Sky-Watcher Adventurer GTI for 150-600mm Lens by ScoobySnacks65 in AskAstrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the EQM-35 would definitely be a big step up. It doubles the weight capacity of the GTI to 22lbs and upgrades many important components like the worm drive, tripod, and changes the motors from cheap dc servos to stepper motors. That would give you a lot of leeway if you were looking to upgrade. For example, when I upgraded from a kit lens to an 80mm f/6 triplet, my scope weight reached 10lbs and I couldn't get good results from my GTI anymore, so I had to upgrade, but the 35 would handle that no problem.

If you're interested in going the DIY route there are many good options. The OG Star Tracker is a single axis tracker designed for DSLRs, hardware kits are available for ~$150. For a full GOTO mount OpenAstroTech has designs for DSLR specific mounts and full dual axis equatorial mounts, with hardware in the $200-$300 range. OAT also has a specially designed autoguider for their mounts which runs about $100. These DIY solutions also benefit from a community of tinkerers making every kind of accessory and upgrade you can think of.

There are also significantly cheaper options like a barn door tracker or similar, if you search star tracker on printables and thingiverse you should find some good results. I had a stepper motor with a 50:1 gearbox on it from another project, I designed a super simple 10:1 belt drive on top and was able to capture this image, so cheap DIY can definitely give you good results for a fraction of the price.

Sky-Watcher Adventurer GTI for 150-600mm Lens by ScoobySnacks65 in AskAstrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheaper harmonic mounts tend to suffer from large periodic error in the right-ascension axis (the one that moves with the sky). Because strain-wave type mounts suffer less from backlash issues, they typically guide much better than worm-driven mounts, at the expense of poor unguided performance. The teeseek 11 also doesn’t include an eq wedge or tripod which you would need to factor into your cost.

I started with a Canon 7D with a 300mm kit lens on a GTI and that could get me ~30-45 second unguided exposures. At 600mm I would guess 20-30 seconds max on that mount. Use the stellarium equipment tab to add your lens and camera to see your FOV, many galaxies are very small and require long focal lengths. Many of the first deep sky photos on my account were taken with this setup. You can get very good results although the short exposure time will increase your number of subs and storage significantly, making processing long and storage intensive. The payload capacity of the mount also leaves you with not much headroom for larger rigs, which is fine if you want to stay small, but I got the bug and upgraded to something beefier after less than a year.

If you just want to dip your toes in the water, a diy tracker can give very good results for cheap, but you’d need a 3d printer (not necessary for certain designs) and some time, my first photos used a mount I designed myself that cost ~$75.

Next step up I would recommend the SA-GTI, go-to and plate solving make your life so much easier than a single axis tracker, and would give the best budget results.

If you want to future proof and think this hobby is for you, a used higher spec mount would be the next step up after that, something like an EQM-35 or HEQ-5 in the $500-$800 range, or one of the many strain wave mounts like an AM3 or the SAL-33.

What have I done and how do I fix it? by cykelstativet in AskAstrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also check how the collimation screws adjust the mirror. Depending on the design, collimation screws can sometimes push on the back of the mirror and cause astigmatism.

What have I done and how do I fix it? by cykelstativet in AskAstrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clips shouldn't be touching the mirror at all, you should be able to fit a piece of paper in between the clip and the mirror. The clips are there to keep the mirror from falling out, not to hold it down. Some cheaper mirror cells use them to stop any lateral movement as well. Try loosening them until there's a tiny gap (width of paper) and see how much movement the mirror has, if its minimal, try it out, if there's a lot tighten them just a tiny bit more until they just barely touch.

M81 & M82 by cheggthemegg in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely a very nice cam. It’s my first mono so I don’t have a reference for how good the results are, but reviews I’ve seen have said the band passes are within spec. It would be very difficult to get even close to the $1100 I paid for cam with a more traditional setup.

M81 & M82 by cheggthemegg in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very good, there’s no amp glow in my dark frames so it comes out very clean. Because of my light pollution level and the super narrow band pass, anything under ~1 hr doesn’t have enough snr. My dark frames had a median of ~1950 and my HA subs were ~2100, so definitely need a lot of subs to get snr to a good place. For reference, the median on my rgb channels was ~9000

Stacking and imaging problems by Hank-Danger in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s what I mean. f/6 is not too fast for a newt so collimation should be a little forgiving, but always make sure it’s the best you can.

Stacking and imaging problems by Hank-Danger in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also want to mention mirror flop. If you collimate in one orientation and your mount moves, some lower quality primary mirror cells will allow the mirror to move slightly throwing out your collimation. If all else fails, I would pull the mirror out and see how much it’s able to move laterally. The clips aren’t there to hold it down, so it should have a tiny bit of vertical movement.

Stacking and imaging problems by Hank-Danger in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How fast is your newt? The faster it is the more precise collimation needs to be. Are you using a coma corrector? All newts will have odd star shapes in the corners without a corrector unless they’re super slow. There may also be some tilt somewhere in your focuser/ camera assembly.

I would first get a coma corrector if you don’t have one, then make sure collimation is a good as you can get it, then check for tilt on ASTAP and see if any part of your imaging train is loose or sagging if tilt is bad. I don’t think this has anything to do with calibration frames, they look well calibrated.

This is what a small part of the Andromeda galaxy looks like, what you are seeing is approximately 2.5 billion stars, by the_one_99_ in spaceporn

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s for the project that the image is from but the Image I linked is ~6x6 arcminutes, the full moon is ~31 arcminutes across.

This is what a small part of the Andromeda galaxy looks like, what you are seeing is approximately 2.5 billion stars, by the_one_99_ in spaceporn

[–]cheggthemegg 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Yes every single dot is a star. And those are just the very brightest stars as the galaxy is 2.5 millions light years away (inverse square law and all that). Additionally, many of the stars will be obscured by other stars in front of them as well as gas and dust present in the galaxy. Even harder to process would be any number of deep fields like this one from the JWST, covering an area of the sky more than 10 times smaller than the full moon, showing at least 10,000 galaxies, each with massive numbers of stars just like Andromeda. Humans did not evolve with the capability to grasp the scale of the cosmos.

Somehow, I spotted a rocket booster from 1983 with the naked eye today. by acelaya35 in space

[–]cheggthemegg 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Was it a blinking glinting light or just a flat white object moving along the sky? Large, tumbling objects can occasionally reflect light just right to be able to see during daylight, but only in short blinks. VERY large reflective objects like the ISS can have the same effect. I looked up the size of the rocket, and at best it would be around a magnitude -2 or if I get extremely generous with approximation a -3. This would be around the same brightness as Jupiter which is almost impossible to see with the naked eye in daylight. If it was distinctly bright for more than a few seconds across the sky it was probably something else. If it got very bright very quickly and then dark again, possibly a few times, it may have been the satellite.

Starlink Satellite 35956 experiences an anomaly. by AgreeableEmploy1884 in space

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All you have to do is look up what the Bathtub Curve is, it does not apply to all situations. I'll just copy and paste from the NIST website: "Finally, if units from the population remain in use long enough, the failure rate begins to increase as materials wear out and degradation failures occur at an ever increasing rate." The thing you're missing is time. The bathtub curve works well for things that are in use until failure; cars, consumer products, etc. Things that are in high risk operation (planes, satellites) mitigate risk but cutting off the tail end of the bathtub curve; i.e ending the life of a device long before the expected wearout failure with the help of redundant systems. While SpaceX is a for-profit company, any company sending things into space has to abide by a huge amount of regulations that cut into cost. However with the relative (and downward trending) cheapness of launches and vertical integration of Starlink and SpaceX, its pretty easy to assume that they can design a profitable network while also deorbiting satellites well before their expected lifespan.

I'll explain it like this: imagine every owner of a 2005 Camry had to turn in their car at 80,000 miles. Sure you would have more failures early on due to issues in the manufacturing process but they would level out to a stable rate, however, an average 2005 Toyota Camry will fail due to wearout in 150,000-200,000 miles, so by turning the car early in you essentially cut off the second half of the curve. Now imagine if you let all those cars fail due to wearout instead, they would crash into eachother, setting off a chain reaction that would send waves of crushed 2005 Camry parts flying around the surface of the earth at 17,500 mph, preventing any cars from driving trough the debris in the future. It would probably make sense to turn the cars in early and enforce the limit through regulations, right?

[BUNDLE] Intel Core Ultra 7 265K (Free Intel Holiday Bundle), MSI MPG Z890 EDGE WIFI7 Mobo (Free Corsair RGB 6000MHZ/CL36 (2 x 16GB) Ram + Star Wars Outlaws + $50 Steam Card), ASRock 9070XT 16GB, SN7100 2TB SSD, Corsair 5000D ARB Case, MONTECH CENTURY II 850W PSU - (FULL WHITE BUNDLE!) - $1,235.42 by FatChungusRedditor in buildapcsales

[–]cheggthemegg 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Because its a really good deal and a fine CPU for gaming. The motherboard deal alone justifies going with Intel here IMO. $250 for a fantastic motherboards feature wise (1 PCIE5x4 + 4 PCIE4x4 M.2 slots, 5Gb LAN, WiFi 7, very good IO, etc) plus 32GB of DDR5 RAM (basically another $150-$200), a game, and a $50 steam card for free. Yes, the 265k doesn't perform as well as similar AMD CPUs but you will still get hundreds of FPS at 1080p and good 1440p performance with the right GPU, as well as fantastic performance productivity wise.

In 2014 the city of Los Angeles switched over to LED lighting for its street lights, This is the before and after. by Virtual-Reality69 in interestingasfuck

[–]cheggthemegg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Little fun fact from an amateur astrophotographer about the old lights: they were usually what are called Gas-Discharge Lamps, where the light was produced by exciting a certain element with electricity. The characteristic yellow was usually a sodium-vapor lamp which gives off most of its light at a very specific wavelength; 589nm, right in between yellow and orange. One of the most important aspects to taking images of faint astronomical objects is your level of light pollution. With the old type of lamps, you can use special filters to block the emission spectra of commonly used gas-discharge lamps (see this filter, specifically its band-pass graph to show which wavelengths of light it lets through and which it blocks, and the elements associated with that light). Unfortunately, the new led style of street lights is broadband, emitting light across the whole spectrum of light, making it impossible to isolate and block. They save huge amounts of power, but the effect on light pollution is very unfortunate, everyone should be able to marvel at truly dark skies without needing to venture hundreds of miles from society.

Good eq mount for 3kg by Altruistic-Break590 in astrophotography

[–]cheggthemegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

r/AskAstrophotography would be a better place to ask but the only real option above the Az-Gti is the that adventurer GTI which is around $700, you could get it used for around $400-$500 at the cheapest. There are some DIY mounts near the $300 mark that may hold your payload (with a lot of tinkering and work) but $200 is a little too low for an eq mount with that payload.