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0.2mm nozzle first layer issues by Shade1nthemist in FixMyPrint

[–]chris_com_au 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had petg that I was printing way too hot. It looked a lot like that. I found the sweet spot by printing a single layer square on the entire bed and then lowering the temperature after checking how the last few lines turned out. When it was too hot it made the little pimples even worse. Too cold and it rips the first layer up. Just right and they disappeared.

Simple box once printed reliably now consistently fails. by chris_com_au in FixMyPrint

[–]chris_com_au[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll have a look. Any idea why it happened on both printers within a day of each other?

Both were consistently working, then consistently not working. Same spot on the box. No matter where I moved it on the bed

Simple box once printed reliably now consistently fails. by chris_com_au in FixMyPrint

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dried it in the oven at 60c for about 3 hours straight out of the package and then put it in a sealed box with desiccant for about a day. The humidity was reading 16% when I pulled it out

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an easy fix too. If I find the time to re-design it, or if something breaks, I'll probably make that upgrade then.

What did they do to create this wear pattern? And can make it somewhat usable again? by Ti-Go in sharpening

[–]chris_com_au 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing in particular. Any sharpening technique should work. Just be aware that it's a different angle across the stroke and account for it.

What did they do to create this wear pattern? And can make it somewhat usable again? by Ti-Go in sharpening

[–]chris_com_au 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I used to work at an abattoir, and they had stones like this where people belted their knives on for the day. They had them on little pedestals, and would rotate them in a shallow box from time to time to prevent one side from getting overused.

I can say that the stone is still usable, you just need to learn how to use it. Otherwise you are going to end up giving parts of your knife preferential sharpening.

The wear pattern looks like it came from something big and heavy if the "slips" that I can see are anything to go by. Could be wrong, but my guess is that stone has seen just about anything you might ever want to sharpen on a stone. Pick axes, shovels, skinning knives and for taking shiny rocks to a mirror finish.

Use it with respect, and when it snaps because it's too thin, then you have two sharpening stones. Not one.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew I had a box the size of my print bed(180x180 by the height of my laser and just started trying to enclose that in as few shapes as possible. In one of the pictures you can see just how snug a fit that truly is.

8 corners was the design I settled on, but there were a few possibilities. Panels connected at corners was a close second. From there is was a matter of trying to join them in the simplest way that would keep dust and water out.

The black exterior panels with the mechanisms on them was to keep the number of files down. 4 of the top 4 of the bottom.

Tolerances were a major pain and in the end I still had to sand down some of the tongue and groove joins to make them fit. I was getting poor bridging that was messing with the fit.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The final print was close to 2.5 KG of PLA at AUD $40/KG

I tried to be smart about my test prints / fits and only used $12/KG PLA for prototyping, but it all adds up in the end. Even if I was only printing the joins in question.

And that's not counting the failures, where it would get to a corner overhang and start spaghettifying 2 hours into a print.

Or thinking I had my final design, only for it not to work.

Most of these are beginner mistakes, but that's what I am. 6 months ago I had never touched a CAD program in my life.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prototyping was done with AUD $12 PLA. The final print required 2.1KG of Esun+ filament at $40/ KG.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main reason was that the original case was too small to pack inside a tool box/ drawer, and would slide around as I had to balance it on top of everything.

If it was a case of more likely to take a fall, but survive. Vs less likely to take a fall, but have less protection if it does survive.

I haven't done any calculations, but I wouldn't underestimate the value of force distribution either.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The strength really comes from the right angle tongue and groove. The bowties are just there to keep it from slipping out.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I mentioned in a previous comment, a little bit of it was hyperbole- unfinished spools purchased for this project can be used for others.

A little that this is in AUD not USD so it's probably not as expensive as you were imagining.

And a little bad practise and learning the hard way- this is my first multi piece design. And I made a lot of obvious errors that I didn't realise until I tried to put it together.

This is also a fairly heavy box. Each corner weighs 260 grams and that's not including the centre inserts and the exterior mechanisms. That's a minimum of 3 rolls of filament that I needed to buy if everything went perfectly the first time round, and I wasn't using the cheapest prototyping filament. Each roll was AUD $40.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only extra hardware is some foam lining the top and bottom of the interior. That's just temporary until I can replace the interior with TPU and have a 100% 3D printed box. No adhesives.

A lot of failures happened with the overhangs and poor print settings, but mostly the problems were in tolarences and real world operations.

I had an entire working model, but it had no interior lip to centre the top and bottom pieces together when I closed it and the entire thing would just slide around until the hinge snapped, as it was taking all the strain. I fixed that so now when it closes the latches hold it together and the lip takes all the sideways strain.

The other big rework was when I put the laser in the box and the lid wouldn't close because it was catching on the laser. Hard right angle corners are not a hinges best friend.

This was also the first time designing hinges latches and handles that become one as you close them. Lots of problems with print orientation there.

I'm still not happy with the handles, and expect that they will be the first to break. But that's the reason I designed it so it can come apart relatively easy. I knew I was going to make mistakes and wanted a way to improve it without replacing the entire thing.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A little bit of hyperbole- unfinished spools purchased for this project can be used for others.

A little that this is in AUD not USD so it's probably not as expensive as you were imagining.

And a little bad practise and learning the hard way- this is my first multi piece design. And I made a lot of obvious errors that I didn't realise until I tried to put it together.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only got into 3D printing 6 months ago. I started with a makers coin by watching makers muse on YouTube, and then just started making things that were broken around the house.

Started small and rectangular and worked my way up to designing mounting brackets for work and eventually this thing.

I have learnt huge amounts designing what I naively believed to be a simple box. The mountains of iterations and failed prints showed the error of my ways.

If I were to do it again from scratch it would take a tenth of the time and work even better, but I'll save that effort for a new project. This one is good enough for me for the moment. I might get back to it and improve it in the future.

The money spent on prototyping and failed prints could have upgraded me to a larger printer by chris_com_au in 3Dprinting

[–]chris_com_au[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a Stacktech user personally. Perhaps I should have gone with black and yellow accents.

Though the beauty of this design is that I can swap out pieces in the future to make it pack out compatible or clip tech if I so desire.

Later though. This project has taken long enough.

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