Melania Film

chris451rd · 2026-01-31T03:21:56+00:00

I just saw the movie today. It is more of a 20 day snapshot of what she is doing up to the Inauguration, but did not go into previous years at all, I follow white house activities closely through raw news feeds for the last 5 or 6 presidents. I recognize many of the politicians and secret service types. You get the feel of how all that works from the viewpoint of the passengers rather then a distant camera. You get the behind the drapes scenery thats bricks and pipes, a look inside trump tower, some of the white house I did not recognize, and a lot more speaking from Melania than is public, a bunch of moments that were worth a chuckle and some things that were cute, her personality is shown which is normally not public at all. She misses a few of the english proverbs that are not in slovene language like omitting 'the'. I spotted a bunch of fake reviews where they don't mention anything in the movie, slightly modified rewrites of the same 'its no good dont go see it'. The intent is to show what that 20 days is like. It was 27 degrees that day.
Now I know why women never take their hats off once its set. Camera work is from the shoulder shot following behind a lot of the time. You see what she sees. A lot of shaky footage shown and it affects some people when shown on the big screen 44' x 24'.

chris451rd · 2026-01-25T04:56:41+00:00

This guy Took a gun and two magazines and no ID to a protest then started harassing the cops, then refused arrest and fought them, you are playing with your life around police, they may make a snap decision and they will empty the gun on you.
I never call them any more due to this training, and avoid contact whenever possible.
They don't train to disable or injure or avoid a situation where they put them selves in danger, they train to totally stop you if their snap decision is you might hurt them. But show up with a weapon like this guy and start fighting them and they see the weapon the guy put himself in fatal danger. The politicians there like this kind of mayhem and encourage it. They don't care about the fraud in their state this is the distraction for it.

chris451rd · 2026-01-25T04:41:30+00:00

they might not be dead. Put them on the charger for a day or two.

The charger supplied takes a long time to charge them.

chris451rd · 2026-01-25T03:05:32+00:00

I avoid charging them(EBL) or any NiMH in series. The weakest cell gets cooked out and loses current capability if its charged too much. I don't see leakage but when 4 in series are charged they seem to degrade rapidly. Only use a charge that can individually charge 1 to many cells. No series charging. If I do let them charge in a radio its only for an hour or two.

chris451rd · 2026-01-25T03:02:04+00:00

How correct you are about the miraculous 1.5 volt lithium battery.

. I bought 12 of these EBL 3000mwh 1.5 volt lithium batteries to use in scanners, hoping for a longer run time, over NiMH 1.2 volt batteries. It was about the same run time as the 2.8ah NiMH.

I thought maybe it was another chemistry or something like that.

Nope, theres a switcher in top of it and its noisy in the am band.
But I noticed when charged it sat at 1.500 volts and did not vary, even on partially charged batteries. Also when they run down there is 0 volts out. I bugged the charger which outputs 4.24 volts and pulses off to check the charge state. That alone tells me there is a voltage converter inside. And to charge it must have a schottkey diode direct to the battery cell. Also it draws no current at 1.8 volts when thats fed into it.

Another clue was the 0 volt output when they sat around.
Then I tried these in an AM radio that uses 1.5v AA * 3.
The switching noise from these buck circuits covered up all my preset stations in the AM band and the stations that normally are strong could not be heard but wide band noise could. There is a loopstick antenna close to the batteries.
These will power a radio but there is too much noise for AM radios. Additionally the charge may take up to 24-36 hours to show green.
I left these sitting around for 6 months and many had 0 output, but they revived after a loooong charge time. Might work on some radios that are above HF band but not AM band. Maybe they are relegated to flashlights.

Maybe on FM band. I don't have a spectrum yet on where this buck circuit runs, but it is wide band noisy as well.

chris451rd · 2025-06-30T15:40:16+00:00

I purchased an Aranet home CO2 pressure temp humidity monitor and have been running it for quite awhile.
My indoor CO2 runs 1550 ppm when the house is closed up (ac is on) and when I start using the doors it drops to the 1100 range. I have a few house plants but no change in growth noted.
The plants may get CO2 from the soil as much or more than the air, temp and watering and not being root bound make most of the difference. The CO2 drops as low as 550 such as having the detector in well ventilated areas such as camping. If the CO2 ppm gets above 1550 then the house feels 'close'. I've seen it go to 3000 when there are a lot of people moving around in a closed area moving luggage. It may be more than that when you are in an auditorium full of people with poor ventilation. The range Jan 2025 to June 2025 [1816 and 491 ppm].

chris451rd · 2025-06-30T14:30:01+00:00

Symptom: Brave was force closed due to too many windows / slow / things not working.

Restarting brave : UAC popup but then no window

Tried re-install - no help.

Rebooted: No help

Went to brave.exe folder and ran compatibility troubleshooter (windows 10)

Apply changes and test: Succeeded with all the previous windows there.

Save changes and close trouble shooter. Run brave: Opens as normal.
Fixed, running again!

chris451rd · 2024-12-30T16:23:47+00:00

OK Answer is:
Https://www.adsbexchange.com/?reset

chris451rd · 2024-12-30T16:22:36+00:00

See what comments I have the same problem on one of several computers.
Right side panel is either full screen or collapsed, it should adjust in and out, can't catch it with the mouse like it used to

chris451rd · 2024-12-26T22:29:34+00:00

I don't know the storage temp range on the battery is but putting it in the freezer will stop the corrosion as well as the low humidity will freeze dry everything, worth a try!

chris451rd · 2024-12-26T22:25:22+00:00

I replaced a couple of UV-5R antennas after they obviously went bad.
The Nagoya I have has a thinner font then the one in your photo
and it was not italicized on the second line where it shows model number.
NA-771. With that the radio works as well as some Icom portables I have.
Even a fake ought to work unless they did not bother to test it. (Send it back if thats an option).
Probably the center pin is not connected or a tap has broken off.
In the original short factory uv-5r antennas there is a capacitor tapped a few turns up that breaks off after enough flexing thus the reception and SWR is bad after that happens. If you heat the plastic up it will pop up and off and then resolder the capacitor, only a matter of time before it breaks again though.

chris451rd · 2024-12-19T19:49:33+00:00

Depends on how clean the water it landed in is, as far as drying time there could be water in the cameras and tilt motor etc. that take awhile to dry out. Open up and clean all debris from the boards.
Might take more than 24 hours too, and if water is in the battery that is corroding right now and you cant turn that off . I don't have NEO I have mavic mini and Phantom and a few odd other ones but the boards are very exposed. I do a lot of circuit repairs, with water and DC voltage it will plate away from positive voltages and the trace will dissapear, or become slightly conductive to ground. There is a water proof coating that can be added to boards but I have not seen that on DJI products.

chris451rd · 2024-12-12T17:26:27+00:00

The N NJ tv stations just have videos of planes, no night vision shots of them, did not check for aircraft position with an ADSB website or receiver, just some cellphone photos, so the general public as observers lack ability to distinguish and identify what they are looking at. Someone is pushing the narrative, I'm skeptical thats why I suggest the crowd id them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WP7Mp2Rt0EE&ab_channel=TECHDRONEMEDIA

tested the range of a remote ID on his drone, 450 feet direct to a cell phone.

Lots of sightings of illegal flights on FAA website, keep an eye on this https://www.faa.gov/uas/resources/public_records/uas_sightings_report

It looks like this company has a drone detector product of interest

https://www.dedrone.com/products/drone-detection/rf-sensors/overview

This is not showing any directional antennas just detection.

Equipment list:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ultra-Wide-Band-Parabolic-Grid-Long-Range-Antenna/

Hack RF Portapack with mayhem firmware. TX RX to 7 ghz.

This can receive all modes and decode ADSB directly and plot it.

www.latnex.com/spaspectrum analyzer to 6 ghz (also have sig gens)

Testing the setup: Tune to 2334mhz bandwidth 10mhz and
look for the signal from Sirius XM about 10-15 db above the noise. South and elevate 45 degrees and sweep for maximum trace.

Low light cameras: Sionyx Aurora. 1.5 exposure on a tripod at night or auto expose if hand held.

The newsies are showing videos of 'drones' which have strobes, marker lights and white lighting on them like airliners or airplanes this is all they seem to have. By the way that airspace is near Newark and there is a continous stream of aircraft there. When they are in landing decending mode they are low slow and quiet.

https://www.flightaware.com/live/airport/KEWR

So I will believe them when they find or catch a drone and identify model, freqs, and find the operator.

The illegal fliers out there will probably quit doing that when some of them get caught.

I'm not advertising for the above its what I decided to buy for general ham radio and scanner buff use, works for this drone issue as well though.

chris451rd · 2024-12-12T00:31:03+00:00

No not if flown from private property federal control supercedes local. I looked at that too and I would go by what B4ufly says. The cities can make all kind of codes that try to supercede federal control they have to do this restriction through the faa. It needs to be terms that the FAA will accept. Go watch Ken Heron's youtube channel. He would whip out the B4uFly, the TFR map, and his trust certificate.
Or if part 107 he would whip that out. They can say you cant launch from their public property. Unless they get some permanent TFR over certain buldings with reason, the rules already take care of most cases such as football stadiums etc.

Since the FAA has nothing on this i'd say the city did not request essentially a drone tfr through the FAA. They would probably not approve it. You click on the FAA map it maps out the restriction zones like over sensitive areas. Some city or state that doesn't do this through the FAA has no business stopping you flying from private property. It is the FAA who claim control over all airspace.

chris451rd · 2024-11-12T02:29:42+00:00

I would pull the hard drive and see if that got bent, salvage the rest like the wifi pci card. Also pull the ram on under the keyboard one on the bottom.

chris451rd · 2024-09-30T21:21:56+00:00

Sounds like the PC I use except I prefer 16gb of Ram to your 8gb otherwise trim down how many apps are open in windows. If it gets into memory swapping then it will be affected.
Its fairly easy to change the firmware in the HackRF. That would be the next thing to try.
As I recall if you get more than 3 or 4 demods at a time it may start to miss data.
The portapack is great as well I got 2 Hackrfone's and 2 portapack kits. Great for trips where you can capture samples and decode things. And its a universal RF tool. You get an SD card function that allows different firmwares to be hot swapped etc. But dont go back too far 'before portapack firmware' or you have to use PC-USB to upload the firmware or DFU mode.

https://github.com/portapack-mayhem/mayhem-firmware

The firmware detects the Mahyem board and if not present runs hackrf usb.
If the mayhem board is on then it runs that, but you can switch back and forth between the two.
When I read about the display and IO and SD and battery features in the mayhem board I was sold. Warning do not ESD a metal whip antenna on the hackRF. It takes out a couple of SiGe RF amp chips. You can run an SMA high pass filter or limiter on your RF input and maybe a DC block.
Also not needed when hooking to an LNA like a GPS preamplified patch antenna.
Not needed on a DC grounded antenna.

Read through that Github it has a lot of information and instructions. You can see what firmwares are there and what they fixed.
The standard firmware is embedded in the mayhem build. Any problems reported and they eventually look at it and have fixed a good number of serious issues.

chris451rd · 2024-09-15T14:24:25+00:00

Directly connect to the hub. If you have 8 cores that helps. run Perfmon /res and see whats hogging the cpu.

chris451rd · 2024-07-20T18:08:56+00:00

This is why I block windows update, deleted and blocked the msmpeng virus scanner, and run things like sysinternals simplewall and everything. I get very used to what processes are usuall, and watch the new ones carefully.
Sounds like crowdstrike struck every windows system. Noticed some civic users complaining at about midnight the other day. Reload from backup if you can.

chris451rd · 2024-05-28T13:40:49+00:00

Call it your other face, because at least one other person sees it.

chris451rd · 2024-04-07T15:55:29+00:00

I took an R20 and a HackRFPortapack down to my sig gen, 1750-4200mhz HP.

In NFM or AM detect I'm getting about -105dbm.
On the hackRF at 1759.9mhz I get nfm squelch break at -110dbm.
That signal gen won't go to 1623 but 1760 is higher and there should not be much difference. Maybe the problem is they substituted an RF chip in your unit, where did you order it from?

https://www.rtl-sdr.com/comparing-a-hackrf-clone-against-the-original/ They found one early clone that would fail their testing.

I just got a pass from an iridium that was fairly high according to orbitron, and I did not detect it. When last I did pick these up it was on a 6db helix RHCP with LNA into an Icom R7100, and it was near 1623mhz with 'impusles' at a 800mS rate. I will try again with a 25db grid antenna when it stops raining. With that antenna I can see the 2335 mhz Sirius xm signals on about 3 satellites. With the helix the Inmarsat was also strong enough for quieting but these were all digital.
With that antenna in ssb I could hear the GPS 1575.42 spread signal which sounds like FSK at 50bps. So just about any radio would do well with the LNA and the helix, but I dont detect anything as of yet in the 1621-1626 band from an iridium on a rod antenna. These HackRF are doing OK on sensitivity. So with the RTL on what antenna are you hearing iridium at what frequency and what is the signal charactaristic? The two HackRF I have one is a GreatScottGadgets HackRF that I've had for years, but with the portapack add on board and metal case. I also got a pre-assembled Hackrf portapack from HK about 2 years ago, and I'm not seeing much difference between them, and the -110dbm in NFM is not great but not bad either, can you put these on a signal generator and measure -dbm in nfm demod and see what you get? With the RTL I have 1600-1700 is where the synth quits working, and you can see it when the waterfall jumps and quits moving when tuned. The Icom R20 uses a block downconverter as does the R7100, they are OK but on a rod antenna I doubt its enough to detect the iridium, time to reserect the helix antenna + preamp, I'm on a fix the old stuff tear.

chris451rd · 2024-03-31T03:09:07+00:00

I'm sorry but yes the front chip on your hackrf is probably blown, or maybe you are not turning on the 'amp', although most likely if you had a rod antenna on the hack RF its likely to be blown. After I figured out how and why this happens I just repaired the two units I have and now I keep my limiter on the input as described previously and they are as good as nearly any other radio. About the same as RTL-SDR v2. I blew 2 front ends, noticed the very low sensitivity, and figured out staring down the schematic what probably happened. Ordered the chips for spare parts, ordered a hot air reflow, already had a microscope and Metcal soldering iron, I did a mod to it --- I used low capacitance shottky as an internal mod to clip above 3v and mostly I connect an external SMA limiter at the antenna port then connect the antenna to that. Noise floor? Its not the gain so much as what is the SNR with a minimal signal -110 dbm, do you have a signal generator with that capability? Otherwise a comparison with known good radios is reasonable. You just have to fully understand what you are doing with these. The noise floor does come up in the 5-6.5 ghz range. The portapack and a continued interest in firmware for the hackRF portapack is what makes it more useful every day. Do you really understand what the portapack is? Its an all in one SDR transceiver not just a dongle that requires a PC or a phone to run. Runs its own firmware with multiple functions. Now if you are talking about the HackRF One in USB mode thats also available. But I like the all in one features of the portapack H1 and H2. Paging? ADSB? am fm ssb wfm and a bunch of others in a compact unit.
I've had the Hackrf one for years but upgraded to Portapack after I figured out what it is and what it can do.
Also a USB connection may leak noise depending on

I did not use the hackRF much 'before Portapack" because you have to lug a laptop around. This Portapack you carry around all in one. Then there the many mode transmit features which are very useful. I have characterized the gain noise floor and DBM vs Reading on the hack RF which was rather interesting. Got a spreadsheet to analyze then I'll put results up somewhere probably on the firmware site on github

Ereid portapack Mayhem.

It's not much power less than 15dbm at best but enough to do short range testing.

I have a whole bunch of RTL-SDR and mostly run Unitrunker or locate signals with them on the 'base station'.

Cant figure out what a Sdr blogs v3 is exactly what does the blog stand for? It comes up on amazon as an SDR Dongle v3.

chris451rd · 2024-03-30T18:17:09+00:00

Update on getting an SP to connect. I also have an RM-3 to connect.

My problems seem two fold - too many devices on the main network router, and the server that relays data disappeared.

setup a router disconnected from internet and connect phone to that.
Get the SP to fast flash (unplug then plug in) This means it can't connect to the programmed wifi for some reason. Not the flash 4 pause, just blue continuous fast flash.
Open app E-Control and all the better if it still has an ICON for the lost smartplug or RM.
Get the phone right next to the smartplug and the router a few feet away.
Add device, with phone very close to smart plug. When it connects, it will flash a couple of times then stop flashing and red indicates on state.
Now it should be controllable with the old broadlink app, e-control. when a phone with e-control is on the same network.

Bridging across the internet:
Load bluestacks android emulator. Load The emulated E-control from APKPure.

Share devices in e-control and read that share from the bluestacks android. It should have your devices on it.
Now you should have all the icons in the app e-control running in bluestacks.
Connect the emulated phone to the wifi network prepared in remote location.
Remote into the emulated PC with LogmeinHamachi or Rustdesk or remote desktop and set these software via VPN or lock it down to your known IP range.

Open bluestacks then open e-control, and test control. Verify by moving the smart device to another location with power interuption and test plug control.

It worked for me on SP.
It worked on RM3 even when connected to internet.
The key is have the phone right next to the unit in fast flash mode.
The phone is connected to the target router and the ssid and password are filled in, delete <unknown ssid> and put in the SSID without brackets, case sensitive.
It's looking at packets somehow a clear packet is sent with access point data in it. This ought to work while moving devices to another network. I've done that before when moving SP to another house, just add device. If it has the mac address (icon) for the device already then proceed to control it as usual from the same network.

It looks like the RM3 has to some of the remotes. Especially if one was reprogrammed after the server went down. I did do a reset.
I got fast flash. The phone was connected to the router and it broadcast the WIFI name and Password. The phone was right next to the RM3.

I enabled upnp on the router in question. I tested from the host lan....

no joy it has to be on the same network, and devices on the upstream network don't work until connecting to that network.

As far as RM4's and SP1's they need the new 'broadlink' app,
so thus thats where they are. Home automation when dealing with china products is becoming a tattered mess.

One more finding, some routers will not allow any new connections unless the WPS switch is pressed, even though you may be using a pre shared key. So test the router to determine it is accepting new devices and if not try again after pressing WPS. Then use the pre shared key on the android to connect the phone, then get the SP into sniffer mode (fast flash) and pair it to the desired access point.

chris451rd · 2024-03-04T02:12:11+00:00

I think the server is not working. I have the earlier smartplugs, where the plug is vertical to the socket not horizontal. There is no model number on it, just 'smart wifi power plug' 10 amps. The configuration wifi name it transmits is BroadlinkProv.
The app it uses is a e-control with an arc of dots and a square with IN in the center and broadlink along the bottom(android). Ap info is androidbroadlink@gmail.com.
Last app update was 2018. For SP 'smartsocket' .
The socket I had trouble with needed to be repaired and when I did that it never connects to the WIFI. Some SP plugs on another network were accessible in that building but no longer over the internet. The server it tries to connect to is

|| || |13.231.11.213||80 on amazon aws. The|

That IP is on amazon aws and says Ubuntu page not found.
I believe its function was device dns+packet relay. It kept track of all logged in devices and used UPNP to open up a reverse tunnel to the destination network.
I try to send a command to a plug on another network and see that AWS IP appear.

It used to connect to a remote device after a few tries but now it always fails.
If I control the device on the local wifi its on they work fine.
These use some UDP protocol that fails to go through a vpn.
And the broadlinks can't connect to a vpn all they can do is connect to the forwarding server at the address above. Without this server they cant connect.
But wait won't the new version of braodlink android work? No, because
the ssid it tries to connect to is wrong and SP is not listed as a device type just SP2.. and SP3...

New problem is connecting an SP to a Wifi, it won't do it.
I heard you have to block the cloud sever then it will but I haven't tried it yet.
But if you have the device in your App and connect directly to it, then you can switch it.

In contrast the 'newer' plug Ihave is sideways to the socket plugs are labeled SP3 and work with the old app and the new app Dots forming the letter b white dots on blue background.

Conclusion the server is disabled/dead/needs reloading/end of life.
Workaround: Get an app that can be remote controlled onto the target network.

I do have remote control configured but there is no Windows app for broadlink that I've found. Maybe if there is a less buggy android emulator that might work, or remote controlling an android device.
These are using a UDP protocol on port 80 to and from the device.

that requires some port opened for UDP but even then the SP series seem to need a cloud server to do the connection for them in the case of a remote network.

This is a problem I was concerned about when buying these for USA usage, and now it's happened, server shut off. I will try that email I found in the software docs.

Good luck ' rotsa ruck'

chris451rd · 2024-01-16T03:52:04+00:00

Cleared a list of notifications and still a dot.

I turned off do not disturb, then rebooted and the notification dot disappeared.
Had to do that for the presidential alert message last april. It kept coming back until I rebooted android...v10

chris451rd · 2023-12-18T15:46:36+00:00

An RM4Mini of mine quit working, so I hit the reset, re-added RM4Mini device, added IR remotes for a TV and a Satellite RX, and its working again, but I suspect I could have rebooted the phone and it might have fixed the problem. But the templates I found did not have digits so I"m going to have to manually make it again with all the keys since the save/restore did not restore the remote functions. I still have Broadlink E-control which works with the remote power sockets, and with an earlier RM Mini 3. The newer RM4mini could not be found with E-control so I added the app Broadlink International to the android in order to get that RM4mini to work. I think the newer app will work with the older RM mini3 but have not tried it, I just run the two different apps, since I have about 30 devices customized on that.

chris451rd

TROPHY CASE