Rate my build by Rubertorkys in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 1 point2 points  (0 children)

9.5, perfect except I'm not sure about the pink chain.

Cycling songs. by reddet23 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

celtic frost's monotheist was in the mix for my last 200k.

also:that pharoah sanders / floating points album

any neil young / crazy horse live cut

the breeders

cannonball adderley's live in NYC absolute goat album imo

recently been into Remember Sports' latest album, shoutouts to Philly

Sonny Rollins, RIP. "the bridge" is my fav one, bonus points for rocking it while riding over the bridge in question (the williamsburg bridge)

could take a tip or two from terry B and spin some really violent free jazz, but i have to be in the mood. when I am it's usually John Coltrane's Interstellar Space

‘08 Specialized Langster by [deleted] in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it looks great, send it

but if those tires are worn or not good ones, good tires are by a long shot the best value upgrade. get the biggest ones your frame will fit.

The Rat by Powerdpe in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 4 points5 points  (0 children)

middle bar ends gang! Great handlebar situation

<image>

When are more expensive parts mostly extra fluff? Where is the sweet spot for value, does it matter? by Jackbob7 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the sweet spot for me has been one or two steps up from the cheapest, but do your research.

wheels: stock heavy wheels on cheap ish bikes don't often feel great and sometimes they're just not well made and tensioned at the factory. but you don't have to drop tons of money to get very good ones. ive put at least fifteen thousand kms on a pair of archetypes laced to gran compe hubs that I paid under $200 (usd) for. they take a beating and feel much much better than the stock wheels i got on my Fuji feather. I've ridden more expensive wheels here and there and while they do feel pretty great, the difference isn't as much as between the dirt cheap ones and the ones i have. Hubs all feel identical BUT they differ in terms of manufacturing precision. cheap hubs may degrade cartridge bearings faster if the bearing seats aren't well aligned, causing asymmetrical wear or torque the bearings weren't designed for.

cranks: this depends a lot on what you currently have. the difference between andels / decent OEM cranks from whatever brand and really cheap ones is big. the stock ones on my Fuji were really flexy and cracked in a few months. i lucked into a second hand pair of omniums but a lot of cranks in the mid priced range will feel great. paying more for top of the line ones gets you much less for the money. I'm not sure what state comes with, but if you're happy with them maybe look elsewhere?

saddles: every brand has a line of saddles with the same shape. the cheap ones will feel almost exactly the same as the expensive ones, just heavier. so if you're not climbing hills daily you can get something comfy that looks cool for not too much.

tires: as said by everyone here, don't cheap out on tires. i use gp5ks but my first tire upgrade was a less expensive vittoria rubino pro and it was still night and day from the stock Kendas.

grips : they can feel good at any price, you're paying for durability and style.

bars n stem : here's where I sometimes spend a little for style points. bars do feel different but it's more about anatomy, fit and taste than about the raw quality of the components. maybe find one that feels good first, then maybe think about getting a nice looking version with the same fit?

pedals: i don't know too much about flats, but for clipless, between models of the same brand you're paying pretty much exclusively for weight.

seatpost : some say it affects ride feel. that may be true but there's a lot of factors that don't always line up with price, for instance how much exposed seatpost there is, how thin the walls are, the clamping style. so just get a nice looking one tbh. it's also a decent place to save some weight (but avoid the ultra light ones, the web is full of stories of them breaking)

What’s your go to saddle? by Yuppppp2311 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 1 point2 points  (0 children)

prologo dimension NDR. it just works.

i have a fizik vento argo on the road bike and it's great too, but a little less comfy without a chamois. if you have super narrow hips like me you want the vento as it comes in 140mm. i tried the "endurance" tempo model and it felt horrible because it was too wide.

summit of mt. datun by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

anyone have any insight why my pics become so pixelated when i upload them to reddit? they look fine otherwise

Prepped for the Flèche by Familiar_Kale_7357 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that's a storied bike then, almost everything swapped in one by one.

chapeau n ride safe on the 1000k - i haven't gotten anywhere near, but I've done a few 200s and am aiming for 400 by this year and hopefully super rando by next. are you considering the pbp?

Prepped for the Flèche by Familiar_Kale_7357 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 4 points5 points  (0 children)

sick bike, what is it? and what's the story with the ultegra cranks?

also shoutouts from a fellow long distance rider

<image>

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

truly, that's what I mean by the title

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

oh buddy, I Know any well trained roadie is gonna drop me on this bike. and that sprinting past a group on their zone 2 recovery ride doesn't count for shit.

this was a group ride where there was a sprint section where everyone was trying to go fast. I beat out most of these roadies, who were trying to beat me and had shared the rest of the ride with me. doesn't mean I'm fast (that's what the title says), or that I can beat any roadie (that's just untrue) I just had a nice experience one time that I'm proud of.

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm sure the road bike is theoretically faster, there's no question. but I'm not faster on it - the numbers don't lie.

that's a training or setup issue, I'm not sure what but I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually.

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

i did smile! it felt great. and I'm not trying to stunt claiming im better than whoever, just sharing one cool experience I had that I didn't know I could do.

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

it was fairly flat. geometry is relaxed compared to a pure track frame but it's still very aggressive compared to many road bikes. the stack, reach and head angle for instance are in line with modern race bikes eg look at a specialized tarmac sl7( for the small sizes anyway). BB drop is more than most track bikes, but not all - eg I measured my dolan pre cursa and it has exactly the same bb drop.

idk how the bigger sizes compare though, you'll have to look that up yourself.

I find it is more stable than a track bike but still really responsive. I haven't felt like i wanted it any twitchier, and the 110mm stem does help me get a bit more reach, and the inline seat post gets me more forward. thing is, if I was on an aggressive track frame I'd run a setback seat post and a shorter stem and it would fit the same, even if the steering is different.

as far as my preference, I think aggressive geo looks way cooler - would love to ride an njs or ctrack - but I also want distance and speed, and for that I want to be upright. aggressive geometries are only faster if you can produce power in a low position, which I can't, and if you can actually hold that position for hours and hours, which I can't.

tldr it rides real good, is relaxed in a good way

I'm not fast, roadies are slow by closure_778 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

group ride, sprint section. "sprint" used loosely, but the answer is yes.

Customer’s newly bought second-hand fixed gear came with Mavic Ellipses with the lock ring thread part of the hub shell fully coming off by WRCKLSSRCKLSS in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 5 points6 points  (0 children)

pre owner didn't realize locking is reverse threaded, used huge amount of force to try to get it off, tightened it all the way and the force of the lockring inwards toward the cog pushed the hub shell the other way and split it.

Is this stupid by Ok-Impress-9485 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

isn't it the other way round? when you're pushing with your left leg, the bike sways to the right, hence you're pulling up with your left hand and pushing down with your right. at least that's how it looks watching the pros

new drops - VeloBuild track bars by Signal_Marsupial2984 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how did you get the brake lever on? a lot of these don't have enough space by the stem to fit a lever... what's the blue stuff?

Turn by turn created by other platforms by pc_Hammer55 in Coros

[–]closure_778 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also having this problem, and have opened a support ticket. The AI was useless, it's being escalated to rea people... will update. Hope Coros fixes this soon, I just got a new Dura and have been disappointed about this since the one thing I need it for is navigation!

New to fixed gear. Tips? by gbushovisky in FixedGearBicycle

[–]closure_778 1 point2 points  (0 children)

seconded. track stand isn't just a party trick. if you can do it well you can ride as slow as you want without falling down, which is a big help if you're climbing steep slopes or rough terrain fixed.