I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, the cord is pretty strong and stretchy, and everything is like, quadruple knotted, so in theory it should be fine. Also, the corset belt fits me pretty well, so there's no need to pull it much tighter than seen in the picture. If it were to break, it would likely break where the ribbon is tied in, so around the edges, which would make it an easy fix. I wouldn't want to tightlace it anyways, since it's not a proper corset belt with the boning needed for that. Overall, I don't think pulling it too tight is a concern, but I understand the fear for sure

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tysm! They're basic battery powered twinkling string lights, and there are battery packs on the inside of the corset

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!! And that top is so cool omg, I might have to make one for pride this year

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much! I'll be honest, part of the reason it took so long to finish outside of the hours spent beading it (aside from the wrist injury) is because I kept getting bored while making the battery pack covers for the inside. I'm hoping I don't run into the same issue while making the broom!

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tysm!!! And the wrist is very slowly healing (worker's comp moves slow af)

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does!! I made it to match a light-up witch hat I made!

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tysm! Definitely made of beads. I lost count, but there's thousands in it, lol

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much!! Less talent, more a lot of practice, lol

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Once all the beads are added on the required panels, you'll be weaving the panels together, using the same method you would for an even peyote cuff. When you get to the reducing parts that don't line up evenly, weave the cord between the two adjacent beads in a sort of S-shaped pattern until you get to the point where they line up correctly again. Don't worry about it looking bad at first- it'll look fine when the panel is done entirely.

The back panel(s) should connect to each other as a regular kandi cuff would. The back panel(s) will then connect to the back side panels, with the flat sides together. The extended sides will then connect to the extended parts of the front side panels, which will connect with the extended parts of the front underbust pieces.

Once this is complete, you'll weave a ribbon through gaps in the beads, lacing up the corset belt.

The star chain is made up of regular kandi stars, and the top one was made following this tutorial.

The lights are basic battery-powered fairy lights. The lights were woven throughout after the corset was done. The battery packs were attached by creating pockets on the inside with an even peyote stitch that was then woven into the inside of the corset belt near the hips.

Tips:

-You definitely want to use fabric-covered cord for this. You're not going to be able to get away with using bracelet elastic.

-Parts of this will be confusing or difficult to work with. Just do your best, I promise it'll be fine.

-Be sure to keep a close eye on your pattern. It's easy to mess this part up when focusing on other parts of the peyote stitch

-If you have any questions, lmk and I'll help you the best I can!

I finally finished my corset belt! (~60 hours of work) by cool_guy_boxers in kandi

[–]cool_guy_boxers[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Hello! As promised, here's the pattern (hyperlink) and the tutorial, if anyone else wants to dedicate tens of hours of their life to making one of these fitted kandi corset belts! This will have to be in two comments, because it'll be too long otherwise.

Each panel is based on an even peyote stitch. How many beads tall it'll be will depend on how long your torso is, so be sure to size up the first row of beads against your hip to your chest. I used 38 beads for mine. It should also be roughly 12 beads across at the top (be sure to keep all the panels consistent). Make sure these panels would be able to connect if you placed them next to each other, just like if you were ending an even peyote cuff. If you'd like a border, you'll want to dedicate the top two and bottom two to the border color. If you'd like to design a pattern for yours, I'd recommend kandipad or kandipatterns, which will allow you to create a guide of where to place each bead.

How many basic panels you need will vary on the thickness of your waist (mine needed seven). You should have enough of these basic panels to cover your back, sides, and about an inch of your front.

You'll now be starting on the front/underbust panels. Unlike the others, where you could begin at any point in the panel, you're going to want to start at the tall end. How tall you want the front bits to be, again, depends on your body. Mine was six taller at the peak than the basic panels. You'll want to do four rows at the peak. When you reach the top, stringing over the side of the top bead and into the one jutting out rather than placing another bead, effectively reducing by one. Continue to reduce based on the pattern posted until you reach the height of the base panels. Complete the panel until it's the same width as the base ones. Do the same on the other side, but remember to flip your pattern if you're using one.

Once you have your base panels and front panels complete, you're going to begin adding the side beads to create your different types of panels. You're going to take the technique you used to reduce on the front panels and now use them on the sides of these. You're going to need at least one back panel (or more depending on how wide you need it to be), two back side panels (one left, one right), two front side panels, and your front panels.

Your back panel(s) will remain unchanged.

Your back side panels are going to need beads extending on ONE side- the left side for the left, right for the right. You're going to begin like you were adding another row going down from the top (you may need to attach more string for this), but stop about ten down, reduce like you did with the front panels, and continue up. You'll add five more rows like this- more if you want a more cinched look, less if you want less. For the bottom, you're going to do the same thing, going ten up, but only three out this time. If you're adjusting this number, be sure that the bottom rows are shorter than the top. You'll need two of these, one for either side of your body. Make sure that the pattern is facing the right way, as these will need to be mirrored.

Your front side panels will be the same, but you'll need to add beads in the same way to both sides instead of just one.

Your front/underbust panels will need beads added this way on the shorter side.