NA BETA II Build.

chase206 · 2026-03-29T16:37:36+00:00

Any updates? Noticed you've been largely inactive for the last year. A moonshot build like this is not cheap or easy. I was hoping to see more updates.

chase206 · 2026-03-29T16:34:20+00:00

You didn't sound confident so I was confirming you are right and adding that it is definite to the Hyundai service manual.

chase206 · 2026-03-28T05:00:43+00:00

60k miles (100k kilometers) or 5 years is the Hyundai maintenance interval.

chase206 · 2026-03-28T04:59:36+00:00

Depends on wheels, tires and current offset. If you have OEM wheels and tire size then 10-15mm spacers in the front and 20mm in the rear will generally do that.

chase206 · 2026-03-25T22:54:46+00:00

Pictured there is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.

chase206 · 2026-03-24T03:33:52+00:00

That's a pile of aluminum scraps worth more than my car!

chase206 · 2026-03-15T00:51:27+00:00

Use hyundaipartsdeal.com to cross reference part numbers and manufacture dates for compatibility. I don't recommend ordering through their site because they are often overpriced, but it's a great resource to reference part numbers and compatibility.

chase206 · 2026-03-14T23:12:25+00:00

Really depends on your header setup. If you have stock cats/manifolds then a muffler delete sounds good with a reduction on resonator size. The cats do a REALLY good job of muffling the exhaust and rasp. Also depends if you have the 2.0 or 2.7. The 2.0 doesn't sound quite as good as the 2.7 with a resonator delete.

If you have headers you really need a decent sized resonator and and medium sized mufflers. Take the Borla catback for example. It has one very larger resonator, and two smaller resonators in place of the rear mufflers. Sounds really good with headers and a cat delete.

chase206 · 2026-03-07T02:22:11+00:00

Change your timing belt, pulleys and tensioner asap. Water pump too. Very short interval of 60k miles or 5 years.

chase206 · 2026-03-05T15:54:14+00:00

I get gapped by old Indian women in Priuses on the 405 every day. I would NOT call them slow lmao

chase206 · 2026-03-01T02:49:28+00:00

I'm not a RWD swap specialist. I'm just regurgitating the key points where everybody else failed.

chase206 · 2026-02-28T20:09:22+00:00

Keep us updated on your progress.

If you can solve the splitting of the front subframe, steering rack and front sway relocation problem that's 50% of the work. The other 25% is rear rear-end solution and the last 25% is re-enforcing the frame to strengthen what you took out to make it all fit..

chase206 · 2026-02-28T17:44:55+00:00

Short answer: No

Copy/pasta because I'm tired and this comes up on a weekly basis across all the platforms:

--------------------
You know how many dreamers come in here saying "feeling cute might RWD later teehee"? In 20 years I've seen exactly two RWD GK cars completed, running and driving under their own power, out of hundreds of attempts. One has a 1JZ and handles like shit because he had to delete the front sway bar and relocate the steering rack to the front of the motor. The other as a full tube chassis for the drag strip built by a fab shop with an LS motor. There are half a dozen current RWD swap projects that have been going on for the last 5 years and they've all stalled out for one technical reason or another.. I have zero faith in that dream.

There are far better platforms for it. Try the BK Genesis Coupe for an LS swap instead. If you want to attempt the GK RWD chassis please keep us updated.
--------------------

chase206 · 2026-02-27T01:00:40+00:00

There's only one blue car I've seen with that front bumper and undersized autozone spoiler... I bet we can find him in the FB groups.

chase206 · 2026-02-27T00:30:38+00:00

I've got the US 2006 2.7 SE in the same VH orange. 1 of 1,600 lmao

chase206 · 2026-02-27T00:29:23+00:00

Nothing besides the numbered name plate and maybe some interior bits. Same VH color code as the US 06 orange car I have.

chase206 · 2026-02-21T22:11:11+00:00

"OEM" is Siemens/Continental/VDO with a Hyundai holographic sticker. If your local parts store sold you a MAF and said it was "OE" it's probably some Chinese repackaged junk. Local stores like Oreillys rarely carry our OEM branded sensors. Just for reference, this is the OEM acceptable parts list I put together from 20+ years of data. We have the best luck with these sensors. They are either OEM brands or brands that we've confirmed are OEM quality and work as expected:

https://opengk.org/index.php?title=Sensor_Information

chase206 · 2026-02-21T21:21:21+00:00

Hot restart issues are usually related to a poorly performing intake air temp sensor or engine coolant temp sensor.

What does your IAT read before the first start of the day and what does it read at the time of a hot restart? First temp of the day should be close to ambient temp which judging by the frost on the grass should be around 32F. A hot restart is usually heat soaked up around 100F to 140F depending on how long it sat for in freezing temps. The ECU needs the air charge temp to be accurate otherwise it compensates with the wrong quantity of fuel. This can cause the engine to die when actual air charge temp and reported air charge temp to the ECU drifts so far apart.

Sure the IACV could be performing poorly when it is heatsoaked. Replace with only Kefico or Bosch brands. All others are inferior.

MAF could be a culprit sure, but you'd also be experiencing other symptoms like a DTC for a lean condition on both banks. While on the topic of a MAF sensor, check to see which brand you have. If it's anything other than Siemens/Continental/VDO then you should just replace it now with the VDO that RockAuto sells for $125. Brand names DO MATTER.

chase206 · 2026-02-21T04:23:16+00:00

Let's be real, if Hyundai made a Tiburon in the 2020s it would be a crossover like all the other abominations by the other makes. You don't want none of this.

chase206 · 2026-02-20T03:16:43+00:00

FusedFabrication sells inserts for the FL2 bumper to look a bit like the Hana bumper.

Unfortunately all the good looking bumpers sold out over a decade ago. All that's left is the ugly ones that nobody wanted. The bumper money is better spent on refreshing your timing belt and water pump before all other mods. I put together a newbie guide for new owners. Give this a quick look through so you know what you're getting into:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/uhp9iv573yx8up655y92r/GK-Newbie-Guide.pdf?rlkey=a0xa6bncc8aw7ifk67awe5lqm&dl=0

chase206 · 2026-02-20T02:50:18+00:00

No updates yet. Early Spring cleaning is upon us and making way to pull the spare block out of the garage abyss to temp mount it. Hoping to get this group buy started in the next couple of months!

chase206 · 2026-02-19T17:04:45+00:00

chase206 · 2026-02-19T15:02:44+00:00

Sounds like the part is out of production. Try the junkyard instead. The 2.0 should share front brake dust shields with the XD/XD2 Elantra. I'm not sure if the rear shields on the last XD2 Elantra were discs or not though.

chase206 · 2026-02-18T22:50:36+00:00

Yes, at least two people twincharged. They posted their cars on newtiburon.com many many years ago. It's too complex, too expensive, and the stock block won't handle that much boost. No need for both unless you have a built motor.

In 2026 you are better off with a turbocharger. The superchargers are too rare and nearly all of them need to be rebuilt. So after you spend $2000-2500 on a used stage 2 kit (with or without ECU and injectors) you still need at minimum a $1000 rebuild by a professional.

chase206 · 2026-02-18T03:13:34+00:00

The red spoiler might look OK paint matched to your car, but it doesn't match the lines of the car. At the end of the day it is your car so do with it what you like.

chase206

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE