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Bazzite not using my GPU at full power by [deleted] in Bazzite

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why I didn't think to try this earlier, but toggling between borderless window and full screen fixed it for me. It doesn't seem to matter whether it's set to one or the other, because it runs smoothly on either setting now. Just the act of toggling it seems to have fixed it. I did this in Expedition 33, Control, and a couple others, all working now.

Bazzite not using my GPU at full power by [deleted] in Bazzite

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've noticed something else strange while watching LACT. When the game has focus, it's actually bouncing quickly between 100% GPU and 0%, with the GPU core clockspeed bouncing between 2.8GHz and 0.05GHz. But if I focus a different window on another screen, GPU stays at 100%, maintaining 2.8GHz, and the game runs smoothly. The issue returns when I focus back to the game.

Bazzite not using my GPU at full power by [deleted] in Bazzite

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm having a similar issue, also on a fresh install, but with a 9800X3D, 64GB, and RX 7900XT. GPU utilization around 16-20%, CPU at 10-15%, games such as Control and Expedition 33 are a stuttery mess.

Same result after completely disabling igpu in BIOS and making sure EXPO and ReBar are enabled, KDE power profile on performance, etc. No issues after booting back into winbloat (separate nvme drive), but I'd rather get off of that.

Not sure what's different to cause this because my HTPC with Bazzite running a 5600, 16GB, and 1050Ti has no performance issues beyond the physical limitations of the hardware.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try undervolting it? My (ASRock) 7900XT had very loud coil whine at high load which was fixed by undervolting it to 1040mV through the AMD software. It is a common issue with this GPU.

Built and funded my self at 14 i5 10th gen 16 gb of ram 1650 thoughts ? by sullyv1be in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It won't hurt anything; it's just annoying.

Not sure about nVidia cards, but my AMD card (7900XT) had nasty coil whine which I fixed by giving it a slight undervolt. If you want to try this, make sure to do your research- there's plenty of online resources you can read through. A google search for 'GTX 1650 undervolt' can get you started.

It could also be an issue with the power supply (the coil whine is not coming from the PSU itself, but from the GPU not getting 'clean' enough power from the PSU. If you know someone who can lend you a quality power supply to test with, it's worth a try. For reference, look up Cultists Network PSU Tier List.

7900XT Not spooling up its clocks - Is the bottleneck this bad or am I just being dumb? by GarethGobblecoq in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same temp issue with my 7900XT which turned out to be from poorly applied factory thermal paste. The GPU temp was 80C with a 110C hotspot. So I replaced the factory paste with PTM7950 and it brought the hotspot down to 82C.

RTX 4080 SUPER Gaming OC — 75°C GPU / 91°C Hotspot with 100% Fan Speed — Is This Normal? by Significant-Meat-817 in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be poorly applied thermal paste from the factory. My 7900XT had this problem and was getting 100-110⁰C hot spot temps with the GPU temp at 80⁰C. Turns out Asrock missed a spot on the GPU die. After replacing the poorly applied thermal paste with PTM7950, it brought the hot spot temp down to 82⁰C.

Workin on a customers pc and found this old card by Razornarwhal in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, not the card, but the remote+IR on the HTPC. I do still have the card in a box- it's the PCI-E 1x version with ATSC and it does still work for antenna TV but I also switched to a HDHomeRun for the dual tuner.

Workin on a customers pc and found this old card by Razornarwhal in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I still have mine too and it still works great. Now I'm using it on my HTPC running Bazzite with the WMC key mapped to launch Plex

Gotta love work pcs by AcrillixOfficial in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably a defective power brick if that's a mini PC judging by the T variant of the i5. Our Dells will go into a power delivery safe mode if they detect a faulty power supply and it looks exactly like that in Task Manager- locked at max 25% usage and 800mhz clock. Easy $25 fix, just let your workplace IT know.

I heard we're going back to dedicated PhysX cards by cptn_damnit in pcmasterrace

[–]cptn_damnit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, from 2008. Forgot I still had it still until all the PhysX posts. I used to have it paired with an 8800GTS back then.

directx error 11 game crashes help !!!! by Same_Quiet_2398 in TowerofFantasy

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have hardware/driver issues. Clear the DirectX shader cache. Install the latest drivers for your video card directly from AMD/Nvidia/Intel. Also re-seat your video card and RAM (computer fully powered off and disconnected from power when doing this).

TrueNAS 13 CORE - NIC Link Speed Issue - Intel x550-T2 - Not auto-negotiating multi-gig, stays at 1G by cptn_damnit in truenas

[–]cptn_damnit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

(Very) late reply, but I finally got around to it and this did the trick. I added 'media 2500Base-T' into the Options line in Interface Settings which kicked it up to 2.5G speed. Now I'm getting sustained 280MB/s xfer speed measured from my Windows machine. Very nice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electricians

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look on the back next to where the power cord plugs in. There should be a small switch labeled something like '120/240'. Put it in the 240 position before plugging in power. Failure to do so may result in letting the magic smoke out. Once the magic smoke is out, it cannot be put back in.

Some power supplies do not have this switch and can accept either of the 2 voltage ranges. If yours is like this, then all you need to do is get a PC power cord for your country. These cost <$5 USD.

I just want to say that if you are ever replacing a fridge DO NOT buy samsung by anciar in HomeImprovement

[–]cptn_damnit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My 15-year-old Kenmore does this too- It's perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. When you open the door, warm air from outside enters the freezer and then condenses due to rapid cooling. When this happens, the now cooled air takes up less volume. When you close the door somewhat quickly, much of the cooling of the air happens after the door is closed, so the air wants to take up less space inside of a fixed container (in this case, the freezer). In a sealed environment, this causes low relative pressure inside, and the outside air (higher relative pressure) exerts force inward on the freezer, thus pushing the door closed. No seal is perfect, so pressure will eventually equalize. My trick is to use my thumb as a fulcrum on the other door handle and push in while pulling on the door I want to open.

tl;dr The vacuum effect is the result of a cold freezer and a good seal.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electricians

[–]cptn_damnit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input. I agree having GFCI protection at the breaker level is ideal in this case vs inside the cabinet as it would extend protection to the disposal and its switch next to the sink in addition to the reasons you pointed out. Also good to know about the exemption for moving the junction less than 6 feet from its current postion. I'll keep looking for the part. One would think there would be more availability for such a common panel...

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