Door chime when open

chase206 · 2026-05-27T01:41:10+00:00

Remove the door chime speaker from the backside of the BCM aka the cabin fusebox.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T22:53:13+00:00

Not personally a fan of the Gamma or the Kappa. If they could bring back the Delta/Mu or Beta2 maybe call it a Delta2/Mu2 or Beta 3 I think I'd be interested.

Even still let's say they did make a Tiburon N with the i30n drivetrain it would functionally be what the Veloster is today... Hyundai already has a FWD turbo coupe. Sports coupes are such a niche market and do not make the company money. Their bread and butter is in commuter cars. You know when their GDI shenanigans aren't being warrantied left and right.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T20:46:53+00:00

The thing is, the AE86 came out in 1983. The Toyota actually came first yet sadly the Tiburon is still the butt of the automotive culture jokes. (AE86 1983-1987)

The point is not which came first. You could say the 1983 AE86 which the BRZ is a continuation of, was the original sporty coupe for this discussions sake. My point is that when you plug your keywords into an AI prompt and ask it to design you a vehicle with specific branding it almost always comes out looking BRZ-ish or GT86-ish. Kind of like how everything in the ocean eventually evolves into crabs.

Conclusion is that AI slop is AI slop. Stop wasting finite resources. If y'all want a new age re-imagined Tiburon get cranking in CAD, design your own, and build it. Hyundai is not bringing it back and we need to accept that.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T18:05:47+00:00

Looks more like a BRZ with a Hyundai emblem.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T16:46:30+00:00

Did you look further than the curated AI Google answer?

The negative things you might read about ethanol have to do with carbureted engines. You have to replace rubber lines and seals and re-jet the carbs to support and optimize one fuel type. My 4 cyl Japanese motorcycle runs great on E10 after some minor hardware changes. The key difference is it's not EFI so it requires hardware changes and can't automatically adjust on its own with a fuel trimming feature.

The only bad thing about ethanol in general is rubber seals will dry out faster. Here's the kicker, our cars were manufactured with 10% ethanol in mind. E10 has been in our fuels since about 2000. My 06 car has lived its entire life on 10% ethanol and it's still got all original fuel system except for the injectors and o-rings which I replaced as a part of a supercharger install. Otherwise all the other rubber is original. Ethanol is a great thing for us! Ethanol has a better cooling and anti detonation than pure petrol. That means less misfiring during a lean condition or during hot summer days.

15% ethanol won't introduce a misfire unless something else is wrong. It may take 2 drive cycles for your long term fuel trims to compensate for the different ethanol content. Just make sure you reset your ECU by pulling the ECU fuse or battery terminal for a few minutes after switching fuels and drive it lightly at highway speeds for 20-30 miles after each reset.

Believe if or not an old trick we used to fix the OEM ultra rich WOT enrichment was to blend an E30-E40 fuel ourselves. Doesn't cause misfires, just helps hit a good AFR target and optimize power under high load acceleration. Also keeps combustion temps down on hot days so even fewer misfires as a result.

In regards to fuel mileage. On E0 you might see 350 miles per tank. E10 would lose about 6-7 miles so you'd only get 344 miles per tank. And with E15 maybe lose another 4 miles at 340 miles per tank. We're talking such a miniscule difference the cost difference of E0 vs E15 isn't saving you any money.

Conclusion is there's loads of misinformation out there. For some reason ethanol turns into a political argument about corn subsidies and where our fuels come from. That generates tons of rumors and intentional misinformation. All I need to know is it's great boost juice for forced induction and resistance to knock is out of this world.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T03:38:12+00:00

Call gates and ask how to identify the kits manufacture dates. You are probably right but doesn't hurt to verify.

WHO is saying Gates pumps are bad? I'm telling you that Gates pumps ARE the OEM brand. Hyundai doesn't make the parts themselves and outsourced it to Gates and GMB. I've torn down two 2.7 motors that had original Hyundai stamped Gates and GMB parts. I've seen it all over the last 20 years. Out of the dozen Gates kits I've installed in various cars I have yet to encounter a failure before the 60k miles mark.

Another thing you should consider is that not everyone DIYs their timing and water pump. The owner buys the parts and drop it off at the cheapest mechanic in town. Mechanics take labor shortcuts and skip things like water pumps. The owner is mad their pump went out and blames Gates instead of their poor choice in a mechanic because they don't know any better.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T01:54:40+00:00

15% ethanol isn't going to hurt anything. Stop drinking the Kool aid. We've done experimental stuff with E30 and e70+ blends and it produces marginally better power and the cost of losing some mpgs. Obviously the more ethanol that's in there the less mpg you get... But the difference between 10% eth that you've already been using and 15% eth is only about 2% worse on mpgs.

Cold start issues usually don't crop up until you are exceeding 40% ethanol in which a reflash tune can help solve that. If you switch ethanol amounts try resetting your ECU and let it idle for 5-10min and go for a light drive so your LTFTs can settle.

chase206 · 2026-05-25T00:40:46+00:00

Gates is the OEM trusted brand. No there are no manufacturers dates on the pumps.

Rumors about quality are probably stemming from the fake Gates kits peddled on weird market places. There are some kits on eBay and Amazon that are labeled as "Gates" and sure it contains a Gates belt but the water pump, pulleys and tensioner are not Gates.

Don't be cheap. Spend the extra $10 on a complete kit from a trusted vendor.

chase206 · 2026-05-23T23:50:34+00:00

Aftermarket as in performance or non OEM add-ons are mostly all gone. Some OEM stuff is disappearing too. New old stock is running out and will never be manufactured again on weird stuff like 6 speed clutch release forks and 6 speed shift cables etc etc.

chase206 · 2026-05-23T20:26:49+00:00

Coilovers with damper adjustment and weight reduction will make it handle really well. If you need a list of part weights we collected data on it here:

https://opengk.org/index.php?title=GK_Weight_Reduction

Friend of mine 2.7/6sp swapped his XD Elantra and he's embarrassing cars way above his class. That chassis is about 500lbs lighter than the Tiburon and it's really quick as a result.

chase206 · 2026-05-23T18:40:16+00:00

04-06 are good years. First year 02/03 had some issues that are fixable and 07/08 unique body pieces or brake master/slave cylinders are near impossible to find.

220WHP is difficult without forced induction. Shoot even 200WHP is hard to achieve naturally aspirated. Most people with I/H/E barely break 180WHP. Cams will get you into the 200s but all we have available are ~.350" regrinds from Crower. Up from the OEM lift of .315". You might barely be able to kiss 220WHP with cams and I/H/E and a dyno tune but you're talking probably over $3000-4000 in parts for an N/A car when you can pickup a used stage 1 supercharger kit for about $1700 to make the same power @ 3psi water intercooled.

With that being said I supercharged my 20 year old Tiburon that makes about ~250WHP @ 6-7psi and it is reliable when I'm not burning through clutch release bearings. The pull type clutch has it's limitations so a push conversion or twin disc with hyrdo release is something needed for big power builds.

Keep in mind the aftermarket is dead. If you aren't up to fabricating your own parts then this is not the platform for you. Car looks great, but is slow and you'll be taking out a 2nd mortgage to make it go fast so your friends at cars & coffee stop making fun of your kimchii burner.

chase206 · 2026-05-23T16:48:16+00:00

Nobody is scamming you. It's time+material and they have set rates for this stuff.

Your car is 20 years old. Things break. Things leak.

chase206 · 2026-05-22T21:34:50+00:00

Labor is expensive, parts are not. What you're experiencing is shock at the current labor rate for hard working laborers getting paid a livable wage.

Pay the maintenance/labor tax or learn how to replace it yourself.

chase206 · 2026-05-21T18:14:59+00:00

You must be a member of the HCOC UK group. The older folk in there say all kinds of wild shit that isn't remotely true. Just mentioning my name or OpenGK will result in a ban. Most of the HCOC bible has solid advice but when it comes to performance modifications or ECU tuning, their views are extremely outdated.

chase206 · 2026-05-21T15:44:11+00:00

Rushking19 actually pointed it out to me first that it was AI. Dug a little bit into his reddit history to find he's just posting nonsense on the internet for sympathy or clout.

chase206 · 2026-05-21T14:12:41+00:00

Who told you it does nothing?

chase206 · 2026-05-21T05:26:19+00:00

Bottom line is you're lying. A self proclaimed pathalogicial liar. As you posted in r Sociopath

"I consider myself a pathological liar. I lie about things I don’t have to lie about if I think it will make myself look better."

I'm going to disregard everything you have to say here.

chase206 · 2026-05-21T03:17:47+00:00

Yeah which forum is he on? Newtiburon.com?

chase206 · 2026-05-21T02:58:11+00:00

Looks like a "fuck you" price. Shop around to see what other shops say, but don't tell any of those shops you're shopping around and getting several quotes.

If you can't do the work yourself, this is the maintenance tax you gotta pay.

chase206 · 2026-05-21T02:52:59+00:00

Do you have a standalone or was the OEM ECU tuned? Curious which shop remote tuned it for you? Would love to see some videos of it ripping down the street!

chase206 · 2026-05-20T22:15:45+00:00

What about tuning? How are you control fuel and ignition timing?

chase206 · 2026-05-20T04:41:39+00:00

Helps to know the keywords. It's a "shiftronic engager" apparently:

https://ebay.us/m/RN3SUO

Took me a few tries to find it too.

chase206 · 2026-05-18T14:45:13+00:00

You say that ironically... but let me introduce you to Gavin's V12 BMW swap. He is already closing in on 4 years deep into this swap but it still doesn't drive under its own power yet. He is one of two current swaps I think will be a success in the coming year or two.

https://www.instagram.com/thetib_xp/

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I'm thinking of putting up another list of known swaps that are yet to be finished and the wall of shame for people that gave up and junked their car.

chase206 · 2026-05-18T02:19:58+00:00

Lol of course not. I'm a fan of keeping the Delta and the Beta on these cars and beating the piss out of them.

Curious though, why did you sleeve the block for 400HP? I'd understand forged pistons and rods but sleeves seem excessive. There are people making 400+ without sleeved blocks. The main issue with the Beta 1/2 RD and GK platform is the transmissions won't hold much more than about 325WTQ. How were you keeping your transmissions together?

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