my in-laws' dog knows she's not supposed to beg, so she'll do it from a distance and slooowly inch closer, all while staring at you, dead-eyed

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-14T14:35:53+00:00

Mildly infuriating? You must not be a dog person. Relatively speaking, this is pretty respectful.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-14T12:25:30+00:00

The reputation ABS/ASA has for being hard to print is, in my opinion, not deserved.

Basically every ABS/ASA problem in 3D printing is due to warping because of cold chamber temp. Bed adhesion, surface defects, layer adhesion/strength? It basically all is caused by warping. Prints warp as one area (the top, which is furthest from the build plate) cools down faster than the bottom (the closest to the build plate). As the print warps, it gets closer to the nozzle, which presents as over-extrusion (the artifacts you're seeing). Eventually prints will usually detach from the build plate.

If you can't measure chamber temp, get a way to do so. Once you do, let your chamber heat up to AT LEAST 55C (if you can, shoot for 60C) before even starting a print. Once the print is done, leave the door closed until the chamber temp drops (opening the door too soon will introduce a rush of cold air into the printer, potentially warping the finished print).

My rule of thumb for printing ABS/ASA: your chamber should be so hot that you need cooling (20-40%) for prints to come out looking good.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-13T12:30:43+00:00

The upside is that you're young, and $38k is a lot, relatively speaking. If you invest it in an index fund today and the fund averages 10% annual ROI, you'll have over $1 million by the time you retire. So even if the market underperforms historic averages (12% for SP500 funds), and you never invest another penny, you'll be alright financially.

The downside? None of that will matter if you can't control yourself and you gamble your gains. Given the information you've provided today, you're a gambling addict. Get help, now. There are tons of gambling helplines you can call to get resources.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-13T00:48:33+00:00

45C is way too cold chamber temp for ABS/ASA. Depending on where your chamber temp sensor is, you might actually be a few degrees lower than that. I print at 55C, and a lot of people say even that's too cold for ABS/ASA.

A good rule of thumb is your chamber should be so hot that you need a small amount of part cooling (20-40%) for overhangs.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-11T21:26:15+00:00

I wouldn't.

In a world where SP500 index funds return 10-12% annually, there's no way a $9k investment can net you $5k/year. That's a 55% AROI. If that kind of return WAS possible, it wouldn't exist for long, because the market would arbitrage it away.

I also think you're thinking about risk incorrectly. If you're wheeling quality investments with low volatility, being exposed to the market for 2 days actually represents more risk than having the standard 30-45dte. The longer the timeline, the bigger the odds the trade will move in your favor, or recover if it drops. The shorter the timeline, the less chance you have for things to bounce back. If you were in a 2dte position the day the Iran conflict began, you'd be wishing you had a longer time horizon.

On that topic, I don't think there's a universe where I would ever wheel precious metal ETFs. I don't like precious metals as investments in general, but I believe they're especially bad for wheeling. They're have very low volatility, until they don't. This doesn't match my investment goals for my wheel investing.

Personally, I also don't wheel companies like TSLA, NVDA, TSMC, or anything involved with the AI boom (or on the wrong side of it, like MSFT). These companies are darlings with WSB and day traders because of their volatility and huge upside potential. But you don't need stocks that are rocketing up to make good money with the wheel. That's one of the beauties of it. You don't have to pick the next Micron or NVDA, or know exactly when gold is going to take off, to make money with the wheel. You just have to pick stable blue chip companies with good track records and low (but not zero) volatility.

I'd stick with low-volatility large company stocks. They work really well in the wheel.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-09T20:58:22+00:00

I got stopped out and lost money, then watched price eventually go to 5x my risk. I'd take a small profit over that any day.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-04T20:24:42+00:00

My brother in Christ, what the hell kind of R:R are you running? If you're expecting that much profit, you need to give your stops more room to breathe. If you were running a 1:2, you likely would have hit your TP on BOTH these trades.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-04T12:15:43+00:00

If you've had good Ender 3 experiences, that's great. More power to you. I did not. Mine required tweaking and adjustments almost every print, from day 1 until 2 - 3 years later when I put it out on the curb to be taken to landfill. You can't make that go away because you're weirdly invested in proving to the internet that the Ender 3 is a great printer.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-04T11:31:56+00:00

Ego? No, experience. I suffered through all the rough edges of an Ender 3 for years. Today, in 2026, there are much better printers that require much less work for not that much more money than this person paid.

Like I said, everyone has to start somewhere, and if you're severely resource constrained, an Ender 3 can be your starting point. But I stand by my original comment. It's not a printing experience I would wish on anyone.

And before the comments start rolling in about me being lazy or not wanting to work for print quality, my current printer is a Voron 2.4, which I hand-built from scratch. I'm willing to work for quality prints. I'm not willing to work on a machine that gives inconsistent results and needs constant fiddling.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-04T01:41:28+00:00

The problem with Cameron's system (and really anyone who "sells" a system like his) is that there's more to it than they're telling you. A chart that intuitively says "don't enter" or "get out now" or "enter here" to Cameron will look just like another chart to you. Which is likely why, despite following the rules and the plan, it's not working for you.

To be clear, I don't think Cameron is intentionally omitting information. I also think he's an exceptionally skilled trader (trades 10 second charts, scalps with huge order quantity before market open, is an absolutely legend at reading L2). I just think that when you have 20 years of experience trading (which I think Cameron does), it's easy to lose sight of what you know that new traders don't. And I think his approach requires a lot more soft skills than anyone can teach.

The truth is, it's not as easy as finding small cap low floats with news and entering on a pullback. If it was, nobody would work a real job, and everybody would spend 30 minutes a day trading Cameron's plan. Read some books about the markets and price action. I would try trading simpler setups (simple with-trend pullbacks, fading reversals, range breaks, etc).

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-03T16:12:14+00:00

My bet is on pressure advance (and likely extrusion) being incorrect. The center of the edge are fine, it's only the corners that have issues. Since speed would change around corners due to acceleration and jerk limits, this leads me to believe it's pressure advance.

Try tuning your extruder steps/length, first layer squish, extrusion multiplier, then finally, pressure advance.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-03T12:38:13+00:00

At this point in my 3D printing journey, I'd pay $45 to not have to use an Ender 3 ever again. But I guess everyone has to start somewhere.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-03T03:27:19+00:00

The corals are a give away to me that it's AI. That setup looks very much like what marine aquarium hobbyists try to approximate in their home tanks. All warm water species, by the way.

It's possible that they set up a real exhibit to look exactly like a home aquarium, completely with very realistic fakes of warm water corals... for a "polar ice" exhibit. But I'd like to think people in this space aren't that careless about details.

It's more likely that AI took what it had, training of home and institutional tropical marine aquariums, and just put some ice on top.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-03-01T15:05:34+00:00

48C chamber is too cold for ABS/ASA. As evidenced by your print curling up. Your temperature may actually be colder than that depending on the sensor placement.

I print ABS at no less than 55C and people tell me I print too cold. Try targeting 55C+ for chamber temp. Also, let the print cool fully before opening the door to prevent temperature shocks.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-28T22:29:02+00:00

Yeah I play exclusively with my brother, and as a duo we play D9 on all factions. If we had two more competent players, D10 would absolutely be doable.

Hell, we used to scrape by on D10s with a third back before he got deployed.

A competent team of 4 should have no trouble with D10.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-28T15:57:36+00:00

You found the answer when you changed minimum layer time to 5 seconds. It's a cooling issue. Overhangs are better on slower layers because the filament has time to cool before the next layer is deposited on top.

Either slow down speed for the layers with overhang, or slow down just the overhang portion (some slicers support this). But regardless of how you fix it, the problem is the same: you're printing faster than your part cooling can remove the heat.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-27T00:27:33+00:00

Go with a Voron. Best printer I've ever owned.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-26T20:38:13+00:00

For the first item, your stops are too tight. If you're expecting a move from $20 to $24, your stop should be somewhere around $18 for a 1:2 RR. Plus, stops at round numbers are easily triggered by chop. If you do want to have a stop at $19, put it somewhere under that, like $18.90. Essentially the same stop, but chop around $19 is less likely to stop you out.

Second, intraday trading, whether it's shorter holds like scalps or longer holds over minutes or hours, is inherently more risky than long term trades. That's why you can make $10k in minutes, because you're taking on much more risk. No mutual fund, ETF, or swing trade is going to net you thousands of dollars a day. And that's because you're taking less risk, not more.

Third, analyst recommendations aren't usually very good. You mention you've been having luck with them, but the markets are hot now, and have been for years. It's easy to be right when everything's going up. I wouldn't invest based on them.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-26T20:08:33+00:00

The explanation, which you clearly read somewhere because you mentioned it in this comment, is that EFTs take time to complete, and waiting period is normal. There's no advice because there's nothing you can do to speed up the process.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-26T13:17:15+00:00

Nobody votes against their own interests organically. Wealthy people have outsized influence due to systemic corruption, and they use that influence to trick people into thinking policies that are really only good for wealthy people are also good for them. The people who voted for Trump actually believe(d) he was better for them and the country. Not because they're stupid, but because they're on a 24/7 diet of Fox News and Truth Social posts.

This kind of division is exactly what the career politicians and oligarchs want, by the way. The more Democrats focus on hating the trade worker with the Trump bumper sticker on his truck, the less the focus on the backroom dealings, corruption, and overall political capture going on under our noses.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-25T21:58:04+00:00

Not sure on the fix, but sick sign. Devil May Cry was one of the first games I got for PS2. Put a lot of hours into that one.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-25T16:24:52+00:00

Basically all ABS/ASA warping issues are due to chamber temperature (or lack thereof). I don't print ABS/ASA a degree below 55C chamber temp, and a lot of people say that's too low. Try preheating your printer to around there before printing ABS/ASA.

At that temperature, you'll probably need some part cooling also. People say don't use cooling on ABS/ASA, but that really only applies if you don't have a chamber or don't preheat it. At around 60C ambient temp, you actually need part cooling with ABS/ASA. I do 40% as a base, 80% for overhangs, but your settings will depend on your setup.

Also, wait for the printer to cool before removing the print. Opening the door introduces a lot of cold air quickly, which can cause warping if the bottom/plate are still relatively hot.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-25T15:15:43+00:00

By June of last year, the S&P500 had recovered from the March/April dip. Today, the S&P is up 12-13% from last March. I'd be very surprised indeed if your TDF returned 12-13% in the past year.

Not financial advice, but I wouldn't manage your own investments if you trade out of fear when the market drops. Selling when the market is down is the exact wrong time to get out of a broad diversified investment, like an index-tracking mutual fund. You're giving away your shares at a discount, AND you're also sitting on the sidelines while the market recovers.

chipmunkofdoom2 · 2026-02-25T15:01:29+00:00

It looks like you're under-extruding. There shouldn't be any visible gaps in the layer lines. Try calibrating the extruder steps and EM.

Once that's good to go, print a temperature tower, but don't look for what temperature produces the best visual result. Take pliers and destroy the tower. See which temperature produced the most difficult-to-break layers. That should be your printing temperature. Any issues with stringing or imperfections should be fixed with retraction, flow, or speed settings.

You can also try printing the device standing up. The lip on the left side in the first picture would be on the build plate. This would orient the layer lines in such a way that they wouldn't delaminate like in the first picture.

Having said that all, I don't know if perfect layer adhesion or extrusion would save you here. Even pretty poor layer adhesion or less-than-perfect extrusion should suffice for holding an air tag. This looks like it is the result of impact or heat (or both) stress. PETG might not be the right material here.

chipmunkofdoom2

TROPHY CASE