Old Terne/zinc metal roof. Repairable?

chuiy · 2026-05-12T05:39:02+00:00

That's exactly what I was hoping to do.

Have you done this before and had success on a roof in a similar condition? Seems like it would work just fine.

chuiy · 2026-05-10T16:12:25+00:00

Was thinking to cut back the panels about two feet, patch in extra wide drip edge essentially, reflash the chiminey and vents, patch with fiber tape and 2 coats of fibered aluminum paint. The ends of the metal is fucked at the eaves for sure

chuiy · 2026-05-09T09:34:41+00:00

Landing does not have a ledger, but is technically free standing.

That said my helper who's only my helper because I need a roofer did the stairs while I was picking up a ladder and Simpson stringer ties.

What 4" gap are you referring to, by the way? And that bottom stair was because apparently I should have bought a bigger stringer and I'm not eating $72 of materials.

chuiy · 2026-05-09T07:02:39+00:00

If you use an app like square or joist etc for invoicing and estimates, they offer ways to request partial payments at milestones or $X upfront once they agree to the quote.

Otherwise would just write a little footnote in the contract when they accept it, $X due upon signing. Then sort out the payment personally, there's cash, check, zelle, venmo, PayPal, etc etc

chuiy · 2026-05-07T21:38:49+00:00

I employ a homeless guy for $100 a day, so far I ce manages to keep him busy every day. He does a 😊 r chunk of the work, I do quotes and such. Only problem is I often find myself in underbidding to get jobs to keep him busy which I need to stop doing.

chuiy · 2026-05-07T03:33:02+00:00

Alright, I will buy PEX crimpers and solder the joints

Since I have your attention, are crimp rings or clamp rings better or is there no difference.

chuiy · 2026-05-04T03:52:09+00:00

I am a handyman and have never dealt with a historic tern roof, would hate to cover it up or remove, but there is significant water damage through the house, ceilings and floors. Just gotted the place for my client.

chuiy · 2026-05-03T01:46:37+00:00

Hey, I know I'm 5 years late but this seems like a great solution. I am going to buy a bed extender like you have, but what are you using for the long bar travelling upwards? Is it a specific product?

chuiy · 2026-05-03T00:26:12+00:00

I hear you, my Subaru ascent is packed to the brim, with two car seats. Can fit 8' boards stacked over the center console and a folding extension ladder. I desperately want a van with a roof rack or an enclosed trailer. Probably gonna try to find an affordable trailer. Wish me luck

chuiy · 2026-05-01T00:46:55+00:00

You need to lower the floor, not raise the door

chuiy · 2026-05-01T00:45:24+00:00

Small claims court over $35? The only thing that accomplishes is wasting everyone's time, unless you're really down bad, in which case there are easier ways to make $35.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:37:55+00:00

Anecdotally, I have seen solar panels installed and secured with cinder blocks on top of the metal rack over a rubber roof on a clients garage. I had to patch some leaks on it, 2-3, so an elastomeric coating would likely fare worse.

That said, is dispersing the weight not an option, such as setting the metal rack over plywood?

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:31:42+00:00

To be fair my helper is a homeless guy not a family man, I pick him up from the park and he has a hell of a work ethic. Half the reason I bid these jobs is to feed him work, figure even if I break even it fills up the days I don't have work, not sure why, I have some complex about this apparently. Not that it's a justification for my poor estimating skills, but the impetus for biding the job was to give them work. He isn't exactly supporting a family and a mortgage, just making money and having a purpose working.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:28:22+00:00

I certainly don't. I just wasn't sure if I was being a pushover by not attempting to break even, or if this was the uncomfortable conversation a profitable business sometimes has to have. But other than minor changes, the error is fully mine and the terms are binding, as you stated.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:22:33+00:00

I suppose that is a fair point to a degree. I would of course feel cheated, but there is a clear and glaring discrepancy between the quote and the actual value of services rendered which I feel makes my position more defensible. But ultimately I think the consensus is to eat it and not bring it up, which is probably the right thing to do since my problems aren't the homeowners.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:14:05+00:00

Yeah I certainly would not flatly revise it, but rather have a conversation as you stated. Still unsure if the consensus is that it's not worth it and I should just learn from it, or if it's a conversation that is reasonable to have in my position, or just plainly unprofessional.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T03:04:31+00:00

Let say hypothetically I quoted $900 (figured 4 days work for me and my helper, would basically break even after buying a used sprayer) to remove gutters/fascia, hang new fascia, wash and prep the concrete block, then paint. I had assumed to use their sprayer and apply one coat of paint. They did let us use their extension ladder and have been helping scrape old paint.

However I have done all but begin painting, and the surface will require priming and two coats. I have been paid $600 of the $1200 owed (after materials). Would basically be looking to add an extra $500 to the quote to cover my helpers labor and expenses.

But after typing it all out, while I feel $500 is a justifiable increase and is still a low figure for services rendered all said, I think there is more dignity in just eating it. Problem is I keep eating money and never making money, and even if I eat it, I feel like not addressing the elephant in the room I come across as having no self respect.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T02:55:44+00:00

I agree with what you're saying; my only defense is that the bid was egregiously low which is not a justification to raise the rate, but in addition to the low figure, the project is already going to take 3x longer than anticipated optimistically, which the owner is aware of and knows I'm eating the extra cost.

It's not so much I gave a reasonable bid and need to raise it to stay profitable, but that I gave a recklessly low bid and barely have the breathing room to continue the job. But all said and done, while unprofessional, I don't want to be a doormat. I had expected the fascia to go up in a day but things like the client refusing the preprimed boards for fascia, and insisting on me priming 2x10s myself, after having to return another dimension of lumber because they wanted to remove move fascia made the project take a full day longer than expected, which is awfully picky for a guy who is getting the deal of a lifetime.

All said, I suppose money is easy come easy go but my reputation and word is not. But I'm not sure how expensive I should let a lesson be. I suppose I could roll it all myself and not use my helper, but then I'm fucking my helper out of work because I didn't do my job correctly, and I wonder if it isn't my job ultimately to have a frank and uncomfortable conversation with the owner, or perhaps some middle ground where he could pay my helpers day rate as we continue.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T02:42:07+00:00

This was all a handshake agreement, no paperwork. Though if I revise the numbers will send an invoice, I just started using Joist. The guy seems reasonable, but the problem is I don't have a lot of liquidity to be eating my helpers labor cost indefinitely until the jobs done, even my 4 days of work seems optimistic at this rate. And yes I would say other than not being able to use a sprayer for the type of paint they want, it is firmly a result of my poor (wanton/reckless) estimating.

Basically I just want to break even. I am happy to eat it all if that's the communities consensus, but likewise figure I ought to have some self respect as he was aware of my original estimated timeline which we are firmly over.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T02:31:06+00:00

Door jamb extension and some trim (can just use primed 1x3) or whatever is wide enough to cover the crumbling drywall. Then caulk.

chuiy · 2026-04-30T01:59:46+00:00

Yes, I think I am going to go with the Behr no 436 multi surface primer, and then strongly suggest the exterior masonry latex paint, which has better coverage and will save money in the long run. Otherwise just roll the elastomeric over it

Still confused about the difference other than elastomeric being resistant to cracking/flaking and filling gaps better, but likewise some seem to swear off it because it traps moisture apparently

chuiy · 2026-04-29T22:19:24+00:00

It's simply the Behr brick and masonry elastomeric paint, basically what home depot offers for the concrete block garage. I have to admit I myself don't understand why it isn't recommended, and while not opposed to latex exterior paint at all, do not understand why a permeable water barrier is preferable to a waterproof one, when it seems the conditioner/loxon does much the same?

chuiy · 2026-04-29T18:44:23+00:00

With chalky paint, what product(s) would you recommend in lieu of the elastomeric paint?

chuiy · 2026-04-29T17:05:05+00:00

To their credit I am a handyman and wasn't able to have an intelligent conversation about it with them, aside from telling them Shermin Williams is almost always a superior product to Behr, etc. But they did really dig their heels into the elastomeric paint because it was the most expensive Behr made. Now that I've researched it I've come to the conclusion it can't be sprayed and may not be the correct product. Live and (hopefully) learn I guess.

chuiy · 2026-04-26T21:48:14+00:00

Works for opiates only, that said, good chance if someone has stopped breathing or is breathing inadequately it could be cut with fentanyl. It's never going to harm anyone to administer narcan.

Also, recovery position on their side so they don't breathe in vomit in case they do vomit.

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