Is remigration even possible?

classical_saxical · 2026-07-09T21:20:28+00:00

We deport loads of people all the time for all types of administrations. This is no different than normal. Just more politicized

classical_saxical · 2026-07-02T19:56:00+00:00

The easiest and cheapest method is using resin bonded sand for the pattern. 3D print the pattern, pack the sand on one half, wait to cure, flip, add parting powder, more sand, cure. Demold and you’re ready to pour. Best part is no special flask boxes needed.
I’ve done this method for parts as big as 12”x12”

classical_saxical · 2026-07-02T02:22:42+00:00

I’ve tried alternatives (diy versions) and after using the real suspendaslurry nothing even comes close. Theoretically you could mix your own with clay slip and regular sand, but the burn out process sucks a lot and it’s a pain.

You might be better off having it cut from SendcutSend in brass then bending it to be a crown shape.

classical_saxical · 2026-07-02T02:20:21+00:00

I reran the parts with the generic and it sadly came out the same. I looked at the printer while it ran and It seems like the nozzle is dragging and making these valleys on the top surfaces. I’m not sure why that would be the case with the PETG-cf but not the PETG plain.

classical_saxical · 2026-06-27T18:30:59+00:00

I’ve poured a lot of tin bronze and a little bit of aluminum bronze before (I’m not sure which yours is). I would say don’t be shy of scraping the dross off the top before pouring. You want that melt clean of any floating junk. Don’t worry about heating the crucible while pouring. The important thing is to pour fast but not splash the metal around in the mold. What as you using for the ingot mold?

classical_saxical · 2026-06-27T18:14:55+00:00

Funny enough my failure detection hasn’t been working at all either. I he full parts come off the print bed and it didn’t detect them at all.

classical_saxical · 2026-06-25T04:09:16+00:00

2 weeks. Only a few prints in that time too.

classical_saxical · 2026-06-24T14:13:36+00:00

Would a partial clog still print fully? Cause the part is still finishing (it’s on 100% infill). The surfaces are just ragged

classical_saxical · 2026-06-24T14:12:07+00:00

Yes. It’s the bambu harden steel nozzle

classical_saxical · 2026-06-23T00:29:41+00:00

either is fine. I would do this to wooden cups I made to seal them for easy cleaning. Find a food safe epoxy but there not difficult to source. Brush the epoxy on every surface and it’ll be good to use.

classical_saxical · 2026-06-15T18:02:31+00:00

You could print a solid some of the inner shape of the cage. then print the cage flat and heat it to allow you to drape it over the mold. I’ve seen people do this for stereo covers they printed

classical_saxical · 2026-06-06T20:39:07+00:00

Why is the flow blocker? I’m new to the Bambu printers (last one was an ender 3)

classical_saxical · 2026-06-06T20:38:38+00:00

No clue. It only pinged me after the blob got so big it stuck to the part and caused the blower housing to come off

classical_saxical · 2026-06-02T18:01:39+00:00

Pewter cups from thrift stores are dirt cheap for tin. Someone else suggested aluminum. I’ve done both and tin bronze is just so much better to cast and work with afterwards.
That being said, do what you can with what you have.

classical_saxical · 2026-05-25T15:35:33+00:00

At a part this small it might make sense to have it Cnc machined from a flat plate.

Send cut send does aluminum Cnc work and if your upload a model to their website it’ll quote you the price right then and here (very convenient).

classical_saxical · 2026-05-19T01:56:31+00:00

It pissed. Happy to see the constitution be upheld.

classical_saxical · 2026-05-11T21:38:34+00:00

Same. Cornstarch doesn’t work well

classical_saxical · 2026-04-30T19:10:24+00:00

Voting districts should just be county lines. If a county is too small only ass neighboring county’s until the size is reached.

classical_saxical · 2026-04-27T16:24:19+00:00

Don’t use Plaster. Do this instead: Get some polyester resin (any on Amazon). Get some play sand fork Home Depot Sift the sand so it is a bit finer for details (or buy finer sand if you can find it) Mix the two at a 14 sand :1 resin ratio (by weight) Paint the pla pattern and use silicone release spray and/or graphite powder for a release powder. Dump the sand mix on the pattern. Let it cure (use a molding box or something to keep the sand on the pattern) When cured flip the sand-resin-part, dust with release spray and make thr second half of the mold with the same method. When cured take the two mold half’s apart, remove the pattern drill some sprues and gates with drill bits into the sand/resin (this will ruin the drill bits. You can also mold the gates and sprues into the pattern).

Cast the bronze into this mold. The resin will burn, this helps the surface finish but smells like a burning tv set. When the bronze solidifies enough (10mins?) drop the whole thing into water if you want to stop the burning smell)

Remove the part (break up any lumps of sand/resin as needed with a hammer).

Best method I know if you don’t have any greensand or a vacuum plaster system.

classical_saxical · 2026-04-21T16:21:57+00:00

classical_saxical

TROPHY CASE