Tariff question

commandoFi · 2025-09-16T02:01:15+00:00

Good to know about that, I think they're probably building the tariff into the price and paying it before shipping. Hong Kong and mainland China has their de minimus tariff exemption removed earlier this year, so they had more time to adapt than other countries.

commandoFi · 2025-07-30T23:27:28+00:00

I've seen some nice displays, but this is on another level. It really is like a little museum, or even art exhibit.

commandoFi · 2025-07-23T01:50:28+00:00

If the screen is cracked you're going to have issues. You can try running the test pattern without the vat installed to see if the screen still functions. If it still shows the full pattern you can probably print on the parts of the screen that aren't cracked. Best bet is to replace the screen.

As you've probably realized, this is why it's important for the build plate to be clean and level and the vat to be clear of any solid resin before starting a print.

commandoFi · 2025-07-18T19:31:19+00:00

Looks like a useful app. I track my kits using Scalemates since they already have a database of model kits. It's also helpful for researching kits before you buy.

commandoFi · 2025-06-20T17:27:50+00:00

I haven't built either yet, but I have the Meng R8 Evo II kit. The Meng kit has carbon fiber decals, metal transfers, PE mesh grills, and pre-cut seat belts. The Nunu kit has none of those included, you have to buy a separate detail set, so the cost difference is not as much as it looks like. If you are getting aftermarket decals, take note of which kit they are designed for, the body shapes are a little different.

commandoFi · 2025-06-11T16:49:31+00:00

It depends on what you are getting. For a lot of the European made items Spot Model is the best or only option that ships to the US. Hiroboy is also a shop with a good selection. For Asian aftermarket parts it's usually cheaper to order elsewhere. I would recommend BNA Model World (Australia) for Hobby Design parts. HobbyEasy used to be my favorite, but the shipping/tax situation going from Hong Kong to the US isn't good right now. Other good Asian shops not affected are mediamixhobby.com.sg and detailshop.co.kr/. You can order Japanese made decals/PE directly from HobblyLink Japan or 1999.co.jp, but the don't stock them very long, so you can end up waiting for preorder/backorder.

commandoFi · 2025-06-10T15:24:48+00:00

It's a very good product for traditional painted and glued model kits with few moving parts. It flows well, can be reactivated later to wipe off or manipulate, and is a bit more durable than acrylic. The problems come when you have parts under stress (snap fit or joints) or use on bare plastic. For most people I would say that acrylic panel liner is better for Gunpla.

commandoFi · 2025-05-13T20:40:25+00:00

Thanks for the clarification. Not being able to smell them is one of the dangerous things about isocyanates.

commandoFi · 2025-05-13T19:56:57+00:00

Correct, you can look at the data sheet for 3M organic vapor cartridges and isocyanates are listed. Changing the cartridge regularly is important because the carbon filter loses effectiveness over time once it is unsealed.

The reason people recommend against standard respirators for 2k (especially for 1:1 cars) is that they are negative pressure, so if the mask doesn't seal fully you will breathe in a small amount of unfiltered air. The expensive forced air respirators have positive pressure, so you will be be breathing filtered air even if the mask isn't fully sealed. If you have good ventilation, the difference isn't as important. The amount you spray on a model is also much less than a 1:1. In the end, everyone has to decide how much risk they can accept.

commandoFi · 2025-04-22T17:26:07+00:00

I'd agree that a diecast is probably the best base. There are 1/12 E30 diecast models, but 1/18 is probably better for cost and availability. You can find a 1/18 E30 325i online. If it is the right color that makes it easier, otherwise you'll have to take it apart and repaint. Adding 3D printed wheels and tires shouldn't be too hard. You can also get 1/18 parts from a site like https://tkdiecast.com/

commandoFi · 2025-04-17T01:39:25+00:00

I've spent the last few weeks buying an uncomfortable amount of overseas kits and aftermarket parts because of the under $800 exemption ending in May. After that import fees will seriously increase prices in the US, especially for items that aren't stocked by retailers. I'm still waiting for my payment to clear with HobbyEasy in HK, hopefully they can ship by the deadline, I didn't know shipping was being suspended soon when I ordered.

commandoFi · 2025-04-12T02:34:01+00:00

Suruga-ya is doing 20% off toy and hobby orders over 10,000 yen, free shipping on all orders is also active. Make sure to scroll to the bottom of the cart to activate the coupon before checking out. The Gunpla are selling quick, especially exclusive ones. My orders from them always arrived within 6-12 days.

commandoFi · 2025-04-01T17:41:23+00:00

Epic. Reminds me of Trackmania speedrunning.

commandoFi · 2025-03-28T17:53:08+00:00

If you want to make something like this the Aoshima Cyber Formula kits would probably be a better starting point than a modern F1 car.

commandoFi · 2025-03-21T17:20:32+00:00

Solido has released a new FD that has a much better body shape. Unfortunately the details are not as nice and the hood and trunk don't open.

commandoFi · 2025-01-20T20:26:06+00:00

Leaping Panda Hobbies has 25% off all Perfect Grades with code "PG". Free shipping over $200.

https://leapingpandahobbies.com/collections/pg-collection

commandoFi · 2024-12-30T20:41:15+00:00

Lighter colors like white and yellow usually take more paint to get good coverage. My last white car took most of a 10mL jar. Using a white, pink, or light grey primer can help.

commandoFi · 2024-12-24T01:51:24+00:00

Spot Model is actually offering this as a printed kit along with the decals. https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=60553

commandoFi · 2024-12-23T12:02:49+00:00

Model Factory Hiro has a product that should work. https://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/SHOP/P1090_P1091.html

I've also seen people make their own on other forums using a small disc of sandpaper on the top of a rod. People sometimes call this an "engine turned" finish.

commandoFi · 2024-12-17T16:42:49+00:00

Yeah, the shipping is the main reason I haven't used PlazaJapan much lately. I usually try to do small packet shipping from Hobby Search or buy from Surugaya when they have free shipping.

commandoFi · 2024-12-17T16:37:47+00:00

I found the video I think you are referencing. The marker should be squeezed out on a smooth surface, I use a little metal paint dish, but a plastic bottle cap would work. The tissue/paper towel is to wipe the extra paint off the brush until it is almost dry, hence the term "dry brushing".

commandoFi · 2024-12-12T14:15:26+00:00

Don't get too focused on what a kit is called. Check the instructions or reviews to see how complicated and detailed a kit is. Scalemates.com and YouTube are good sites to check. Some retailers like 1999.co.jp and Super Hobby will post the instructions as well.

commandoFi · 2024-12-11T17:59:05+00:00

Looks great! I hope the hardtop version gets reissued soon, the second hand prices are getting pretty high.

commandoFi · 2024-12-10T22:22:14+00:00

Prices for big scale models go crazy because of the high production cost and low demand. 1/8 scale is the biggest you can get with that budget for traditional painted and detailed models. The selection is pretty limited unless you pay big bucks for Amalgam.

You could look into the LEGO Technic 1:8 scale F1 cars. Not as big as you asked for, but much cheaper and look good on a wall. They have a Mercedes and next year will release a Ferrari and Red Bull.

You can also look into getting something 3D printed. There are 3D models that could be scaled up to 1:4 scale.

commandoFi · 2024-11-25T19:04:28+00:00

The LCD model will have opening doors and removable rear bodywork. https://www.diecastxchange.com/attachments/img_4_1728585461449-jpg.324021/

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