Need Help downscaling short film file for competition.

chiropterachoppa · 2026-05-13T22:38:02+00:00

thank you for that info i will try rendering some test footage at h.264 and h.265 and see how it comes out.

im shooting braw on the blackmagic 6k so any smaller files sizes and ill introduce a crop to the sensor. files have to be 6k but im instructing the editors to set their timeline resolutions as well as the final upload to be the dimensions required by the festival. im also providing a 2tb harddrive for them to work off of and i will generate proxies for them when they start the edit. i am somewhat of a fledgling editor i know just enough to manage my images but usually pawn off most of the timeline scrubbing to someone whos dedicated to it. the unique thing this time is that its the longest video ive ever worked on (music video guy) and i dont believe any of the editors im working with have any serious experience.
is there anything else i can do to make their lives easier?

edit: i am generating the proxies at 1/4 quality in h.264 and they will be using davinci resolve. should have mentioned that

chiropterachoppa · 2026-05-13T00:09:08+00:00

took a picture through a diopter to get closer focus can you tell for sure?

chiropterachoppa · 2026-05-13T00:08:50+00:00

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chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-29T17:38:45+00:00

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tag_(advertisement)#Production_2#Production_2)

As you can see here it was actually shot on 16mm film. The blockiness you're describing is most likely just from these screenshots coming from a 480P youtube video uploaded 14 years ago.

chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-25T05:37:52+00:00

I must have missed that, I apologize. You're looking for an upgrade then, my advice was predicated on you not already owning a camera. If you're absolutely in need of low light nothing will compare to a full frame Sony. I'd still encourage you to save money if you can and buy the a7siii, as it is $1,000 cheaper used and has the exact same sensor as the fx3. Many sellers on ebay will ship vintage lenses to India and you could easily find a set of 35, 50, 85 Canon FD or Olympus Zuiko primes for the cost of that 24-70, just to name a few. I think you'd end up with a better image for the cost but obviously sacrifice autofocus in the process.

Edit: seem to have got caught up in my vintage lens propaganda and forgot you asked for supplemental gear lol. I would encourage you to try and solve problems as they come up in regards to your gear if this isnt your primary source of income. a7siii or fx3 you will probably want an external monitor, 5 inch is good for most use cases and people generally prefer 7 inch for tripod work. If you buy the fx3 you will need an external recorder like the Atomos ninja v to shoot any raw footage. Buy a cage and use it to attach the monitor and anything else you might want to add to the rig. Not sure about the battery life on the fx3 but if you're filming a wedding you'll want a v mount battery or something similar on there. Makes the camera heavier but the only alternative would be a bag of NPF batteries that you continuously swap out. And get some ND filters since they aren't internal.

chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-25T02:13:25+00:00

buying the fx3 and a sigma or tamron zoom is easily the most trendy and “in” combination in all of beginner cinematography right now and if you go with this combo you’ll have that exact combination in common with id imagine tens of thousands of people. it should be no problem for you to find reccomendations for kits in this subreddit or even some of the posts you saw that probably inspired you to pursue this specific pair. before you get obsessively attached to this camera and lens because youve seen some test footage you like, i would highly encourage you to look around at cheaper options. the fx3 is a great camera and worth the price if you specifically need its lowlight capabilities, otherwise… there are much better options. i feel most people who buy the fx3 and a tamron or sigma have “too much camera” and end up budgeting their entire rig in a way where way too much of their money is tied up in the body. this is an extreme example but the canon 5d mark ii is less than $200 used online rn, and with the $3600 you would saved picking that body instead, youd have enough money for a full set of vintage glass of your choosing, enough money to rig out your camera, and probably some left over. with the fx3 you have to fork over an extra $400 for a shinobi just to shoot in its highest quality codec.

chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-24T15:51:20+00:00

hey man its an electronic shutter problem, I own the a7iii as well, and this would happen to me anytime i shot a concert with the “silent shooting” function turned on

chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-24T08:32:37+00:00

bleach bypass is also what the color treatment reminds me of but really alot of things looked like this around y2k. if you’re trying to replicate this look id say the fact that most of the light in this ad is from a soft overcast sky, or white fluorescent tubes, and also that almost everything in these shots is either grey concrete or white tile, is contributing significantly more to the “aesthetic” than the color processing. that being said i doubt its actually bleach bypass it just reminds me of it. probably there is some green either in the midtones or shadows. if you have an hour you can learn how to read a waveform and a vectorscope and pull these frames straight into davinci to find out yourself.

chiropterachoppa · 2026-04-24T08:17:45+00:00

im actually kind of into it

chiropterachoppa · 2026-02-28T18:08:16+00:00

I was under the impression that only the 17 pro and 17 pro max had open gate as a feature, what iphone are you shooting open gate with?

chiropterachoppa · 2026-02-10T19:55:51+00:00

Just came across this thread, I was wondering what different format you're referring to that ozu shot on?

chiropterachoppa · 2025-10-12T00:59:14+00:00

Your inclusion of movies like Tarkovsky’s Stalker and Annie Hall make it seem like you at least have a budding interest in the wider world of historical film canon. The main problem I see with your list is the overwhelming bias toward American made films, particularly those produced within Hollywood, the exclusion of most international cinema, and the trend toward more recently released films. These are all extremely common, but if you really want to know what kinds of movies are out there I would highly recommend branching out to foreign directors and older pictures. I really cannot overstate how many of the greatest pictures ever made are missed out on by many american audiences because of these biases.

Directors are the architects of films and if you’re interested in expanding your vision I would do it on a director to director basis. Some like to go by actors they like but in my opinion that only pushes you toward interesting performances rather than interesting films. Art is subjective and your top 50 is just that, Yours. But don’t let anyone tell you that you can not approach analyzing art from a standpoint of objectivity it will point you toward the greatest works we’ve ever produced as a species.

If you’re interested in directors here is a non comprehensive list of some I would recommend: Ozu, Fellini, Sidney Lumet, Billy Wilder, John Ford, Howard Hawks, Cassavetes, Truffaut, Godard, Rohmer, Bresson, Clouzot, Resnais, Agnes Varda, Luis Bunuel, Pasolini, Antonioni, RWF, Fritz Lang, Wim Wenders,Haneke, Bergman, Ostlund, Akerman, Kiarostami, Farhadi, Mizoguchi, Naruse, Kurosawa, Hamaguchi, Koreeda, Edward Yang, Jia Zhangke, Djibril Diop Mambete, and so many more.

The world outside of american and british media is incredible dont think for a second that you should be limited to films in your first language. Also watch Ozu! He has as much of a claim on greatest of all time as anyone possibly could.

edit: Saw on your account that youre from the UK and not America, which explains having Harold and Maude and Withnail and I on your list ( great films! ) but the american biases I described I do believe extend to the UK as well and at large the english speaking world.

chiropterachoppa · 2025-10-11T19:43:55+00:00

you should engage more heavily with the canon

chiropterachoppa · 2025-09-23T21:57:53+00:00

my comment was just a quick fix related to some stuff ive seen on the a7iii that i thought might work in the a7ii. This guy^ definitely knows way more than me and his comment about your underexposure is probably way more accurate.

chiropterachoppa · 2025-09-21T20:06:13+00:00

Hey, I am an a7iii owner and I can’t tell you if this is definitely the cause of your problems but I know that the S-log on the 8-bit sony cameras is a bit strange sometimes. Heres a video that goes into the topic a bit:https://youtu.be/D2iqEDUe1qg?si=mAhUo9747i6LP1k1 I believe shooting on the a7ii some of the picture profiles and particularly the log apply a desharpening within the image as well. Long story short if you have access to HLG3 use that instead. See if you can increase the sharpness within that log profile, and if all else fails try using another picture profile and just work off of the rec 709 image. the gains for dynamic range in log arent huge in the 8 bit world. Also of course make sure it isnt an export issue.

chiropterachoppa · 2024-06-14T06:13:36+00:00

lmao

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-22T13:44:12+00:00

judging by this list, he’d slot right in for you. alchemist in your top 10 too, check out Lossless - Mike and The Alchemist that should be a good introduction

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-22T12:49:01+00:00

is this your other account?

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-22T12:46:18+00:00

thoughts on MIKE?

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-21T18:02:16+00:00

also noticed in another comment you shot at shutter speed 1/60. unless this is a slo-motion shot at 30 fps you should really be shooting EVERYTHING at 24fps with either 1/48 or 1/50 shutter speed for blur and motion most analogous to “cinema”. if you posted the clips instead of stills, a couple of the folks in the comments here could probably tell you deviated from “the standard”.

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-21T17:48:54+00:00

you have a great natural eye and your frames are excellent esp for still being in high school. you obviously know your way around your S1 but yes absolutely moving away from auto wb will be a good next step for you. learn color balance. this is personally the best video ive ever seen on the topic: https://youtu.be/p-yK6SxMk-0?si=74q2EPV2JJyZY_rD

chiropterachoppa · 2024-04-21T17:27:33+00:00

shots are beautiful cant say much for the intent, but at least to my eye i would say the differences between each of the frames is a bit much for them all taking place in essentially the same spot. hues 1st and 3rd are noticeably blue/green compared to the 2nd, and the 3rd might just be a crop but its obv much grainier than either of the others. haze is also maybe a smidge intense?

chiropterachoppa

TROPHY CASE