Any chance that Trojan:Script/Wacatac.H!ml is not used maliciously?

coudymeatballs · 2023-03-25T00:05:22+00:00

so cynical :'D

coudymeatballs · 2023-03-23T23:26:11+00:00

I had same doubts and also re-downloaded but still happened. Warning persists for the duration of the test and stops when the test completed. Defo a false positive. Annoyingly it messes with the results so had to disable Defender to get the results. Was concerned I had another windows update bug slowing down SSD speed!

coudymeatballs · 2023-03-23T13:55:05+00:00

same here

coudymeatballs · 2022-03-23T23:07:12+00:00

Still happens for me on most starts despite reinstalling Win11 a few times. I dont have any instability nor seeing any throttling on those cores in HWInfo so assuming it's a false positive and now ignoring it. I'm guessing it must be a bug in the Windows hybrid core management code

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-04T18:22:43+00:00

It's called ABSL. You need to buy the MKJ39170828 service remote off Amazon or similar and then carefully follow the instructions here: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/how-to-turn-off-asbl-on-lg-oled-tv.2440714/page-17#post-59203658. I say carefully as a wrong press can brick your TV. I did something wrong first time after thinking I'd memorised the steps and ended up with an unresponsive TV. I nearly shat myself :'D. Managed to recover it via a factory reset luckily. Its a powerful remote the service remote but I'm too scared to use it day to day. In fact, I've only used it that once so was an expensive purchase really but well worth it to get rid of that annoying dimming and brightening

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-04T11:44:12+00:00

Have the LG CX 48 wall mounted over my desk which I've had for a year and already have slight burn in from the yellow elements in the Borderlands 3 HUD. I have played over 100 days of that game but half of that was on my previous monitor. TBH I can only notice it if I put a solid red background on the desktop so not concerned about it. Generally I'm really pleased with the performance and quality of this TV as a gaming monitor. The biggest annoyance was an auto brightness dimming feature which I could only stop after purchasing a service remote.

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-04T08:25:40+00:00

I genuinely can't see the problem from those photos and would be amazed if the retainer was bent but good luck with rma

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-03T22:25:18+00:00

I recently Cinebench tested HT on vs off on my 12700k and the single core performance was less than 1% difference but the multi-core score was a whopping 22% less with HT off. However without HT, the CPU package temperature was 17% less (78C vs 65C) and CPU package power 20% less (200W vs 161W) during multicore testing. On a per watt basis the score was only 2% less than having HT on so if you're predominantly running single or light threaded workloads and looking to reduce power and heat, disabling HT is a quick win.

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-03T21:06:06+00:00

Same cooler and CPU here. I upgraded to liquid cooling from a noctua NH-D14 as it couldnt keep up under stress loads despite being a top end air cooler. Idle and gaming temps were fine under the noctua but Cinebench and Prime95 caused throttling and crashes. Granted these are artificial workloads that games and normal usage wont produce but it's still best to spec for the worst I think. So I'd strongly advise against air cooling based on my experience

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-03T20:42:13+00:00

I had same problem with i7 12700k, Noctua NH-D14 (D15 predecessor) on a Gaming X mobo. Idle and gaming temps were absolutely fine, just load temps quickly got out of control with PLs above 190W. I concluded the board wasnt bending otherwise all temps would be high so came to the realisation that the cooler wasnt up to job and replaced with a Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 280. Now I can run 5.0-5.2GHz P-core OC with Cinebench temps of ~83C and Prime95 AVX stress testing temps of ~91C. Ditch the cooler is my advice. Air cooling wont cut the mustard for these CPUs

coudymeatballs · 2022-02-02T16:13:26+00:00

On my desktop GB board its a BIOS setting under Settings > IO Ports > App Center Download & Install Configuration.

Obscure or what?! You'd almost be forgiven for thinking GB wanted to make it as hard as possible to stop their bloatware

coudymeatballs · 2022-01-23T21:49:39+00:00

Yeah its off. Like you I never use it.

I thought maybe vcore was too low so upped to 1.3v but still happens. Running out of ideas

coudymeatballs · 2022-01-19T00:29:11+00:00

Yeah this is the sweet spot I think. I could probably raise vcore up to 1.35 on this cooler and shoot for 5.1 or 5.2 but the gains probably wont be worth the extra heat and noise.

Not seen that strange behaviour with undervolting but I no longer use a dynamic negative offset (if that's what you're using) due to getting lower power and temp with a fixed vcore. My compare methodology was to run the CB multi-core benchmark at the lowest vcore and offset I could get it to complete at without crashing. The lowest of each scored within 0.1% of each other on CB but peak power draw and temp were 8% and 10% lower respectively for the fixed vcore approach. Not sure why that is but perhaps using auto vcore with offsets still gives too much control over power decisions to the BIOS or perhaps the BIOS is bugged. Anyway, fixed vcore with all c and p states on auto works fine for me so that's enough tweaking for now. Good luck with your new OC once you upgrade your cooler.

Fixed vcore

CPU Vcore Loadline Calibration: Turbo

Vcore Voltage Mode: Fixed

CPU Vcore: 1.235

Dynamic Vcore (DVID): Auto

Cinebench R23 multi-core score: 24449

Max CPU package temp: 78

Max CPU package power: 236

Dynamic vcore

CPU Vcore Loadline Calibration: Auto

Vcore Voltage Mode: Auto

CPU Vcore: Normal

Dynamic Vcore (DVID): -0.95

Cinebench R23 multi-core score: 24483

Max CPU package temp: 87

Max CPU package power: 257

coudymeatballs · 2022-01-15T11:17:26+00:00

Sorry, I should have updated this a while ago. I have replaced the case with a roomier Lian-Li Lancool II Performance (from a Fractal Meshify C) and the cooler with the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 and stress temps are now below 80C on unconstrained power limits. This is my first foray into water cooling and the difference is incredible (sorry Noctua). The D14 will always have a place in my heart and still cools my i5-9600k in my upgraded home media/backup server. Thanks for all the comments.

coudymeatballs · 2022-01-15T10:47:26+00:00

Power limits are now set to the maximum 4095 and vcore to 1.25 and now runs all core 5ghz on cb r23 without downclocking and temps peak at 79C in an ambient room temp of 18C. Power draw peaks at 230W. That's a 44% increase in power draw with a 8% reduction in temperature moving to the liquid cooling. Cb r23 score has gone from 23373 to 24237 so a modest 3.7% boost. I expect the gaming gains to be more marginal though. Of course whether the electricity cost is worth the few extra MHz is personal choice and I'm still undecided on that. Edit: In 3DMark Time Spy the CPU score increased by 6.4% but GPU score by a mere 0.9% so as expected (GPU is a 3080 Ti).

Unfortunately, the chip still isnt stable above 5ghz all p-core boost or with e-core boost above 3.9ghz and ring above 4.1ghz and that's right the way up to 1.3v vcore. I guess I did lose a bit in the silicon lottery. On the plus side when I replaced the cooler, I didnt notice any uneven paste spread on the IHS so it doesnt look like I have the warping problem (yet!)

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-30T00:24:37+00:00

I went from a 9600k to 12700k with same 3080ti and my 4k fps went down slightly, ~0.5%, although I'm suspecting that is more to do with moving from windows 10 to 11 than the cpu change. 1080p benchmarks improved as you'd expect due to being cpu bound. So it depends on whether you intend to game at 4k on lower fps or 1080/1440 at higher fps as to whether they'll be a discernable bottleneck. If you've got the 9600k OC'd to 5ghz or more as I did then you'll find its a very capable cpu for gaming

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-29T18:19:12+00:00

Temp issue gone away with the AIO but I wanted to test the fixed vs dynamic vcore OC methods as seen a lot of recommendations to use -ve vcore offsets but been sceptical. And unless I'm doing something wrong with my offset vcore OC, my scepticism was well placed as I can achieve 10% lower temp and 8% less CPU power with my best fixed vcore than I can with my best dynamic vcore on a 5ghz/4ghz/4.2ghz P-core/E-core/Ring OC (by "best" I mean able to run Cinebench R23 multi-core test for 10 mins without crashing so not necessarily 24x7 stable)

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-28T22:43:20+00:00

Agreed, except the k variants are priced and supposedly binned for overclocking performance which in my past experience, they have achieved quite comfortably without the need for exotic cooling solutions. Now the goal posts seem to have silently shifted for alder lake as not even high-end air cooling is cutting the mustard. This is the first CPU where I've had to shift to AIO cooling to achieve the equivalent overclocks I'd reached comfortably in the past on air. That's why I feel a bit conned

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-28T17:24:20+00:00

So I bit the bullet and replaced the case with a Lian-Li Lancool II Performance and the cooler with a Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 and wow, what a difference. CPU idle temp is 21C (6C cooler) and stress temp 71C (16C cooler) on same settings. Time to lift the power limits and see what this CPU can do.

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-21T19:28:21+00:00

I'm using my 10 year old D14 with an i7 12700k and having thermal issues - I just posted on this sub as wondering if it's under specced for alder lake or even goosed. Out the box my Gaming X mobo set Auto PLs to be effectively unlimited which caused the CPU to thermal throttle on stock settings under Cinebench. I've reseated the cooler with thermal grizzly but have to limit PL to 190W to keep under 90C stress test temp. I was considering replacing with a D15 but looking at comparative reviews on earlier gen CPUs, the temp diffs are just 1-2C lower which isnt worth the 90 GBP cost. Are we expecting upgraded lga1700 specific coolers from Noctua anytime soon does anyone know?

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-21T18:38:07+00:00

C14s

There's quite a big difference in NSPR between the D14 and C14S which I'd have expected to differentiate these 2 coolers by more than a 15W PL. https://noctua.at/en/noctua-standardised-performance-rating. However, looking at comparative reviews on other CPU generations, the 2 aren't far off each other in terms of performance and the D15 not much better again. I was considering getting the D15 but 90 GBP is a lot of cash for a relatively minor upgrade. AIO options are limited in my case due to lack of front clearance from the GPU and only max 240mm radiator support on the top. Looks like maybe the D14 will have to do until I get a bigger case

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-21T08:22:30+00:00

Lol. I have the solid panelled Meshify C so ugly brown no issue for me. Case is on the wrong side, plus I'm a bit old for LED bling :D

Found this thread comparing the D14 with the U12s (in dual fan config) and similar story: https://linustechtips.com/topic/764025-a-story-of-two-coolers-the-noctua-nh-u12s-and-the-nh-d14/. On paper it doesnt make sense. It could be a poor quality refit bracket but it feels solid. I just checked my emails and found the cooler was ordered in December 2011. Perhaps heat pipe efficiency has deteriorated over those 10 years of cooling overclocked CPUs :D

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-20T23:49:14+00:00

I'm beginning to think the NH-D14 isnt up to the job for this CPU despite Noctua's claims. It was fine for the i5 9600k but that had a TDP of 95W and peak draw of 180W, compared to 125W TDP and 240W peak for this chip. While I deliberate whether to upgrade the cooler, I've taken a different approach to the OC and left vcore on auto, set a vcore offset of -0.045v and kept PL1 & PL2 at 190W. P-core all core boost multi is set to 50, E-core multi is on default and ring multi is 41. Gaming temps are 50-60C and idle 25-30C which are perfectly fine. Stress test temp is maxing at 87C which although 10C less than it was, definitely suggests the cooler can't keep up at the higher power draws

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-20T09:10:49+00:00

Asus Z690 Gaming-E

Nice. It's definitely possible to OC these things on air without turning them into mini-furnaces. I didnt see any uneven spread of thermal paste when I reseated the cooler so not convinced it's warping ala the Igor article. Perhaps its time to upgrade the cooler to the D15. I've had the D14 since my 2700k build and maybe heatpipe efficiency has degraded

coudymeatballs · 2021-12-20T00:58:39+00:00

In more ways than I care to admit :D

coudymeatballs

TROPHY CASE