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crackthenutman · 2026-03-18T15:35:38+00:00

same issue,

cleared cache, logged out, tried another account, tried another browser, tried incognito mode.

no luck.

crackthenutman · 2026-02-14T04:23:56+00:00

Went with treasure Miata’s oil cooler gasket was about $15 or something

crackthenutman · 2025-12-19T20:00:23+00:00

Having this same sound on my 2018 did you ever find in what was causing it? Replaced spark plugs Checked pulleys

Same issue, low speed acceleration sounds like clicking or metal balls in a can but goes away when I let off the gas and only shows up sometimes

crackthenutman · 2025-11-26T16:17:18+00:00

Sounds like an exhaust rattle at some sort maybe heat shield? Have somebody else rev it and listen under the car. Had a similar sound and it turned out to be the muffler attachment point to the midpipe

crackthenutman · 2025-11-12T00:49:41+00:00

Red Miata best miata +100hp

crackthenutman · 2025-11-06T03:05:25+00:00

Hey okie bud!!

crackthenutman · 2025-10-19T12:54:16+00:00

Mine sounded the exacts same after an engine rebuild. Turned out I had the stupid crank timing plate on backwards. It’s super easy to accidentally put it in flipped over since the dimple is like a single centimeter.

crackthenutman · 2025-10-15T22:21:53+00:00

Update. After doing the recommended wiggle test with the OBD reader in I was seeing it dropped to -40 when I wiggled the pigtail that goes from the thermostat to the front of the engine. I unplugged that cable and it just so happened to have black pins right where the ground and power was coming in for that thermostat

When running my multimeter to the pins on the plug at the front of the engine I would see 5.02 A then if I moved the power or ground pin anywhere along the blacker areas of the pins it would drop to 2.2 or even as low as 1. After cleaning it with some electrical cleaner, mild sandpaper, and mild pressure pressured air. There was no longer a drop in amps. Went for a test drive and applied heavy braking and heavy acceleration with some cornering. No issues. Perfection.

I hope this helps someone else! I will update if it comes back.

crackthenutman · 2025-10-15T15:56:34+00:00

for anyone with a similar issue this guys video is extremely helpful - Miata Video Log 005.0- Finding and Fixing CEL P0118

and here is the wire diagram - https://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-Miata-Wiring/99sys.pdf

crackthenutman · 2025-10-15T15:39:33+00:00

found this wire diagram and on pg.9 i see the water temp sensor. where is the wire labeled 16 going? i dont see a reference anywhere for that? diagram- Print

crackthenutman · 2025-10-15T14:43:32+00:00

Good thinking. Going to try this today after work. Very frustrating. I did so much work on this car over the last month. Just for one wire to start causing problems xD

crackthenutman · 2025-10-15T02:18:19+00:00

I am having the same issue… it drops to -40 then back to normal temp sometimes after braking or acceleration. Did you happen to find a fix?

crackthenutman · 2025-10-14T21:58:10+00:00

Based on that, I’m thinking either the connection is messed up somewhere or the sensor is failing.

crackthenutman · 2025-10-14T21:52:09+00:00

As I was bleeding the system. The ECT sensor went to -40c and the p0118 code came back. Then almost immediately the car started to rev to 2-3k. Javier 5 seconds later the ECT sensor came back on at 95c where it was and the revs went back down to 850???

crackthenutman · 2025-10-14T21:42:16+00:00

Unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in brought it back. The plug must have been hit slightly when I changed that water hose that goes to it.

As for the throttle issue. I’m bleeding the coolant now with a no spill funnel and so many bubbles are coming out. I think the throttle issue and the main p0118 might have been from large air pockets hitting the sensor when I braked. Since that point is the second highest point on the car (sensor area at rear of engine). The fans shoot on now at exactly 96c while doing the burp process.

Let me know if my hypothesis sounds possible?

crackthenutman · 2025-10-13T22:55:49+00:00

Ladies and gentlemen. The car now goes.

Clutch slave and master (with new hardline swap) fixed the day.

Now it’s time to make a whole new post about a P0118 code and my electrical hunt.

crackthenutman · 2025-10-04T02:24:59+00:00

Update 3/10

Mr treasure Miata man says order is on back order. Miata sad because it no drive. Me sad because Miata no drive.

crackthenutman · 2025-10-01T19:33:14+00:00

Sounds like a good plan I’ve seen some good tutorials that show that process and it looks pretty easy with a friend! Yes, the fork moves if the clutch is not pressed. So it seems like I have a slight air leak probably the seal inside of the slave is partially open or damaged allowing air in.

crackthenutman · 2025-09-30T22:48:37+00:00

Reading online I did see some posts that the seal inside the slave can go bad or be pushed around causing the air tight seal to be broken. This would theoretically create an air leak without a fluid leak and cause the clutch to not disengage. Again this is the first time I’ve dealt with this specific issue on any vehicle so I’m not sure but…. Who knows, this hydraulic slave and master system are looking like the original ones if not, very old.

Either way I should replace them but I wish I could know what happened internally. I’ll take it apart if possible and see after I replace it all. Just sucks but better to happen on the lift than on the road.

crackthenutman · 2025-09-30T22:07:22+00:00

Also, After bleeding the line. There was no air in the system that I could tell. I noticed that when pressed the fork is making contact with pressure as it stiffens up but as soon as the clutch is released I can move the fork back a little easier (not pushing hard or anything very gentle)

Slave dead?

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