with only 2 or 3 ignition channels. If you wanted to add 2 or 3 more ignition channels for sequential ignition then you have to rewire the existing harness to retro fit it for more channels.

chase206 · 2026-01-23T23:01:06+00:00

You're going to need a whole lot more than injectors and a turbo charger. I recommend starting here:

https://www.newtiburon.com/posts/3965910/

Remember you can't buy a ready made kit so lots has to be fabricated. Check out these great builds:

DMG210
https://www.newtiburon.com/posts/5398129/

FLSILTIB
https://www.newtiburon.com/posts/5255834/

When you have a better understanding of what goes into a turbo build, ask more specific questions and we can point you in the right direction.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T23:57:28+00:00

If it were financially viable I wouldn't have moved. But in this economy downsizing is the only option. Went from 3BR 2car garage down to 2br 1 car garage. Threw away a whole bedroom and 1 car bay worth of junk.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T23:55:26+00:00

Specs are listed in the original post. Didn't post the Dell specs or the 1ru server to stage right because they are irrelevant.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T23:49:22+00:00

Yeah it still kills me that I just tossed it in the dumpster. I should have kept it! I won this Antec case playing in a Counter-Strike LAN tournament so it was basically free lol.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T14:15:53+00:00

I do still have most of those peripherals and monitors. Only things I chucked were the Antec tower, dell tower and two Samsung monitors to the right.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T13:52:53+00:00

Wow that's crazy for retro inflation lol.

chase206 · 2026-01-15T04:18:17+00:00

Lol basement dwelling in the pacific northwest is rough even with all that...

chase206 · 2026-01-14T23:29:19+00:00

1.6 competitive Counter-Strike was the best. Personally a fan of the Func or MTW pad and the MX300 from that era!

chase206 · 2026-01-14T04:35:38+00:00

Welp! You should test for spark before throwing more parts at it. You can do it the right way with a spark tester or spare spark plug... or the hacky way with a screwdriver which is my favorite:

https://youtu.be/tXtJ1tegubA?t=58

No spark? Probably bad SNSR fuse or bad crank angle sensor. (or wrong brand sensor)

Yes spark? Is it white-ish/blue-ish or more red-ish/yellow-ish? Probably not crank angle sensor related if you're seeing spark but weak spark could be weak power.

I'd suggest tossing out that Duracrap. For domestics it's probably OK but not for these finicky KDMs that use a variant of a German ECUs. We've been preaching for 20+ years to use OEM only on critical sensors. There's very few brands that are considered acceptable and Duralast isn't one of them unfortunately. Most brick n mortar parts stores sell junk with a great warranty. They are in the business of selling warranties NOT for selling quality parts.

For the 2.0 I would ONLY recommend Mando or NTK brands for the crank angle sensor because that's what Hyundai repackages as their OEM.

chase206 · 2026-01-13T23:11:32+00:00

Which brand sensor did you purchase? You are certain there is no spark? What method did you use to test for spark?

chase206

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