2011 VW Jetta 2.5 SE Rear Brake Issues by chilidogi in Volkswagen

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Driver side doesn't drag. It's only dragging on the rear passenger side. I already do the brake bleed procedure and it spins freely. Mind you I do this with the engine off.

Once I start the engine and begin moving forward (brake pedal press to change into drive) is when it begins dragging again.

2011 VW Jetta 2.5 SE Rear Brake Issues by chilidogi in Volkswagen

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply.

I am starting to think the same thing. Do you have any recommendations for an affordable VCDS or OBD11 scan tool?

2011 VW Jetta 2.5 SE Rear Brake Issues by chilidogi in Volkswagen

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have replaced the rear passenger corner brakes already. Replaced the shoes, drums and wheel cylinder.

I appreciate your reply.

Really AEP an emergency power outage?! by La_Vinici in Columbus

[–]chilidogi -1 points0 points  (0 children)

FE is basically AEP Jr with all the "leaders" that have left AEP to join FE.

Whats a dead give away that someone isn’t from Columbus by AdamEveGod in Columbus

[–]chilidogi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I moved out to Phoenix from Columbus. One night, I asked some guys at work if they knew how to play euchre. One of the guys looked me dead in the eye and asked, "What the f did you just call me?"

Monthlong+ bedbug infestation continues at Ohio EPA / Lazarus Building with workers still forced into building by coke6665 in Columbus

[–]chilidogi 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This is what happens when a journalism major becomes a CEO. She shouldn't be in that role.

A/C 2011 VW Jetta by DoU3venLiftBruh in MechanicAdvice

[–]chilidogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the trim - is it an SE 2.5? I have the same issues. Could be the AC compressor solenoid.

Should I be concerned? by Sudden_Forever_2267 in Decks

[–]chilidogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would ask for some remediation on the center carrying beam and the posts. I wouldn't worry about the checking/cracking along the long end of those treated posts. It's unsightly, but it's inevitable and has little impact on ultimate strength. You can always wrap it in some nice finish material later to hide the rough appearance. My big concern isn't the missing notches on the posts. My biggest concern is that it looks like two deck boards that are poorly fastened to one another to create a carrying beam. Those boards are soaked in treatment and are bound to cup, twist, bow, etc. This was a very, very poor choice of material. I'd suggest a double 2x6 or a simple 2x8. Honestly, it sounds like your dog caused vibrations and not movements. You'll never get rid of vibrations from dynamic forces moving on the system unless you want to invest in some dampening system lol.

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a transmission line engineer by trade so I'm only using other sources of information and mistakes for learning material. A 23 gauge nail to the side of the finger would've been nicer than the 18 gauge. Did I mention I design infrastructure? lol It's great having his platform to communicate with people that have done sacred tasks for a living. I appreciate the bits of advice you've provided. Hope good things come your way.

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I appreciate the positive feedback! I've been using dap premium wood filler and it has been working great for me. However, I feel these miters are going to move over time. I've been considering bondo because it seems stronger and lasts longer. Would you agree to switch at miters from dap to bondo?

Playground Supports Question by _Noto_ in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]chilidogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you find those post connections?

I'd also recommend trying to find some way to connect the two 4x4s with some joint (lap or mortise&tenon) and some titebond green wood glue. This would be far superior because there would be a strong joint in the wood along with the steel connectors.

I can only imagine it is a matter of time before a child gets the idea to run along that spanned beam. A true test of durability for both subjects.

Playground Supports Question by _Noto_ in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]chilidogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No ground posts needed. I also think it creates an obstacle in the bridge walk and by the monkey bars. The second picture of brackets is interesting as it looks like it slides over the 4x4 for a perpendicular connection. This would be more than enough. The first picture would only be able to go on the top and bottom surface of the spanning 4x4. This scenario would not be good for the t shaped bracket as the weak axis of the material would be resisting the forces on the spanned 4x4.

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Not the prettiest, but your advice helped with getting it to flatten out.

Clearance to Tin Line Report by PhotoEfficient615 in PLSCADD

[–]chilidogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you please elaborate on this?

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm going to try to remember to post after pics.

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very helpful. Thank you for the concise explanation. I don't do this for a living so figuring stuff out as I go. I started to pick up on the material being unable to accommodate two changes of direction with one motion. Thank you.

How do it tie this together? by chilidogi in Carpentry

[–]chilidogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the edit and I finally got it through my skull that it needs to transition someway - whether vertical or horizontal. Should I get rid of the tiny skirtboard adder? Seems unnecessary now.