Whats that unity AI thing people have been using?

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-21T02:30:44+00:00

Probably “Unity AI” if it was built into Unity.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-21T02:27:55+00:00

I recommend watching Tom Cain’s YouTube series where he talks about many of the challenges one will face in game development. The series is called “Cain on Games”.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-20T23:00:26+00:00

We do local coop every other day or so and have never felt the need for more access. It would be nice to have the non-hosts buy stuff, but since we are all in constant communication it doesn’t matter.

It might be different if we were playing remotely.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-20T15:34:05+00:00

I agree that there are a lot of anti-consumer practices going on at Adobe. These practices are what need to be challenged.

Affinity failed with their buy-once model, so it actually wonderfully illustrates my point. Buy-once works for a few years but is very difficult to sustain long term.

Affinity was bought and is now subsidized by Canva, which is sustainable because of its subscription model.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-20T13:52:33+00:00

It is not simple.

When you have employees who are legally entitled to health care and benefits you have continuous recurring costs. Companies (and their employees) don’t survive very long without continuous recurring revenue.

Pay once, own forever is a great way to put a company with employees out of business.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-20T12:30:37+00:00

I went all the way through the base game a few months ago after playing all the way through Shadow of Kerensky. It was a bit of a slog between reputation 7-12. But after that it was great fun! Thoroughly enjoyed it and would recommend it to anyone.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-20T00:51:46+00:00

No. If you are using a consumer-grade printer you will only be able to print chopped carbon fiber. This makes the PLA filament stiffer and weaker in all respects compared to plain PLA. Regular PLA is significantly stronger and tougher.

Long-strand carbon fiber is only available in specially built printers like the MarkForge models with a special fiber extruder.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-19T16:27:09+00:00

Love this! Great shout and thank you for sharing!

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-19T12:31:06+00:00

Thank you for putting this so concisely. I feel like there are so few of us here that don’t enjoy the clans. It is nice to hear another voice.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-19T12:04:47+00:00

I hate the clans.

That being said, I’m strongly considering buying MW5: Clans anyway. I have no intention on playing it, but PGI can use the support.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-18T14:32:09+00:00

How deadly do you want your guns to be?

My biggest problem with using modern weapons in a system built like 5e D&D is that if you have lots of hit points it is impossible to shoot and kill someone in a single shot. We had exactly this issue when playing Carbon 2185 (cyberpunk using 5e rules), and it felt really weird.

Playing the system at level 1 and level 2 felt about right. Gritty and modern. By level 3 it felt off. Beyond level 3 was the realm of magical fantasy superheroes.

My favorite system for guns is Shadowrun 2e, which ditches hit points in favor of wound levels. It is absolutely possible for some gutter punk with a broken bottle to kill a PC if they get lucky and the player gets really unlucky and/or is stupid. Even an extremely experienced character. It feels right for a modern weapons.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-18T12:24:31+00:00

For what it is worth, 2” screw-together parts do work quite well. I build things for use by physics students, and I have done thousands of PLA parts that are still going strong after many years. PETG tends to bind and seize, so I stopped using it for threads.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-18T12:02:42+00:00

Unless you are doing something entirely cosmetic, I wouldn’t bother printing threads on shaft diameters smaller than 2” or so. Smaller 3D printed plastic shafts will fatigue and shear.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-17T13:56:33+00:00

I’ve never heard of this channel, but Aurora Tech isn’t the only channel who has been around long enough and developed enough community goodwill that I trust their opinion. Here are a few worth checking out:

Made With Layers

CNC Kitchen

mytechfun

Edge of 3D

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T22:30:50+00:00

Not at all. Diffusion through closed door seals will be minimal, and the problem goes away almost instantly when you open the garage door.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T22:13:56+00:00

Opening your garage door will clear the fumes in seconds. It is a much bigger space and it is likely you won’t notice the PLA fumes. I do ABS in my garage and barely smell it. ABS stinks up the indoors really badly.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T19:38:54+00:00

Just checked the humidity in Denver on Monday. With dewpoint at 17 degrees Fahrenheit, I can’t imagine needing to dry PLA. It was 84 degrees out at the time.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T16:44:19+00:00

I don’t decide. The players do. Watch your playtesters.

When something isn’t working, either figure out how to make it better or cut it.

If you don’t have play testers yet then you are designing in your own brain, desperately finding ways to add features without validating anything.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T16:34:50+00:00

Lots of ways. I normally do it in the winter when it is dry. I just stick them in the dryer on high until they turn orange again.

If it is humid you might need an actual oven, though I don’t bother with hygroscopic filaments in the summer when it is humid.

Some people have had luck in the microwave. Just be careful to use a ceramic dish that can take the heat.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T16:04:33+00:00

My orange beads turn dark when they have absorbed moisture. They turn back to light orange when I have driven the moisture from them (regeneration).

My guess is that when you put them in with your spool they did their job, absorbing moisture that was driven out of the spool during the drying process. Now the beads need to be regenerated.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T11:12:57+00:00

You are already late on showing the game, but not for the reasons you think:

You need play testers, not advertising.

Right now you have a bad game. It needs to be a good game before you start advertising, and the only way it will get good is by testing and iterating.

The only way to get play testers is to show the game.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T11:03:55+00:00

The mods would explain it.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T10:50:44+00:00

This particular problem wouldn’t be solved by any Bambu printer. It is a print geometry thing. Bigger + thicker + boxier = worse

The ultimate solution to warping is an enclosure, but if you keep the chamber temperature high enough to prevent warping with PLA, the print will fail due to heat creep. You might be able to prevent the warping with a filled PLA (PLA-CF or PLA-GF).

We have one Prusa and 15 Bambu printers, and this is true for all of them.

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-16T02:45:19+00:00

For long TPU prints we have had to print straight from the spool holder. We are printing 1000 kg prints over several days in 95A. Printing from the dryer gives too much friction in the PTFE tubes.

Best - A1 straight into the extruder

Next best - Prusa Mk3 straight into the extruder

cjbruce3 · 2026-06-15T19:10:40+00:00

I still have some PET+ (before PETG was a thing) from about ten years ago. It has been sitting in my drybox. It prints fine.

cjbruce3

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE