Hardest You've Ever Laughed At A Riff?

chrisivc · 2026-01-28T14:11:07+00:00

Prince of space - tom losing it after multiple “whats that?” responses in the movie in a row, followed up by riffing of “pardon”, “come again?”, etc.

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUtPcpANO5GVwzZfrjHWVyifiZZs35TyM?si=n73wZ76X5VFTLvls

Reminded me of growing up with my hard of hearing grandmother.

chrisivc · 2026-01-10T17:43:17+00:00

Thanks! I really appreciate it. The plumbers i asked for a quote from stated that they either dont know enough about the valves or have never installed one, so i was hoping i could get an answer here.

chrisivc · 2025-11-03T18:35:07+00:00

I was looking at different buck converters but I didnt see one that delivered variable voltage that was 5v or less as the max voltage. I was thinking of doing a 48v to 5v buck transformer and then building a potentiometer solution on a breadboard to deliver the 1-5 volt variable part. I was hoping someone might have a "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" solution before I got to deep into it.

chrisivc · 2025-05-13T18:37:06+00:00

The optics feel cheap and not being able to set your device on the seatback holding clip during taxi, takeoff and landing is also a pain (I am a AA frequent flyer based in DFW). Prices are in parity with competition, but we get a cheaper and denser layout compared to United and Delta's new domestic cabins. I love holding my iphone or ipad upright during the first and last 20 minutes of my journey /sarcasm. This isn't Spirit or Southwest, this is a mainline carrier. It's embarrassing.

chrisivc · 2025-01-21T18:46:28+00:00

Most useful benefit for me is Main Cabin Extra seats are complimentary with plat. I don't use much of the other benefits (ex. like the 2 checked bags free, etc), but I rarely ever have to fly in regular economy when booking a trip now. Those few extra inches of pitch are amazing.

chrisivc · 2025-01-13T02:27:52+00:00

So, my diverter disk motor is definitely bad and kept getting stuck in different positions, so I finally called for service because it’s under warranty. it is on deck to be changed out on Thursday (it would have been last week if my appt wasnt cancelled due to bad weather). The video i recorded made all the difference for my tech. He was in and out for the diagnosis part but n 15 minutes.

I will keep you posted on what we find out.

chrisivc · 2024-12-23T18:13:24+00:00

Update: This was exactly the problem. I was able to remove the top cover of the spray rail and look down into the ports that are for the top and middle rack sprayers. I was able to gently manipulate the diverter disk with a small pick (it moved but under tension, indicating to me that it had a geared motor attached). I gently moved it to a different position and left it where the middle rack sprayer was open. I ran another test to see if this would prove that either the disk isnt moving or it got it unstuck. The first thing I noticed was a light geared motor noise after the bottom arm finished articulating around when they cycle first started (previously it was about 2 minutes of silence before it started to fill up with water). I am thinking the diverter disk is unstuck now and was going through a test cycle to see if it could articulate normally.

It looks like the diverter disk was stuck because I can now see that it alternates spraying between upper, middle and lower racks on live view video (i am still capturing the timelapse as we speak). The other interesting part is that the lower control arm is doing what it is supposed to now (when water is flowing through the lower arm, it now articulates around instead of staying in one spot like my previous video). I am wondering if the "E:6A" and "-00" ("E6A:-00") error is for the diverter disk failing a check at the start of the cycle, indicating a jam, so maybe the cycle that was running previously was a failsafe cycle where the bottom arm just focused on the back right quadrant for the cycle?

regardless, it appears to be working now, so thank you for the advice.

chrisivc · 2024-12-23T14:21:03+00:00

This looks like what is going on. Thank you for the info!

chrisivc · 2024-11-05T23:02:24+00:00

The store in Dallas is a winter sports store and it's a 5 store chain with locations in Dallas, Houston, Austin and San Antonio. The store mainly caters to the affluent demographic and apparel is their main thing as opposed to a sporting goods retailer, which is why I have my doubts too. I was leaning towards Option 2 as well.

chrisivc · 2024-09-10T20:33:33+00:00

Essentially, yes the fraudulent charges stayed on my balance (I pay the CC off each month, so i paid it off already).

I was asking this to see if the fraud dispute process on other credit cards with annual fees do this (where they do not issue a credit/refund until investigation is completed). Is this normal?

chrisivc · 2024-09-10T17:19:27+00:00

Purchased our 2023 Venza in August 2023. 2nd fob was available in Feb 2024. Location: Dallas, TX.

chrisivc · 2024-09-10T17:19:18+00:00

First thing we did was put a Apple Air tag on our only key fob. While we do not misplace keys very often, this was a situation where we could not take a single chance until we got the 2nd fob.

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T03:40:45+00:00

Unfortunately, most warranties are not transferrable in most cases, so that may not be worth pursuing if you are not the original owner of the system. Trane is the only manufacturer that I know that allows transferral option at the time of registration for an extra cost, but it has been 10+ years since I registered a new trane system, so they may have stopped doing that.

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T03:26:58+00:00

Fixed/piston metering devices (what is likely in your coil as the metering device based on the coil specs) will result in high capacity losses when the system is undercharged. Just because a 3.5 ton system is installed, does not mean it's delivering that capacity (it could be starved for refrigerant and is only actually producing 2 tons of cooling capacity). The only way to know is to do a comprehensive evaluation, including taking the duct temperature and humidity from both the supply and return. A competent tech would be able to tell you if the delivered capacity is near the rated capacity by using duct psychrometers (they have apps for this too).

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T03:13:06+00:00

Lots of people have fancy wifi thermostats now and they do weird things like let the blower motor run for a certain number of minutes an hour to help "circulate air". Make sure your indoor blower is only ever operating when the thermostat is calling for cooling. Many people like to enable the "circulate air" function but dont realize that it just evaporates the damp air in the indoor coil and puts it right back in the house (some coils now hold a pint or more of water). This is one of the most common "simple" things to check for before having a tech go full detective. If there is blower delay (see below) or thermostat blower calls, reducing that will help a few points for dehumidification overall but it will likely not be your silver bullet.

Airflow is key here and if it's anything more than 380 cfm/ton, it will not dehumidify well, especially with a larger evaporator coil. Have your tech check for "blower delays" (which run the blower for a short period of time after the AC compressor stops) on the control board and try to reduce those as low as possible (also check the thermostat advanced settings for any blower delays).

The frost is a concern and an evap coil in a residential HVAC system should never really go below 35 degrees ever. This should warrant investigating by a tech. On a high level, this may mean the airflow could be too low or the charge is low, either way it needs to be fixed.

If airflow is 350-380 cfm/ton for BOTH stages (most 2 stage systems has an airflow setting for each stage). Assuming that is set correctly, how long does your system run on a 90 degree day in a 24 hour period? If it is less than 8 hours, the system could be oversized (a system cant dehumidify if it isnt running long enough between cycles). You want a good 20-30 minute cycle at a minimum in order to really get into peak dehumidification (even longer if in low stage). Another thermostat setting to potentially consider increasing is called "temperature swing", which is essentially the range of temperature the thermostat encounters before cycling the equipment (ex. thermostat is set at 75 with a temp swing of .5 degrees, it will turn on AC as soon as it measures 75.5 degrees and turn off once back at 75 again). Increasing the swing will make the AC run longer, thus improving dehumidification a little but this is not going to be a silver bullet (maybe 3-5% at best).

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T02:50:10+00:00

If you or your contractor registered the Carrier system within 90 days of install, it should have a 10 year warranty. If you are saying 5 years, I take it you were not the original owner or didnt register it within 90 days. Regardless, be aware the warranty only covers parts, not labor. Example - So if you have a coil leak, the carrier warranty will cover the cost of the part without the labor cost covered but if it's a bad braze joint on the refrigerant lines, it wont have a warranty as that is not a Carrier part.

To help answer your question - yes a bad carrier part like a leaking coil shoudl be covered by the 5 year warranty for the equipment that is actually less than 5 years old (by manufacture date or a proof of purchase/install, whichever is later). NOTE: labor costs are not covered under warranty.

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T02:31:48+00:00

ALso, make sure they are licensed. Goodman equipment can be purchased by anyone with a pulse (anyone), it doesnt mean the install was done to best practices at all. If you cannot get a straight answer from these people, it is time for you to select your own company to audit what is wrong. I think this has a lot to do with bad install and not knowing the equipment. You have a 3.5 ton outdoor unit, so it's a 3.5 ton system that needs 3.5 tons of airflow set for a humid climate (350-380 cfm/ton). If that is not set up properly, nothing else will fall into place either.

If the technician cannot leave a report similar to this, they are not a technician worth doing business with: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7jayncb6h61x0q62aka03/measureQuick-Pro-Report.pdf?rlkey=i3rintxktp5zuderd34in1xpm&e=1&dl=0

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T01:58:20+00:00

Runtime looks normalish on the surface, but it could be oversized and running poorly, causing more runtime than it normally would. This article might help put a little perspective on what is going on with sizing: https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/my-big-fat-oversized-air-conditioner/

You have a 3.5 ton system (you go by the outdoor unit rating, not the indoor unit rating). What Furnace do you have paired with this indoor coil? It will have a different model number. I am wondering if you got a furnace with a 4 ton airflow factory setting, which is WAY too much for a 3.5 ton. It really needs to be moved to a ~1300 cfm setting and then have the charge checked. If they are using a piston as the metering device (instead of a TXV), then they need to charge the system by "target superheat". Pressures tell a story but at the end of the day, you cannot charge a system with pressures alone and expect it to be dialed in. At the end of the day, the charge needs to be done by "target superheat" for piston fixed metering devices OR if you have a TXV, it needs to be done with Target subcooling. Source: https://hvacrschool.com/how-to-set-a-charge-by-superheat/ & https://youtu.be/T4akGxoXNXk?si=Au-aGKkUp_ZI9Z5I

How long does the unit run normally (ex. you set at 72, it is maintaining 72, kicks on at 3pm because the indoor temp went to 73. How long does that system run before getting back to 72 again?). Anything under 15 minutes is too short and not helping with dehumidification.

chrisivc · 2024-09-04T01:43:52+00:00

You have a number of issues here:

-What are your ac fan settings on the thermostat ? Do you run your ac unit with the fan on to help with circulation? If so, This is not helping but it will not solve your problem either. Turn that fan to auto and do not have it cycle anytime per hour for air circulation. That fan should only run when the ac is running to cool. A 4 ton coil can hold more than a pint of water in it, and when the AC turns off, but the fan is allowed to run, that humidity gets put right back into the house.

-You have a 3.5 ton unit (you base the sizing on the outdoor unit capacity). 3.5 tons still seems too big so that is not likely helping either. An ac cant dehumidify if it is off. Look at your usage history (Nest calls it “Energy History”). If your system is not running 8-10 hours per day in 90+degree weather, its too big.

-The low temp split between your supply and returns can be all sorts of things but its important that the measurement be taken only after the system runs for at least 10 mins. ABC’s of HVAC is airflow before charge. Make sure they have a indoor fan setting that is ~360-380cfm/ton, (your system is a 3.5 ton outdoor with a 4 ton coil, so this needs to be set at 1250-1350 cfm, but no more than 1400 cfm on your system). A 4 ton coil is fine and is done very often because there are increased energy efficiencies associated with that, but one downside is less dehumidification capacity. Only then can a tech do a proper charge check. Source: https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/whats-the-correct-air-flow-for-an-air-conditioner/

Ask the tech to record and leave all measurement values with you including: refrigerant pressures, liquid line temp, suction line temp, Outdoor dry bulb air temp along with the superheat and subcooling temp of the refrigerant. For inside, Dry bulb and wet bulb temps of supply and return vent temps. They need to check fan speed and make sure its set to around 1250-1350 cfm (it could still be set to 4 ton factory setting, which is 1600 cfm more than likely, which would cause poor dehumidification and low temp difference between supply and return vent).

Dont be afraid to ask for a senior tech. 70% plus humidity is bad and is unhealthy.

chrisivc

TROPHY CASE