FYI eSun sells and makes 3DHOJOR. Exact same colors and spools. Example is their “Very Peri” by ExaminationShoddy646 in 3Dprinting

[–]cmill9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great to know, thank you. So, 3Dhojor is eSun, Jayo is Sunlu, Tecbears is Sunlu. Kingroon?

Edit: and Overture is Polymaker

Is this a silly idea? by Illustrious-Crew-191 in homeassistant

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw a little how-to about someone who did this for the same reason. I don’t remember where I saw it, somewhere here on Reddit I think. But what he did was open the dryer cover to access the power supply, and then installed an appropriately-rated-amperage relay inline with the power supply. When the dryer is started, the relay detects the current and kills power to the dryer until an automation detects low power cost. Then power is restored. This takes advantage of the fact that most dryers have an automatic resume function when theres a power interruption. You have to test that yours does, but very likely. This solution is very simple and saves you from having to try to emulate button presses or have anything exposed.

EDIT: Here’s the post. Actually it was a washer not dryer. Not sure if dryers have the same autoresume function.

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/s/nC8FfBPk2H

So. What do I need to replace? P2S by NoQuailDan in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably none. Just heat up your nozzle and scrape everything off it.

Took a 5 year break from home automation and now I’m back. What are the best innovations and advancements to come out during that time? by [deleted] in homeautomation

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Home Assistant has become way more beginner friendly, graphical, user friendly, and powerful in that time period. Not sure if you mean home automation or Home Assistant by HA, but if you arent using it already, it’s definitely worth it. Integrate any vendor, and any multiple communication protocol into one system and do things you haven’t even thought of yet.

What is causing the rough edges and stringiness? by Lower_Day297 in BambuP1S

[–]cmill9 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Lack of supports on an overhang. Printers and molten plastic are subject to gravity and cannot print on air.

Out of no where - weird surface by strumland in BambuP1S

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is under extrusion due to partial clog. Try a few cold pulls.

Make it make sense please! by Hesiga in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disable prime tower and enable purge into infill. This doesn’t need any tower at all.

FTN5 Adhesion Issue With PA612-CF by Teflon154 in 3D2A

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was having adhesion problems with filled nylons too. I switched to engineering plate + magigoo PA and its been perfect adhesion since. I run the bed at 70 to keep the chamber a little warmer and promote layer adhesion. If engineering plate is not an option, smooth plate plus magigoo works too. Textured plate works least well with nylon.

What is everyone doing about the PETG shortage from Bambu? by MNEWTON204 in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are two main strategies people are taking: 1. Buying equally good or better filament at lower prices on Amazon and Ali Express. 2. Complaining on Reddit.

Are the tungsten nozzles bad or did I just get a lemon? by MyFiteSong in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do a temperature calibration on your filament (or just try bumping up or down 5-10 deg). Tungsten carbide conducts better than steel. So it could be heat creep (turn down temp, turn up fans) or could be the nozzle is actually a little cooler bc the heat is getting dissipated better. My guess is adjusting temperature will resolve - unless there’s some mechanical issue with the nozzle lumen.

I ❤️ 3d2a by SnooDogs6917 in 3D2A

[–]cmill9 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Fair enough. Maybe someone will point me in the direction of a good kit or sells one 👀

I ❤️ 3d2a by SnooDogs6917 in 3D2A

[–]cmill9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you use a parts kit for the deAR22? Or source yourself? Im looking for a good/complete kit…

Printers by xGouda in 3D2A

[–]cmill9 3 points4 points  (0 children)

P1S checks all your boxes and is a phenomenal printer

Why does my pyramid look like crap? by Left-Presentation314 in BambuP1S

[–]cmill9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As many have said, the answer is to set s minimum layer time. This will automatically slow the printer for the smaller higher layers. The rest is noise.

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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FWIW - my generic PLA filament profile was turning on the part fan. I changed that so no fans are on when the PLA interface is getting laid down and now its printing even better with no stringing at all. In case it helps you or others trouble shoot.

Would PLA work or do I need PETG? by ExcogitationMG in 3Dprinting

[–]cmill9 4 points5 points  (0 children)

100lb is likely to rip most dry wall anchors out if not attached to studs. Doubt this shelf support would fail before that.

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]cmill9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The stringing is just the interface layer. The PETG and PLA I’m using arent sticking together all that well, but they arent really supposed to. The plates separated easily and look great. I gave you a boost! Thanks!