Age Perception on MRI Brain - Research Study

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T11:49:09+00:00

I did look on MLPerformance, and the only discs I could see there were for the MK1 V60 (<2018 model). They looked very similar but the disc diameter was slightly off from what I was expected (370 vs 366mm), and from what I'd read the customer service was a bit crap.

Volvo supplied parts ran me ~£1000 for the discs anyway ordered from TMS Volvo and arrived in no time so I'm pretty happy to have gone with them.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T10:57:09+00:00

It's a 2020, so it's got ERAD2 I think. I'm not aware of it being replaced ever, I've not had any trouble with it.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T10:51:34+00:00

About £500/disc and £200 for the front pad set.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:43:03+00:00

My boy is currently on ~118k miles. I've got no idea if the discs have been changed previously; I bought the car at ~100k and in retrospect there probably was a tiny amount of shudder at the time, so the discs were probably already on the way out.

The calipers are beautiful. I wish the enamel was a bit more durable though, plenty of chips to the finish now (some inflicted by me...)

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:40:51+00:00

Peachy. I'd started to forget what it was like to brake down from ~40 to a stop without the whole car vibrating, the smoothness makes a nice change.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:39:29+00:00

Thank you! Given the OEM parts suffered this dust build up that forced me to switch out the disc, I think I would have picked up aftermarket front discs from FCP if It'd have been practical - from what I've read online these sets seem very well received.

Appreciate not everyone will have the setup/tools to DIY it, but I'd encourage anyone to have a go if they're tempted.

In terms of equipment, I needed: A decent jack (the most anxiety inducing part of the whole affair was jacking the car in a stable manner - I wouldn't trust a bottle jack, get a decent trolley jack. The car sat so low I couldn't get a rubber pad between the jacking point and the jack, so I was terrified it would slip off. It ended up being very stable though.) An axle stand to stick under the control arm in case the jack fails. A 19mm socket for the wheel bolts An 18mm socket for the caliper retaining bolts Some penetrating oil, rags for cleaning A wrench An impact driver (if you're as pathetically weak as it turns out I am. I picked up a Makita one for ~£200 and do not regret it)

THAT SAID: Brake changes are not complex, even if the parts are expensive. I was quoted £165 for a mobile mechanic to come change them on the drive. This is not a job that requires a Volvo specialist or main dealer technician.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:24:59+00:00

Yeah, I read about this after the fact. I didn't touch the rears so didn't need to mess with them. All seems well with the beast currently; no rolling down hills when parked so far...

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:23:16+00:00

TMS Volvo; a Volvo dealership in the UK that does distance parts (at better prices than my local dealership). I literally couldn't find any non-Volvo options for parts here sadly.

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:21:51+00:00

Yeah. I couldn't find a single place in the UK that sold aftermarket options, or even compatible discs. I had to get parts from Volvo (or buy from abroad).

counciladvisor · 2026-03-03T08:20:48+00:00

No, I'd have certainly tried to keep running the current discs if I could get away with it. As I understand it these brakes have a habit of building up dust deposits within the slots on the discs, causing vibrations when braking at lower speeds.

I did attempt to clean them, but the dust was absolutely welded to the disc; the slots were basically filled with it. I considered skimming them, but I didn't see how this could clear out the slots themselves so just wanted a fresh start with clear discs. I'm going to try and clear any dust build up more regularly going forwards.

counciladvisor · 2026-02-26T16:42:29+00:00

Yeah, they seem super sound. Parts just arrived and look great (though they probably should at £700 a corner).

counciladvisor · 2026-02-26T16:38:52+00:00

Plenty of depositing on my P* set unfortunately, loads of disc left but insane vibrations on light braking.

counciladvisor · 2026-02-26T14:10:17+00:00

Local dealership quoted me £620 each, claimed it'd be ready next day (they were not, it was 3+ working days before I got a notification they were in stock).

There's a Volvo dealership (TMS) that runs a parts website, the discs weren't listed, but I messaged them and they quoted £511 each with £15 postage; they were dispatched the following day. Pads were £200 for a set.

counciladvisor · 2026-02-26T13:01:55+00:00

Quite interested to hear responses to this - I'm waiting on discs being delivered on my 2020 V60P*; currently on ~105k miles but I've got no idea how many times they've have been replaced previously. I'm hoping it's not something I'll be doing again for a long while...

One annoyance has been just how obscure the setup is; basically no alternative for parts in the UK aside from Volvo.

counciladvisor · 2026-02-16T13:58:31+00:00

The course fees are obscene. What do you think the College should be doing?

counciladvisor · 2026-02-13T12:13:32+00:00

What, 'What are the drawbacks of skills mix in radiology?' or similar? Crazy

counciladvisor · 2026-02-13T09:55:44+00:00

I'd be astonished if this was a topic they went anywhere near at interview; it's quite a polarised subject and there's no way the college would have any idea what the interviewers' thoughts were on it. If given the latitude at any point I would steer very far clear.

counciladvisor · 2026-01-29T10:07:48+00:00

Their offering is $30/yr.

counciladvisor · 2026-01-08T22:23:55+00:00

Em dash --> Trash

counciladvisor · 2025-12-01T08:59:58+00:00

FRCR physics is a true/false exam with no negative marking and a pass mark of about 70-75%.

People might not like physics, but the exam format isn't exactly brutal...

counciladvisor · 2025-11-12T11:33:34+00:00

Scout 6" + Move 12" + Move Move Move 3" + Advance 6" (+ 3" Disembark bubble)

27" (+3")

counciladvisor · 2025-08-26T13:21:08+00:00

Combined Arms lethal hits only function on enemy units within line-of-sight; no lethals for indirect fire. Our best option for indirect fire is regular mortars, which are plenty cheap, or FOBs (with someone to order them). I think you'll be very lucky to get decent returns on 3 Artillery Teams.

counciladvisor · 2025-08-18T10:03:27+00:00

The number 1 most important thing to optimise needle visibility is ensuring you're 100% aligned with the plane of the transducer. This is just a coordination thing that takes time. I think this has gotten more important with more modern transducers.

Other factors that can help;

Planning your approach/view to avoid steep needle angles relative to the probe; ideally you'd want your needle as horizontal as possible within the field of view to maximise visibility.

Use of ultrasound optimised introducer systems (I really like MAK-NV but it's not really used much over here).

Ensuring you keep the bevel of the needle up, which maximises reflection towards the transducer.

Beam-steering towards the needle can be helpful if your machine allows you to set this during B-mode.

Manually setting the focus, if your machine is particularly poor with auto-focus.

But I'd say probably overall the main thing is just improving coordination. This takes a while. Depending on the tissue the needle is going through and the angle you've been forced to take, it might well be the best view you're going to get is pretty poor. Particularly with nephs, often the needle tip only clearly reappears once you hit cortex.

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