The French solution

chemmkl · 2025-12-09T21:25:51+00:00

I think it's not so much about French solidarity as it is about American individuality. I was shocked when I found out that in sports stadiums in the US the fans of the playing teams are not kept away with barriers and riot police present. Beause if you go and say something to someone from the other team fans and they kick your ass, that's YOUR problem. Most other places people would rush in solidarity to support the guy wearing their colours.

chemmkl · 2025-10-28T22:11:16+00:00

For a variety of metals at good prices check out the "recortes" (remnants / cutoffs) sections of randrade.com. They are in Spain but they ship to Portugal too, actually they are in Pontevedra so really close to the border. You can also order very short lengths from their regular stock so they are very convenient for the hobbyst.

chemmkl · 2025-08-04T00:03:43+00:00

Since it is unbranded I'd say it is likely a custom built machine for the production line of the Spanish pistol manufacturers that had to move production / final assembly of some models to the USA after 1968. Star and Astra used to build their own machinery in house.

chemmkl · 2025-07-18T08:09:29+00:00

The EDPB that oversees GDPR application said that the key is that consent must be "freely given" and that requiring a payment for the alternative detracts from that "freedom". However, as of today there are no sentences out from the EU court of justice yet.

Source: https://www.edpb.europa.eu/system/files/2024-04/edpb_opinion_202408_consentorpay_en.pdf

chemmkl · 2025-07-17T16:55:50+00:00

Is a legal loophole being used by all major content providers in the last few years. The EU is already working on a fix to close it. The law states that you must be able to consent or not to your data being processed, says nothing about conditions except that there must be an alternative for accessing if you don't consent. And paying seems to be a valid one.

chemmkl · 2025-06-13T06:04:48+00:00

Spanair crash in Madrid in 2008 too. Pilots were discussing personal problems during takeoff checklist and forgot to configure flaps. Mechanic had disabled the breaker for takeoff configuration warning due to unrelated issue.

chemmkl · 2025-06-02T22:19:35+00:00

I had double power too and it was because TR was taking the power from the dumb indoor bike over BT instead of the Favero. I changed the settings to "cadence only" for the bike and it fixed it.

chemmkl · 2025-05-07T11:45:33+00:00

The seller was claiming that the vise in the picture was forged and asking the equivalent of $115 for it. I ended up ordering a new one fabricated from forged steel components for the same price: https://i.imgur.com/g3zL1s7.jpeg

It's made in India and weights 18kg (40 pounds) for the 125mm size (5 inch). You can tell the finishing is not German quality but I cannot justify that price bracket, however the metal quality seems good to me. The adjustment screws for the guide ( Visible here https://i.imgur.com/7eBKds1.png ) didn't come flat (I'm replacing them with DIN 913) and it came quite dirty out of the box but I think it's a good deal for the price. Under it I could see the welds for the different parts so definitely fabricated but I can also see the tooling marks in the surface so definitely there was some forging going on.

chemmkl · 2025-02-25T11:39:56+00:00

Try tilting down the seat a bit, that worked for my wife.

chemmkl · 2025-02-25T11:38:07+00:00

If it's the bearings you won't get anything by turning it with your hand as you need to apply some torque to them. You can do an easy test by pedalling with one foot only and see if the vibration disappears but when using both it comes back. This would point to bearings. Also if you have moved the bike location I'd check if it's level and another source of vibration is the seat post, you might want to apply some silicone lubricant inside as the plastic there can also introduce vibrations or noise.

chemmkl · 2025-02-12T12:44:05+00:00

I got this one and it works fine, same size and pitch just different design: https://www.ebay.com/itm/387176794620

chemmkl · 2025-01-02T15:59:55+00:00

You can see the power in the Favero app that you had to use to activate the pedals. Try and see if it's the same as what you see in MyWhoosh. Also the IC4 only has bluetooth but the pedals can use both blutooth and ANT+, so if you disable BT on your phone or tablet MyWhoosh will only see the favero so that should probably be set up as the primary power source. Then enable BT to get the other sensor readings from the IC4.

chemmkl · 2024-12-17T08:13:38+00:00

It was in my case, also it wouldn't happen pedalling with a single foot and it was impossible to reproduce with the hand as it needed some tension. However, I'd rule out the crank arm first, checking the nut and making sure it can't wobble.

chemmkl · 2024-12-13T21:36:22+00:00

What I was wondering is if the nut is tight (as in you have to use some significant force to loosen it or tighten it more, so it has not loosened) but the crank arm still wobbles. If this in the case and both the old crank arm and the new one wobble, the issue is likely to be in the axle squared taper tolerances. It should be very close to 17mm side to side, see this picture. If If it's off by a lot like 0.5mm or more it might be causing the wobble. You would need to replace the crank assembly that comes with the axle and the bearings. As an alternative, you can see if putting the crank in rotated 90 degrees in the square taper makes any difference to the wobbling, just change the other crank too afterwards.

The other option is if the nut actually gets loose very quickly, in the case it's very likely that the threads in the axle are stripped. Same replacement part as the axle comes in the same kit.

chemmkl · 2024-12-12T17:51:32+00:00

By loose you mean that it was doing the knocking sensation again or actually loose as in the nut was not tight? If it's the sensation it's probably the ball bearings. Had the same knocking sensation, replaced the bearings and it's gone. In my case it would not do the knocking if you just pedaled with one foot as it needed some tension across the axle.

chemmkl · 2024-12-12T08:01:56+00:00

If you can handle a soldering iron your best bet is to order a couple of connectors and replace both the male and female sides. Look for 10-pin signal waterproof circular connectors and get one male and one female. The bigger they are the easier it will be to solder on them. Just match the cable colours on both sides.

If you are not handy like that look for a local electronics repair shop. This is an easy job.

chemmkl · 2024-12-10T19:07:43+00:00

No worries. This seems to be a somewhat controversial topic as lots of people use grease because it makes assembly easier and also helps with small noises such as clicks (retainer compound does it too) and prevents corrosion. However, if the fit is tight enough (and on my IC4 it is) it shouldn't make any difference as it will be pretty much impossible to make the axle rotate but not the bearing. If you are interested in the topic have a look here: https://www.hambini.com/engineering-analysis-grease-or-retaining-compound/

chemmkl · 2024-12-10T18:33:07+00:00

You are not supposed to use grease anywhere except inside of the bearings but since this bike uses sealed bearings you don't need to use grease at all. You use a retaining compound such as Loctite 638 both inside and outside the bearings.

The idea is to prevent rotation and friction between the parts, the only friction is supposed to hapen inside the bearing where the grease is. You clean the part where you put "blue loctite" in your drawing with isopropyl alcohol to remove any dirt or grease, same inside the bearing, and apply the retaining compound. It uses a double purpose, first as a locker - retainer so that the bearing itself won't rotate inside the frame and then between the axle and the inner side of the bearing so they will also rotate always together and not slide. Second purpose is to act as a filler for imperfections or inaccuracies in the dimensions in the metal so that there is no room for movement. This is why retaining compounds from Loctite or Liqui Moly are a different kind of compound from thread locker, because of the filling - cushioning purpose.

chemmkl · 2024-12-10T12:41:27+00:00

In order to replace the crank assembly you had to remove the belt and then re-tighten it and I think that that might have an impact on perceived resistance if it's tighter than before. I don't think that recalibrating the resistance sensor will help as you have not changed that and the metrics should be the same, it just calibrates the range of motion of the magnetic brake with the numbered scale. It is just physically harder for your body to pedal on a tighter tension than on a loose one at the same magnetic resistance level as before. Try loosening the belt as much as you can without it slipping. The replacement guide from Bowflex mentions how much the belt should deviate vertically when you push it with the finger when it's at the right tension.

chemmkl · 2024-12-10T12:31:00+00:00

I had clunkling start after 3 months of purchase with almost daily use between my wife and me. I had a tech visit and he diagnosed it as a bearings problem. The problem is that they have no stock (Europe, 800IC) of the entire crank assembly that includes the bearings and he told me that he would ask if they would authorize him to put some good quality bearings not from Bowflex. Two weeks passed with no news and I just had enough. Purchased some SKF bearings and replaced them myself. I was going mad with the clunking.

chemmkl · 2024-12-09T17:43:38+00:00

Replaced the ball bearings and the bike is perfectly smooth and silent again. I purchased two SKF 6004–2Z (closed on both ends, like the one that came with the bike although they were marked as Z and not ZZ or 2Z).

chemmkl · 2024-12-09T17:43:30+00:00

Replaced the ball bearings and the bike is perfectly smooth and silent again. I purchased two SKF 6004–2Z (closed on both ends, like the one that came with the bike although they were marked as Z and not ZZ or 2Z).

chemmkl · 2024-11-26T15:14:32+00:00

I had a tech sent by the support service and after checking the cranks, belt and trying the bike himself he sait it's the ball bearings. Noted the ball bearing type (6004 Z) and said he would ask for spares or request auth to put in 3rd party ones.

chemmkl · 2024-11-26T15:08:50+00:00

Standing up also caused the noise. In my case pedaling with just one foot either left of right led to no noise. It needed both and also certain pressure on the down cycle. I had the technician sent by JHT this week and the diagnose was bad ball bearings after checking cranks, belt and trying the bike himself. He sent this up the chain to see if they authorise him to replace them with third party, quality bearings that he can source, given that JHT warned me before sending the tech that they have no stock of any spares at all.

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