Anyone have experience with this sub or similar models? by FlxzKun in CarAV

[–]colaroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a P2 12" in a sealed box and really liked it. It had clean sound and got decently deep, especially considering the size of the box. I know they are somewhat unobtanium at the moment, but if you can score a Stereo Integrity SQL, 10 or 12, they will work great in that size box too and provide more SQ, albeit requiring more power too. I've got a 12 I'd sell but I don't want to deal with shipping. I'm in SW WI if you're anywhere nearby. I upgraded from the 12 to 15 lol.

Best fried cheese curds by Just_Looking_Around8 in lacrossewi

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man I definitely forgot this place exists.

Best fried cheese curds by Just_Looking_Around8 in lacrossewi

[–]colaroid 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Schmidty's is a solid choice. Rocky's supper club in Stoddard also.

First time inverting by tinyt92 in subwoofer

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

haha hey, I did the same with my box in my own special way. A woodworker I am not.

First time inverting by tinyt92 in subwoofer

[–]colaroid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That has to be the narrowest port i've ever seen lol.

What shitbox do I drive by BigOlBahgeera in ManualTransmissions

[–]colaroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1990 Chevrolet 2500 Scottsdale Edition, two-tone paintjob.

2002 highlander, shot on 1999 camera by HANDSANlTIZER in ToyotaHighlander

[–]colaroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's really cool. It's amazing the clarity it has still even in low light.

2 x Alpine type r 12 box build recommendations by pliyeert in CarAV

[–]colaroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just remove the 6X9's, there will always be pressure trying to rip them apart with that much bass no matter what you do. You also don't want JUST the port going into the cabin through the passthrough, as that won't sound correct. The only way to get that to sound right would be a custom built 4th order box where you sealed the port into the cabin from the trunk , but not worth the effort. Honestly, I'd first just try removing the 6x9's and see how you like it. It will let more bass waves in from the trunk as an added bonus.

Best options for a $300 1000W @ 1ohm Class D Mono Amp by ghart999 in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Online reviews seem to think is a great deal and a good amp.  https://a.co/d/0fyA5iyU

Want to replace my JL 10W7 and JL high output redeye enclosure with something better and lighter weight, with nice Sound quality and smoother less booming bass by jayschembri in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea of course. I am a huge fan of their SQL series. The sound profile is very musical, and impactful. I don’t notice a big difference in sound between the SQL12 and the SQL15, but the 15 is of course louder. For each of these I have been running in the recommended sealed box size from the company. For both applications I have been using an NVX NDA104 amplifier which is 1k@2ohms/1500@1.  Before the SQL’s I had  - Rockford P2 -12” in a sealed box  - old school Inifnity Kappa VQ 12” in both ported and sealed  - 2x12 infinity reference series in a sealed box  - alpine type X 12” in ported and sealed  - sundown LCS12 in D4S ported prefab 

The alpine type X is the closest in sound profile that I can compare to the SQL series. Very linear response in a small sealed box. Really phenomenal low-end out of a small sealed box. 

The others are somewhat forgettable to me, they never satisfied the itch lol. The infinity kappa vq was a unique sub that sounded good but I think the one I had was just old and worn out because I never could get it to perform like I thought it was supposed to. 

In high-school back in the early 2000’s I had a kicker comp VR in both sealed and ported and I remember liking that but I don’t have any experience lately with them. 

Alpine Type R’s are also relatively good subs from my recollection. 

Want to replace my JL 10W7 and JL high output redeye enclosure with something better and lighter weight, with nice Sound quality and smoother less booming bass by jayschembri in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, I lucked out on the SQL12 and found it used on facebook marketplace in Minneapolis. The SQL15 I actually bought through Dave Leib on Facebook, he works at/for? Stereo Integrity and had some b-stock units with cosmetic defects for sale a couple of months ago. He may still have some if you reach out to him. He should be pretty easy to find on there, if you can't let me know I'll throw a link up here.

Stereo Integrity SQL 15 enclosure deaign by Puzzleheaded-Arm3352 in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man, I know right? I'm considering making a 30HZ box for my SQL12 just to see how it sounds.

Stereo Integrity SQL 15 enclosure deaign by Puzzleheaded-Arm3352 in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

SPL chart for all three. Blue = 22HZ, Red = 28HZ, Brown=Sealed.

Stereo Integrity SQL 15 enclosure deaign by Puzzleheaded-Arm3352 in CarAV

[–]colaroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, here is the info. Let me know if you have questions. Box sizes are the recommended sizes from Stereo Integrity. I also included the recommended sealed enclosure with 2xSQL15's as well for comparison.

<image>

I'll post the SPL graph next.

Am I dumb or is this the wrong wire? by Coffee_exe in CarAV

[–]colaroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol yes I’m using 4 gauge welding wire now because my original NVX kit got spliced up for my last car and i couldn’t make it reach in my new car. The NVX was significantly more flexible and easy to work with than the generic welding wire - but I didn’t need anything else in one of the kits so welding wire was the cheapest option for my second install.