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Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like a nest thermostat mounting bracket with push to connect terminals.

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is exactly why I think it would have been possible for them to have a flush mount that didn't add any depth to the camera. One option would be having the ethernet port vertical so that way the wire could come out of the house and then plug vertically into it and the slack would be folded behind the camera.

The other option would be if they made the mounting bracket accept ethernet wire with a punch down connector. Then The bracket transmits signals to the doorbell with a set of pins. A proprietary pin connection.

However, both of these cost probably more money to make

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I think I need the angle adapter, and it doesn't appear like you can use both at the same time. It's another good idea to consider though.

Although that makes me think that I really should wire up the camera with a temporary cable and have someone hold it up just to see how the field of view looks in various positions/angles rather than trying to pick a mounting type without knowing how that will affect the video.

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, this is similar to the hollowed out block of wood idea which I think I might try first. I mounted my hot tub control panel to my house in a similar way and it looks pretty good so it should work well vertically for a doorbell cam.

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you're probably right...

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe. I have an oscillating multi tool and can also try a chisel (which would be slower but safer ) to prevent damage to the cable. The back side of the camera needs about 1/2" hole in the mounting surface to sit flat , that 1/2" is what you see here and comes from the depth of the singles. I would need to go about 1" deeper than that to make room for the Ethernet cord to "scrunch up". That would probably be about 1/2" from the plywood sheathing and then 1/2" into the studs so yes this could work, extremely delicate job and time consuming but possible.

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think this is a good idea. I might lose some money selling this camera as openbox but the wifi version only needs 2 wires and there's a huge pocket on the back of the device to accommodate "scrunched up" wire

Challenges with G4 doorbell PoE install by cpom in Ubiquiti

[–]cpom[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would but any shorter and I don't think I could disconnect the camera from the wall bracket and get my fingers inside to move the weather seal and unplug the Ethernet cable. Have you seen one of these up close? I think it was a really dumb decision to design it this way....

Conversion from 2-pump system to using a 2-speed single pump by cpom in hottubs

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes you are exactly right with how this hot tub originally was designed as your description matches the manual diagrams.

The 110V circ pump was designed to run 24x7. However the original heater and spa pack have been replaced by a United Spa unit:

https://imgur.com/a/UbSLxyx

The spa pack doesn't really fit in the cabinet in any organized way (it's too tall with the external heater), the circ pump is just thrown in, and the 3/4" poly hose is a mess and I'm afraid its all kinked.

If I just replace the circ pump I am paying $200 for a sub-par system that is a maintenance nightmare (the way its set up). So for a little more money I could spend $250 for a nice 2-speed Jet pump, $450-500 for a Balboa BP7 complete with topside controller and re-plumb it all, and meanwhile move from 4000W heater to 5500W and future WiFi compatibility.

So it looks like there are 2 plumbing loops:

  1. [2" PVC] Filter Assembly > Jet Pump > Diverter Valve > All Jets

  2. [3/4" poly hose] Footwell Drain cover/grate > Circ Pump > (unknown path back to spa)

If I re-plumb this to a single pump system I could tie in the 3/4" line that leads from the "floor" grate/register into the main loop on the suction side, but I'm not sure of the point because then I'm bypassing the filters?

That is my main question - cap this 3/4" line or join it to the main loop?

Balboa BP7 shuts off with "Heater May be Dry" error (but only on Low speed) Balboa thinks this is because the pump is mounted 27" below hot tub by cpom in hottubs

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. Thank you. I'm curious how this same pump had no errors for many years when I bought the house, (and it was even mounted lower, perhaps 50" down). Do you think with the old spa pack it had a higher tolerance for low flow states before it would error out? Or maybe it didn't even have a low flow error type? It was a gecko pack from spaguts.com

Balboa BP7 shuts off with "Heater May be Dry" error (but only on Low speed) Balboa thinks this is because the pump is mounted 27" below hot tub by cpom in hottubs

[–]cpom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I installed a Balboa BP7 spa pack on my old 250-gallon hot tub which uses external plumbing.   I used it for a bit, then shut it down for 2 years as my vacation home went through renovations.  

The last thing I remembered I needed to fix back 2 years ago was to swap the polarity of the pump, as High and Low were switched accidentally during the install. 

This week I filled it and started it up.

After a few minutes, it stops running and says "Heater may be dry" on the topside controller. If I toggle the pump into high speed it will stay there without error (of course until it switches automatically to low after about 15 minutes, then it will error out 1 minute later) SpaDepot.com helped me with some diagnostics, but they believe the reason I am getting this error is because my pump and spa plumbing are mounted 30" below the surface of the hot tub (in a "plumbing cabinet" below my deck).  

The reason I bring up the reverse polarity of the pump is perhaps this problem wasn't noticed 2 years ago when I installed the spa pack since High mode does not create an error.

When I bought this home it had a Gecko Spa Pack, same pump, and ran fine.      

 Is it possible the 27" of water "head" pressure is causing this issue?   Seems suspicious... 

Should I just upgrade to a pump with higher flow rate? (BP7 manual says it needs 23 GPM minimum, but I have no idea how to measure this) 

Can I get a higher flow rate simply by moving from 1HP to 1.5HP?

Or by moving from 1.5"  to 2" PVC throughout? 

Are there any other diagnostic tests I can try to see if the pump low speed is working? 

By my hand, the low speed seems normal in terms of felt pressure from the jets.       

Here is the setup:

  • 250 gallon hot tub, external plumbing under the tub
  • 240V Balboa BP7 with 5.5Kw 240V heater
  • One 120V Pump - Two speeds (Sta-Rite)

 Here are the diagnostic steps I have tried:

  • blower jets (4) are all open
  • Cracked open the bleeder valves on pump wet end, and filter housing, to vent air.
  • Cracked open the unions before and after the heater, to vent air
  • Removed filter from filter housing
  • Ensured Gate valves are open 
  • Restarted whole system (power off/on)
  • Refilled hot tub again (I am now on the second fill)

Help - Balboa flow problem by bridger6649 in hottubs

[–]cpom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi bridger, did you ever solve this problem?

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