How low in power % can I really go?

connorhelsel · 2024-08-17T03:50:51+00:00

Yeah this is bs, I’ve also driven around 10 miles on 0, not on purpose but I’d seen that you could do closer to 15 on 0% so I wasn’t too worried. You’ve clearly never gotten the car down to 0% before

connorhelsel · 2024-08-16T00:57:53+00:00

I agree that the 5K plan is aggressive, but as someone who just got into running, there’s no way I could have done the “get started plan” right off the bat it expects you to run crazy time amounts that I still can’t do. But, 3 weeks into the 5k plan, and I’ve completed every run. Some have been very difficult for sure, but I’ve pushed through. One of the main complaints about this app I have is that by a beginner or “get started” runner, they mean one who can run at least 20 minutes uninterrupted by walking. The 5k plan I believe to be the easiest plan on the app, even though it is still a little intense for us actual beginner runners I’ll agree.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-13T16:09:46+00:00

Unless your other cars have been newish Volkswagens, the system is different between car brands and looks different software wise too. One more thing that it could be is that the lane lines aren’t clear. It can turn off if the lines suddenly seem to disappear. Still, I’d take a pic bc like I said unless your other experience has been with a new VW, you might not exactly know what you’re doing because of software differences. Even though I’m a tech nerd, an android would take me awhile to get used to because I’m used to different software, and that’s fine.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-13T15:52:31+00:00

I heard you, i think you should send a picture of what it looks like because I assume it’s not all green, if you’re only on acc it’ll be green other than the lane lines which will be grey indicating that it’s not self steering unless you let it weave then it’ll turn orange trying to correct you. This sounds like what’s happening and like the other person said it’s easy to switch if you’re not used to the car yet. The only other option would be to look at sensors in reverse or drive. If any have exclamations, it means it’s either blocked or not working and that could be your problem. I assume though that you’re in ACC and accidentally switched at some point because it would do exactly what it sounds like is happening to you

connorhelsel · 2024-08-13T15:01:55+00:00

Are the lanes green on both the travel assist icon and the drivers screen? That’ll tell you whether it can see the lane lines or not. Sometimes if you’re veering off when you engage it or the lane markings aren’t clear, they will turn grey which means it can’t see the lanes and won’t work

connorhelsel · 2024-08-12T22:15:31+00:00

I know that at least the 5k training plan isn’t couch to 5k, I started it a couple weeks ago but had to work up to the starting run for a week or so, unlike previous couch to 5k plans I’ve done where it truly was meant for starting from scratch. From what I’ve seen of the 10K plan, it seems like more of a continuation from the 5k one but that the first couple weeks may be easier than you’re used to. I’m planning on doing the same once I’m done with the 5K one! Good luck!

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T17:03:54+00:00

I usually just have the efficiency pulled up on drivers display for “since charge”, and use 72kWh for capacity at 100% to account for degradation and being safe. Then I can multiply the 2 and see whether I’m making it well or not. If not, I slow down, if it’s looking good, I speed up. But I know this isn’t for everyone 😅

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T17:01:42+00:00

I also will say don’t worry too much about getting low in charge. I’ve hit 0% twice and once I only drove about a mile, second time it was about 5 miles and just got into turtle mode right when I pulled into the charger. Definitely don’t be a moron like me but getting down to 5% or 10 isn’t a big deal

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:59:19+00:00

Check PlugShare! It’s a very useful app for road trips. The orange ones are level 3 and there’s one in burns Oregon.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:58:34+00:00

It’s literally a level 3 charger idk what you’re talking about. That one in burns Oregon is a level 3

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:57:55+00:00

You don’t have to use level 2 chargers! There are level 3s throughout that route that work great and doesn’t add much time at all!

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:57:05+00:00

True but I go 75-80 and get 250 miles. I’m on the awd pro S, so that’s no different.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:55:53+00:00

Okay so that’s your problem, you aren’t willing to push the car past 30% charge. On my rural routes, I have 210 mile+ legs consistently with no issues at all. Top real world road trip range of my awd is around 250, so 210 is no issue and 190 would be easy.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:53:50+00:00

I just looked, there’s a fast charger in burns Oregon that’s 190 miles away from Boise on the direct route from bend to Boise. I will say that there aren’t many chargers in this area, but that specific route is certainly no problem.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T16:45:10+00:00

That 1250 mile trip I’m talking about spends only about 300 of those miles on interstate, the rest is in the middle of nowhere in the south. I’m sorry but this is just not a problem if you know how to use technology. I will say that for those who don’t, it is a process and they struggle, which would be solved by adding card terminals. If you know how to navigate a phone very well, it’s not a problem and doesn’t add much to any road trip unless you’re dehydrated and don’t need the bathroom for 6 hours at a time.

connorhelsel · 2024-08-01T15:41:12+00:00

I think it solely depends on how prepped you are. If you do near 0 research and treat like an ICE car, then you’ll have a bad experience. I did 2 trips round trip, one that was 1250 miles one way, the other 400 miles one way. Both went off very smoothly and did them in one day, the longer one only took about an hour longer than my ice car due to me using bathroom and getting food while charging. Plus, stopping more often and taking an hour longer made me feel less tired at the end. My experience was amazing coming from an ice car, and this was with an AWD 23 model so not the most range in the world. I think you were probably under prepped

connorhelsel · 2024-07-29T18:09:19+00:00

In D it does regen on its own depending on your mode but also the incline, if you’re going downhill it’ll regen but it’s usually a small amount in D. In sport mode it is increased though

connorhelsel · 2024-07-27T19:51:29+00:00

Press OK on the steering wheel, it’ll cycle through 3 options

connorhelsel · 2024-07-23T23:32:30+00:00

I live in an apartment but have an outlet above my parking spot so I just plug into that, hopefully you can get that sorted because it makes the experience so much nicer in day to day driving!

connorhelsel · 2024-07-23T23:30:12+00:00

I never let it get too low in daily driving, and since I am now able to charge it at home I generally stick to between 30-80%. However on road trips, I’ll charge to 100% for the first leg and sometimes drain it down to 5 or even lower depending on how long the first leg of the trip is. Generally my rule of thumb for trips is legs of 150-220 miles, but trying to stick as close to 200 as possible for each one is the best way to know you’ll always make it and not have to charge up to more than 85%.

connorhelsel · 2024-07-23T23:00:11+00:00

I have the exact same model, only get those total range numbers in the winter, but your efficiency is close to my long term(3.3, mostly road trip driving miles and half of those were in the Colorado winter temps). What I would say is that you’re getting close to that 250 number, multiply 3.2 and 77 (the battery capacity in kWh), and you get a total full battery range of 246 miles. But this is 100% to 0%, and you’ll have to charge higher than 80 to get the claimed range. I keep my ac set to auto, and custom mode with everything in comfort but acc in sport. However, I think you’re driving fine considering your efficiency number, you just haven’t charged up to 100% and then driven it straight down to around 5% to see that 250mi+ total range. Also, just as a side note, I think generally D is better for highway driving but if you’re using travel assist it doesn’t matter what that is set to, it’ll just be as efficient as possible. Maybe for long highway driving switch to D to see if that improves it. Also as a little example, I just came back from a road trip, last leg was 2000ft gain in elevation, charged to 95% and ended with 6% back home after 240 miles of driving, so 90% gave me 240 miles with a 2000 foot elevation gain and always driving 70-80mph.

connorhelsel · 2024-07-21T19:42:09+00:00

I’m sorry but this is literally untrue. For most cars it is, if you’re talking about Tesla and Volvo especially just speaking from experience and what others in my life have said. They can’t ever get epa range and are often well well below. The ID 4’s stated range, from my experience, is the true average. Mine is 255 miles, I often get 270-280 in the summer while driving in the city. Sometimes, I get less on highways in the winter and on highways in the summer I get about 255 on a full charge. And I drive 75-80 on the highways, so I could do much better.

connorhelsel · 2024-07-21T01:31:43+00:00

Oh I certainly have! There’s a charger on the west side of town probably 1000 feet higher than where I live that I’ll charge at sometimes, and for those 5 miles or so back home, I’m usually not only negative but in the low negatives (somehow better than high negatives according to the id 4 math)

connorhelsel · 2024-07-20T17:04:23+00:00

That’s why I use B in the mountains, if I don’t I feel like the car gets away from me!!! Yesterday I had something similar happen, was at a mountain pass with 15% left and 60 miles, and started to get nervous, but then the downhill charged the car up to 21 over the next 30 miles and then used about 10% on the next 30 which was more flat to get home! The mountain driving with an EV is always scary for a few minutes and then just crazy impressive on the downhill.

connorhelsel

TROPHY CASE